Just back, 2 weeks in England
 

In early March family, friends and I traveled to England to take in some of the sights of London and a bit of the countryside. Two of my daughters and their husbands, a sister-in-law plus two friends and me for a total of 8.<BR><BR>We were, we thought on a direct flight from Minneapolis to London; however, a medical emergency diverted us to Montreal, Canada, for an unscheduled stop. Two ill passengers were treated by paramedics and then, along with their traveling companions, 'deplaned.'<BR>Ground crews then unloaded the baggage of all 270 passengers to find luggage for the four who left. There was then a minor mechanical problem which had to be corrected.<BR><BR>After 3 1/2 hours on the ground we were once again airborne.<BR><BR>Upon arrival in England, we took the train into the city, then proceeded to walk the short distance to our hotel. Jet lagged and confused about which exit we'd used, we wandered the streets in the pouring rain until we got our bearings and found our lodging. <BR><BR>With a full week in London, I was sure we'd be able to see and do all that we had hoped for. Did we accomplish that lofty goal? Yes and no. We made adjustments as we went along, cut some things out and added others.

Part 2<BR><BR>We quickly learned the ins and outs of the subway system and found it, for the most part, to be a quick and efficient way to get around. Our weekly passes were paid for in about three days. We also learned to avoid the major stations (Victoria) between 8:30 and 9:30 a.m. and 5:30 and 6:30 p.m., rush hours, when the crush of humanity is unbelievable.<BR><BR>The city recently imposed a 'congestion charge' for vehicles entering the central city during daytime hours in order to discourage people from driving. I think the charge is �6 (~$10) a day, plus someone told us it costs �2 (~$3.30) an hour to park.<BR><BR>We took a walking tour which included Buckingham Palace, Changing of the Guard, Parliament and Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, St. James Palace (where Prince Charles lives.) <BR><BR>We spent an afternoon doing brass rubbings in the crypt of St. Martin's-in-the-Field. We attended the Portobello and Covent Garden markets. A couple of us toured Windsor Palace while the rest spent the day at the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew.<BR><BR>We went to the theater a couple of times. Some of us saw, again, Phantom while some others went to Lion King. We also saw Joseph (don't waste your time.)<BR><BR>The TKTS booth at Leicester Square was a big money saver.<BR><BR>There was a special ceremony honoring Commonwealth Remembrance Day at Westminster Abbey with Queen Elizabeth so we gathered across the street with hundreds of other gawkers to catch a glimpse of the Royal Family. We were rewarded as we watched the Queen, Princes Philip and Charles enter the Abbey. Granted, it was from a distance, but we were thrilled.

Part 3<BR><BR>We tubed to the Tower of London, where we ogled the Crown Jewels, followed by a Beefeater tour. Later that same night we returned to the Tower to witness the 700 year old traditional Ceremony of the Keys, the official nighttime 'locking' of the tower.<BR><BR>Four of us rode the London Eye, which gives spectacular view of the city. The revolution is so slow and smooth, you hardly know you're moving.<BR><BR>One evening we attended Evensong at Westminster Abbey. It never ceases to amaze me how similar religious services are. Had I only been half awake, I might not have known I was in an Anglican church.<BR><BR>Another day we took a tour to Greenwich, which included a boat ride on the Thames. At the Royal Observatory we watched for that large orange Time Ball to drop at 1300. We stood, in the cold wind, and waited and waited for that silly ball to drop and it never did. We decided, as hicks from the sticks, we had truly made time stand still!<BR><BR>Also at Greenwich we saw the Cutty Sark, a beautiful sailing ship which used to bring tea from China.

Part 4<BR><BR>We returned to Gatwick to pick up our two rental cars and waiting there was a high school classmate of my daughter. She lives in the area and led us on a driving tour, pointing out interesting sights along the way: Ringo Starr's home, a haunted house, a 'mini' Stone Henge erected by a woman for here own private use. It seems as if many in this area really believe in ghosts and witches.<BR><BR>We then headed west, attempting to keep the two vehicles within sight of each other, no small task. It seemed as if driving on the left was not insurmountable, but traffic patterns and numerous roundabouts proved quite stressful for all. Our drivers, incidentally, have driven in other European countries without problems. One of our drivers, a son-in-law, called them 'spaghetti' roads.<BR><BR>One night we stated at a lovely inn in the country somewhere in the Salisbury-Bath area and asked how far it was to Bath. The proprieter told us by driving cross-country, it was only 12 miles and 45 minutes away. We sort of ho-hoed at the thought of taking 45 minutes to drive 12 miles. <BR><BR>So the next morning we started off, cross-country, taking the 'B' roads, one lane blacktops with tall hedge rows lining each side. Roads so narrow that if you meet a vehicle, one has to back up until finding a gradual widening in order for the other car to pass. How long did it take us?--Probably an hour and a half.

Hi,<BR> Thanks for your report. Tell us more. What hotel?

Part 5<BR><BR>We spent time in Bath, where we watched the Marathon runners and then toured the Abbey, 500 years old and the last great medieval church in England. We loved the angels climbing to heaven!<BR><BR>We enjoyed Cheddar Gorge, the largest gorge with the highest inland limestone cliffs in England. It's known as the origination of cheddar cheese which they've been making since 1170. The Cheddar Man, a 7000 year old skeleton, was found in a nearby cave some years ago.<BR><BR>Stone circles are many, with the most famous Stone Henge, which we walked around on a cold, windy, but sunny day.<BR><BR>We also visisted the sites of two other stone circles, the first Stanton Drew. Somewhat off the beaten path, we were there alone, wandering among them in a sheep pasture. Folklore says these stones represent a wedding party and their musicians. Lured by the Devil to celebrate on the Sabbath, they became petrified as they partied.

Part 6<BR><BR>The 3rd circle was at Avebury, largest in the world, with a diameter of 1400 feet. Stones here weigh 40 tons or more and many have been destroyed and used for building the present village. A fire would be built beneath them, then cold water poured over them, which would shatter them in pieces. In the 14th century a man was killed when a stone fell on him. No effort was made to recover the body. This stone is now known as the Barber Stone because they found a scissors, lancet and some silver coins next to it.<BR><BR>Also notable is a stone called the Devil's Chair, with a carved niche. I think one of my daughter's sat in that niche, but she didn't run around it 100 times counter-clockwise to summon the Devil.<BR><BR>Stone Henge, of course, is roped off but both Stanton Drew and Avebury are in open fields so all are free to wander. We saw several groups of school children at Avebury and I thought of what a great learning experience this must be.<BR><BR>Spring had definitely arrived in England, with grass a brilliant green and spring flowers in full bloom. Daffodils, hyacinth, crocus, primroses and pansies. The little gardes all over were most impressive.<BR><BR>The week we were in London, March 7 through 13, was cold, rainy and windy. Our four days in the country were all sunny and by the last day, March 17, it was shirt sleeve weather.<BR><BR>Ben Haines and all Fodorites, thanks for all your suggestions. Keep on traveling!<BR><BR>Geri

A few last thoughts<BR><BR>We took three London Walks tours and are convinced they're the best bargain in London. The first, The London Walk, with Tom, was beyond all expectations.<BR><BR> We also did the Jack the Ripper with the famous Donald, on a Sunday night. Big disappointment--probably 200 people and it seemed as if we mostly stood in parking lots surrounded by modern apartment buildings and heard the story. I had done a Ripper tour some years ago and thought it was much better. Just my personal opinion.<BR><BR>The third was Historic Greenwich with Hillary. Again, an excellent tour.<BR><BR>Any questions, I'll try to answer.

What a great trip report! Thank you for taking the time to do it.

Geribrum,<BR><BR>Where did you stay? Where was the hotel located? Did you like it? Thanks.

I've been wondering how your big group fared - sounds like you worked things out really well.<BR><BR>Great report.

To Ira and gluvscats: In London we had three rooms (2 triples and a twin) at the Elizabeth Hotel on Eccleston Square. I realize this hotel has been panned by many Fodorites, but is on Rick Steves list of economical places. <BR><BR>Was it nice? Adequate would be more appropriate. Basically all we wanted was a convenient location and a place to sleep and shower. Rooms are very small but we had a balcony overlooking the square. We thought the location was ideal. Would I stay there again? Yes! &pound;75 for a twin and &pound;85 for the triple and included full breakfast. Weren't looking for any amenities. Location and price were most important.

Geribrum<BR>Does the Elizabeth have ensuite bathrooms or do you share baths with others in the hotel? Also, is breakfast included in the price of the room? Thanks!

Sorry about the breakfast question--I didn't read your last post carefully. Please give me information about the bathrooms at the Elizabeth and what is the nearest tube stop? Thanks again!

To Lee4<BR>These were our requirments for a London hotel: Location, price, ensuite, lift and breakfast. The Elizabeth met all these. We had at first considered B&amp;B's or an apartment. However it was difficult to find either with a lift and as we had one member of our party who has difficulty with stairs, a lift was a must. So, too, were ensuite facilities. The bathrooms at this hotel were very good, with a huge, deep tub if one chose to take a good soak.

To Lee4: Sorry, forgot part of your question was nearest tube: Victoria Station is just a couple blocks, as 5 minute walk perhaps.