Just Another Macarons, Hot Chocolate, Tucked into Bed by 11 Paris Report
Feb 12th, 2014, 11:36 AM
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Just Another Macarons, Hot Chocolate, Tucked into Bed by 11 Paris Report
WARNING: This trip report will be dry (not as in witty, but as in the text book you repeatedly drooled over in college), possibly long-winded, and totally ignore most restaurants in Paris. Except the ones with macarons and hot chocolate. And I was in bed by 11pm most nights. (And I stole the report title from a comment made in a recent and controversial trip report thread, many thanks to the poster for the comment.)
The background:
A work project was put on hold and I jumped on the chance to escape for a week. I played with the idea of multiple destinations and settled on Paris. Airfares & hotels weren't insanely priced and it seemed like a good idea. Although when is Paris not a good idea?
Logistics:
Flights/Etc- skip this part if you don't care about the getting to France details
I travel carry on. I have the worst luck ever with checked baggage (lost, delayed, strikes, rain, punctures, rips, you name it), so if I'd like to have undamaged luggage with me when I arrive, carry on is best.
And then, a winter storm hit Dallas. I was booked to fly through Dallas, so I started obsessively checking the forecast, the number of open runways (2), etc. And then, a second travel notice popped up. "Due to the situation in France". Wait. What? What situation? After searching online, no situation was apparent. So, I called AA. Strikes. So, along with my carry on luck, it's clear I have France strike luck too. The previous 2 times I was in Paris there were strikes.
The night before departure, I got a robo text that my flight to DFW was cancelled. (Winter storm, ice fog, etc.) I called AA -- along with everyone else whose flight was cancelled in a huge group of cancellations. This time AA could re-book my flight (previously, they couldn't change my departure city, once my flight was cancelled they would change the departure city to LAX - which gave a lot more options). So once again, I was a go, only this time through ORD.
And then... my flight from ORD to CDG was delayed for mechanical. Something about a starter for the engines. The delay was pushed out in 1/2 hour increments. We boarded after 3 hours. And then there was an issue with the toilets. Then they tried to start the engines and they wouldn't start. After heating up the engines (they had been sitting in the snow) with an external heater (that billowed black smoke) we were ready to go. Except then we had to wait for a de-icer. It all turned into a 5 hour delay into CDG. The up side? I had more room in coach seats and did get a bit of sleep on the flight over.
Apartment - I dither when trying to decide where to stay. I looked at a few hotels around $150/night. I called Vacation in Paris and they were really nice, but I was look for something in 3 weeks, didn't want a sofa bed, no higher than 3rd floor, not too far out, etc and the options were limited. I ended up on Airbnb and found a cute little 1 bedroom in the 5th a couple of blocks uphill from the Maubert-Mutualite metro. Up two rickety flights of stairs, but a great little place. The uphill bit was a little rough at the end of a long walking day, but it was nice and downhill every morning and about a 10 minute walk to Notre Dame. I didn't use my cell phone in Paris, but did have an international plan (and Skype) on my iPad, so I was able to e-mail my apartment host and let her know my new arrival time.
Transportation - I was arriving on a Monday and departing on a Sunday and planning to go to Versailles, so I got the Navigo Découverte for zones 1-5. Easy as pie to pick up at the airport. I followed the signage through the airport to the RER, took the escalator down and bought the Navigo from the ticket counter. I had printed up a picture of myself on the home computer and cut it down, so I was ready. The girl at the counter handed me the whole pack, so I put it together myself, but other than having the picture the specified size (3cm tall x 2.5 cm wide) and a pen to sign your name, nothing more is required. The pass was great. If I wanted to pop onto the metro for two stops (and after the first couple of days, yes I did indeed!), it was no problem.
Museum Pass - I stopped at the Tourist Information in terminal 2 on the way to the RER (outside of security) and asked about the strikes as I wasn't sure if this would impact Museums that were open. They didn't know, so made some calls and said it was just civil servants, such as teachers and for now, the museums would be ok, but with a little shrug, who could tell what might happen later in the week. So, I might want to wait to buy the pass until I was actually at the first museum. I ended up buying the 4 day pass at the Cluny (no lines, no waiting) and was very happy I had it. Not only was it a line cutting pass, but an all access pass to the museum bathroom's of Paris!
The background:
A work project was put on hold and I jumped on the chance to escape for a week. I played with the idea of multiple destinations and settled on Paris. Airfares & hotels weren't insanely priced and it seemed like a good idea. Although when is Paris not a good idea?
Logistics:
Flights/Etc- skip this part if you don't care about the getting to France details
I travel carry on. I have the worst luck ever with checked baggage (lost, delayed, strikes, rain, punctures, rips, you name it), so if I'd like to have undamaged luggage with me when I arrive, carry on is best.
And then, a winter storm hit Dallas. I was booked to fly through Dallas, so I started obsessively checking the forecast, the number of open runways (2), etc. And then, a second travel notice popped up. "Due to the situation in France". Wait. What? What situation? After searching online, no situation was apparent. So, I called AA. Strikes. So, along with my carry on luck, it's clear I have France strike luck too. The previous 2 times I was in Paris there were strikes.
The night before departure, I got a robo text that my flight to DFW was cancelled. (Winter storm, ice fog, etc.) I called AA -- along with everyone else whose flight was cancelled in a huge group of cancellations. This time AA could re-book my flight (previously, they couldn't change my departure city, once my flight was cancelled they would change the departure city to LAX - which gave a lot more options). So once again, I was a go, only this time through ORD.
And then... my flight from ORD to CDG was delayed for mechanical. Something about a starter for the engines. The delay was pushed out in 1/2 hour increments. We boarded after 3 hours. And then there was an issue with the toilets. Then they tried to start the engines and they wouldn't start. After heating up the engines (they had been sitting in the snow) with an external heater (that billowed black smoke) we were ready to go. Except then we had to wait for a de-icer. It all turned into a 5 hour delay into CDG. The up side? I had more room in coach seats and did get a bit of sleep on the flight over.
Apartment - I dither when trying to decide where to stay. I looked at a few hotels around $150/night. I called Vacation in Paris and they were really nice, but I was look for something in 3 weeks, didn't want a sofa bed, no higher than 3rd floor, not too far out, etc and the options were limited. I ended up on Airbnb and found a cute little 1 bedroom in the 5th a couple of blocks uphill from the Maubert-Mutualite metro. Up two rickety flights of stairs, but a great little place. The uphill bit was a little rough at the end of a long walking day, but it was nice and downhill every morning and about a 10 minute walk to Notre Dame. I didn't use my cell phone in Paris, but did have an international plan (and Skype) on my iPad, so I was able to e-mail my apartment host and let her know my new arrival time.
Transportation - I was arriving on a Monday and departing on a Sunday and planning to go to Versailles, so I got the Navigo Découverte for zones 1-5. Easy as pie to pick up at the airport. I followed the signage through the airport to the RER, took the escalator down and bought the Navigo from the ticket counter. I had printed up a picture of myself on the home computer and cut it down, so I was ready. The girl at the counter handed me the whole pack, so I put it together myself, but other than having the picture the specified size (3cm tall x 2.5 cm wide) and a pen to sign your name, nothing more is required. The pass was great. If I wanted to pop onto the metro for two stops (and after the first couple of days, yes I did indeed!), it was no problem.
Museum Pass - I stopped at the Tourist Information in terminal 2 on the way to the RER (outside of security) and asked about the strikes as I wasn't sure if this would impact Museums that were open. They didn't know, so made some calls and said it was just civil servants, such as teachers and for now, the museums would be ok, but with a little shrug, who could tell what might happen later in the week. So, I might want to wait to buy the pass until I was actually at the first museum. I ended up buying the 4 day pass at the Cluny (no lines, no waiting) and was very happy I had it. Not only was it a line cutting pass, but an all access pass to the museum bathroom's of Paris!
Feb 12th, 2014, 12:06 PM
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no worries wayfinder - I'm of a certain age, so my dancing on table tops days are behind me. Unless someone wants to help me up and down. Which certainly didn't happen in Paris!
TYPAY - there was wine! Red wine. I got in the habit of just order a glass of the house red wine, so I couldn't tell you exactly what I drank!
TYPAY - there was wine! Red wine. I got in the habit of just order a glass of the house red wine, so I couldn't tell you exactly what I drank!
Feb 12th, 2014, 12:21 PM
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A little more logistics...
Map
I got the Eyewitness Guide to Paris before I left and tagged the map with little PostIts with the names and addresses of places I was interested in... I didn't tag every Laduree, Pierre Herme, or etc., just the ones that were close to places I thought I'd go. Then I took a picture of the map, so when I was someplace and looking to rest my feet, I could pull out my camera, zoom in on the section I was in and see if there was something close by.
Packing
I don't think I mentioned already that this was early December... temps were cool, so to avoid the bulk, I packed a stuffable down coat. It worked out great. Stuffable enough to crush into my purse when I didn't need it, warm enough in general, but I added a sweater and a scarf for evenings.
Map
I got the Eyewitness Guide to Paris before I left and tagged the map with little PostIts with the names and addresses of places I was interested in... I didn't tag every Laduree, Pierre Herme, or etc., just the ones that were close to places I thought I'd go. Then I took a picture of the map, so when I was someplace and looking to rest my feet, I could pull out my camera, zoom in on the section I was in and see if there was something close by.
Packing
I don't think I mentioned already that this was early December... temps were cool, so to avoid the bulk, I packed a stuffable down coat. It worked out great. Stuffable enough to crush into my purse when I didn't need it, warm enough in general, but I added a sweater and a scarf for evenings.
Feb 12th, 2014, 12:37 PM
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I'm here too - always up for a Paris report.
Wow! What an ordeal to get there. Glad it worked out.
Also, being of a certain age too, I'm happy to see a trip report that doesn't involve table-top dancing.
Wow! What an ordeal to get there. Glad it worked out.
Also, being of a certain age too, I'm happy to see a trip report that doesn't involve table-top dancing.
Feb 12th, 2014, 02:21 PM
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Ahhhh Paris...
My first night was very low key. Well. Really, my whole trip was. After the apartment introduction (and lucky me! This apartment owner stocked the place with basics, not only toilet paper, but also fruit, wine, cheese and a baguette. I was happy to not have to run right out and buy toilet paper!), I wandered out onto the streets. I meandered down to Notre Dame and checked out the giant Christmas tree and took a wander inside Notre Dame. There's something special about realizing that I'm really in Paris and being able to just walk down to Notre Dame is a "moment" for me.
As the 850 year anniversary was winding down, the seating and temporary buildings in the forecourt were being dismantled and were surrounded with construction fencing.
After a few pictures of sunset over the Seine, I'm heading back to the apartment, and run across Shakespeare & Co. It's instant bookstore infatuation. I love the nooks and crannies, the little shelfs crammed in wherever. The beds. Beds?! I didn't realize they were actually beds until I read about them later. I thought they were cozy reading spots. I bought a book for my kids and headed back out. I didn't realize until too late that I should have asked for a Shakespeare & Co stamp in the new book, but no problem, it's already there.
Heading in the direction of the apartment again, and I stopped at one of the nearest restaurants for dinner. I ordered a glass of the house red wine and confused my poor waiter by only ordering the foie gras. And that's it for the night.... Back to the apartment and bed.
My first night was very low key. Well. Really, my whole trip was. After the apartment introduction (and lucky me! This apartment owner stocked the place with basics, not only toilet paper, but also fruit, wine, cheese and a baguette. I was happy to not have to run right out and buy toilet paper!), I wandered out onto the streets. I meandered down to Notre Dame and checked out the giant Christmas tree and took a wander inside Notre Dame. There's something special about realizing that I'm really in Paris and being able to just walk down to Notre Dame is a "moment" for me.
As the 850 year anniversary was winding down, the seating and temporary buildings in the forecourt were being dismantled and were surrounded with construction fencing.
After a few pictures of sunset over the Seine, I'm heading back to the apartment, and run across Shakespeare & Co. It's instant bookstore infatuation. I love the nooks and crannies, the little shelfs crammed in wherever. The beds. Beds?! I didn't realize they were actually beds until I read about them later. I thought they were cozy reading spots. I bought a book for my kids and headed back out. I didn't realize until too late that I should have asked for a Shakespeare & Co stamp in the new book, but no problem, it's already there.
Heading in the direction of the apartment again, and I stopped at one of the nearest restaurants for dinner. I ordered a glass of the house red wine and confused my poor waiter by only ordering the foie gras. And that's it for the night.... Back to the apartment and bed.
Feb 12th, 2014, 05:56 PM
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Shakespeare & Co, I recently read a book of Paris stories and one was about a young writer in Paris living there. They can sleep there if they are writers. My niece is and she loved this place. Your apartment sounds good.
Feb 13th, 2014, 11:26 PM
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>>an all access pass to the museum bathroom's of Paris! <<
To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time anyone's explicitly referred to what must be (now that I've reached "that age") a major advantage of museum passes that never occurred to me before.
To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time anyone's explicitly referred to what must be (now that I've reached "that age") a major advantage of museum passes that never occurred to me before.
