Just a few observations about recent trip to Italy
 

I am not going to post a full-blown trip report since I don’t think most people really read them for information. I will post some observations about some subjects; people can e-mail for additional if they want.<BR><BR>Smoking<BR>Being a rabid anti-smoker I was pleasantly surprised to find that, contrary to postings here and elseplace, smoking in Italy really didn’t bother me at all. Many eating establishments are now non-smoking, including some tavernas, coffee bars, and full-service restaurants. Not once was I bothered by cigarette smoke, in fact, only time I really noticed smoke was on the Eurostar from Rome to Venice when the door between the non-smoking car and the smoking car opened. <BR><BR>Driving<BR>Unless you are a very confident driver, I wouldn’t recommend driving anyplace in Italy. I am a trained high-speed driver, and still couldn’t believe how people drove, especially in Rome. We did OK, but drivers in Italy have to be very assertive, and you have to know in advance where you are going, cuz other drivers give you no slack for hesitation. There are no rules for lanes usage, except that if a marked lane will hold two Fiat’s and three Vespas, it is OK to do so. Stop signs are routinely ignored, speed limits are laughed at, especially if you own a Mercedes, Puegeot, or Lancia. <BR>

Parking<BR>We had the car for three days of day-trips out of Siena, Pisa, Florence, and Assisi. Parking is difficult to say the least in Siena. We parked at the soccer Stadia, cuz our convent was just a couple of blocks away. Desk clerk in convent told us to move our car from the Stadia after second day because of the Wednesday market held near Fort Belvedere, and as it turns out he was totally wrong and we lost out parking space when we re-entered the Stadia. We found great parking in Florence at the P. Michelangelo for free. The areas is very busy (thus safe for people and cars), relatively easy to get to from the south of town, and a nice walk to the center of Florence. Mind you the walk back up is pretty strenuous. We now wish we had taken a taxi back to the parking area. Parking in Pisa, and Assisi was also pretty easy to locate although the traffic is Pisa was pretty wild, although there were some signs directing to the Miracoli. <BR><BR>Maps<BR>City maps can be very misleading in Italy, especially Siena as we found out. All of the maps we had prior to leaving, including the big Michelin book have only the center of the town of Siena, including the portion inside the town walls. As it turns out there is much more to Siena than what is on most maps, including the routes to the Autostrada (Florence) and the Tangenziale (Siena Ovest exit for Peruggia and Rome). After two days of getting lost getting in and out of Siena we finally looked at the cheap paper map we got from Avis in the glove box and found that it was the best, including a large complete map of Siena and surrounds as well as a smaller street map of the central part of the city. <BR>

Road signs<BR>There are two fundamental difficulties driving anyplace in Italy, cities or country and that is the general lack of street or road names as well as a numbering system, other than the major highways. It is very difficult navigating in a busy city when many of the streets lack any street signs. We realized early on that it is easier to navigate from signs pointing to the next town rather than looking for road numbers.<BR><BR>Restaurants<BR>First off, we could not believe how inexpensive an excellent 4 course meal could be. We never spent more that 50 EURO any place, including the P. Navonna and the Campo in Siena. At one favorite restaurant in Siena, we ate three times in four days and never spent more that 33 EURO, including wine, bottled water, salads, and a primi and secondi each. Twice in two weeks I felt that the waiter had deliberately padded the check. Other that that, we always received a cash register type receipt showing an itemization of the items we ate. Once, in Rome the menu clearly stated that the “Service” was included, however, the waitress made it a point of telling me three times that the “service was not included.” At the time I only had a 5 EURO note and asked her to bring me coins. I never saw her again. <BR><BR>Venice Card<BR>This thing must be a total failure. Didn’t use it in four days in Venice, and didn’t see anybody else use it. Used the vaporetti several times, and while scarce, did use the public facilities a couple of times, which cost 50 EURO cents. Take every opportunity for toilet breaks, as sometimes they can be hard to find.<BR><BR>Hygiene<BR>Italian men have no reservations about picking their noses in public. We rode the Eurostar to Venice sitting opposite a businessman in a expensive suit, who when he wasn’t talking on his cellphone had his right index finger buried up to the first knuckle in his nose.<BR><BR>I was quite pleased how clean the cities where, including Rome. Despite what I have read recently, old doen’t necessarily mean dirty. I thought there was very little litter or rubbish on the streets (especially compared to London), and the shop owners seemed to be constantly sweeping up around their businesses. <BR><BR>Dress Code<BR>There is none! Most people dress quite appropriately. Saw lots of jeans on every nationality. Didn’t see any “flag waving” that has been so widely criticized here about Americans. Absolutely no ball caps, Bud shirts, or anything with the US flag on it. I tried to listen to people speak and guess their nationality, and to be honest, the most sloppily dressed people (personal observation only) were the Germans. Their general outfit consisted of hiking boots, wrinkled T-shirt, and some type of plaid lumberjack type overshirt. Don’t know why but my personal peeve was the stupid looking fisherman hats all of the Japanese women wear.<BR>

Bravo, Jim -- really useful, honest information. This is the kind of posting that makes Fodors a great forum. A+ and a big gold star to you! Thanks.

Jim,<BR>Thanks for the affirmation about the driving, especially since it sounds like you are experienced. I have tried to discourage newcomers from driving in Italy but have been pooh-poohed. <BR><BR>It's like walking in Italy. It takes awhile to get used to the rhythm and movement. Same with driving except there is no room for error. On the whole, I think Italian drivers are skilled with fast reactions, but they know they rhythm and can anticipate the other drivers. Newcomers can't. My comments apply mainly to the autostrada and heavy city traffic. Rural roads such as in Tuscany are easier to conquer.

Thanks for the information. What was the name of that favorite restaurant in Siena.

I have to disagree with Santa Chiara concerning driving in Italy. I drove over to Italy (I'm English, so it was also on the opposite of the road for me) and spent 3 weeks driving around.<BR>Jim's description of a single lane in a city being used by 5 vehicle side by side rang very true and made me laugh. Florence in the rush hour was an exceptionally crazy experience but I would recommend it to anyone. Have your wits about you, keep your eyes peeled and go for it! Having accomplished that you'll feel so good!<BR>Parking in Siena was a bit of a problem but there is a huge underground carpark (nr Porta Romagna?) which was easy to slip in and out of and pretty well located.<BR>Autostrada is excellent "sport" just be sure to keep a wary eye out in the rearview mirror and be sure to pull back into the slow lane as soon as you see some speedfreak on the horizon flashing his headlights.<BR>(Twice saw such individuals pulled in 30 Km further on having a chat with local constabulary and having the wallets lightened - that's what I call schadenfreude!).<BR>I say just play those Italians at their own games and go for it... now when can I get to Naples?<BR>Dominic

It was called LaChicchera(e). It was awesome, and I don't use that word casually. Very small place, three outside tables, and three larger tables inside, plus a banquet room someplace in the back. Very exciting menu with some great Tuscan favorites including tripe and veal, chicken, pork and a beef roast cooked in a spicy tomato and pepper sauce (not arribiata) that was to die for. Good pasta courses, including a penne arribiata and a spaghetti primevera. It is located on Via Costa San Antonio just up the street from the Santaurio Santa Caterina.

Hi Jim. Overall, I enjoyed reading your comments but I have to disagree with you about people not driving "anywhere" in Italy unless they are a very confident driver. Undoubtedly that's very true for Rome, Naples, and other large, intense, Italian cities but I wouldn't apply that same principle to, say, the rural roads in Tuscany. <BR><BR>We stayed in Siena for five days/nights this past April and the only problem we had the entire time was figuring out how to get to the porte nearest to our locanda based on the confusing signs (so I had to laugh in recognition at your comment about spendng two days getting lost getting in and out of Siena.) I can't remember the name, but we ended up buying a detailed red map of Siena in a bookstore which helped us negotiate the area outside the city walls. Also, once we understood the concept that signs will only point you to the nearest one or two portas (out of the eight total), and you have to wait until you get to those portas to see signs for other portas, then we were fine. <BR><BR>The main problem I had with the signs around Siena was "sign clutter"; there were SO MANY sign on each post/roundabout -- not just for portas, but for hotels, etc. that trying to scan them all and find the one you were looking for, while driving, was very challenging. <BR><BR>We also had no problem parking. The first night we parked in the huge Il Campo pay lot at just inside the city walls at Porta Tufi but, every night after that, we managed to get a free parking spot on the street either outside Porta San Marco (quite a bit of on-street parking) or Porta Tufi (much more limited.) We had quite a hike to our locanda near Il Campo from both places but it was great exercise. <BR><BR>My only annoyance driving in Tuscany was the few -- very few -- drivers who would continue to tailgate, very close, even when they had ample opportunity to pass. Most drivers would tailgate, but then pass at the first available opportunity. <BR><BR>As for driving on the autostradas, I LOVED it because people in Italy (like those in France) understand the simple concept of slow traffic to the right, fast traffic to the left. <BR>

Campo: You are absolutely correct. I did probably overstate (generalize) about the intensity of driving situation. The point I was trying to make, and you stated much more clearly about the country roads in Tuscany. The other drivers continue to tailgate so badly that I never felt like I could relax long enough to look at the fabulous contryside. And to say fabulous is really not paying the Tuscan countryside its due.

Capo, you are absolutely correct. I have driven around Tuscany 3 times in the past 5 years, and did all the driving myself last year. The only part that tried my nerves was getting out of Rome. I consider myself a pretty confident person and an average to conservative driver, and I don't think there is any problem driving around the hill towns of Tuscany. <BR><BR>We called those tailgaters "Tailgateman" and had a running joke that he was following us all over Tuscany, always changing cars and sometimes disguised as a woman. Do you think if they outlawed espresso the Italians would drive differently? <BR><BR>By the way, because we visited Siena just a few days after the Palio, we could not get our choice of hotel. We stayed at the Hotel Athena. The rooms were kind of dumpy, but clean and not too expensive. The location was VERY convenient if you have a car and want to take it out for daily trips. It is right inside the Porta San Marco with parking under the hotel. About 5+ min walk to the Campo.

Jim, had to laugh at your nose picking comment. One of the things that turned me off about Italy was seeing so many men peeing on the side of the road in full view of everybody! To each his own, I guess, but what a turn off!

Pickpockets<BR>My god I forgot to add the most important thing, concern about Pickpockets. I went to Italy almost freaked about what I had read about the street theft problem. As I said earlier we spent two full weeks in Rome Venice Florence, Siena, Pisa, Assisi, Pompeii, etc,. At absolutley no time did we feel uncomfortable walking on the street or in crowds at any time of the day or night. Lots of beggars, but they hardly ever approach. Never say any gangs of kids or people with the cardboard scam, nothing at all. I watched very carefully and not once did I ever see anything suspicious any place, even occurring to other people around us. Still would be alert at all times, especially if your age or other circumstances might make you a potential victim.

Thanks, Jim & Marilyn. Although I'd driven in France (Provence) four times, I admit to being a bit nervous about Tuscany initially, only because two good friends of mine who have driven in both places -- and are what I'd consider confident drivers -- said they found driving in Tuscany to be more nerve-wracking. As it turned out, I could sort of understand but they were talking about but, on the other hand, I really didn't find it all that bad. <BR><BR>Marilyn, we had a running joke about the tailgaters too. The absolute worst seemed to be people -- of almost any age & sex -- in those boxy old Fiat Pandas. They were the "Panda People." :) <BR><BR>Jim, too bad about you feeling that you couldn't relax long enough to look at the Tuscan countryside. Did you, by any chance, get off onto any of the much smaller roads? We did, and rarely had a problem with many other cars on those roads. A smaller road we thought was particularly scenic was south of Siena, connecting S223 to S2, and passing through Vescovado. Hardly any traffic whatsoever. We also drove on S408 in Chianti, from Badia a Coltibuono down to Siena late on Friday and had it almost all to ourselves. <BR><BR>One of our most interesting drives was S73 between Colonna di Grillo and Monte San Savino. A very twisting and scenic road, it's apparently a favorite of local motocyclists. They were constantly whizzing by us, often taking curves with their bikes tipped and knees nearly touching the ground and, when we got to Palazzuolo, we talked to a group of them hanging out in a parking lot and found out this road is a local favorite. (It was also Liberation Day -- April 25th -- so there were probably more out than usual that day.) Palazzuolo, by the way, has a wonderful ristorante/bar called La Scuderia, where we stopped for delicious cappucinos and blood orange juice while watching Liberation Day ceremonies in rainy Rome. <BR><BR>Back to Siena... I do wish they'd put the names of the various portas on signs that would REALLY stand out from all the rest since it seems like the portas would be one of the main things that drivers would be trying to find.

Capo: I thought I'd never come across anyone else who knows of Vescovado! I spent the best summer of my life there working on an archeological dig.

Hi Letitia. Well, you just never know when a familiar name will surface here, do you? :) <BR><BR>We didn't stop there so I don't remember much about it except that it was my girlfriend's first experience of driving through narrow streets in a small provincial village. We orginally planned to head south on S2 to Montalcino but got onto S223 instead and, since that was marked as a scenic road on our Michelin map -- the section from S223 to Vescovado anyway -- we figured it would be a good choice to cut back over to S2. <BR><BR>That was our first day driving in Tuscany and, along with our drive to Volterra, our favorite. We especiallly loved the classic Tuscan postcard scenes, with the rows of cypress trees, in that area south of Siena. <BR><BR>Did you find any bits of Etruscan pottery or gold or anything else? <BR>

We go to Italy every year for 2-3 weeks, rent a car and then it becomes a team effort to navigate but we always come through it and I wouldn't do it any differently.<BR>There are a few cities that are more maddening than others like Bologna and Sienna (for the parking issues).<BR>This year, we are going to Naples for the first time and I have decided to listen to the forum advice and not even attempt driving.<BR>I'm probably more afraid of theft than of anything else.<BR>Overall, the maps are good but do yourself a favor and get a detailed atlas. Those smaller roads are often a necessity when the larger stradas are jammed.....and the smaller roads are much more scenic and pleasant anyway. This is probably why we enjoy driving. We tend to find the smaller roads for traveling. City travel is unnerving because you will most likely miss your turn and then have to retrace steps to do it again. The coast travel is also tricky with the hairpin turns. Honking is your survival mode. The most hair-raising driving that we experienced was in the Carrara marble quarries. The tiny little roads were not large enough for a car and the large marble trucks that roar down the hill. Needless to say, there was no negotiation with the truck. We were forced to pull within centimeters of the cliffs and wait for the trucks to inch by. <BR>Some of my favorite memories of Italy are from the car.<BR>Don't miss this part of the experience.....and I am not a particularly aggressive or fast driver. I just let the Italians have the fast lane whenever possible and don't get too intimidated when I am going slower than the scooters want to go on the coastal roads. They pass you anyway.<BR>

It's amazing that picking your nose in public is no big deal but when I brushed a few breadcrumbs off my pant leg on the train, a beautifully dressed Italian man looked at me and audibly gasped.

ttt

I agree with Jim about the pickpocket topic. We were prepared for the worse but in reality we walked everywhere and no one tried to pickpocket us. It felt comfortable walking around. Maybe we did not venture everywhere but this was in the main tourist sites where there are alot of crowds.