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Jamikins and BikerScott Hit Rome for New Year's 2011/2012

Jamikins and BikerScott Hit Rome for New Year's 2011/2012

Dec 23rd, 2011, 04:59 AM
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,478

I'll email you "The List" tonight (don't have access to it here at work).


I'll be watching the international news with anticipation waiting to see if y'all stir up any trouble! ;-)
LowCountryIslander is offline  
Dec 23rd, 2011, 06:00 AM
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 22,164
Can not WAIT to read your TR. Hope the 3rd time is the proverbial charm in Roma.
TDudette is online now  
Dec 23rd, 2011, 06:49 AM
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 261
We enjoyed a lunch sitting outside in the Autumn sunshine at roma sparita in Trastevere which is one of the guardians top ten picksbr />

Also enjoyed http://www.matricianella.it/ which is north of Pantheon. I recall a brilliant light and fluffy fried cheese starter and my partner had a radiccio risotto which was also very good.

We also bought some amazing types of mushrooms [bigger and jucier than I have ever seen anywhere else] from a market stall and simply fried with garlic and butter and served with pasta in our apartment. Yum.

I am so looking forward to reading your report.
loncall is offline  
Dec 23rd, 2011, 08:45 AM
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,645
I second www.parlafood.com as a great resource for all things food in Rome.

Our hands-down favorite in Rome is Roscioli - love it so much we ate there twice in one trip!
ekc is offline  
Dec 23rd, 2011, 08:58 AM
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 8,548
Last spring the standouts for me were Asino d'Oro in Monti, Antico Arco (third visit, great food, good wine list, slightly upscale), and Roma Sparita (right on Piazza Santa Cecilia).


I also check out Katie Parla's blog when planning a visit to Rome.

Have fun!
Leely2 is offline  
Dec 23rd, 2011, 04:35 PM
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,478

I sent you an email with my list. If you have not received it let me know, I may not have your correct email address.
LowCountryIslander is offline  
Dec 23rd, 2011, 11:16 PM
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,298
LowCountry - hmm I didnt get it - I'll just post the email here: [email protected]

You guys are giving me great options - cant wait to try them all out!!!! 2 more sleeps to go!!
jamikins is offline  
Dec 24th, 2011, 04:30 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,628
Looking forward to another entertaining trip report.

I had a great four days in Rome in April but no memorable meals, not Rome's fault.

It was a particular relief not to go to the Vatican; I had been twice before and second incentive to give it a miss was we arrived the day John Paul II was beatified.

My second time at the Borghese Gallery was as wonderful as the first, the sculptures are incredible.

Have a great time!
Cathinjoetown is offline  
Dec 24th, 2011, 05:31 AM
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,944
Parla Food, what a great tip, wow!

I see her recent post was on great places to eat over Xmas and New Years...
flygirl is offline  
Dec 24th, 2011, 10:15 AM
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,478

I re-sent the email. In my usual fashion, I had the incorrect email address...thanks for providing it again.


Yes, Katie Parla is a good Rome food resource!
LowCountryIslander is offline  
Dec 24th, 2011, 10:41 AM
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 52,441
brava, jamikins - if you have managed to get bikerscott back to Rome after those two false starts, then there's hope for me getting DH back there too!

you've had many great recommendations above, can i add a couple?

firstly, the galleria doria pamphilji - part palace, [audio-guid by a scion of the family with the poshest english accent you are ever likely to hear, including the Queen] part art museum/gallery. a fantastic collection which anywhere else would have them queuing out the door and round the corner.

secondly - the area between the via coronari, and the piazza navona - just so many interesting little shops and businesses. we stayed in an apartment near there and I never tired of wandering round the streets looking at people working marble or making mosaics, or getting their dogs trimmed, just like Romans did 2000 years ago.

also great restaurants like the antica taverna - http://www.anticatavernamangiabene.it/

our landlady recommended it to us, and had her birthday dinner there; we ate there twice and it didn't disappoint.
annhig is offline  
Dec 24th, 2011, 02:08 PM
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LowCountry - got it - thank you so much!!

So many fabulous recommendations - cant wait to try as many as possible!

Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas, and we look forward to sharing our 'adventures' as well as food reports with all of our Fodors family in a couple of days

jamikins is offline  
Dec 24th, 2011, 09:22 PM
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Merry Christmas jamikins, wish you all the fun in Rome !!!!
Can't wait to read your TR
clausar is offline  
Dec 26th, 2011, 11:54 AM
Join Date: Feb 2006
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romefoodtours - you seem to have ignored the ban on advertising when you signed up to be a member of fodors.
annhig is offline  
Dec 26th, 2011, 02:19 PM
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 541
A Roman Holiday

Day One – To Rome!

I may have been a bit too excited about our week in Rome last night when I set the alarm – for some reason the idea of waking up at 7:45 am in the morning for our 2:30 pm flight seemed completely reasonable. Not so much in the morning, glad for the snooze button. Due to the early hour we managed a somewhat leisurely morning, with time to walk and feed the dogs before the kennel arrived to pick them up for their holiday (can’t just be us – they get a week of pampering etc at a kennel not far from us).

It turned out that due to good planning, all of the transportation in London other than the DLR was on strike for Boxing Day. We’d heard about this in advance and booked a taxi to take us to Gatwick airport. Unfortunately our flat is a new build and still isn’t on a lot of sat nav systems, so a very frustrating 20 minutes later when the driver finally showed up we were a bit fraught. Jamie had thought ahead and scheduled a bit of delay into our timings so we weren’t going to be late, but the driver didn’t know that.

Added to the chaos on the trains was a three car pileup on the M25, so our driver had to take the alternative route to get to the airport. I think that he was concerned that between him being 20 minutes late and the problems on the road we’d miss our flight, so he drove like a maniac. I honestly thought we were going to die. He kept taking us down side streets and lanes between buildings at unbelievable speeds. When we finally got to a dual carriageway, he hit 150km/hr. And he wasn’t a good driver.

Fortunately we made it in plenty of time and checked in without much hassle (other than Jamie not reading the full screen on the self-check-in terminal and selecting “no” rather than the correct “yes” response). We were even invited through the “invite only” security line, because the girl in charge of inviting people liked the look of us apparently – I wasn’t going to argue.

Much waiting later, we boarded the plane. Just before our seats were called, a man carrying a small child walked down the ramp to the plane, the child screaming bloody murder all the way. Classic.

Our seats were quite a ways forward from the screaming child, but he had projection and volume. Apparently he did not want to be on the plane, and wasn’t shy about voicing his objectives. Repeated “I do not want to be on the airplane, I don’t want it, I don’t want it, I want to get off the airplane, I don’t want to be on the airplane” echoed about the plane for the entire one hour mechanical delay. Of course there was an hour delay – they had a screaming child on board, they couldn’t leave on time could they?

As with almost all of my flights, I managed to fall asleep pretty much immediately, only waking for the presentation of the chicken sandwich – not bad for airplane food, but I’m not sure worth waking me from a perfectly good nap for. The kid finally shut up though, which was nice.

I guess no one told the driver at the Rome end of our journey that the flight was delayed, and he didn’t check in advance, so he wasn’t in the best of moods when we finally got through customs. He wasn’t as bad a driver as the guy in London, but the streets in Rome are much narrower so the danger seems much greater. We counted three red lights we went through without so much as slowing down, but I figured that we were in the eternal city, which is blessed, so we’d be fine. Also, I was in the back seat, what could I do?

We finally made it to the apartment, and it has turned out to be amazing. Exactly the sort of place I’d want to live if I lived in Rome. The neighbourhood seems interesting with loads of people out and about, and more restaurants and bars than you could shake a stick at (if shaking sticks about is something you do, that is). The apartment is bigger than it feels like it should be somehow, and feels like we’re staying in someone’s home, rather than an impersonal hotel somewhere. We are really looking forward to spending a week here.

After dropping our bags and taking a look around (and a bit of a snoop, because lets be honest, everyone does it), we walked over the river and up to Campo di Fiori to find the restaurant for dinner. After a bit of a search we found it but were about an hour early. We thought that a pre-dinner drink was in order, and managed to find ourselves in the only American bar around (the Drunken Ship) – completely accidentally and unintentionally, I assure you. I should have known better based on the sign advertising student specials throughout the week, but they had outdoor heaters and it seemed like a good location for people watching.

Eventually it was time for dinner and we walked back to Restaurant Ditirambo (http://www.ristoranteditirambo.it/). Our table wasn’t quite ready so we spent a few awkward moments standing in the very small doorway area waiting, admiring the odd translations on the sign outside advising us that Ditirambo prides itself on “Clearness, Limpidity, and Effort” (we had to look up limpidity – it doesn’t mean what we thought it did).

Dinner was excellent – a starter of pasta with artichokes and pork cheeks for me followed by stewed wild boar with a forest berry reduction, and potatoes smothered in cheese and truffles for Jamie followed by pasta with pepper and ewe’s milk cheese. All were excellent, and the house wine was surprisingly good as well. Unfortunately the service didn’t match up with the food – we were ignored for much of the evening and had trouble getting anyone’s attention. Disappointing. Despite the service, I’d have to recommend it – the food was that good.

After stuffing ourselves to the point of being uncomfortable, we made our way back to the still lively Trastevere for a final glass of wine in our little flat before calling it a night. A slightly stressful but overall excellent day – we started in London and have ended up in Rome – can’t ask for much better than that.
BikerScott is offline  
Dec 26th, 2011, 04:59 PM
Join Date: Nov 2003
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Happy to hear your first meal in Rome was a "hit" in the food category. I often say, if the food is good and the service less then perfect I can deal with it, but if the food and service were both "misses" that's the "death" of a restaurant for me! Ditirambo is one of my favorites!
LowCountryIslander is offline  
Dec 26th, 2011, 11:28 PM
Original Poster
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Yes, LCI (sorry, just being lazy with your name) it was a hit! Agree that if both are bad then its a write off!

Well it is a lovely sunny, not a cloud in the sky, morning here in Rome - YAY! The plan is to hit up a market in Trastevere to get some goods for Scott to cook for dinner tonight (plus we just love food markets), take some photos, and enjoy a long yummy lunch! Perhaps throw in some wine, you never know, we might feel like being crazy for a change

I said above I would describe the flat we are staying in, and in one word - it is PERFECT! We love it. It is on the 2nd (3rd North American) story above a lively cafe in a small square just a few minutes walk from the Tiber. So maybe a 10-15 min walk from Campo de Fiori. Its very well laid out. Sounds from the square can be heard through the windows in the living room and bathroom, but not at all in the bedroom. The bed is a bit hard for my taste, but comfy. And you can tell it has been loved and lived in. Everything is well stocked, great shower, all the books you could ever read as well as guide books and info on the area. You know how some rentals feel like rentals and you couldnt imagine living in them? This is the complete opposite. I could actually live long term in this flat and it would feel like home.

So two thumbs up!

Ok, off for coffee and breakfast! Enjoy your day everyone!
jamikins is offline  
Dec 27th, 2011, 12:50 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Living vicariously through your report.

In the photos, the flat looks like it has French doors. Do you have a balcony?

Have fun, I know you will!
Cathinjoetown is offline  
Dec 27th, 2011, 06:50 AM
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,648
I'm looking forward to your "live" trip report. I've so enjoyed your others. The apartment does look lovely and I'll be interested in how you like the area.

Funny to find the American bar.
cw is offline  
Dec 27th, 2011, 08:19 AM
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 52,441
ooh, funny how you kept the roman taxi driver waiting. speaking as someone who's waited for one of them on a number of occasions, i'm please to see one of us getting out own back.

i had seen your apartment on the web before and wondered if it could be as good as the reviews - nice to find out that it is. i haven't spent much time in Trastevere but there was a tread a while ago from a fodorite who spend a month living in an apartment there [not yours, i think] and she loved it.

looking forward to more!
annhig is offline  

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