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bon_voyage Aug 3rd, 2009 12:27 PM

It's SICILY for our special trip--thoughts/suggestions on the first draft
 
I’m in the process of planning a special trip for our family of four for next June and had just about closed the deal with Crete and Santorini when I read Ian’s and then Bob’s trip reports on Sicily. We like to travel independently, and, while we’ve driven throughout Europe, including Italy and Greece, I had been concerned about tackling Sicily because of its reputedly free-for-all approach to the road. My younger son spent a week on Sicily as part of a study abroad program and has long waxed enthusiastic about the island’s beauty, the multitude of knock-your-socks-off attractions, and the fantastic food. To cut to the chase, we now have a new destination. Five stops will be as many as my group can handle, and our pace tends to be on the slow side. My husband says that I’ll travel any distance to look at a pile of rocks. Guilty as charged. I provide the plan for the accommodations and sights; he does the food. I care about where we stay. Character and charm highly desirable. Crystal chandeliers, gilt, and antique furniture with spindly legs are negatives. Generally looking to spend less than 200 euros/room/night but some flexibility. Love shopping for locally made items. Here’s what the tentative itinerary looks like--nothing has been booked yet. We’d fly into Catania and out of Palermo.

Taormina 3 nights Villa Schuler (www.hotelvillaschuler.com)
Actually toyed with the idea of staying at the San Domenico Palace but just couldn’t swallow those rates even if it is my birthday trip.

Syracuse/Ortigia 2 nights Domus Mariae (www.sistemia.it/domusmariae)
or Algila Ortigia Charme (www.algila.it)
Other recommendations?
The Algila gets lots of good reviews on TA. Anyone have first-hand knowledge?

stop for lunch in Noto and then on to

Ragusa 3 or 4 nights Eremo della Giubiliana
(www.eremodellagiubiliana.com)

Right now this is the splurge stop. I know I’ll want to see at least Modica in addition to Ragusa, hiking in the Cava d’Ispica looks intriguing, and we plan to day trip from this stop to the Roman mosaics at the Villa Imperiale. The hassle factor of getting to and from a town hotel to wherever the car is parked for excursions and the attendant passenger meltdowns are making me think twice about staying in town here. Having one really nice countryside stay would also be a plus.

see the temples at Agrigento and then stop at

Selinunte area ? 1 or 2 nights Villa Sogno (http://www.villasogno.it)
Could see the ruins at Selinunte the day we arrive, depending on the group’s wishes, or the next morning. Will definitely stop at Segesta at some point.

Are there other don’t miss attractions on the southwestern side? Is Erice really worth a journey? Maybe the salt flats and the Salt museum? If yes, does Selinunte make a good base for seeing them? I also thought about staying at Scopello, liking the idea of a seaside location with hiking possibilities, but that would make for a very long travel day if I’m to hold to my 5 stops.

Palermo 3 nights? Haven’t been able to get a handle on the hotel for Palermo yet. I know we’ll want to stay in the center. We'd spend more if necessary for a nice four star that offers good memories for our last stay. The top three choices in Tripadvisor, Porta Felice, Ucciardhome, Garibaldi, seem to be in the ballpark. Are their locations good/comparable? The Principe de Villafranca has gotten some recent dings in TA.
We'll see Monreale either on our way in to Palermo (plan to drop the car as soon as possible) or take the bus from the city.

We’ve decided to drop London and have two to two and a half weeks, not counting travel days, to play with. Thanks for all coments and suggestions!

Sassafrass Aug 3rd, 2009 05:12 PM

No suggestions. Just want to say that the "pile of rocks" at Agrigento was something I had dreamed of seeing since I was a teen and it more than met my expectations. It stands out as one of the most wonderful archeological sites I have visited. You will love it.

thursdaysd Aug 3rd, 2009 05:18 PM

Erice is definitely worth visiting, as is old town Trapani. For pix see kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/519560 - password "erice" and for description see http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-sicily.cfm?62

bobthenavigator Aug 3rd, 2009 06:02 PM

Glad my report was helpful---I assume you saw the photo gallery as well--it is my favorite.
We are talking about going back next May just so Susan can see Noto without scaffolding. It would be brief in Sicily this time after a week or more on the AC.

bon_voyage Aug 3rd, 2009 07:59 PM

Thank you all for your encouraging responses. Sassafrass, I do fully expect to love Agrigento and the many other piles of rocks not to be missed. Thursdaysd and Bob, your photos are fabulous. Thursdaysd, the part of your trip report that dealt with the area around Trapani helped me get a feel for that area. The photos of otherworldly Erice made me wonder what it would have been like to have lived there in its heyday.

morningstar Aug 3rd, 2009 09:02 PM

You will love Sicily. We did the same trip in May. The one surprise was how much we loved Palermo. Stayed at the Wagner and could not have had a nicer stay. We even drove into Palermo by mistake, missed the airport excit and did not have any problems. Enjoy

bon_voyage Aug 3rd, 2009 09:35 PM

Morningstar, thanks for the information on the Wagner. What was your itinerary and where else did you stay?

lbelgray Aug 6th, 2009 09:48 AM

I was in Sicily in 2006 and absolutely loved it. Great choice.

In Palermo, we stayed in a chic b&b called bb22. Rooms were not huge but really stylish. It's very centrally located, but in a quiet cul-de-sac on a side street.
www.bb22.it
We were there 3 nights which was enough for us - weren't in love with Palermo but did love the food.

We went from there to Modica, where we extended our stay by 2 days as soon as we saw the town. It was one of my favorite places ever. Stayed at Casa Talia, ( www.casatalia.it ) which is a really special place run by a couple from Milan. They designed it themselves, up on the hill in the former Jewish quarter, built into the rocks. The views over Modica are astonishingly beautiful. It's a short trek up and down stairs to get between there and the main street below. We liked the exercise. Especially because the breakfasts they served in their garden were amazing, and the town had the best pistachio gelato I've ever eaten. Loved the restaurant Sappori Perdutti for home-style food.
In Modica, L'Orangerie, which is on the main street, also looks like a very nice place to stay.

We visited Ragusa and ate dinner at the 2* Michelin there. It's a beautiful town also, but felt a lot quieter than Modica. We didn't really see anyone out and about, even in the main square. Modica felt more like a bustling community, with lots of cafes and a lively passegiata in the evening.

I think you've picked the right hotel in Ortygia - I liked it better than the one we stayed at.

Taormina has incredible views and seemed like a nice place to be if you're splashing out at a great hotel. But I was so glad we only did a day trip there, as we'd been advised by some friends who described it as very touristy. They were right. But other people love it, so...depends whether you're bothered by big bus tours and lots of menus in English.

I don't know whether you're really into food, but just in case, here are our food notes:

FOOD:

PALERMO:
La Cambusa, in Piazza Marina - go for lunch.
San Francesco - famous place, tourists but also lots of locals. Not the friendliest service but worth it for the food. We liked it for dinner.

MODICA:
Sappori Perdutti - very popular local place, ate here two nights in a row.
Gelati Divini - best gelato (pistachio) we had the whole trip.

RAGUSA:
Il Duomo - michelin starred restaurant. Our most (and only) expensive meal in Sicily. Incredible food.

NOTO:
Pastries from Caffe Sicilia.

SIRACUSA:
L'Ancora: the best restaurant on Ortygia, and our favorite in Sicily. Packed with locals and no tourists. Very non-descript looking, especially from the outside. We went three nights in a row because we knew none of the other restaurants would be as good. Everyone recommended other places - just happened to find this one on someone's travel/ food blog. MAKE SURE to order the linguine a l'ancora.
Ate at Archimede once for lunch, a place everyone says is great. Nope.

ekscrunchy Aug 6th, 2009 09:51 AM

GREAT tips above. I can only add that I loved the Domus Mariae.

Cinzia, the receptionist at the time I stayed at the hotel (2005), ranks with the most charming and helpful hotel workers I have encountered.

latedaytraveler Aug 6th, 2009 10:57 AM

Bon voyage, my suggestion would be to watch the three classic GODFATHER films again - they really make me want to return to Sicily. We visited the site of the tavern scene in the first GODFATHER flick, just outside of Taormina.

Bob, your pics of Sicily are great - I review them from time to time.

bobthenavigator Aug 6th, 2009 11:16 AM

Aw shucks---grazie !

bon_voyage Aug 8th, 2009 01:07 PM

Wow, I just saw all these new responses! Thank you all so much. Great minds, lbelgray. I decided to take another look at possibilities in Ragusa/Modica and had zeroed in on Casa Talía. I think it's going to be better for us and significantly less expensive to boot. And we are most definitely into food. Your restaurant tips look right up our alley and will get printed out today. Thanks for the information on bb22 in Palermo, will check it out. And lbelgray, I wasn't sure whether you were referring to the Domus Marie or the Algila when you wrote, "I think you've picked the right hotel in Ortigia." Which one? Ekscrunchy, I have also found that "charming and helpful hotel workers" go a long way toward making an experience memorable. Latedaytraveler, I had to smile at your post because The Godfather is my husband's favorite movie of all time, and we've watched I and II more times than I can remember. I'm also giving serious thought to the Villa Carlotta in Taormina as being perhaps a bit prettier than the Villa Schuler. We will be coming from California, and, while the touristy aspect of Taormina is a downside, right now I think it will serve well as our get-over-jet lag first stop.

The part of the trip between the Baroque cities and Palermo still needs ironing out. The decisions:
1) Daytrip to the Villa Casale from Modica or go there on the way from Modica to Agrigento
2) See Selinunte and Segesta and otherwise skip the west or possibly add a destination and stay at Scopello

Again, thank you all for all of your encouragement and great suggestions.

huddoshols Aug 8th, 2009 03:30 PM

We also stayed at Domus Marie a few years ago and loved it . Great location and try to book early to get a room with a sea view.
Taormina was actually a favourite,but we wandered through the town and gardens away from the crowds. We stayed at La Pensione Svizzera. It was off the main drag but still close to everything and they parked our car. I just read the recent reviews on T/A and I would stay there again.
Agrigento,if you do all the sights,is a big day especially if it is hot. You may want to spend the night. Otherwise go early before the buses arrive.
You will love Sicily.

cmstraf Aug 8th, 2009 03:44 PM

The Palazzo Centrale in Palermo was one of the nicest hotels we ever stayed in. Don't be fooled that it is a Best Western; this three star American chain has bought up some wonderful old four star palazzos in Italy. The location is very central, the hotel elegant with a rooftop outside dining area, the staff was more than cordial. It was beyond our usual budget but we can't imagine staying anyplace else and hope to someday go back (my DH is from Genoa, which usually points us to more northern routes).

If you are staying in Palermo over a Sunday, go to see the church in Monreale around 9:30. With luck, you will arrive just after the first mass, can walk around the church and beautiful cloisters, then attend the 11:00 mass, during which the mosaics are illuminated and tourists are not allowed to enter the church, which is the most beautiful we have ever seen.

We also loved Segesta, Noto and the Piazzale Armenia (??), which I think even your DH would like. We found Agrigento too crowded to fully appreciate.

bon_voyage Aug 8th, 2009 05:59 PM

Thanks a lot, huddoshols and cmstraff! Domus Mariae is certainly a popular choice. Looks like we couldn't go wrong there.
Re the Centrale, I know European BWs are a different animal, and we already have a positive Best Western bias since they were a mainstay of our family trips out West. Seeing the mosaics illuminated sounds fabulous--will definitely see if we can work that out.

lbelgray Aug 8th, 2009 08:55 PM

Oh great, I'm glad you're thinking about Talia - the owners are so cool and put so much thought into creating the place. I mean, the floor of their breakfast room is made of rows of patterned tiles that they spent 4 years collecting from different sources. Just amazing.
One of the magazines - maybe it was CN Traveler? British version? - did a spread on Modica and Talia last month. It said, "discover it before everyone else does" and I'd say, definitely do, especially now that they let the cat out of the bag.

Domus Mariae was the place in Ortigia I was reffering to. It was on a gorgeous side of the island, by the water, and looked very chic.

Sicily was one of my favorite places ever!

morningstar Aug 8th, 2009 09:43 PM

We loved the Villa Carlotta. It is a fabulous hotel and the staff can not do enough for you. The breakfast is served on the balcony on the top floor with beautiful views. Make sure you request a room with a balcony. We spent three nights and then drove to Siracuse for two nights, spent a night in Modica and one night in Piazza Armeina, two nights in Agrigento, one night in Erice and three nights in Palermo. If I could change anything I would not stay in Piazza Armenia but do it as a day trip. However, it is a long trip to see the Villa. Don't forget to buy chocolates in Modica. We bought some to give as gifts, but should have bought more. It is so unique. The reason we liked the Wagner is the location and staff and we got a special rate that was very good.

dutyfree Aug 8th, 2009 09:55 PM

Ortigia-God's heaven on earth. Enjoy!(Hope that it is still wonderful despite Marriott knocking down the post office and running off the local market.)

thursdaysd Aug 9th, 2009 05:28 AM

"running off the local market" - they did?!?! I was worried about that - it was right below my B&B, and not only convenient but fun to watch. They'd already run off the bus station - very annoying.

dutyfree Aug 9th, 2009 06:21 AM

My daughter studied there in college and our family LOVED this city. Friends went back last year and said that "civilization" has come to Ortigia in regards to their urban planning. So sad..

diguiseppi Aug 9th, 2009 07:41 AM

Sicily is a wonderful destination .
My husband and I stayed at the villa schuler and highly recommned it.
They have a wraparound terrace that overlooks Mt Etna. and spectacualer gardens It is also easy walking distance to an Domenico Palace - we stopped for a drink in the hotel bar just to take a peek > you will be able to relax, visit the main floor and gardens
For Siracusa look into Agriturismo hotels We stayed at "Limoneto" the cost typically requires 1/2board and at dinner we met people from Australia, England, Madrid and a couple from Bologna on their honeymoon We talked and shared travel stories to the wee hours.
You may look into Agriturisomo hotels for other locations in Sicily.

A must see is the Villa of Casale in Enna. A town that is en route from Taormina to Agrigento.It is a roman villa dating back 700 years. the outstanding feature is the 3,500 square meters of mosaics that decorated the floors of teh villa.

Sorry no hotel suggestions for Palermo We were fortunate enough to stay with family in Carini a town very close to palermo .

Be sure to visit Monreale the cathedral is decorated in 18 carate mosaic tiles Truly spectacular

thursdaysd Aug 9th, 2009 08:04 AM

"the Villa of Casale in Enna" - the Villa Casale has wonderful mosaics, but it's not in Enna. The nearest town is Piazza Armerina, there's an agriturismo just outside (www.torrerenda.it/intro/index_eng.htm)

For Siracusa I would not stay in an agriturismo, but on the island of Ortigia - although I'm rather upset by dutyfree's news - when last year, dutyfree? I was there in April last year and it was still magical then.

bon_voyage Aug 9th, 2009 11:23 AM

Thanks, morningstar, dutyfree, thursdaysd, and diguiseppi, for all that useful information! Morningstar, while the Villa Carlotta's decor looked light and fresh on the website, the Wagner's looked a bit heavy. Was it ok? And I promise we won't leave Modica without our chocolate.
It sounds like we won't be getting to Ortigia a moment too soon. From everything I've read and you all have told me, I know I'm going to like it. I appreciate the enthusistic thumbs up on the Roman mosaics. The Villa Casale will be a daytrip from Modica and will take special effort on my part to get there. The Decider (my husband) and I sat down with the map yesterday to finalize the itinerary which will be Taormina (3 nights), Ortigia (2), Modica (4), Selinunte (3), and Palermo (3). I wanted to build in enough days so that we never feel rushed and figure we can always move on should we get bored with any one place.

thursdaysd Aug 9th, 2009 11:35 AM

I suppose I can't convince you to make it Taormina (2) and Ortigia (3)? After you've admired the view, visited the Greek theater and the gardens, and gone up to Castelmola, there's noting to do in Taormina except shop. And beach time, I suppose, I'm not a beach person. Or are you using it as a base for Mt. Etna?

Ian Aug 9th, 2009 02:06 PM

We were in Ortygia in late May & walked through the bustling market. It is in behind the Tempio di Appolo. There certainly wasn't any construction. And Ortygia spoiled? No, it is not. There are a lot of renos underway in town but we loved it.

I agree with thursdaysd that 2 nights in Taormina was enough.

Another option for Modica is Le Magnolie Hotel. Excellent & only one flight of stairs & a small hill up from Corso Umberto.

see http://members.rennlist.com/imcarthur/sicily.htm

Ian

bon_voyage Aug 9th, 2009 05:45 PM

Well, I won't be able to say you guys didn't warn me if we wind up staring at the walls in Taormina after 2 nights. I'm just about to begin investigating flights and will see when we'd actually arrive in Taormina, and I'll also check the skipping out early policy of the hotels. Getting over the rigors of the trip is a major consideration for us. Ian, Le Magnolie looks lovely; however, your description of driving into Modica was so vividly harrowing that I knew we'd best find a place with easier access and parking. Anything negative from your standpoint re Casa Talía? Also, if anyone has any first hand knowledge of the Algila Charme Hotel in Ortigia, I'd love to hear it now.

latedaytraveler Aug 9th, 2009 06:59 PM

Bon Voyage, May I suggest two books before you embark on your Sicilian adventure? THE LEOPARD by di Lampedusa, the quintessential novel of Sicily which I have read three time in the past six years. I envy you the experience of reading this masterpiece for the first time. Also, STONE BOUDOIR by Theresa Maggio, an American who retraces her family’s roots in Sicily.
What an amazing place! Enjoy.

lbelgray Aug 9th, 2009 08:12 PM

Bon Voyage, the parking at Talia is no problem, as I remember - you just can't drive right up to the door. I'm not positive but I think they had a space reserved for guests. We never had trouble when we were parking up there on the upper level where Talia is. Down below, in the main part of town, might be a different story.
I recommend driving in during daylight hours, because finding the place can be a bit tricky when you don't know where you're going. It certainly helps to have a cell phone on you so you can get in touch with them. When we arrived Marco came down, found us, and led us back up.
It's a piece of cake once you know where it is.

bon_voyage Aug 9th, 2009 08:36 PM

Latedaytraveler, thanks for those recommendations! I've read The Leopard and will put Stone Boudoir on the list. Thank you, lbelgray, for the additional information about parking at Casa Talía. I had noticed on the map on their website that they appeared to have designated parking. We'll definitely arrive during daylight hours.

Ian Aug 10th, 2009 04:52 AM

From what I can figure out, the Talia is well up from the Corso Umberto – most things are btw – so be prepared for some hill climbing to/from the hotel. Most restaurants are either on the CU or up the hill on the Alta side.

See http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...dica-alto2.jpg

Your hotel will be roughly center & slightly left of the treed area. This photo was taken from the steps of San Giorgio on the Alta – which is a healthy climb up from the CU.

And be aware that Selinunte is a small, basic sleepy town. The Sogno seems to be on SS115 leading in from the hwy – not a particularly pretty area – nothing wrong with it but not scenic.

Ian

dutyfree Aug 10th, 2009 05:17 AM

In case you cannot get your first choice-We always stayed at the Hotel Gutowski(sp?) in Ortigia which is practically next door to your choice. It `has the same wonderful views and a terrific/friendly/helpful staff. Their rooms (8 and 9,if I remember correctly/ are very romantic and overlook the water. It is a hotel that is decorated very simply(lots of whites and blues). The price is great too!It was featured last year in Budget Travel magazine as a special place to stay in Ortigia.

Ortigia is one place that I would definitely recommend staying IN TOWN because the magic appears early in the morning with the sun breaking over the water ,strolls at night along the harbor imagining the battles fought and ships sunk in ancient times or just relaxing over a coffee at the local Cafe Minerva.Be sure to take in the marionette show-great fun and beautiful old puppets every Weds. night.

lbelgray Aug 10th, 2009 07:34 AM

Bon Voyage, to give you a little preview (and maybe help orient you if you do stay there) here are some photos from our stay at Casa Talia in Modica, as well as a few that don't show much from bb22 in Palermo.
http://s868.photobucket.com/albums/a...albumview=grid
Enjoy.

bon_voyage Aug 10th, 2009 01:15 PM

Ian and lbelgray, thanks for the photo links. I do love the looks of Modica. It's the relatively easy parking for getting in and out of town, the garden, and the views that are selling Casa Talía. I am figuring that we can take the car and park closer to restaurants if need be. Dutyfree, we'll definitely be staying in Ortigia. Point taken re Selinunte. Right now it's sort of a place holder, may still shave a day off there.
I am now descending into flight reservations hell, trying to see what upgrade possibilities are available via American.

WanderingTexan Aug 10th, 2009 02:26 PM

Try to see Villa Carsale if you can. I enjoyed the mosaics there.

bon_voyage Aug 10th, 2009 03:29 PM

Another vote for making the effort to see the mosaics--thanks, WanderingTexan!

Geonev Aug 10th, 2009 03:50 PM

Some thoughts on Sicily: First, fear not the driving. In two weeks there we had no problem with the roads (much better than Amalfi!) or the style of driving we encountered. Only in old Palermo was the driving a bit nerve-wracking.

Three days in Taormina is not too many, especially as you will be just arriving. Relax and get into the pace. They have a marvelous passagiata and stunning views, day and night, over the village, the coastline and Etna.

In Siracusa, consider L’Approdo delle Sirene, which means “Siren’s Landing.” See it at www.apprododellesirene.com. I have not stayed there but have a visit planned next spring, and am looking forward to it.

A reviewer for Kee Magazine called this hotel/b&b "trendy yet refined" and said it "offers access to Sicily’s natural beauty as well as its rich architectural history. As guests step
out of the nineteenth century palazzo in which the hotel is housed, they are met, as in Venice, with a choice: stroll along Ortigia’s narrow cobblestone streets or board a boat. Private ships wait on the landing in front of the hotel ready to transport guests to the white cliffs of Sicily’s coast or around Ortigia’s historic center, where visitors can view the city’s skyline of palaces and churches just as millennia of settlers have seen it: from the sea."

I did stay at Domus Mariae and enjoyed it but somehow I think I'm going to like the Siren's Landing better.

Finally, Selinunte looked WAY too quiet for an overnight, much less several, and we easily left Agrigento, visited Selininte and Segesta, and ended in Erice, in one day.

Not sure where you are staying in Ragusa, but consider making sure you stay in medieval Ragusa Ibla, and not modern Ragusa, which lacked charm.

lbelgray Aug 10th, 2009 05:05 PM

L'Approdo, that's where i stayed. I'd blanked on the name. It's totally cute, but I preferred the beautiful views on the other side. L'Approdo faces the harbor, and the others face out to sea. Stunning view.

Ian Aug 10th, 2009 05:18 PM

Since you go right by Caltagirone - it's about ½ way to the Villa Romana del Casale from Modica - you really should buzz in for a ceramics fix. Park as close as you can to the town center – the inevitable Duomo. Turn your husband & any other uninterested parties loose & tell them to bugger off & take pictures or something for 2 hrs while you peruse the shops.

If you want to beach it at all, Port Palo - just east of Selinunte - has a nice one & a great restaurant - da Vittorio's. There also was a beach visible west from the Selinunte 'town' ruins that didn't seem bad. The Med is pretty cold though but the sun will be hot.

Ian

bon_voyage Aug 10th, 2009 06:57 PM

Geonev, thanks for your input on Taormina and your recommendation of the Approdo in Ortigia. Ortigia clearly has a lot of appealing options. Ian, I will cut out your Caltagirone ceramic shopping instructions and paste them on the dashboard of the rental. I am getting the picture that Selinunte is not one of Sicily's beauty spots. This is admittedly the weak point in the itinerary. I like the idea of staying farther west for the fourth stop but that would make for a long day for us. We will be leaving Modica in the mid-late morning (it would take an act of God to get us out earlier), stopping in Agrigento to see the Valley of the Temples, and continuing on to Selinunte. We might be able to see the ruins at Selinunte that afternoon. Is there some really wonderful place to stay in the Trapani/Castellammare del Golfo area that could inspire us to see the ruins and press on? Otherwise, we could stay at the Villa Sogno (which gets great reviews on TA) and go to the beach (some beach time would be a nice balance), maybe check out Mazara del Vallo, and/or get up to see the salt pans and the salt museum.

galelstorm Aug 10th, 2009 07:00 PM

Bon_voyage- I have been watching and reading your post and all of the wonderful information offered up by everyone. We are doing a similar trip next month, just in the opposite direction. We arrive in Palermo at 8:00 a.m. from Naples, pick up the rental car and head straight to Segesta to see it in the morning light. Then we're off to Erice and Trapani to explore and we check into Villa Sogno that night. The next day we'll hit Sciacca and Porto Paolo and lunch at Da Vittorio. We stay two nights at Villa Diana just outside Agrigento. The next day is open to whatever fancies us, hot springs in Agrigento, beach, etc. The we head inland to Piazza Armerina and Villa Casale and stay in Ragusa Ibla that night at l' Orto sul Tetto and like Ibelgray will eat at Il Duomo for what will probably be our most elegant dinner out in Italy. After that we head to Modica to explore and possibly Noto (after reading Thurdaysd's report I'm not too sure about it). We sleep that night in Ortigia at Aretusa Vacanze and finally head to Catania for our last night at Castello d' Urso Somma. I have definitely written down Ibelgray's rec's on Sappori Perdutti and L'Ancora. Casa Talia sounds absolutely lovely and Ian and Ibelgray's photos prove it. I wish you the best in planning your trip and hope to write a report about ours when we return. This site is additive and everyone is incredibly helpful and willing to offer so much.


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