[Itinerary Review Request]: Portugal for a week with a 9 year old
 

Hi Everyone: We'll be traveling to Portugal in April (On ground from April 13, 2019 (Saturday) to April 20, 2019 (Saturday). Three of us will be together: My daughter (9), my wife and myself (both of us are in our early 40's).

About us:

• History and culture
• Walking around town and soaking the local feel of the place (as an example, we walked around the Latin Quarter of Paris and loved the walk).
• Museums
• Good views and vistas
• All three of us are vegetarians. My daughter and I eat eggs, however. My wife is fine with eggs in pastries etc. She does dislikes the smell of cooked eggs.

Travel itinerary we've come up with so far:

Day 1: Saturday

• Arrive at 8:30 AM from San Francisco.
• Settle into hotel or Airbnb (we're leaning towards Airbnb because I've read Portuguese cuisine is meat and fish heavy).
• Walk around Lisbon and maybe see 1 sight.
• Keep it light since we'll be jetlagged

Day 2: Sunday

• Lisbon sightseeing

Day 3: Monday

• Day trip to Sintra

Day 4: Tuesday

• Lisbon sightseeing

Day 5: Wednesday

• Pick up car from Lisbon airport
• Drive to Obidos. Stop for the medieval town and maybe grab a snack/coffee.
• Obidos to Alcobaca monastery. Have lunch before or after seeing the monastery. I've read that the fabrics there are famous, so maybe buy something?
• Alcobaca to Batalha and see the monastery there.
• Drive to Porto.

Day 6: Thursday

• Porto

Day 7: Friday

• Guimaraes(we debated between this and the national park)

Day 8: Saturday

• Porto to Tomar
• Tomar to Coimbra
• Coimbra to Lisbon airport.
• Our flight is at 2:30 AM on Sunday so we can drop off the car at the airport by evening and get dinner before we check-in.

Questions:

• What feedback do you have on the itinerary?
• Any places we've missed that you would recommend? We thought about Evora but could not fit it in.
• We're missing the southern part of Portugal but I could not fit it in - are we really missing out a lot? Any other recommendations you would make? If we should fit it in, how/what would you recommend we change?
• We're vegetarians: What recommendations do you have for vegetarian food in Portugal?
• We skipped the wine country since we're not too keen on it.
• What are must see places in Lisbon, Porto?
• How is driving in Portugal compared to the US? We both can drive stick shift easily.
• What are some good gifts that are unique (or not unique, but worth picking up) in Portugal?
• We will end up staying only in Lisbon and Porto (that way its logistically easier - less places to check in etc.). What parts of both cities would you recommend we stay in?
• Should we skip a day in Guimaraes and spend the night at Obidos (The Marriott there looks lovely :) )?

Thank you and looking forward to the feedback and suggestions!

Hi Rahulm
It is not so simple for vegetarians, although you will find some offers, so maybe airbnb is a good option..
In Alcobaça you have mainly tablewear (plates, cups, etc) In Caldas da Rainha (on the way) you have interesting ceramics at Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro factory and shop. you can google the website
On your return to Lisbon you have first Coimbra and than Tomar. In Coimbra make sure you visit the University Library. Since you are travelling with your daugther visit the Portugal dos Pequenito, which is a park devoted to portuguese architecture and culture, made for children you can find the website.
Tomar is a lovely small town where you can spend your last night. It is aprox. 1h50 to the airport, you can take a quick look at the Convent of Christ before you leave..
Hope this helps...

Thanks a lot, semlimite. The park sounds great and I'm sure my daughter (and us!) will love it. It seems a short walk from the library. We'll do this on the last day on our way back from Porto.

• Do you have any recommendations on which neighbourhood in Lisbon to stay?
• Likewise for Porto

Thank you!

Glad it was usefful. In Lisbon I would recomend somewhere in downtown as it is close to most places and you have the subway to take you anywhere else. Chiado area is also nice to stay in.
In Porto I would stay in Ribeira area or Aliados area (they are quite close from eachother). You should find a place close to a public carpark where you can leave the car while in Porto.
An important tip, when you are traveling from one city to the other, avoid park in the street with a rented car with lugage. try to park in a private car parking (in a hotel for ie). This is valid anywhere (at least in Europe...) better be on the safe side.
In Lisbon go with your daughter to Lisbon Story Center plus the Rua Augusta arch. Lisbon Story Center takes 60 minutes, it is located in the main square Terreiro do Paço, and is an interesting technological museum about Lisbon from day 1 till nowadays.
In Porto, take the "Funicular dos Guindães" for the experience and the views, the cable car in Gaia, visit one of the Port wine lodges in Gaia and visit the Church of S, Francisco (Ribeir) and for your daughter the World of Discoveries - about the Portuguese sea expansion.
You don'ta have that much time in Porto I would not recomend you go to Gerês (I imagine that is the National Park you are reffering) because it is a long drive, if you really want to see the park. I would stay in Porto to walk around and enjoy the city... but if you are the kind of traveller that want to see the most, I would rather go to Guimarães.
As you might know I'm portuguese and live in Lisbon, so I'm glad to help :)

Thank you again!
A few more follow up questions:

• Lisbon: How is the Baxia area?
• Lisbon: How is the area around:
  R. da Bombarda and R Manuel Soares Guedes
  . Is that too out of the way. There is an AirBnb that seems to have amazing views.
• Porto: I was thinking of picking a Airbnb that has parking included.
• Guimaraes: I am still on the fence on this. As you suggested, we could skip this and spend an additional day in Porto. However, my daughter, who is 9, is really into castles and stories these days and the reason to do the day trip was largely for her to have fun.

To your point, we're not slash and burn tourists. We prefer taking the time and enjoying the place. As an example: We spent 2 weeks in Paris last year and loved EVERY bit of it. My challenge is: Everything I'm reading about Portugal right now makes us want to go to each place and can't seem to decide what to skip so we can slow down a bit. Your advice would be helpful :)

Your advice is awesome and really helping a lot! Thanks so much again!

Is your daughter a Harry Potter fan? If so, be sure to look in on the Livraria Lello in Porto. J. K. Rowling lived in Porto and while there developed her ideas for the Harry Potter series and began work on her first book. It is said that this bookstore was the inspiration for the grand staircase at Hogwarts as well as Flourish and Blotts.

https://www.travelblissnow.com/porto...-harry-potter/

i think its a good itinerary for a week. In a week agree with you that it would be difficult to add Evora. Your day 5 looks very busy. Try and be flexible. Obidos is a must and do so earlier in the day before it gets very busy. Keep an eye on the time - you may have to skip Bathala or Alcobaca to get to Porto at a reasonable hour. Day 8 - likewise Coimbra first and then Tomar (which we loved) but it will be a long day.
With regards to your specific qns - driving is easy. The roads are excellent. We had no problems renting an automatic (we don't drive stick).
I would not overnight in Obidos (not worth using up a whole day in Obidos).
Regarding the vegetarian issue - I would go to an Italian restaurant - they can always make the pasta w/o meat. Menus in general are seafood heavy but really excellent food if you eat fish/shrimp etc.

Enjoy your trip.

Hi Rahulm
I cannot read the question you wrote after the map, pls cut the map and resend.
It is true, you have to visit the Bookshop Lello, even if your daughter doesnt like Harry Potter (J.K. Rowling got inspired by the elegant stairecases of the bookshop).
If your daughter likes history, she will like Lisbon Story Center and World of Discoveries. Some other points not to miss for her:
Lisbon - the Castle - inside the castle and the small streets once you enter the first gate; Belém Area, of course, funny also to take the "Elevador da Bica", which is a funicular that takes you up the hill.
Sintra - it is very crowded and all palaces are beautifull. Pena palace is a fairy tale Palace and it is already beautiful to climb until the palace and enjoy the views, if there is a big line to enter the building. Moorish Castle (only walls), Palácio Real, in the city centre, beautifull inside, and outside too, quite unique, Convento dos Capuchos, a very small convent in the middle of the forest, not so crowded and very unique also, with very small doors and rooms. Regaleira is very also very popular, and Monserrate has beautiful gardens and park and a beautifull small palace, without furniture.
Obidos, of course,
I think that by the time you get to Porto she has seen plenty of history sites and don't mind missing Guimarães..:)

Just saw now that it is in the area of Graça, great views but a little out of the way...far from the subway...

Thank you! Is downtown Lisbon called Baixa? What about staying in the Alfama area? What would you recommend between the two?

If your daughter likes taking pictures, she might enjoy the Family Photo Challenge with Lisbon Photo. It's like a scavenger hunt and a really fun way to tour the city. The guide is excellent.

Baixa is the same as downtown. Alfama is lovelly, but not as central. As you have a short stay I imagine you want to stay in a place where it is easy to move around, as Baixa or Downtown

Thank you so much everyone! I'm going to rework the itinerary and things to do this weekend and get back to you for feedback (last few days have been too busy at work so was unable to do anything).

Whilst planning today, I realized we may not be able to do Airbnb in Lisbon. We land at 8:30 AM and most places are not going to allow us to check in before 4 PM which is tad late. Would love recommendations on some good boutique hotels. Thank you!

So, I spent a good part of the evening looking for hotels and most of the boutique hotels (that we liked) are booked for our dates. I was eyeing the Intercontinental. I see its tad farther up north, but a 15 min train ride should get us closer to Baixa. Is it really that farther out? How is the neighbourhood where the Intercontinental is? Thanks again!

Hi
You mean the Intercontinental at Rua Castilho? It is in a good area, but you have to climb a bit to get back to the hotel from the subway. As for boutique hotel, try Lisboa Plaza, close to Av. da Liberdade. It is a classic hotel, with tradtional portuguese furniture. I think it feels a lot like home... You cannot book the night before at Airbnb, so that you can check-in early morning?

Thanks semlimite . I looked at Lisboa Plaza and have sent them an inquiry to make sure they would have enough bed space for three of us. I also found Hotel da Baixa - how is that area and neighbourhood? Would you recommend it? We don't care about bars (and the noise they come with) - just want to make sure Hotel da Baixa is not surrounded by too much of it.

mnag :

• Thanks a lot for the tip on Livraria Lello. My daughter will love it (and I an unashamed to admit, so will we).
• " Keep an eye on the time - you may have to skip Bathala or Alcobaca to get to Porto at a reasonable hour." - If you absolutely need to see only one, which one would you do?
• Thanks for the Italian restaurant tip, I have a feeling that is what we'll end up doing a lot and throw in 1-2 Indian dinners which can change the pace a bit.
• What do you recommend for breakfast? Are eggs and oatmeal easily available in cafe's like in the US?

semlimite

• The castle that you mention in Lisbon: Is that "Castelo de Sao Jorge"?
• Making a list of all your suggestions to plan the days. Super excited!
• There seem to be more things than one can handle in a day in Sintra: What are absolute must do's?
• Other places: Jerónimos Monastery (worth the visit)?
• Is it safe to say that when we visit Castelo de S. Jorge, we can walk around a bit and get a feel for Alfama? Are there other things you'd recommend in Alfama?
• Is the Mouraria neighbourhood worth a visit?
• What do you think of Elevador de Santa Justa

tbn The family photo challenge looks great! Is the price inclusive of kids + adults who follow the kid? Do you know how it works?


I've made a list of all the places to see (too many, so I need to cut a bit) I've yet to compile a list of museums. Any recommendations? (So far I only have Lisbon story center). I'll go through the Fodors guide for some inspiration tonight as well.

Once again, y'all are so awesome with all the recommendations. Thank you!

Hi Rahulm

• The castle is Catelo de S. Jorge
• Must do in Sintra - get early (or late) to Pena Palace (I guess they open at 10:00, but you should check. Even if you don't enter the palace is wroth a visit from the outside. as well as the romantic park that surround it. This was the first romantic palace in Europe and inspired the ones in Bavaria, not the other way around, although the king who build it was german (he was the queen's husban....(this one was built 25 years before); the city of Sintra is a must. other option would be the Royal city palace of Sintra or the Convento dos Capuchos (less visited, but quite unique) take a look at www.parquesdesintra.pt
• Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. If you don't have a guide you will have a long line... not sure if the line is only for the cloisters or if it is also for the church. Both cloisters and church are very beautiful, at least try to see the church. From my experience as a tourist the best time to see important atractions is in the afternoon, close to closing time...the majority of the groups go in the moring. Belém Tower, see it only from the outside.
• When you visit the castle you can visit Mouraria or Alfama, as both are close to the castle, but in oposite directions. If you have to choose 1, I'll go for Alfama. Alfama is only to start in Largo das Portas do Sol and take the stairs down, and allways walk down though stairways and narrow streets till you get to the street near the river.
• Elevador de Santa Justa is very nice, but a long line to take it. You can see it from outside. the views on top are great but there are many other places in Lisbon with great views as we have 7 hills...
• Museums, I would go for the ones that are more unique: Azulejo, although you will see azulejos in every street and most of the churches and old houses, Gulbenkian museum, Orient Museum (although very specific (it shows the connections between Portugal and India, Japan and China). How our arrival there influenced art and way of life in both ways; Museu dos Coches, carriage museum, considerer the best collection in the world, with impressive carriages from different eras. An if you want something lighter for your daugther, there is also the Doll Hospital (also a museum) The Doll Hospital

Hope I've helped...

Quick update:

We made it to Portugal!

We spent 4 days in Lisbon. Saw the Castelo the S. Jose, Belem, Baixa and made a day trip to Sintra (saw the Moorish castle, Pena palace, National palace (from outside only) and the Quinta the Regaleira. I managed to mildly sprain my ankle so got to check out a hospital as well (pro tip: They don't seem touristy, but made up in fast service). Loved EVERYTHING we saw.

Yesterday, we rented a car and drove from Lisbon to Porto; stopping at Obidos, Alcobaca and Bathala on the way. So much history and SO amazing. My daughter was dead tired but she enjoyed each place and we had to drag her out of places!

Arrived Porto last night. Heading out to walk around the city today and will do more "sights" tomorrow.

Food has not really been a problem. we've been able to find plenty of vegetarian restaurants.

People here have been so friendly and welcoming.

Thank you for all the advice - it has helped tremendously! I'll post more in detail once we have some breathing room

That is great Rahulm! Glad I could help in anyway.

Last update on our trip:
We spent two days in Porto. The first day we walked around the Sao Bento area looking at the various churches (mostly from the outside). My leg was hurting a bit so we did not climb the tower. Since it was easter weekend there were SO MANY visitors it was impossible to navigate the streets! We did walk by Flourish and Blotts but did not go inside since there was a two hour wait. We did take an Azulejos making class that was awesome and one of the highlights of our trip!
On the second day we walked around Ribeira and then walked across the bridge to Gaia which has amazing views of Porto.
Drove back to Lisbon on the last day, stopping by University of Coimbra and Tomar on the way - both extremely well worth it.

Portugal is such a beautiful country. We absolutely fell in love. The people are so nice, welcoming and willing to help. At the airport, my daughter was unwilling to board the flight, just pulled my hand and said lets just go back and put me in a school here!

Overall THANK YOU SO MUCH everyone, especially, semlimite for all the advice and help.