wanderjoy

I really have appreciated all of the trip reports and knowledge on this forum, so thank you! My husband and I are planning a 16 day trip to Turkey mid to late May. We are in our mid-30's and have traveled to about 30 countries, mostly before our kiddos (both under the age of 6) were born. Since we don't travel abroad much anymore, we want to make the most of our trip (kids are staying with grandparents). I know our trip may look rushed, but we're trying to do the best we can with the time we have. We're fairly active and although we enjoy beautiful beaches, we aren't the type that want to lay out on the beach for more than an hour (do activities, hike, etc., yes).

Our basic itinerary is as follows (see "general"). We've booked internal flights and two rental cars. I'm asking for your specific thoughts/recommendations on the Mediterranean portion. We have a lot of ruins on our tentative itinerary, and given what else we're doing, are wondering if we will be "ruined out" - please help us pick! There is so much to do and see, and 1) we want to be realistic with our time and 2) we'd like some "diversity" in what we do. We are interested in visiting ruins, but we're not experts (so we won't realize the nuisances other than what we've read in our guidebooks). Please see the "Coast help" section below. What recommendations do you have (specifically for ruins, but otherwise is welcome), and what do you think we can skip? Is there any place you'd recommend along our route that we should visit that we aren't considering? Many, many thanks for your feedback!

GENERAL
-Fly into IST, fly to Kayseri
-3 full days in Cappadocia (with rental car)
-Fly to Dalaman, pick up 2nd rental car
-4 full days on Turquoise Coast
-Pamukkale and Aphrodisias
-Selcuk and Ephesus
-Drop off 2nd rental car at Izmir
-Fly to Istanbul, where we spend 3 full days

COAST HELP
1. Day 1
-AM flight to Dalaman
-Drive to Fethiye
-Oludeniz
-Kayakoy?
-Night in Fethiye

2. Day 2
-Hike: Faralya, Butterfly Valley, and Kabak
-Night in Fethiye

3. Day 3
-Tlos? Pinara? Xanthos? Letoon? (Not sure if we should visit any of these given the other ruins we're visiting - or - if one, which one)
-Saklikent Gorge
-Patara
-Arrive in Kas PM, overnight

4. Day 4
-Kayak to Kekova and Kalekoy
-Night in Kas

5. Day 5
-Myra
-Arykanda?
-Arrive in Pamukkale in PM, overnight

kja

FWIW, I never got "ruined out" while in Turkey -- and I saw a LOT of ruins! YMMV.

I trust you release that 3 days is VERY little for Istanbul. You would do well to think through your priorities in advance.

I didn't see many of the places you plan to visit on the coast. I did visit Patara, and while the beach was very pretty, it gets VERY windy there -- enough that the sand bothered my eyes. I spent less than an hour, counting time for a coffee in a sheltered cafe. I did NOT see any of the ruins there, which I believe are quite spread out. So take my comments with a grain of salt!

I visited Myra both Arykanda and was glad I did. They seemed sufficiently different to me to justify seeing both, and the views from Arykanda were wonderful. That could make for a long day though -- I spent about 1 hour at Myra and about 2.5 hours at Arykanda, and would not call either visit particularly leisurely.

Turkey is a wonderful destination, and mid- to late May is a great time to see it!

Doh

I apologize if this isn't helpful, but one of the most memorable things we did in Turkey (or anywhere) was take a "blue cruise" on a gulet-- not sure if that really fits with the rest of your itinerary or interests but thought I'd mention it.

tower

Wanderjoy:

Perhaps these quick pix of Turkey's hinterland will give you an idea or two. I call it "familiarization". I'll also include Istanbul in the next bunch. You're in for an adventure! Enjoy!

https://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/ScenesOfTurkey

tower

https://picasaweb.google.com/stuartt...nesOfIstanbul#

Sassafrass

Doh,
Did you do any kind of trip report on your "blue cruise"?
If not, can I hi-jack this thread with a few questions? When did you go, time of year, etc.? What company? How fit do you need to be?

This has been on my "bucket list" for years, but now we are getting older and really slowing down. I have eliminated things like Machu Pichu from my dream sheet, but we still travel by train a lot and carry and lift all our own luggage, and walk all over cities, etc. Based on that, do you think we could do the gulet trip? Thanks.

trtourorganizer

Hi there,
You already have a nice itinerary planning. I would like to make to suggestions only. There is not an early morning flight from cappadocia to dalaman. You have to check flights over istanbul from Kayseri and nevsehir airports which are closer to cappadocia. I recommend an evening flight in the end of the activities in Cappadocia over istanbul to the coast.

alternatively, Turkish air operates direct flights from Nevsehir to Antalya. if you take that flights, you will have to reverse your itinerary and start from Antalya. with this, you can add Olympos, Chimera and a walk to Phaselis as well. Then up to Myra and the rest...

If you are able to fit those ancient cities to your time frame, do! it is better to be disappointed than regretful. You can start from the most popular ones tough, that means there is a thing attracting that much of tourists. for example, Letton saklikent Patara and arrive at the hotel. While in Pamukkale, visit Laodicea nearby and have lunch before aphrodisias so you dont sleep on the wheel to Ephesus

Most museums are open around 8:30 and if your are the first to enter, you beat crowds in popular sites like Ephesus and Pamukkale. After lunch for Aphrodisias.

happy travels,
turkeytourorganizer

geetika

We did Istanbul, Pamukkale and Afrodisias before getting to Antalya a couple of years back and DH absolutely refused to go to Aspendos, Perge and Side, claimed that one amphiteather looked just another, he'd had enough of ruins! Even last June when we were in the Aegean and Turkey again I had to carefully plan our trips keeping him in mind, we cut out Akotiri in Santorini, much though I regretted it. So it depends on the individual, you'll know best how much of ruins you can take.

We didn't do it but the gullet/blue cruise is said to be lovely, will make a relaxing break from sightseeing, you can even do just a day cruise if you don't have much time. That's on my wishlist for our nest visit to Turkey...

HappyTrvlr

The ruins at Patara were a highlight for us. You can sit in the newly restored theater where the Lycian League was founded.
We loved Fethiye. We enjoyed having lunch at the fish market. You pick out your fish and it is delivered to whichever of the surrounding restaurants you wish to dine in. They cook it for you and offer many other wonderful side dishes too.

MinnBeef

Based on your itinerary, you will only have the 3 days in Cappadocia before arriving on the T. coast, so I wouldn't think you'd be "ruined out" at that point, but that's just my take.

General comment--agree with kja, 3 days is not enough for Istanbul. Have been there twice and, along with Paris, it's my favorite city in the world. I would add at least one extra day there to do it justice.

I spent 5 days on the T. coast and visited a # of the locations you've highlighted. My favorite of the bunch was hiking the Saklikent Gorge. Beautiful scenery and photo opportunities. I would definitely prioritize it. I spent an afternoon on Oludeniz beach. That was towards the end of my trip and so, while I'm not a huge beach guy, it was the right time in my trip to relax in the sun for a few hours. Finally, I also visited Kayakoy and found it an interesting way to spend a few hours. Of the 3 locations I mentioned, it would have been my #3 of 3 but then again, I had 5 days based in Fethiye. By the way, there are also some pretty interesting cave ruins above Fethiye town that are worth at least observing on a walk around town, if not actually visiting.

Doh

Sassafrass--

Don't want to hijack, but then I don't have too much to add (it was about 12 years ago and no trip report, sorry).

Our trip was actually out of Bodrum. I don't remember what company we used (a friend living in Istanbul at the time may have picked it). It was early October and I think that was close to the end of the season but the weather was great for us.

As I recall it was not strenuous at all, but there's a certain amount of agility required for getting on/off a boat and moving around (up/down) the boat. I would think if you are traveling by train regularly you should be fine (but given how long it's been you probably shouldn't rely too heavily on my rose colored memory).

best wishes for good travels!

PJTravels

I've been chiding myself for being so behind on my trip reports, and then I saw your post... We spent 6 weeks in Turkey 1 1/2 years ago, so hopefully my input is still timely. We did a mix of beach, hiking, touring ruins and generally driving a long slow loop west from Antalya along the coast, bookending the trip in Istanbul with a flight to Cappadocia after Ephesus. Hopefully this will offer opinions about your itinerary, as opposed to being a full trip report.

We visited many ruins - small, large, well-known and off the beaten path. Some of the most interesting to us were the ones a bit off the main path which were smaller, and for the most part we had them to ourselves. Letoon was the only one that was disappointing to us. We had a great morning at Pinara which is beautifully sited. The museum at Aphrodisias is astounding. Another favorite was Priene. The early morning light at Hieropolis, above Pammukale, was stunning and our visit there made up for the scene that is the travertines of Pammukale. If being surrounded by 100s of people taking multiple poses of scantily clad bodies against calcified walls is your idea of a good time that is Pammukale! Our overnight there is the only one of 6 weeks of travel that I could have cut out.

You might consider staying in Faralya, as opposed to Fethiye or Oludeniz, in order to spend a lovely day hiking over to Kabak beach. Above the beach there is a hotel/restaurant called the Olive Garden which was a great place for an al fresco lunch. We hiked to the beach, spent about an hour in the water, walked back to the Olive Garden for lunch, and then took a little bus back to Faralya. If you prefer nightlife, stay in Oludeniz and take the little bus to Faralya to begin the hike. The hike down the cliff from Faralya to Butterfly Valley looked terrifying to me. There is a boat you can take from Oludeniz. If you want to treat yourself to a little holiday from your holiday look into staying at Karia Bel outside of Bozburun, although booking a gullet will probably have the same effect. I will say that we never once saw a gullet under sail. They all motored in and out of the beaches where we stayed.

If you go like crazy you will be able to see the top attractions of Istanbul in 3 days, but you might feel short changed. We were there 3 nights at the beginning and 5 at the end.

Of all the wonderful trips I have had Turkey is my favorite. It was the perfect combination of lovely people, fabulous food, amazing sights and culture.

PJTravels

I forgot to mention what worked for us for our visit to Ephesus. Because we were spending the night nearby, we didn't begin our visit until about 3:30 in the afternoon, starting at the south entrance. By that time, while still crowded, it was not mobbed. We worked our way through the site and then circled back to the Terraced Houses which requires a separate ticket. It turned out that we were the last people to enter. Toward the end of our time we realized that it was just us and the guard. Hopefully you will be as lucky!

wanderjoy

I appreciate all of you taking the time to post very much! Thanks for all of your insights on a variety of topics.

I realize that 3 full days in Istanbul is very little. We have a long wish list for next time – including time in Istanbul and a blue cruise.

A few questions re: our Fethiye/Kas area itinerary, Days 2 and 3. We were originally thinking:

Day 2:
-Hike: Faralya, Butterfly Valley, and Kabak
-Night in Fethiye (2 of 2)

Day 3
-Tlos? Pinara? Xanthos? Letoon? (Not sure if we should visit any of these given the other ruins we're visiting - or - if one, which one)
-Saklikent Gorge
-Patara
-Arrive in Kas PM, overnight
------------------------------------------------------------
Questions:

DAY 2

1. We have a manual compact rental car – “Fiat Linea Diesel or similar” according to Budget. Any thoughts about driving it from Oludeniz to Faralya or even to Kabak? One of our guidebooks says you need a “high suspension vehicle” to make that drive. We can take a dolmus if needed, but like the convenience of being able to come and go when we please.

2. We thought about staying in Faralya or Kabak the night of Day 2, instead of returning to Fethiye, but the downside would be a later start to Day 3, as we’ll have to head north anyway to start a packed day (see next question). Any thoughts of doing a second night in Fethiye vs. a night in Faralya or Kabak? If we stay in Kabak, can we drive our rental car to Kabak?

DAY 3

3. Our current thinking is we’ll make Saklikent Gorge (no tour) and Patara our priorities that day, and probably skip Tlos or Xanthos due to lack of time (unless you think we will have time for one of these). We may even stop in Kaputas on the way to Kas, if we have time.

That would mean the ruins we visit in this area would be Patara, Kekova, Kalekoy, Myra, and Arykanda (and we’ll go to Ephesus, Hieropolis, and Aphrodisias later). Are we missing out by skipping Tlos or Xanthos (we’d only do one of these if you all would recommend one)?

4. We’ll be at Saklikent Gorge on May 22. Not sure what the water level would be. I’ve read some postings that it’s a bad idea to bring your camera because you’re in the water chest-level. My husband is 5 foot 7 and I’m 5 feet. Do you think it is “safe” to bring a camera this time of year with the water level (assuming we put it in zip lock bags or something)?

5. Should we hire one of the guides when we get there to help us navigate through the rough spots (because I’m short and also if we have the camera). We are fine to spring for someone, but generally prefer to be more independent.

Thanks very much in advance.

HappyTrvlr

Dhay 3. Skip Letoon.

PJTravels

1. We drove a compact rental to Faralya, hiked to Kabak beach and then caught a dolmus back to Faralya. The road was paved the whole way. The reference to needing a high clearance vehicle may be in regards to driving all the way down to the beach. That road was a rutted dirt road that was difficult to even walk on, but the road into Kabak is paved. If you decide to stay in Kabak, ask the hotel about access.

2. As I recall, it took less than an hour to drive from Fethiye to Faralya. We preferred Faralya to Fethiye, but one is a spot on the road above the sea and the other is a harbor town of some size. Really depends on your preference, but if the main issue is to get an early start on Day 3, it would save you the 30k drive.

Note: We may have missed it, but the turn-off from Oludeniz to Faralya was not marked. We had to ask for directions. Fortunately, Oludeniz is not that big.

MinnBeef

Not sure what Saklikent's water level is like in the spring but it probably is higher than when I was there in late summer. I'm between your height and your husband's, so a short guy also. I had my camera in a zip bag, then in my backpack. I simply lifted my backpack above my head as I waded through the river. My greater concern was dropping the camera in running water along the route as the stream runs pretty much the entire way of the hike and at times, you must climb over slippery rocks on the trail. In the end, I hiked roughly 60-90 minutes in, and then of course back for a total of about 2 1/2 hours hiking. What I would do would be to bring a second camera card and swap that one out for your primary card that day of your hike. I would think your husband should be able to keep your packs above his head wading through the stream, and then just be careful hiking through the gorge. But I loved Saklikent-it was probably my favorite thing on the T. coast.

otherchelebi

1. Fiat Linea Diesel has low ground clearance and is rather under-powered. Prefer a Renault or Ford if you have a choice.

2.Night at Fethiye will give you options to walk around and choices of good watering holes and eateries. You can find Fethiye as romantic as Faralya or Kabak after visiting any of those locations, especially if you're staying at Ece or similar with a view.

3. Tlos will be on your way to Saklikent. Xanthos would require that you backtrack. I prefer Tlos but others have liked Xanthos more.
Patara will give you ruins and beach so you can give a miss to kaputas.

4. It always helps to protect your camera, AND yourself. We have had a very wet Winter this year, so the water is bound to be high and rushing fast.

5. You will definitely need a guide for the canyon in the Spring. And, if he tells you that you go only half way or that you should return after a certain distance you should do what he says. There were some unfortunate accidents in the past years with people who had no guides.

Other ideas :

- Letoon requires a longish drive from Xanthos and has a very private large beach with noone in sight not too far away. You will not have time for it even if Leto's eternal frogs attract you.

- Fethiye has a nice small central district called "Passpatur" where you will get very good "Pide", somewhat like a pizza without the sauce.

- Visit Villa Rhapsody at Kayakoy and say Hi to my friends if you find interesting the deserted large Greek village which was the subject of a good but sad popular novel.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-2010-trip.cfm

tower

OC..hijacking..how the he11 are you..The Turkish George Clooney!!

otherchelebi

Tower, nice to see you are in form. DW soon to be in Chicago for 7 weeks but I have to stay home to keep the barbarians and or the crusaders away.

See you further at my various threads.