Book your visit to the Doge's Palace and the Basilica ahead of time. The Biennale will be on when you will be there, so check the Biennale website for art exhibits.

The cruise ship tourists and there are many will pack the areas around San Marco, Basilica Doge's Palace and the Rialto Bridge, but often do not venture further, so other than those areas you wont be contending with as many crowds, and September is not as bad as the summer.

If you find that don't feel like a dinner out, you don't have to cook, you can always buy some wine, and various things at the supermarkets, grocers or the Rialto market.. fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, antipasti meats, salads, bread, and have a light meal.

lots of places to have a gelato or a pastry to keep you going too.

You can probably fit in some time for a visit to the old Ghetto. However, it you want to take a tour of some of the synagogues, will have to climb stairs.

Murano has some demonstrations of glass blowing, but its really about selling to visitors at the factory show rooms. Don't bother with any places that want to charge an admission to glass blowing.

There may be some art pieces on display and for sale as well as chandeliers in the larger factories, otherwise its a lot of small shops selling all sorts of glass.. lots of jewelry and other things, and beware not all glass you see in Venice is made in Italy. Same goes for some of the more modest leather shops, though there are shops that sell leather gloves made in Italy.

Murano would be my choice over Torcello any day, but for me, no trip to Venice is complete without a glass necklace or two. I have never watched glass blowing but the glass museum on Murano is very good and it sounds as if you like glass.

What no one has said is that the steps on canal bridges are not like climbing stairs, they are usually shallower and not difficult if you get into a good rhythm.

The important question about Venetian food is whether you like fish. If so, you will be in heaven.

lol, tarquin, I went to the Murano glass museum with some friends and was bored rigid!

Chris - the walk from the little harbour to the centre of Torcello is not very exciting, it's true, but it's nice and flat, so those knees can have a bit of a rest. There are several trattoria en route too, besides the famous locanda; we had a nice and reasonably priced lunch at the one named after Attila the Hun! We had an apartment for a week and fell into the habit of eating out for lunch [to rest our tired feet as much as anything] and then for supper buying some cold meats or a ready cooked dish from a rostecceria or deli, or on one occasion take away pizza.

Besides fish there are some good meat dishes in Venice - the liver and onions, roast meats with polenta - can all be very good.

We really enjoyed a visit to the Ghetto
If you go to the Museo Ebraico in Campo del Ghetto
you can get a guided tour of three synagogues. They are behind solid wooden doors in very nondescript looking buildings, you'd never guess that they were there.

tarquin-My husband loves fish. I like fish too but the mild tasting kind. In Greece we bought our fish by weight. Is that how they do it in Venice?

Dayle-Will read your trip report tomorrow. Tired today after making dozens of pierogi for family Xmas Eve dinner!

DJVMM-I wouldn't want to slow the tour down. That's why we normally don't book any tours. We like to go at our own pace. I'll have to see how I feel. How far ahead do you need to book this tour?

Miss Prism, maxima-The Jewish Ghetto with synagogues tour sounds nice if we have the time. Thanks for the info.

annhig-Really hoping to make it to all 3 lagoon islands. Read your east Germany report today as I have a cousin who married a German gal he met while serving in the military. They live in Germany but I think it's more near Munich. I'll probably never get to Germany so I visit there by reading reports like yours. Thanks.

NYCFoodSnob-The "banter" doesn't bother me at all. Right now my knees are in tip top shape-knock on wood! I've been doing exercises at the gym designed to strengthen them along the lines of what the PT did with me after my surgeries.

I took the Secrets Itineraries walking tour early last month and while there was a fair bit of climbing, it was mostly in two concentrated bits and no one on my tour had any problems. I can walk forever but am not great on climbs (my problem is up, not down) but I had no problems at all. Our guide was very good about not rushing folks.

It is a pretty long tour but really great because of the small group size. we only had 11 and I think the limit is 12.

thanks, chris - honestly I would try to get to Germany if you can especially as you have family that you could go and visit. I really love going there, as you can probably tell.

We took the Secret Itineraries tour a few years ago, and I would be more worried about people who have claustrophobia than those with mobility issues unless they were severe. What I liked about it was that once the tour proper was over, you had as much time as you liked in the rest of the palace - I can't get enough of that wonderful massive ballroom! there are loos and a cafe so you can have a rest after the tour proper before you see the rest.

regarding the islands, a very nice thing to do is to have lunch either on Torcello or Burano - so try to time your trip to allow that. you should have plenty of time to do all three, but on the way to the boat stop on the Fontamente nuova, do take time to drop into the church of the Jesuiti just round the corner - the marble curtains and swags are absolutely jaw-dropping. [it only opens in the mornings so you can't do it on the way back].

Just some random ideas. I'm going to ignore all knee references. You'll get that figured out for yourself, I'm sure.

Torcello was a quaint little bore for me. My advice: If you can fit it into your day of visiting the out islands, go ahead. Otherwise, don't make it a priority.

Doges Secret Itnerary tour: It's worth it. Good guides. Fair amount of steps. After the tour, you can explore the rest of the palace on your own. Book ASAP to get the day and time you want. Recommend going first thing in the a.m.

We like Burano. You can wander around the little neighborhoods and have lunch. Murano is OK. Since you have an interest in glass blowing, see one of the factory exhibits but resist the high-pressure sales tactics.

You mention taking the Alilaguna to "the city center." But right now, you don't know where your apartment is going to be. Be aware that it could be a long hike (with luggage) to your apartment from the Alilaguna stop, over bridges and through crowded streets. After you book an apartment, you'll want to look at a map and see its location in relation to the Alilaguna stop. You may want to consider investing in motor-boat transport.

"Vaporetto tour down the Grand Canal"? Does the mean just riding the vaporetto the length of the GC? OK. Not the worst idea, but don't get the idea that the vap is some magical method of transport. It's a utilitarian, crowded bus on water. Taking it late at night is probably best for just relaxing and looking.

100 euros a day for light eaters (and who can do breakfast in an apartment) should be OK, if you stay away from places close to St. Mark's and other tourist havens. You may end up spending a bit more. (I always add 20% to what I think I'm going to spend.)

Jewish Ghetto: Yes. You'll think you're in another world.

Alle Testiere was our favorite restaurant when we were in Venice 10 years ago. Tiny place with two seatings and great food -- especially the fish.

To save your knees and energy, consider getting a multi day Vaporetto Pass: we found it was worth every cent! We used it several times each day. We stayed in Dorsoduro, away from the maddening San Marco and Rialto crowds. We loved our apartment and a bonus was that there was only one bridge over which to carry our luggage from the vaporetto stop :) We walked a lot but didn't hesitate to use the vaporetto (and the traghetto's) whenever we needed a break.

The Doge's Palace, itself, not the Secret Itineraries tour, seemed more stair intense to me. But the Tour and the Palace are both so fabulous that I would not miss either.

We enjoyed stopping in whatever bar suited our fancy and snacking on cicchetti (appetizers). Just point at what appeals to you. Tasty and relatively inexpensive and oh so Venetian! Do try a spritz-so refresing.

We also loved Alle Testiere, it was our big splurge! We loved Burano, shopped and walked around Murano but missed Torcello. Definitely enjoyed our day on the islands.

I wrote about our May 2014 trip on my "blog" if you feel like perusing it (herewegoagain-italy.blogspot.com)

<i><font color=#555555>"To save your knees and energy, consider getting a multi day Vaporetto Pass"</font></i>

The <i>vaporetti</i> are a great way to see life from the water, however, they don't always conserve knees and energy if you're stuck standing on a long ride with nothing to hold on to.

Many boats don't offer outdoor seating. If you want one of those boats, you can waste a lot of time waiting for one. On boats that offer outdoor seating, one has to be vigilant to secure a seat, or ride very late at night or early morning and endure the cold.

The public boats are insanely busy these days, at all hours, with the help of cruise ship visitors. If you want a view from outside, you often have to stand near the exits, and they're always packed with people, with nothing but each other to hold on to. If you choose to stand in this area, you will constantly have to move around to let passengers on and off, many with luggage. There's very limited space in the outdoor sections of each boat.

Most available seats are in the enclosed portion of the boat, where the ventilation is often not good, and the view is restricted by what you can see outside a window. It's far from the glamorous ride that many on the internet like to promote.

vincenzo32951 and NYCFood Snob-I kinda want to just ride the vaporetto the length of the Grand Canal. Plan is to get on at Piazzale Roma stop. While in Bangkok we braved the orange flag local boat and did the same kind of ride. It was very crowded (think sardines in a can) but after awhile we were able to sit down. Vaporetto pass sounds like it may work for us although my husband loves to walk.
The 100 euros was just for dinner each day with 1 splurge dinner. There will be days around lunch time when we stop for drinks, snacks but I've budgeted for that.

Uma-I already had noted that restaurant. It's near the Rialto Bridge??

nola-I am planning to do the tour and spend time after in the Doge's Palace. Have read your blog-great job BTW. Your apt. sounded nice but we really don't need a 2 BR and after my Paris apt. splurge going to try to be more frugal.;)

We have spent a little while in Venice, and I wrote booring trip reports. You would fing them if you click on my user name.

Torcello is worth a visit, but maybe that is just us. We have visited there three times, in the middle of Winter and height of summer, different experiences each time.

Venicekayak.com is a different way to see Venice.

Peter-I read your most recent report April 2014. I enjoyed it very much. Kayaking would indeed be something up my husband's alley but, alas, not mine. I am not a water sprite (can just barely swim) and your report of dodging the cruise liners, vaps, etc. told me that this is an adventure left to better men and women-I'm not one of them! It would be a most amazing way to travel down the canals and I wish I had the fortitude to try it.

I just got back from 3 nights in Venice at the beginning of October and rode vaporetto a LOT. I think you should get a multiday pass -- you will likely ride it more than you think. I rode at least 15 times and only had to stand once and then only part of the journey.

I just got back from Venice and if you want to you can read that part of my own trip report.

As to that "high tide" a certain individual mentioned, be aware that they generally occur later in the year than you are going to be there.

When we were in the city we walked everywhere for the most part and Venice is much smaller by foot than a lot of people seem to realize. I am not in any way saying you shouldn't do the boat thing and in fact I think you should. The boats can be jammed with passengers so be prepared for that eventuality. The stairs will come when you are walking and having to cross over the various canals. With the exception of some of the higher bridges such as the Rialto and the Accademia, as just two examples, they aren't THAT high. And unless you just absolutely positively HAVE to cross on the Rialto I wouldn't bother.

As to your museum-heavy day, be aware that the Accademia alone is crammed with a LOT of what many would call "religious" art and you could easily spend hours and hours there but you can also get "museum overload" pretty fast so prepare mentally.

As to San Marco, yes, going inside the various major structures is important IMO but if you also want to see a different side of the place I would suggest you go there after dark or at dusk at least.

<i><font color=#555555>"As to that "high tide" a certain individual mentioned, be aware that they generally occur later in the year than you are going to be there."</font></i>

If the "certain individual" is me, my mention of Acqua Alta had nothing to do with the "season" of flooding. Even though high tide can happen at any time of the year, I'm a serial visitor to Venice, so I know that November is typically the month of concern. However, that is changing, and Venetians are seeing serious floods as early as mid-October.

I also know that the awful effects of flooding last long after the "season" has come and gone. If the vacation apartment you rent isn't cared for on an hour-by-hour basis, the disgusting flood water can sit in your ground floor apartment for hours, even days, and when the water finally recedes or evaporates, the crud in the water and many of the living things will remain in the apartment until it gets cleaned. One must always keep in mind, most vacation rentals in Venice are not owner-occupied, and flooded apartments often don't get immediate attention when they flood.

If you have any sensitivity to mold, mildew, and strange insects in your bed, trust me, you will HATE being suckered into a ground floor apartment that floods during the season of Acqua Alta. In an apartment that floods year after year, it's impossible to reach or get rid of mold, mildew, and insect nests. And that was the point of my mentioning Acqua Alta.

For your "Grand Canal" ride on the vaporetto, go with the #2. It does not make as many stops as the #1, and is a much more pleasant experience.

There are some ground floor apartments that are cared for (I stay in one, but it is the uber-budget variety). Corte 1321 B & B has a little ground floor studio with a kitchenette, and I am sure if it floods they are very quick to clean it up.

http://www.corte1321.com/en/

Or there is the really sweet little apartment on the Grand Canal at Corte Tiepolo.
http://www.cortetiepolo.com/

I have been to those apartments during a pretty bad acqua alta - the apartments did not flood, but the common entry way did.

Anyway it depends on your budget, but as you are doing your research, if you are going to go with a ground floor apartment ask a lot of questions to avoid the problems NY Food Snob speaks of. I'd consider location too as you do not want to be in some remote part of the city and have to get on a vaporetto to get everywhere.

<i><font color=#555555>"There are some ground floor apartments that are cared for"</font></i>

This is true, same with many hotels that get flooded. You'll often read complaints about mildew smell in certain hotel rooms on Trip Advisor and owners who try to mask the smell with pungent air fresheners. In Venice, mold is difficult to avoid because water takes a long time to dry in humid conditions. Venice is a very humid city year round.

Some ground floor apartments and hotels don't get flooded because their foundation sits above the flood line. I believe there is a map which shows the most flooded areas of Venice somewhere on the internet, but it's not the most precise way to determine whether a ground floor apartment is dry. Like I said earlier, it helps to know from experience.

A lot of foreigners have invested in Venice properties because they were sold on the financial windfall of vacation rentals. Many of these investors had no clue about buying in a flood zone, and now they are stuck trying to get a return on their investment. If you ask direct questions about flooding, mold, mildew, and insects, needless to say, getting an honest answer will depend on how badly the owner needs your business. Most tourists who don't do research have no clue what life is like in Venice. All most care about is price-per-night.

chris: >>vincenzo32951 and NYCFood Snob-I kinda want to just ride the vaporetto the length of the Grand Canal. <<

I have no problem with it. Just wanted to give you a realistic idea of what the trip is like. Lots of people will say, "Grab an outside seat." Right. You and 100 other people will be trying to do the same thing.

I'd suggest just avoiding a ground-floor apartment. It's not as if upper-floor apartments are that hard to find. Your main challenge will be, IMHO, finding an apartment that's not too many floors up in a building with no elevator. Obviously, the earlier you book, the better the chances of finding something that suits your needs.

There are some remote parts of Venice, such as Giudecca, but I think you can fairly open about locations. Sure, some are better than others and more centrally located, but Venice isn't big. Many locales will be convenient.

A few random restaurant suggestions:

La Palanca on Giudecca. Outside tables are on the water. Nice view of the city. Friendly owner often waits on tables. Authentic local seafood. Moderately priced.

Trattoria Da Fiore in the San Marco sestiere. Not to be confused with much more expensive Osteria Da Fiore. Good cicchetti. Moderately priced good meals. Nice house wine. Good service.

Pizzeria Trattoria All'Anfora in San Polo. Good, cheap place for pizza. The pizza is above average. Nice courtyard tables in the back. Not fancy, but a good post if you want decent pizza and a glass of wine.

Trattoria da Primo e Paolo on Burano. There are lots of mediocre restaurants on the main street in Burano, but this place is pretty good. Seating inside or outside. Friendly, family-run. Our waitress was the daughter of the owner. Good service. Moderate prices.