Itinerary for Scotland (esp. Aberdeen)
Nov 12th, 2011, 05:59 AM
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Itinerary for Scotland (esp. Aberdeen)
Early next summer, we'll have five nights in Scotland; two in Edinburgh and three elsewhere. It will be DH, DD (13yo) and DS (17yo); he's the one who really wants to visit Scotland, but can't provide me with specifics on why. We like castles, more the ruinous kind, and good regional foods. And DS is vegetarian.
I have an impressive list of castles, developed mostly from info here on Fodors, with some that we've noted that we'd really like to see (Dunrotter). Most are in the Aberdeenshire area. Though some in the Stirling area too.
And son, who will be entering his senior year after our trip, would kind of like to visit the University of Aberdeen, so any info about the university or the town from a student's perspective would be great. Don't know that he'd actually take that leap, but we're willing to have him check it out.
We'll have a car. I can't decide whether it makes sense to spend 3 nights in one place, or move around from night to night (though that can be a hassle). I'm kind of thinking Banchory would be a good base, but I'm not sure. I'm looking for a pretty little town, small enough to easily get around, big enough to have a restaurant choice. Stay at a B&B or a small inn, but a medium price range (as we'll need two rooms, the price adds up fast).
Any suggestions on towns to stay in and a general route? Whether it would be better to stay in one place, or move around?
I have an impressive list of castles, developed mostly from info here on Fodors, with some that we've noted that we'd really like to see (Dunrotter). Most are in the Aberdeenshire area. Though some in the Stirling area too.
And son, who will be entering his senior year after our trip, would kind of like to visit the University of Aberdeen, so any info about the university or the town from a student's perspective would be great. Don't know that he'd actually take that leap, but we're willing to have him check it out.
We'll have a car. I can't decide whether it makes sense to spend 3 nights in one place, or move around from night to night (though that can be a hassle). I'm kind of thinking Banchory would be a good base, but I'm not sure. I'm looking for a pretty little town, small enough to easily get around, big enough to have a restaurant choice. Stay at a B&B or a small inn, but a medium price range (as we'll need two rooms, the price adds up fast).
Any suggestions on towns to stay in and a general route? Whether it would be better to stay in one place, or move around?
Nov 12th, 2011, 08:22 AM
#2
Bancory, Ballateer, or Stoneheven would be a good base -or just about any of the small towns/villages in that general area.
Dunnottar is one of the best castle ruins and is in a magnificent setting basically surrounded by water.
Many of the other castles nearby (on the "Castle Trail") are not ruins -- many are still lived in.
I personally would not pack and move every day --just eats up too much time and is a hassle.
"medium price" really doesn't tell us anything. What is your actual budget?
Dunnottar is one of the best castle ruins and is in a magnificent setting basically surrounded by water.
Many of the other castles nearby (on the "Castle Trail") are not ruins -- many are still lived in.
I personally would not pack and move every day --just eats up too much time and is a hassle.
"medium price" really doesn't tell us anything. What is your actual budget?
Nov 12th, 2011, 10:23 AM
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Thanks for the ideas - those are three towns I've looked in, so good that I'm thinking of the right area.
Medium price, well, my thoughts on that are changing. I do want to stay in a place with some character; it doesn't need to be luxurious, though. I've found B&Bs for 30 BGP per person per night, but those don't seem very interesting. A number of small hotels, more in the 90 GBP per room per night range, which I'm willing to do for a place with some character and history.
I've been noticing that a lot of the buildings (those that are now B&Bs and hotels) in the area don't seem so old - Victorian era or so. Were there fewer people in the area before then, or the housing that was there before that was smaller and/or less durable?
My son found a picture book on Scotland at a used book store, and a picture of Dunnottar is on the cover - amazing. (Other more ruinous castles on my list are Kildrummy, Lithlingow, Slains, Huntly; they may not work into our itinerary, and we don't want all ruins anyway.)
Medium price, well, my thoughts on that are changing. I do want to stay in a place with some character; it doesn't need to be luxurious, though. I've found B&Bs for 30 BGP per person per night, but those don't seem very interesting. A number of small hotels, more in the 90 GBP per room per night range, which I'm willing to do for a place with some character and history.
I've been noticing that a lot of the buildings (those that are now B&Bs and hotels) in the area don't seem so old - Victorian era or so. Were there fewer people in the area before then, or the housing that was there before that was smaller and/or less durable?
My son found a picture book on Scotland at a used book store, and a picture of Dunnottar is on the cover - amazing. (Other more ruinous castles on my list are Kildrummy, Lithlingow, Slains, Huntly; they may not work into our itinerary, and we don't want all ruins anyway.)
Nov 12th, 2011, 12:14 PM
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We found that staying in diffeent places eachnight allowed us to see much more of the country than we would have done if we had stayed in just one place - although I see from your other threads that this is part of a much bigger trip. With careful planning though, using tripadvisor to help with your choice of places to stay it need not be a hassle at all. Take a look at the Undiscovered Scotland website and this was an interesting site that I just found recently - www.scottishhotelsoftheyear.com
Nov 12th, 2011, 12:16 PM
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Hi Lexma90,
I used a past suggestion from janisj and stayed in Stonehaven on my last trip -- loved it! Do get something to eat from Robertson Bakers!
Glennifer Guest House was a great B&B, http://www.gleniffer-stonehaven.co.uk/ The house was a Victorian, nicely renovated (not hoity-toity, just comfortably modernized) and they kept some of the touches from when it was a family home with servants -- you could see the bells for signaling servants.
Enjoy your trip. Cheers.
I used a past suggestion from janisj and stayed in Stonehaven on my last trip -- loved it! Do get something to eat from Robertson Bakers!
Glennifer Guest House was a great B&B, http://www.gleniffer-stonehaven.co.uk/ The house was a Victorian, nicely renovated (not hoity-toity, just comfortably modernized) and they kept some of the touches from when it was a family home with servants -- you could see the bells for signaling servants.
Enjoy your trip. Cheers.
Nov 12th, 2011, 01:05 PM
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A few more suggestions for your trip.
Another place in Stonehaven that you might have a look at is the Marine Hotel. Nice location on the harbor. Haven't stayed there but had lunch in the pub a few years ago. They were in the process of renovating the rooms. Note that when the Brits/Scots renovate it usually means a more modern look, but still should be nice. Just a quick look at their website and the pub still seems to retain its charm. www.marinehotelstonehaven.co.uk
There are several great places to dine in Stonehaven including the Tolbooth ( can recommend ) and the The Carron restaurant of which I've heard good things.
For Banchory the Learney Arms www.learneyarms.com might work for you.
Two more castle ruins to add to your list:
Glenbuchat Castle near Kildrummy
Tolquhon Castle near Pitmeddan
If interested, there are a number of megalithic sites near Inverurie including Loanhead Stone Circle.
Victorian era is likely the oldest archictectual style you'll come across.
Another place in Stonehaven that you might have a look at is the Marine Hotel. Nice location on the harbor. Haven't stayed there but had lunch in the pub a few years ago. They were in the process of renovating the rooms. Note that when the Brits/Scots renovate it usually means a more modern look, but still should be nice. Just a quick look at their website and the pub still seems to retain its charm. www.marinehotelstonehaven.co.uk
There are several great places to dine in Stonehaven including the Tolbooth ( can recommend ) and the The Carron restaurant of which I've heard good things.
For Banchory the Learney Arms www.learneyarms.com might work for you.
Two more castle ruins to add to your list:
Glenbuchat Castle near Kildrummy
Tolquhon Castle near Pitmeddan
If interested, there are a number of megalithic sites near Inverurie including Loanhead Stone Circle.
Victorian era is likely the oldest archictectual style you'll come across.
Nov 12th, 2011, 02:03 PM
#7
"<i>We found that staying in diffeent places eachnight allowed us to see much more of the country than we would have done if we had stayed in just one place -</i>"
A lot of folks go that way and nothing actually wrong w/ it. But IMO -- a well located hotel/B&B for a few days actually lets one see/do <i>more</i> and have a 'home' to return to each night.
I generally stay in one place for around a week (renting a cottage or flat) and am able to see everything w/i a VERY large area. Packing and moving every morning uses up a lot of time and really isn't necessary.
A lot of folks go that way and nothing actually wrong w/ it. But IMO -- a well located hotel/B&B for a few days actually lets one see/do <i>more</i> and have a 'home' to return to each night.
I generally stay in one place for around a week (renting a cottage or flat) and am able to see everything w/i a VERY large area. Packing and moving every morning uses up a lot of time and really isn't necessary.
Nov 13th, 2011, 03:57 AM
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The bad news is that, we are awash with castle in the north east; the good news is that we can give good advise.
Can I suggest that you take your first day out of Edinburgh doing stuff en route north.
I would do Linlithgow since it's on your list; Falkland Palace in Fife, then Dunottar. Now, that's a full day without more; but the days are long and we can suggest padding round about those three castles.
Other good ones to consider generally on the way would be Huntingtower, Doune, Elcho, Glamis.
There was a great period of prosperity in the north east in the 19th century; and Queen Victoria's wee hoose at Ballater attracted tourists so we have a lot of 19th century stuff. There is older but you have to scrabble to find it.
If it were me, I would be looking to stay somewhere central to the Castle Trail and do my touring from there, but, frankly, you've identified the prettiest places that meet your requirements. Inverurie does too, but it's not as pretty.
For people doing teh Castle Trail, I often recommend the Redgarth in Oldmeldrum, but I'm not sure it meets your criteria.
If you were prepared to drive out to dinner....
How about this place?
http://www.aboutscotland.com/aberdeen/warthill.html
The location is very good for what you want to do; the price is excellent; and you'd be staying with the gentry
If you do decide on Deeside, I think you're going to have to be in Stonehaven to get anything older than Victorian; and that will have to be in the old town- The Marine or The Ship; or there's a B&B at 24 Shorehead.
If you want a castle to stay in, look at Delgatie. It's a bit offcentre, again.
I think my favourite ruined castle in Kildrummy; I think Castle Fraser is the most interesting of the NTS ones, although the gardens at Crathes are special; and the American connection at Fyvie is really interesting too.
The north east is my bailiwick, and if you can pin down some fundamentals, I'll happily help to fill in the gaps.
My husband and I have a developed an evening whizz-round-the-city tour we'd be happy to give you. It includes Old Aberdeen where most of the Univeristy is- and we are both alumni, tho' sadly not recent arrivals- so you can get an oversight of that. If it's in term time, I can find a student (I have connections) who can give your older son a student based tour. What would he be studying?
Can I suggest that you take your first day out of Edinburgh doing stuff en route north.
I would do Linlithgow since it's on your list; Falkland Palace in Fife, then Dunottar. Now, that's a full day without more; but the days are long and we can suggest padding round about those three castles.
Other good ones to consider generally on the way would be Huntingtower, Doune, Elcho, Glamis.
There was a great period of prosperity in the north east in the 19th century; and Queen Victoria's wee hoose at Ballater attracted tourists so we have a lot of 19th century stuff. There is older but you have to scrabble to find it.
If it were me, I would be looking to stay somewhere central to the Castle Trail and do my touring from there, but, frankly, you've identified the prettiest places that meet your requirements. Inverurie does too, but it's not as pretty.
For people doing teh Castle Trail, I often recommend the Redgarth in Oldmeldrum, but I'm not sure it meets your criteria.
If you were prepared to drive out to dinner....
How about this place?
http://www.aboutscotland.com/aberdeen/warthill.html
The location is very good for what you want to do; the price is excellent; and you'd be staying with the gentry
If you do decide on Deeside, I think you're going to have to be in Stonehaven to get anything older than Victorian; and that will have to be in the old town- The Marine or The Ship; or there's a B&B at 24 Shorehead.
If you want a castle to stay in, look at Delgatie. It's a bit offcentre, again.
I think my favourite ruined castle in Kildrummy; I think Castle Fraser is the most interesting of the NTS ones, although the gardens at Crathes are special; and the American connection at Fyvie is really interesting too.
The north east is my bailiwick, and if you can pin down some fundamentals, I'll happily help to fill in the gaps.
My husband and I have a developed an evening whizz-round-the-city tour we'd be happy to give you. It includes Old Aberdeen where most of the Univeristy is- and we are both alumni, tho' sadly not recent arrivals- so you can get an oversight of that. If it's in term time, I can find a student (I have connections) who can give your older son a student based tour. What would he be studying?
Nov 13th, 2011, 05:59 AM
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Such helpful responses - thanks, everyone, for all of the suggestions.
My castle lists currently has about 80 places on it, so it will obviously be a matter of narrowing down (drastically). And the additional suggestions on places to stay (especially Sheila) are fabulous. Why are you not sure about the Redgarth? It sounds great; I only wish there were more pictures. I need to back off on the age of the buildings; what I'm seeking, and everyone's advice has helped greatly, is places that are typical, or fit into, an area, whatever the age is.
Sheila, I was hoping you'd contribute. Once we've decided on a locale, I'll ask more questions. Though I don't want to pin down things too much. Our planning style is to pick a few "must-sees," then a bunch of "wanna-sees," so we can change things around based on what we find we like once we reach a place.
And I'll talk to my son about Aberdeen. I want to encourage his interests in searching for a college, but I also don't want to waste your time, or that of a student, if he's not really serious. We'll be there during the Summer term. Right now, I think he's interested in history or politics and international relations. (If that's the case, a graduate degree will be the followup, in something he can get a job in.)
And to digress, on hotels/inns/B&Bs. We're the type who are out and about during our vacations. Our "down time" is spent primarily at cafes and the like, enjoying a drink and people-watching (not sitting in our hotel). But as I think back on our trips, and where we've stayed, the lodging has contributed to our experience. And again, we definitely don't stay in luxurious or expensive places, and I guess not everyone would find our choices interesting, but we have. (For example, on our recent trip to Spain, we stayed at Hotel Amadeus in Sevilla; just entrancing inside, great price, great location that allowed us breakfasts of cafe con leche and sandwiches (us grownups) and churros (our daughter) from a nearby churreria. Or in the Piemonte, in Italy, in the tiny town of Monforte, Le Case della Saracca.)
My castle lists currently has about 80 places on it, so it will obviously be a matter of narrowing down (drastically). And the additional suggestions on places to stay (especially Sheila) are fabulous. Why are you not sure about the Redgarth? It sounds great; I only wish there were more pictures. I need to back off on the age of the buildings; what I'm seeking, and everyone's advice has helped greatly, is places that are typical, or fit into, an area, whatever the age is.
Sheila, I was hoping you'd contribute. Once we've decided on a locale, I'll ask more questions. Though I don't want to pin down things too much. Our planning style is to pick a few "must-sees," then a bunch of "wanna-sees," so we can change things around based on what we find we like once we reach a place.
And I'll talk to my son about Aberdeen. I want to encourage his interests in searching for a college, but I also don't want to waste your time, or that of a student, if he's not really serious. We'll be there during the Summer term. Right now, I think he's interested in history or politics and international relations. (If that's the case, a graduate degree will be the followup, in something he can get a job in.)
And to digress, on hotels/inns/B&Bs. We're the type who are out and about during our vacations. Our "down time" is spent primarily at cafes and the like, enjoying a drink and people-watching (not sitting in our hotel). But as I think back on our trips, and where we've stayed, the lodging has contributed to our experience. And again, we definitely don't stay in luxurious or expensive places, and I guess not everyone would find our choices interesting, but we have. (For example, on our recent trip to Spain, we stayed at Hotel Amadeus in Sevilla; just entrancing inside, great price, great location that allowed us breakfasts of cafe con leche and sandwiches (us grownups) and churros (our daughter) from a nearby churreria. Or in the Piemonte, in Italy, in the tiny town of Monforte, Le Case della Saracca.)
Nov 13th, 2011, 12:35 PM
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Janis is a stalwart of this site but Ihave to challenge her view that "a well located hotel/B&B for a few days actually lets one see/do more and have a 'home' to return to each night" and that "packing and moving every morning uses up a lot of time and really isn't necessary."
Logically a few well located hotels/B&Bs will actually let you see and do more. The landscape in the UK changes so dramatically over short distances and so it is simply a matter of common sense that travelling from A to B to C to D lets you see and do more than travelling from A to B to A to C to A to D.
If feeling like we had a 'home' to return to each night was important then surely we would stay home more. For some a holiday is just about relaxing and doing very little. For others trips are about the different experiences and sights, particularly if it is a first visit to a country. Sure, if you stay in one place for a week then you will unpack and put everything away and packing will take a long time, but if you are in a different place each night then stuff stays in bags and 'packing' in the morning a 10 minute job at most. The 'moving' is pretty much the same whichever type of trip you choose.
You have some excellent advice from others and I could envisage you working out a trip that includes staying in a castle one night, a Victorian B&B the next and a 200 year old inn the one after that.
As Janis says, nothing wrong with staying in one place but I just think you will see and experience more by choosing a few places.
Logically a few well located hotels/B&Bs will actually let you see and do more. The landscape in the UK changes so dramatically over short distances and so it is simply a matter of common sense that travelling from A to B to C to D lets you see and do more than travelling from A to B to A to C to A to D.
If feeling like we had a 'home' to return to each night was important then surely we would stay home more. For some a holiday is just about relaxing and doing very little. For others trips are about the different experiences and sights, particularly if it is a first visit to a country. Sure, if you stay in one place for a week then you will unpack and put everything away and packing will take a long time, but if you are in a different place each night then stuff stays in bags and 'packing' in the morning a 10 minute job at most. The 'moving' is pretty much the same whichever type of trip you choose.
You have some excellent advice from others and I could envisage you working out a trip that includes staying in a castle one night, a Victorian B&B the next and a 200 year old inn the one after that.
As Janis says, nothing wrong with staying in one place but I just think you will see and experience more by choosing a few places.
Nov 13th, 2011, 12:58 PM
#12
"<i>it is simply a matter of common sense that travelling from A to B to C to D lets you see and do more than travelling from A to B to A to C to A to D. </i>"
Not necessarily IME. Over probably 20+ plus trips to Scotland, from short weekends to 4+ week stays.
For many itineraries a few one night stands between other 2/3/4 night stays do make sense. But night after night after night . . . one never gets a chance to get a 'sense of the place'.
A 'fer instance': Say one stays near Callander. One day you can take the train into Edinburgh or Glasgow (if you aren't staying in either city during the trip). One day do Stirling Castle/Doune/Inchmahome Priory. One day Scone Palace/Dunkeld/Blair Atholl/Loch Tummel. One day Loch Lomond and the west. In the evenings you can visit the local pub and get to know some of the regulars. Then take off for the next destination visiting say Killin and Glencoe enroute to staying on Skye.
Just depends on if you want to settle in a bit or check out every morning.
Not necessarily IME. Over probably 20+ plus trips to Scotland, from short weekends to 4+ week stays.
For many itineraries a few one night stands between other 2/3/4 night stays do make sense. But night after night after night . . . one never gets a chance to get a 'sense of the place'.
A 'fer instance': Say one stays near Callander. One day you can take the train into Edinburgh or Glasgow (if you aren't staying in either city during the trip). One day do Stirling Castle/Doune/Inchmahome Priory. One day Scone Palace/Dunkeld/Blair Atholl/Loch Tummel. One day Loch Lomond and the west. In the evenings you can visit the local pub and get to know some of the regulars. Then take off for the next destination visiting say Killin and Glencoe enroute to staying on Skye.
Just depends on if you want to settle in a bit or check out every morning.
Nov 13th, 2011, 08:34 PM
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Thanks, all, for the opinions. The big decision will be whether we move around or stay in one place (or one night one place and two nights another place); it's a decision we've had to make for other trips, and there are advantages and disadvantages to both options, as has been noted.
At some point, we'll have to gather in front of the google map I've made, with tons of castles marked, and decide which course we want to take.
At some point, we'll have to gather in front of the google map I've made, with tons of castles marked, and decide which course we want to take.
Nov 16th, 2011, 07:42 AM
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Looking at Janis's 'fer instance' you could do all of that by basing yourself in Stirling (there is no train 'near' Callander). Car parking is no problem and the train to either Glasgow or Edinburgh city centre is only 40 minutes.
I agree with having a base for a few days as I couldn't be doing with living out of a suitcase. With a bit of planning you can cover a large area from two or three central bases.
I agree with having a base for a few days as I couldn't be doing with living out of a suitcase. With a bit of planning you can cover a large area from two or three central bases.
Nov 16th, 2011, 09:04 AM
#16
"<i>(there is no train 'near' Callander).</i>"
I didn't say take the train from Callander. I was just using that as an example of using a single base to see a huge area. I would probably take the train from Dunblane myself instead of Stirling - a bit shorter drive from Callander and no city hassle.
I didn't say take the train from Callander. I was just using that as an example of using a single base to see a huge area. I would probably take the train from Dunblane myself instead of Stirling - a bit shorter drive from Callander and no city hassle.
Nov 16th, 2011, 11:03 AM
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Janisj, I was actually agreeing with you although using the word 'near' implies that there is station in the vicinity of Callander to those who don't know the area. We both know that's not the case - that's all I was trying to make clear.
As we're on the subject I know Stirling is technically classed as a 'city' but it's not actually that big - population of the place is around 35,000. I don't know what hassle you refer to - my daughter lived there until recently and getting in and out by car is no problem and there's more life about the place than would be found in Dunblane.
I think sometimes we know what we mean when we write things down but it can sometimes lead to confusion when a bit more thought about a word or phrase would make things clear.
This a general comment, by the way, not directed just at you as I have a lot of respect for the information you provide others about my country. I know I probably sound like FlannerUK but this is meant to be helpful.
As we're on the subject I know Stirling is technically classed as a 'city' but it's not actually that big - population of the place is around 35,000. I don't know what hassle you refer to - my daughter lived there until recently and getting in and out by car is no problem and there's more life about the place than would be found in Dunblane.
I think sometimes we know what we mean when we write things down but it can sometimes lead to confusion when a bit more thought about a word or phrase would make things clear.
This a general comment, by the way, not directed just at you as I have a lot of respect for the information you provide others about my country. I know I probably sound like FlannerUK but this is meant to be helpful.
Nov 16th, 2011, 02:17 PM
#18
"<i>there's more life about the place than would be found in Dunblane. </i>"
OK- I think there is a bit of miscommunicatin' going on here.
I don't think I implied staying in Dunblane. I was talking about staying near Callander and then one day driving to Dunblane, parking the car, taking the train into Edinburgh, back to Dunblane, hop in the car and 20 mins later you are back 'home' in Callander.
But we are sort of hijacking Lexma's thread . . . I was simply trying to show how one can see as much or more basing in one place as in moving every day.
OK- I think there is a bit of miscommunicatin' going on here.
I don't think I implied staying in Dunblane. I was talking about staying near Callander and then one day driving to Dunblane, parking the car, taking the train into Edinburgh, back to Dunblane, hop in the car and 20 mins later you are back 'home' in Callander.
But we are sort of hijacking Lexma's thread . . . I was simply trying to show how one can see as much or more basing in one place as in moving every day.
Nov 16th, 2011, 02:21 PM
#19
Oh and to truly kick this poor dead horse . . . 
The reason I suggested Dunblane is because I have known several people (not me) who were scared spitless driving in Stirling. Even though getting to the station is easy.
The reason I suggested Dunblane is because I have known several people (not me) who were scared spitless driving in Stirling. Even though getting to the station is easy.
Jan 12th, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Topping my own thread here.
No decisions made yet re lodging. We may just wing it - I'm thinking that in late May/early June, places won't be too busy.
But my real request is for Sheila the Aberdeen alum. DS is still interested, and gathering what information about the school that he can. We are planning to make an official visit to the school when we're in the area. Would you be willing to email with him, to answer some questions about the school and the city? If so, you can reach me at Lexma90 at aol dot com. Thanks.
No decisions made yet re lodging. We may just wing it - I'm thinking that in late May/early June, places won't be too busy.
But my real request is for Sheila the Aberdeen alum. DS is still interested, and gathering what information about the school that he can. We are planning to make an official visit to the school when we're in the area. Would you be willing to email with him, to answer some questions about the school and the city? If so, you can reach me at Lexma90 at aol dot com. Thanks.
