Kristina

After many years of talking about it we are finally headed to Puglia in early October. I'll be traveling with my mother. We arrive/depart from Bari and will have a car for the whole trip.

We have 3 nights in a Masseria between Fasano and Ostuni, 3 nights in a palazzo converted to a B&B in the center of Lecce, and 3 nights in a hotel in the sassi of Matera.

Now comes the hard part; what to see/do and more importantly, where to EAT in these areas (we tend to lean toward rustic as opposed to fancy). I'd like to arrange a loose itinerary for each area. We love markets and the occasional museum. Right now, the only thing we have booked is a tour with Nadia Garlatti in Matera.

I've read though many of the great trip reports here already but it's a bit overwhelming. I'm looking to weed out the gems our specific areas.

I haven't found anything which looks to be an adequate guide book just for the region so if anyone can recommend one, I'd love to know.

Any advice is welcome. Thanks!

bilboburgler

The Blue Guide for Southern Italy is a good place to start.

welltraveledbrit

I highly recommend the Crypt of Original Sin just outside of Matera. It'a a fascinating site, an early cave church with wonderful ninth century frescoes. It was one of the highlights of our trip to the region. You can see photos and further details on my blog.

http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/....html?q=matera

We took a walking tour with Nadia Garlatti who was recommended by other Fodorites. I can't think of a better way to see the city than with her. Nadia's rates are extremely reasonable and you can reach her directly at [email protected]

If I had three nights in Matera I'd schedule Nadia at the beginning of the trip and ask her what she recommended in the area.

Approach_Guides

Doing a tour of Puglia's Romanesque churches is a great way to explore the area. The area is home to many churches that were constructed during a Crusade-inspired boom period from 1031 to 1194. The architecture is unique in that it blends elements of the Eastern and Western architectural traditions.
The best towns to see the churches (and have a great meal or two!) are: Manfredonia, Troia, Trani, Molfetta, Ruvo di Puglia, Bitonto, and Bari.
Have a great trip!

kja

For a guidebook that just covers southern Italy, I agree with bilboburgler -- try the Blue Guide.

Kristina

Thanks for the recommendtions so far. The issue I have with the Blue Guide is that it does not appear to have been updated since 2007.

Welltraveledbrit-thanks for the link about the church and I enjoyed checking out your blog posts. Glad to know we are on the right track; we've already booked Nadia as I mentioned above.

Approach- I'll have to see which of those towns are in out path to see some of those churches.

Hope ekscrunchy will this this post.

kja

You might consult some general guides to Italy, too!

Kristina

kja- I have quite a few general guides to Italy, it's just none have any depth to Puglia.I also didn't want to have to bring a huge book for all of 25 pages.
I've seen what Amazon carries for example and it's either old and out of date, covers too broad of a territory or unavailable.
I was just wondering if I was missing anything.

kja

Yes, the coverage of Puglia in guidebooks is generally thin. That's why I was quick to second bilboburgler's rec of the Blue Guide. But I also found some good info in general guidebooks for Italy -- as examples, the information in the Rough Guide was useful and a few pages in the National Geographic Traveller provided some suggestions that I didn't see in any of my other books. Although I usually treat books with great care, I'm happy to rip travel guide books apart so I can take just what I want. And with today's options for electronic books, those of us who have e-readers don't have to worry about it! Just trying to offer some useful info....

bilboburgler

Nothing much changes in Puglia, so the 2007 is up to date

ekscrunchy

Hi, Kristina! I will return with more thoughts, but for now, in the fraccione of Speziale, on the main road between Fasano and Ostuni, there is an alimentari with many food basics. They also make a few delicious treats for takeout, including a very good frittata made in what I think is the Pugliese fashion, with bread crumbs. They are also a cheesemaker, and you can watch the process of making mozzarella if you check with them the day before, and arrive early in the morning. Across the street is a winning little trattoria with a pretty outdoor space--Il Cortiletto.
A work of love by the chef/owners, and a good compromise between a rustic rural space and a tourist-driven "restaurant." Do not put it at the top of your list, but keep it in mind.

On the coastal strip near Torre Canne stretching north to near Savelletri, and a few minutes drive from Speziale, there is a short string of rustic seafood places offering the local delicacy: Ricci di mare, or sea urchin. You need to try these. See this:


http://www.southernvisionstravel.com...-season-ricci/


See if this helps with food:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...t-comments.cfm


In Matera, you should devote an hour or so to the bread; see my comments about the bakery I visited in this report; see post from 5/25/11, after the comments on restaurant Lucanerie.


http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-di-senise.cfm

Kristina

kja and bilboburgler- ok, I hear you on the Blue Guide. Point taken.

ekscrunchy-I was hoping you'd reply!
Thanks for the recommendations. I need to go though each of your reports and dig out the gems for our areas along with that lengthy restaurant list.
Do those seafood places you mentioned offer anything else good beyond sea urchin (which is not one of my favorite things)?

I will definitely visit that bakery in Matera! I can't believe you carried that much bread home with you.
From what I can tell, those breads have salt in them, correct, unlike other traditional Italian breads? They look fantastic.
Just wondering, but do you declare your food purchases on arrival to the US?

kawh

will start with the best morning pasticciotto and cappuccino in lecce... at an unlikely bar right in the tourist center called 'cin cin'. we tried it whenever we could, but always came back for theirs. served warm, and with a tiny undertone of lemon... we thought theirs was by far the best in the area. the cappuccino is amazing as well. we loved puglia. more to come.

kja

Assuming you don't want a major purchase of food or food products to be confiscated at customs, here's a link to the current rules:

https://help.cbp.gov/app/answers/det...r-personal-use

ekscrunchy

K: Yes, full range of seafood and fish.

The bread has salt. I wish I could post a photo of my carryon bag, bulging with all that bread, taralli, friselle, and dried pasta. You must get to a bread bakery in Matera, either that one or any other of the prime spots.

Also: You will be there at prime time for Senise peppers. You MUST bring some of these home...you can buy a long strand at Il Buongustaio on the main square in "new" Matera, or probably at the market in town. I still have a long strand from last fall..they shrivel up but are totally usable even after one or two years. (I posted the pasta recipe, and you will see this on menus in Matera. If you are interested in taking the 90-minute drive to Senise, you can do this from Matera, and you can visit a pepper farm. I will give you details of my own visit if you are interested and think you will have time. The scenery around there is outstanding and unique to Italy)

The last few trips, I declared some of the permitted food items.

Coming home from Spain last fall, I was met at baggage claim by a rather frisky and adorable beagle. For a minute, I wondered why he was nuzzling my carry on bag. Then the light bulb went off: I had forgotten about the lamb sandwich that I had planned to eat on the plane. The bag had been so jammed into the overhead cubby someplace that it was just too much trouble to take it down, so I forgot about the sandwich. Leave it to that trusty beagle to remind me! So they marked my custom's form, and I fessed up to the official, who duly scrounged for the sandwich and tossed it out. I must tell you, though, I still dream about that lamb in its first incarnation, on my plate at Caserio Ananda.

Kristina

kawh- Thanks for the rec. I'll look for it!

kja- I know the rules, I was just wondering if ekscrunchy followed them since she brings back so much food. ;-) I have Global Entry, so I'm extra careful now with what I bring back. Not willing to take any chances!

ekscrunchy- I was reading your last trip report and you mentioned a Saveur article on Matera from 2009. I was not able to find it online, were you?
Also, are you familiar with this book? Eating and Drinking in Italy http://www.amazon.com/dp/1593601433/..._26725410_item

ekscrunchy

Kristina: I have a subscription, so I received that issue. The article really sparked my interest in Matera and the Senise peppers. Only the pasta recipe is online, but I bet you could buy the back issue; it is worth a try, as it is a good article. The author is Francine Prose.

http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipe...d-Bread-Crumbs

I'm not familiar with the Eating and Drinking book.

This thread brings back memories. Also, make sure to read the thread posted by Franco a few years ago; let me know if you cannot find and I will look for it.

MoPet

Kristina- we too will soon be in the areas you mention and cannot wait! Since she is so highly regarded here, I booked Nadia for a tour of Matera a few weeks back. Just heard that she now has a conflict, so she will send one of her colleagues, Giovanni, to be our tour guide. Curious as to whether others have toured Matera with him. Nadia has assured me he's very capable. We had booked for our arrival day to get a heads ip on the area. Hope you submit a trip report of your experience!

Kristina

MoPet- I have a web site where I blog about my travels. In the past I've also posted trip reports here, but haven't for the last few. But this is a place "less traveled" so perhaps I will this time!
From your other posts, it looks like you may be going a bit before I do. Have a great trip!

MoPet

Thank you Kristina! I shall look forward to hearing more about your trip. I am not yet sure whether I will report here, or share on my website, but either way, enjoy your trip as well!