Italy without Moving
 

I have about two weeks to spend in Italy during the beginning of December. I've got a dream vacation in mind and I'm hoping some readers can share suggestions:

After a couple of days in Rome, my wife and I settle into some smallish town for a week or so. Someplace with nice food, preferably by the water, where we can just idle away the time (think "Talented Mr. Ripley" before all the nasty killing starts). I don't want to be dependent on a car, other than for the occassional day trip. I don't need nightlife. Just a nice piazza or two, a couple of churches and some cafes for reading a book.

Suggestions?

Suggestion: take me too! Ahh...just felt my shoulders relax as I read your post. Go to www.slowtrav and www.slowtalk, two non-commercial related websites where knowledgable people share your dream.

Think southern Tuscany, though not near the water--Pienza, Montalcino, Montepulciano.

Promise us a trip report when you return, OK?

No offense, but there are way more knowledgable travelers on Fodors than on Slowtrav. The same half dozen people answer your questions over there, while there are a ton more participants on Fodors, and you're bound to get a wider variety of opinions. Also, check the bottom of the posts on Slowtalk, and you will find that it isn't as non-commercial as you think - most of the people who post there are selling one thing or another to tourists.

Here's a direct quote from Pauline Kenney posted on this board re the commercial aspects of SlowTrav and SlowTalk.

"SlowTrav/SlowTalk is not affiliated with any vacation rental agencies or travel businesses. It is an online
community for people who travel slowly - staying in vacation rentals."

I believe the Fodors site and the SlowTrav/SlowTalk sites complement each other. Both have scads of good info.

Ah, guys, I'm looking for a dream vacation and you're clogging up my post with a debate about Slowtrav? Eyes on the ball, folks.

Now, back to those nice suggestions please.

How about Lucca? You would have to take the train from Rome to Florence, but once you are there, you never need to get in the car unless you want to. Walk down to the town square and watch the men play bocci ball..sit in the square at night after dinner and just soak up the atmosphere...sigh~

I have spent beautiful, sunny days in Portovenere in December. That's the town that jumped into my mind's eye as I read your post, but I was wearing a winter coat and hat and gloves! Just so you don't mind that part.

SORRENTO. In December, it will be a little warmer than most places, and it's on the water, and there will be less tourists then and slow pace. Lots of cafes to sit in, and little alleys with cute little shops to wander. I believe day trips to Naples or Pompeii by train are possible, or ferry to islands or Naples if the weather is good. Leisurely drive to Paestum to see the Greek temples and lunch. drive the Amalfi coast for the beaufiul views and up to Ravello at on of the great restaurants for lunch with a view, or drive to nearby Vietri to shop for colorful ceramics. Enjoy!

I love Southern Tuscany, Montepulciano or Montalcino. But no water. For water try the Ligurian coast: Camogli, Santa Margherita, Portofino. Enjoy!
http://www.welcometuscany.it/outside.../portofino.htm

http://www.cenobio.com/

http://www.karenbrown.com/italy/deta...so?RecID=10638

Does anyone have a thought about whether Montepulciano might fit the bill here? Keep in mind that we're talking about December.

On the other hand, are there any particular towns in the south that might be a good fit?

Thanks for all the suggestions so far. Please keep them coming.

I'd also have to recommend southern Italy, particularly Campania. Don't know if it's totally shut down in December, but you might consider the islands of Ischia or Procida in the Bay of Naples. The "idling away the time" sequence from "Talented Mr. Ripley" that you mention was filmed on the former. I haven't been there personally, but thought the suggestions might give you some additional ideas.

We were in Tuscany last October, spent two nights in Montepulciano. We would have preferred Pienza or Montalcino. We thought it was hard to find our way around Montepulciano - didn't really find much to see - had a hard time finding places to eat. Whereas we thought Pienza was a beautiful little village - much more interesting. Enjoyed Montalcino also. They are all so close, you can stay at any one at night and see the others during the day.

If you want a dream vacation then go in May. If you must do Dec. then go to Positano, but it may still be cold.

Timbalero, Sorrento is in southern Italy, (Campania) and just south of Positano. I think Positano will be mostly shut down, since their tourist season is in the summer. Sorrento is a little larger, and may have more distractions and people-watching. It sounds like you want warm lazy days in a piazza. I would reommend Tuscany/Umbria in summer for that also. In December, no. There's always Sicily!

What about Venice? It will probably be cold but so will the Tuscan Hill towns.

For milder weather with the ambience and scenery that you describe, I would suggest Taormina, Sicily or the Amalfi Coast (I, like Bob the Nav, am partial to Positano rather than Sorrento). Expect highs in the low to mid-60's. The hill towns of Tuscany, while beautiful, are far too cold in December for me. Have fun!

Ok, first, thanks to everyone who's responded. There were a lot of great ideas there and I really appreciate the help.

Here's the plan and a couple more questions.

I've settled on Montepulciano. I know it's going to be cold, but not compared to New York in December. It seems like the right size, I found a terrific property and I've been jonesing for cingale ever since our last trip to Tuscany 7 years ago. I know there's no water but, c'mon, it's December.

One question my wife has asked is whether things close down in that area during winter. From what I've read in guidebooks, it doesn't seem like it. Any thoughts to the contrary?

The other question: Any suggestions for restaurants in the area of Montepulciano? My wife and I are series foodies (well, she's the series foodie, I eat).

Again, thanks to all.

Make that "serious" foodies. I can't believe I spelled it wrong twice.

La Chiusa in Montefellonico is an excellent restaurant. We had a great lunch there last Spring.

Pawleys -- but let's hope it's not "chiuso" when Timbalero is there! :-)