Rome photos:
http://www.heatherandshawn.net/blog/...ome/index.html

<b>Next:</b> General tips...

hlock1-well I see you just affirmed my opinion on this board about Vino Vino-mediocre food, brusque service-and as I posted before, when I walked in there sometime just before 9pm, they had run out of food! (their sardines in saor, btw,a signature Venetian dish, was awful).

On the other hand, you can't get much better, and more Venetian, than Ruga Rialto and Cantina do Mori-two of my favorite bacarie-will be at both of them in just a few weeks!

But was esp. interested in your Roman restaurant experience-I also, want to try Al Pompiere, having heard very good things about it, but unfortunately, most of the restaurants I want to try, including this one, are closed in August. Cavour is not, however, and it's very near my hotel, so I will try this enoteca for sure. Thanks for the reviews!

Hi spygirl -- Thanks for the input. I was so disappointed that we didn't get to try Vino Vino, but after hearing this, maybe I'm not so bothered. =)

We ate at both the Ruga and Do Mori last year and loved them. We threw Alla Botte into the mix this year and it ended up being our favorite. It's very nearby the others, as well (provided you haven't been there already). You just cross back over the Rialto Bridge and walk into Campo S. Bart. It's just down a tiny street there. You won't be disappointed if you're into the other two...

Have a great trip! - h.

When we happened upon la bocca della verit&agrave; back in April, 1998, there were very few people around. Our guidebook prompted us to put our hands in the mouth and swear our fidelity, and if we were lying, la bocca would bite off our hand.

After Margie and I got through this tradition successfully, a young Italian couple appeared. He went through the ritual, but she refused to do it. He seemed genuinely upset. Perhaps la bocca della verit&agrave; really <i>does</i> work to reveal the truth - it can bite a couple even without actually removing a hand. It's nice to see that Heather and Shawn made it through intact.

I have never seen <i>Roman Holiday</i>, and knew nothing about la bocca before that trip. Some websites think la bocca is actually a large manhole cover; others that it was once part of a Roman fountain.

- Larry

Hi again, Larry -- We had heard that it was a manhole cover, as well. Our tour guide in Rome also told the group this.

Anyhow, thank you for sharing your story. I like your thinking... Now, you definitely need to see Roman Holiday! It has so much of the city and is a really nice story. -- h.

hlocke1, great report and wonderful photos! Thanks for sharing. Looking at your Capri, Positano and Ravello photos was a little trip down memory lane. Looks like we enjoyed a lot of the same places.

Heather -
Thanks for the report and photos. DH and I just got back from Venice, and will be going to Positano and Capri in May. Gave us lots to look forward to!

Are you a photographer by trade? Your photos are gorgeous!

Hi ms_go -- Your photos were wonderful, too. The Capri set definitely inspired me. I think we'll spend a lot more time their on our next visit.

Wanderer -- Aren't you lucky? And thank you for the nice compliment, but I am not a photographer by trade. =)

<b>GENERAL TIPS</b>
To finish this trip report, I would like to offer some general advice on a few things. None of this is new, but these are things that I see frequently asked here on the boards.

<b>Money &amp; Safety</b>
Before leaving, we ordered 200 Euros and US $150 in traveller’s checks (both free of charge though our bank and AAA). We also carried US $25. I always order Euros before a trip to have a bit of cash to start with. It is a free service from my bank and no hassle. While overseas, we relied solely on our ATM and credit cards to access money. We had no issues doing so and got a very good rate as expected.

To keep our passports, credit cards, and cash safe, we always wear an around-the-neck, under-the-clothes money pouch. This was my ninth trip to Europe and, save a few things that were stolen from our suitcase when it was not in our possession, I’ve never had anything taken.

<b>Packing</b>
We pack pretty lightly, choosing a selection of clothing that we can mix and match while we’re away. Because of this, we are always able to fit everything into a single small, rolling bag that fits in the overhead compartment on airplanes. This time, we allowed ourselves two small bags. We each claimed one, keeping our clothing separate and toiletries in my suitcase. In Venice, we were forced to check our bags (see “Flights” above) and one of the bags ended up lost for over three days. My DH was without a change of clothes over this time period.

Because of this, we learned a couple of lessons. In the future, we will not assume that our luggage will arrive safely even though we plan to store our bags in the overhead bin. An airline could force us to check our bags again when we’re not expecting it. More importantly, if we pack two bags, we plan to mix our things together in both of them. That way, if one of the bags did end up lost again, we would each have clothing available rather than leaving one of us to suffer with nothing.

<b>Digital Photography</b>
I am an amateur photographer that tends to fill several gigs of memory card space on each trip I take. Last year, I ran out of memory cards in Venice, the last place I wanted to be without photo-taking ability. This year, I considered having CDs burnt while we were over there to free up space, but opted for another solution instead. Apple recently released a camera connecter attachment that accompanies the iPod Photo. The camera connector allows you to hook up the camera to the iPod and move over all images to its hard drive. It takes about 20 minutes for a 512 MB card. Once they are uploaded, you can review each photo on the iPod. This worked extremely well for us and I was able to shoot as many pictures as I wanted. When we returned home, I connected the iPod to our computer and removed the photos. We were also able to compile a slideshow on the iPod that we could hook up to our TV to show our families.

<b>A Note about the Language...</b>
Before we went to Italy on our HM last year, my DH was slightly intimidated by the “language barrier”. I assured him it would not be a problem, but we decided to study Italian on our own before leaving and learned enough to get around. After returning from our HM, we enrolled in two semesters of Italian at our local university. They offer classes on Saturday mornings for those with full-time jobs. We loved these classes and will continue this fall. While English is widely spoken in Italy, we find that our Italian skills have made our trips so much more enjoyable and interesting. At the minimum, I would recommend learning some basic sentences like those in the Rick Steves or Berlitz phrasebooks. For those interested in learning more (and without the university option), we checked out a great CD set from our library by Pimsleur.

Thanks for reading. I look forward to continued learning through these boards to make our next trip even better! - Heather.

Hi Heather,

Absolutely FABULOUS trip report - I have printed every word and thrown it in my Italy file :-) Thank you so much for sharing all of your photos as well - you have a great deal of talent as a photographer!
So, where are y'all headed next? We're looking at Greece for next May.
Thanks again for posting such a great report!
Jill

Hi again, Jill --

Thank you so much. =) I'm so glad you started writing yours when you did, as well, since it ended up being a big help! I can't wait to hear how your trip ended. Also, do you plan on posting any photos?

As for our next trip, I think we're heading to London/Paris or London/Ireland next spring or fall. It will depend on whether or not we can break our Italy addiction. I have been to London loads of times, but the last visit was over five years ago, so I need to get back! Too bad our Italian won't come in handy there, though. ;)

Again, thank you for your nice comments. - Heather.

Hi Heather. Great report. We are travelling to Italy next spring and your comments have been very helpful. Was there a reason you didn't get a guide for the Vatican Museums? From this site I've almost got the impression that you can't enjoy them without a guide. Will be interested to hear your perspective.

Hi Rick -- We decided not to get a guide for a few reasons. Combining my previous visits and the in-depth DK guide we had, I thought we could tackle it. We were also looking to save a bit of money when possible and decided to place priority on the Colosseum and Forum. Hope that helps! Enjoy your trip... - h.

Heather, I have a question about Alla Botte in Venice. Does this type of place with tapas-style food have a menu? If not, did you ask what the prices of each item would be? Just wondering, after reading LoveItaly's story of her SIL getting scammed at a Rome restaurant where the waiter recommended specials and he didn't ask the price, which turned out to be very high.
Also, does this type of place take reservations, or do you even need one?

Hi Susan -- If you're not familiar with cichetti at the bars in Venice, let me try to explain better. To answer your first question, there are no menus posted. Basically, the food is on display behind the counter so you go up to the bar and point out what you want. If you don't know what you're looking at, the barman will be happy to tell you what each item is. The prices vary (mainly based on whether or not you choose vegetables or meat). We generally like to order a mixed plate and the cost can range from E10-18 total depending on how many items you choose.

Alla Botte, in particular, does serve meals, as well, in its back room. These options and the pricing are posted in that room.

Here is an article that might help explain cichetti even more:
http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/desti...y/nlpubven.htm

From our personal experiences with these bars, we have not been taken advantage of in any way. We made sure to pay with cash for all of our meals to avoid any hidden conversion charges you may have read about.

Also, no reservations are necessary when you're out for cichetti. They open early and generally fill up closer to traditional Italian eating time. Let me know if you have any other questions. - h.

Thanks, Heather, I do completely understand what cichetti is, I just wondered if you knew what the price was of what you were choosing. It sounds like it's going to be reasonable whatever you choose. I appreciate the info, Alla Botte sounds like a place I would enjoy, and I'm staying very near it.

Hi Susan -- Glad to hear it. I can't wait to hear how your experience is. The atmosphere was very laid-back and the food delicious. Enjoy!

What a terrific, thorough report! Thanks for sharing it!

Hi SusanP, I just noticed your post regarding my Roman born and raised in Rome SIL. He was in a nontouristy section of Rome and he and my DD went to a restaurant where he had known the owner all his life. But the restaurant had been sold although he saw and talked to the previous owner.

There was a grilled meat dish on the menu which my SIL ordered. Then the owner came over and started suggesting &quot;instead of this meat I suggest this meat etc&quot;. My SIL was tired and stressed due to the family problems they had gone to Rome to try to help with. Everything sounded good to my SIL. But when the bill came the substitutions caused the restaurant bill to be something like 400% more (not really sure at this point) then the dish was priced at on the menu.

One of those &quot;ripoff cases&quot; that made my SIL so mad because he is a native of Italy. He was mad at himself because he was to tired to ask the owner &quot;and what is the difference in price&quot;.

It is good to be careful but I sure don't want anyone to think that everywhere in Italy restaurants will pull this scam.

The only time I have experienced something that was upsetting was in Florence. My late DH ordered some wine and the waiter suggested a different bottle. My DH said alright. The bottle of wine was something like 90 lira compared to the 10 lira that he originally ordered. And we didn't even like the wine, LOL.

So just a &quot;heads up&quot; to find out what one is ordering. Have a wonderful time in Italy, I am sure you will.

LoveItaly, I had read your whole story of what happened to your SIL, that's why I asked the question. I realize that not every restaurant is trying to scam the customers, just wondered if Heather knew the price of what she was ordering. I know I will have a great trip!

Gosh Susan, sounds like I irritated you. Sorry if I did as that certainly was not my intention. Best wishes.

LoveItaly, No, you didn't irritate me! Sorry if it came across that way! I guess in the back of my mind, I was thinking that I wished you knew you didn't have to take the trouble to tell the story again, as that would have saved you the bother. Of course, you didn't know I was thinking that! I appreciate your warning, though, that's something to be aware of, always ask the price of something being offered.

Found your HM trip report to be extremely insightful. I particularly found your digital photo paragraph to be an invaluable nugget of information. Was searching the market for a decent storage device for the numereous pix I intend to take. Didn't realize the iPod can store pix as well; more reason to buy one after all.
Since my wife would like to spend a couple nights in Amalfi area on the way to Rome, your report is quite handy in that regard as well. Is parking an issue in Positano? (ie, long trek to the hotels?)

Thanks again.
ALPS

First rate report, H.

Thanx for sharing.

((I))

Wonderful report hlocke1. Thank you. I'm in the planning stages for a summer '06 trip w/ our 2 daughters ( ages 10 &amp; 15 ). I have booked a room at Albergo California. I've wondered if I should consider staying down closer to the beach w/ the girls. They are good natured kids who like to explore but I'm just wondering if they will get frustrated w/ the stairs. We'll be there (4) nights. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Hi Alps -- Since I wrote this, Apple has gotten rid of all non-photo ipods and lowered the price a bit. Beside storing the photos during the trip, being able to show a slideshow via our TV once we came home was really nice, as well. Just to note, we did have to buy an AV cable to do so. Plus, I forgot to mention the best part - you can sync the slideshow to music. =) As far as parking in Positano goes, I can't comment. We took the buses and ferries. Maybe someone else can help? Enjoy your trip!

Liyoung - I think your daughters will be fine. The steps aren't too bad and you get to walk along a lovely path covered with flowers and lined with adorable shops the entire way. And, gelato is waiting at the bottom of the steps. ;) Also, I wouldn't trade the view from the California for anything. Have a lovely trip!

Ira - Your advice was very helpful while we were planning, so thank you!

Parking in Positano:

Our experience goes back to 1998, when we arrived by car and stayed at the Villa Franca. We were able to drop off our bags at the front door, and then they offered valet parking for an additional 25,000 Lire per day, which at the time was $14. As I recall, when we took the car out, we usually didn't use the valet service. It was easier to just walk to the lot, a few minutes walk, to pick up the car. Of course, this was seven years ago, so the price of the parking may have changed, or even the location of the lots.

When you inquire of the hotels you are considering, ask them each about the parking situation and cost.

- Larry

Just when you thought it was over...

<b>TRAVEL INSURANCE</b>

I didn't fully comment on our delayed luggage situation because I wanted to see the final outcome. We secured travel insurance through CSA (www.csatravelprotection.com) before leaving since we were travelling with 2 cameras and an iPod (see &quot;Digital Photography&quot; above). Although none of these items needed the coverage in the end and returned home fine, we were quite glad to have the plan. When one of our bags was delayed in Naples (see &quot;Flights&quot; above), my DH was left w/o a change of clothes in expensive Positano. Luckily, our plan covered baggage loss and baggage delay. While the bag was missing for 3 days, we were able to buy two shirts, pants, and a belt, knowing that we would be reimbursed for these &quot;emergency&quot; items. We kept the receipts and charged what we could for proof of purchase. When we returned home, we filled out the appropriate paperwork and received a check for the full amount today - less than a month later. Needless to say, we are pleased with the outcome b/c there were no questions asked and no hassles. We spent around $50 for this coverage and ending up reimbursed for over $200 in items.

Hope this helps anyone contemplating the value of travel insurance... -- h.

Heather - Your report is outstanding. I can't get over your pictures; you are a wonderful photographer and really captured Italy - what great memories! I would love to put some online with my Trip Report also, but am not sure I could make a webpage that looks so great!

Thanks for the travel insurance post. We just got our tickets for Greece this coming spring and I am definitely going to look into it. Appreciate the link :-)

I've only half-finished your report and only viewed your Venice photos so far, but I have to echo everyone's words here-- your report is wonderful and your photos are OUTSTANDING! DH and I are both photographers, and I would be proud to have taken the shots that you've taken. They are beautifully composed and your use of ambient light is far more creative than the usual tourist shots. I look forward to viewing the rest.
Paule

tra6 and progol - Thank you so much for the kind words about the photos. I really appreciate it... but, it's hard to take a bad pic in such a beautiful setting! =)

TexasAggie -- How exciting about Greece! I hope I can keep up with you and get back overseas again next year. I'd better start researching. ;)

Heather, loved your photos! We'll be in Positano Sept 28-Oct 2 and then Rome, Tuscany, Florence, Rome (17 nites total)and appreciated your trip report, and will no doubt follow in your footsteps! A question: What kind of bag is your DH carrying? Did you carry one as well? I usually do all the huffing of day packs but my DH will do his part on this trip! We both have cameras (his is digital, mine regular) and he is a real good photg. I'll still use a regular backpack (with money belt tho for safety)for clothing, maps, water, etc. Your input will be very helpful. Congrats on #1 anniv! We'll toast you when we're at La Tagliata

Hi katerbug --

Thank you for the nice post! =) It sounds like you have a great trip planned. Can't wait to hear all about it. We went to Tuscany last year, but are hoping to delve deeper into that area in the near future.

Anyhow, my DH usually carries our day bag. I only handle the camera (and maybe some bottled water) b/c I have minor issues with one of my shoulders. We have an over-the-shoulder, unisex bag from Fossil called the &quot;Tribe Top zip bag&quot;. It's been very reliable for several years now, has secure pockets, and seems to be waterproof. It's not huge, but can fit my digital SLR, an extra lens, a book or two, maps, etc. Very stretchy! Here is a link (but you can also find it by typing &quot;shoulder bag&quot; in Fossil's search engine):

http://www.fossil.com/shopping/produ...d=shoulder+bag

I hope that helps. Again, enjoy your trip! It sounds amazing... please post pics when you return! -- Heather.

Hlocke1-I found your bag within 30 seconds of reading your post! THX! It is priced great and looks great too. My DH is concerned about having anything over-the-shoulder for fear of thief slicing the strap to steal it and slice up his/my body in the process. He read a horror story to that effect online recently. I however still feel that we'll be relatively safe if we're just keen on our surroundings and try to be organized with all our stuff-or carry less! But I think I'll get one. Did you order online or find it at the mall, Macys' or? Thanks so much! Katy

While it may seem like jumping on a (long since departed) bandwagon, I have to add belatedly that I don't there has ever been a trip report that is on par with this one. Even if for no other reason than its &quot;skimmability&quot;, it ought to be nominated for best trip reprt EVER, bar none.

If you are auditioning for a position as a contributor to Fodors (in print) and they elect not to talk with you further... then that settles it, there is no hope for any of the rest of us to ever work for them!

Best wishes,

Rex

p.s. and a hug thank you to worldinabag for putting this thread back into the spotlight (on another thread).

hlocke1-Duh katy! There is a Fossil store at South Coast Plaza here in Orange County! And they have it in stock!

Hi again, katerbug -- Glad to hear you've had luck finding it. As far as slashing the strap goes, the strap is so thick that I think a robber would have to be wielding a pretty major weapon to cut through it. Your DH will be fine. When you see how the pockets are laid out, you'll see it's a pretty thief-proof bag overall. Good luck! - h.

Rex - wow! What a nice compliment. Especially enjoying the props for &quot;skimmability&quot;. ;) Thanks! - h.

ttt--for inspiration

One of the best trip reports.