Katerbug

ttt

travelphile

ttt... not listed on the 'Italy' board

Ralstonlan

knoxvillecouple- I booked this several months in advance, and at the time they had a summer special on their website for a limited number of rooms. I consider myself extremely fortunate.

Ralstonlan

August 30 Day 6

We got up very early, 6:30 , as we wanted to get to Como to make the 2:00 hydrofoil to Bellagio and were allowing plenty of room for error. We went to the Gabbio D’Oro’s beautiful breakfast room. We had heard some much about their fabulous breakfast spread, that I was really looking forward to it. When it is not opera season, breakfast is included in the price of the room. This being the heart of Verona’s summer opera season, they charge 23E per person. Most definitely not worth the price. It was no better than our other hotels breakfast, all which included breakfast. Live and learn.

The hotel had already brought the car around for us, as they knew we wanted to depart early, so we loaded up and set off for Como. The hardest part of getting to Como was getting out of Verona! After a few circles around the one way streets, we headed to the river and finally crossed the bridge and were on our way. Again, except for the sometimes daunting autostrada, we had no problems getting there. Found the train station and dropped off the car. Quick and easy. We took a cab to the ferry station, which is only about a mile away. We made such good time that we were able to get on the 12:15 Hydrofoil. Tickets are sold right at the dock, 27E, for the three of us. This was our second time in Lake Como, the first being 14 years ago. It is breathtakingly beautiful. Magical. The air is clean and crisp, the colors are haunting. The ride on the hydrofoil was a lot of fun. You are literally waterskiing up the lake. In a too short 45 minutes we were at the dock in Bellagio. This was my husband’s wish, to spend his 50th birthday in Bellagio.

We walked across the street, pulling our luggage, (I did manage to keep our luggage to one 22" roller each, and one carry on with the camera equipment), and arrived at the Hotel Florence.
Before even giving the receptionist our name, she excitingly whispered to me”Should I send the champagne right up?”. She was wonderful during our entire stay. A few minutes later, she brought us up to our rooms. We had booked what they call a Jr. Suite, but it was actually 2 connecting rooms. When she opened the door, I just gasped. It was perfect. Large, almost floor to high ceiling glass doors that opened in to reveal a little balcony, with incredible views of Lake Como. It could not have been better. There was a single room attached, with its own little balcony, right on the lake, and a third set of doors with a third balcony. The cross breezes were perfect. DH husband was very happy, just what he had hoped for. (By the way, only 250E per night, taxes and breakfast included. Rooms 44(small single) and 45 (king).

We uncorked the champagne, pulled our chairs over to the balcony, cut up some of the fruit they had provided for us and let out a wonderful sigh. We were in heaven. We relaxed and enjoyed ourselves so long that we had forgotten about lunch, until DS reminded us that he was starving.

We had hoped to have lunch at the Hotel Florence’s outdoor restaurant on the lake, but were too late so we set out to find something open. This didn’t take long as there was a charming outdoor place around the corner and half way up the first “salita”. We had a “light” lunch of fresh parpadelle with fresh sauteed porcini for DH and I, and DS opted for another pizza. All was yummy. I can’t get enough porcini mushrooms.

We stopped back to the hotel to gather cameras and set off to walk to the end of the promontory, “Punta Spartivento”. This is the very tip of Bellagio, where the lake splits itself into three branches. What an inspiring view. If you have never been to Lake Como, GO!!!! There truly is a magical power here. We fantasized about perhaps swimming here the next day, but never got the chance. The water looked so refreshing and it can’t be any colder than we are used to in the Northeast!

From there we walked to Piazza San Giacomo to visit DS’s researched church, Basilica San Giacomo. The highlight of this church, built of Romanesque architecture, was the wooden sculpture of the “Buried Christ”. Really quite moving. Onward on Via Garibaldi we walked to St. George’s Chapel and I heard DS mutter softly, “Oh man, not another church”. He has been a wonderful traveler and an incredibly good sport, but I need to remember that he’s just a kid. We took a quick peek into the chapel, which dates to the 11th and early 12th centuries, and I knew it was time for an emergency gelato stop. Before we got back to the hotel I had a dangerous purse sighting. There will be more on that later. Then it was definitely time to go back to our beautiful rooms so DH can nap, DS can play Game Boy, and I can write in my journal. Just sitting in this wonderful spot is vacation.

I had made reservations at the hotel’s restaurant, just across the street on the lake. It was a perfect evening to sit outside and watch the sun go down behind the mountains. Dinner was fabulous. First was a salad of fresh greens with chopped chestnuts and thinly sliced raw porcini.
Perfection. Next was a lasagna of wide chestnut noodles layered with braised cabbage and three cheeses. This was the first time I saw DS (and DH for that matter) enjoy cabbage. It was wonderful. DS had duck cooked with balsamic vinegar, DH , the venison, and I had seared fresh scallops. Excellent! Can’t give a price as we put it on the room, and I didn’t even look!

We came back to the room to catch up on the progress of Hurricane Katrina. We had been following the news every day and I was feeling so guilty about the lavish life we were leading, while there was so much suffering going on at home. My heart goes out to everyone affected. We have been talking about what we will do to help when we return. I promise nothing else in this report that is not upbeat.

sherhatfield

Ralstonlan: I am enjoying reading your report! DH & I leave next week for Venice and we are staying in the Dosoduro area. I would love to know the name and/or location of the little wine bar your husband found where they filled your bottle with their house Pinot Grigio for 3 E.

Thanks also for the tip about the St. Marks Basilica reservation website. Will they let you bring your camera in with you, as long as you don't use it? What about a purse? I only ask because their website says no bags of any kind are allowed inside.

Thanks!

Canuck_girl24

Ralstonlan-Your reports are great. Just a quick question...How long did you spend in the Ca d'Oro and Ca Rezzonico? I'm planning on attending both and my patience is similar to your DS!

Ralstonlan

sherhatfield-- Thank you for your comments. The wine bar is located on Maravegie Fond. Pruilli , on the eastern side of Rio San Trovaso. It is about a 1-2 minute walk from the Accademia bridge. As far as St. Mark's goes, I carried a small shoulder bag with me, with my digital camera and had no problem. I think they are mainly concerned with back packs, etc.

Ralstonlan

Canuck_girl24 - Glad you are enjoying the report. We spent about an hour in each place, if that. Both DH and I could have spent longer, but were happy to keep moving to keep DS interested and more importantly, happy.

travelphile

You're a good story teller Ralstonlan - we don't know how long you have left in your trip or how many more cities you will visit!

You've convinced me Ca Rezzonico must be a stop for our three day visit next month.

Question - could you actually see anything from the hydrofoil? If yes, did you sit in front or back? I don't remember being able to view the shores on Garda and am wondering if there is a difference depending on where you sit. We're also headed to Bellagio next month!

Thanks for the great report... Travelphile

Ralstonlan

Travelphile-- We could see everything from the hydrofoil. We were not able to sit in the front, but there were plenty of windows in the main cabin with wonderful views. Enjoy! Bellagio is wonderful.

Ralstonlan

August 31 Day 7

Although this trip was to celebrate DH’s 50th birthday, my birthday is today.. (His is tomorrow)
Of course, I have many more years until 50 (2!). There was a knock on the door around 9:00 and I opened it to find a beautiful breakfast complete with a mimosa. What a nice surprise. Poor DH had forgotten to order something for himself and DS , but the breakfast was actually enough for the three of us. Eggs, meats, cheeses, fruit, yogurt, juice and coffee. The morning mist over the lake is beautiful, although we look forward to it burning off. Shortly after breakfast there was another knock on the door, this time an absolutely stunning bouquet of flowers. The colors in the arrangement all matched the fabrics in the room. I’ve never seen yellow calla lilies before. What a wonderful way to start a birthday.

We finally got going and took the 11:30 ferry to Tremezzo to visit the gardens of Villa Carlotta. It is only about a 10-15 minute ride across the lake. They must be spectacular in the spring when everything is in bloom. We walked around the gardens for about an hour, DS taking LOTS of photos. I never knew he was interested in botany! The cactus garden was of particular interest to him , as it was so unusual. I didn’t know the climate in Bellagio could support the varieties of cacti. The Villa itself in now a national museum and wonderful to see, but it is the gardens that are the highlight.

We took the ferry back to Bellagio to shop, but it was afternoon siesta and most everything was closed. I did go to pay the purse I had seen a visit. I paid my respects to the almighty purse, and went back to our room to think about it some more. DH had brought a bottle of wine back with him, so we sat and enjoyed our room and the view while DS played, you guessed it, Game Boy.

Earlier this morning, DH had noticed several paintings drying on the terrace below us. Before we left for the day, I had asked the front desk if they would be so kind as to get a message to the people staying in the room. We were hoping to see their paintings, if it was not inconvenient for them. They replied and were happy to have us come by at 6:00 that evening. Bottle of wine in hand, we knocked on their door and after a few minutes conversation, I realized that the gentleman was someone I had known when I was 19, and an artist’s apprentice in the same town!
We had a lot of common painting friends, including my now brother-in-law! They now live on the west coast. We had a wonderful time with them, and convinced her to sell one of her oil sketches of Bellagio.

We had a reservation at Bilacus for dinner, so we said our good-byes and went off. About half way up Salita Serbelloni, we found the restaurant. Charming place. We shared their house appetizer which was an assortment of meats, salmon, vegetables and cheeses. Next course we shared a pesto pasta dish that was O.K. Not very remarkable. DS had spaghetti with a wonderfully fresh pomodoro sauce, I had fresh lake trout, DH had deer. Very reasonable prices, only 80E for the three of us, but the food was mediocre.

A wonderful birthday. Tomorrow DH turns 50!

Ralstonlan

Sept. 1 Day 8

Happy 50th DH!! DS and I had managed to slip off the day before to do some surprise birthday shopping for Dad. DS picked out a leather wallet and a silk Versace tie! Dad was very pleased with his gifts. It was a glorious morning, and I had planned a day of indulgences for DH.
We ate a very light breakfast, as the day was to revolve around eating! After a walk around Bellagio, we got ready to board the ferry for DH’s surprise lunch.

I hadn’t told him where we were going or what we were doing, so he was quite pleased when after a 40 minute ferry ride, we got off on Lake Como’s only island, Isola Comacina.
We were having lunch at Locanda dell’Isola Comacina , www.comacina.it .They have been serving the same menu since 1947, and it is wonderful. We were seated promptly, given a bottle of wine, and each served a slice of tomato with a slice of lemon, while they prepared to bring our antipasto. After setting up another table next to us, they brought nine bowls filled with various marinated vegetables and a plate of ham and salted dried beef. We tried to pace ourselves, but everything was delicious. Even DS was trying vegetables he would not ordinarily eat. Next course was fresh grilled trout, boned at the table.

By now we are thinking we can’t possibly eat another bite and they bring the chicken course! Served with a simple salad, it was delicious.

Now on our second bottle of wine (they automatically replace it if you finish the first!), comes a chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and dessert. Freshly sliced oranges in an orange liquor sauce with vanilla gelato.

As if this isn’t enough, our host performs a ceremony at the end of the meal for all the patrons. He burns brandy in a large pot, adding sugar and coffee as he goes, while telling the history of the island. 54E per person. It is a lot of fun and the island is beautiful.

We had been there for almost three hours, but had about 45 minutes to walk around the island and explore , before taking the ferry back to Bellagio. We had a lovely ferry ride back and met a family from Toronto. They invited DS to go swimming later that day with their children, but he declined. His shyness got the better of him.

After a brief visit to the purse, we went bak to the room to rest up for dinner! Hardly can believe we will eat again, but this was a special day , after all!

We met our new friends, the artists , for a drink before dinner to receive the painting and pay them for it. We enjoyed them so much, I hope we can stay in touch. It is always such fun to meet new friends while traveling, even ones you had met years before.

Dinner was at Villa Serbelloni on their terrace. “La Terrazza”. What a gorgeous spot this is. The villa, the music and the view all added up to feeling like we were in the middle of our own movie. It was a perfect setting. The food was spectacular. If you can stand hearing another dinner menu, read on. Sheep’s milk ricotta in a tomato coulis for starters. DS chose the primi for us to share, spaghetti con vongole veraci, (with true clams). This was the lightest, freshest clam sauce I’ve ever had, and I thought mine was good! DS had roast chicken and if there was ever a perfect chicken this was it. DH had baby lamb chops, soft as butter. I had poached eggs on grey mullet Perfect!

The restaurant surprised DH with dessert, a beautiful chocolate mousse cake, complete with candles and violins! I did not arrange this, I wouldn’t have. I know this isn’t the kind of attention DH enjoys, but we got quite a chuckle out of it and DS thought it was great. This was a perfect birthday dinner and DH was very happy.

By the way dinner was a bargain ,175E, and one of the most perfect meals of the trip.

travelphile

More please! (does the Island serve dinner? I've only read of lunch.)

Ralstonlan

Travelphile- Yes, they do both lunch and dinner, same menu. Go to their website www.comacina.it and it will give you all the info you need and some great photos.

Delirious

This is better than most guidebooks. What a wonderful way of writing you have. Give us more.

candert

Ralstonlan - I'm really enjoying your trip report. Thanks for all the details. When I read that you were going to Lake Como I was really hoping that you were going (went) to Locanda dell’Isola Comacina. We went there last September. What a fun eating experience! I can still envision and taste that hunk of Parmigiano Reggiano. So gritty and good!

BTW - I see DH and DS often in these reports. I get the H-husband and S-Son, but what's the D for? Or am I way off?

missypie

I'm loving your report. I'd like to take our kids (14, 12 and 9)to Italy next summer if we can find a 10 day-2 week block of time.

Not to get too personal, but it seems like you were willing to pay A LOT of money for meals. Do you typically eat at very pricey restaurants, or was this a "we're in Italy" splurge? Since you were with an 11 year old, I'm assuming that these weren't "fancy" (formal) places, although I could be wrong. Was everything just really expensive, or were you eating at all the "best" places?

Having just returned, would you advise others to budget for 50-100 euro per person per meal to eat well in Italy? Do you think you could have had as good a time as you did while eating at "lesser" restaurants?

There are five of us, and I think my husband would just about die if our meals averaged around 300 euro each.

tower

Your writing is clear, concise and very descriptive. Excellent journal..and I will read all of it. However, I am sitting here aghast at your recounting of meal costs..incredible. My passion has always been travel, and I have touched everywhere in this world in my seven decades, and Italy has always been been one of my top destinations, most recently last spring. I daresay that my wife and I love good food and what better place than Italy...but, to pay more for dinner than for your hotel room is something that is not at all necessary in Italy (even with three people!)...the thousands of reasonable ristorantes and the wonderfful mom and pop trattorias everywhere make it so. I would say your expenditure for dinners, especially, are totally outrageous, even with the strong Euro. There is not one tiny corner of Italy that I haven't visited where the finest dishes weren't readily available at delightful and most memorable ristorantes.....at far, far more reasonable prices (by the way, last spring the Euro was at 1.29).
I'm sure you must be able to afford it, but you've been had, my dear......I'm willing to bet that the vast majority of this forum wouldn't even think about paying 150E's per person. Have fun...but think about it.
SFT

tower

P.S. Ralstonlan....I see you're from Boston area...two months ago we were in the fabulous North End (I'm originally from Quincy, but have lived in California for the last 47 years)...we ate at Bricco..excellent..our superb dinner for two with wine came out to 80$ with tip...am I missing something in your spending 312E's, 175 E's, 240E's for dinners (and 187 E's for lunch)..my 'o my...for the poster above, pay heed to my letters...no, you don't have to copy Ralstonlan in her expenditures for food..no way!And the 480E's ($600)for a hotel room! Ridiculous. Study and reserach, my dear, study and research before you go.
SFT

SusanP

Gee, tower, lighten up! Why should you care what Ralstonlan spends on meals? They obviously enjoy high-end restaurants and can afford to eat at them, so it's really none of your business how much they spend on their vacation. I like it when people tell what they spent on a meal, because then I know whether or not I can afford to go to that restaurant. And if people can only afford one big splurge on a meal, this report would give them great ideas on where to do so.

Ralstonlan, keep it coming!