the turnip

Rome, the Eternal City. The 1st thing that struck me about Rome was the idea of these 2000 year old magnificent monuments and buildings trying to co-exist with a living, breathing (coughing) city. The uneasy truce between the two . <BR> <BR> We had only 3 and a half days to see Rome. I know, I know. That’s not nearly enough time to do it justice. However, living in the “land of the free” and our paltry 2 to 3 weeks of vacation time means you gotta do what you gotta do. 3 and half days is better than none at all. Anyway, with our brief time we tried to fit in as much as we reasonably could. A few quick thoughts about travelers and Rome. <BR> <BR>1. We felt safe everywhere we went. Heard and read lots about pick pockets, gypsies, etc. and saw NONE of it. I’m nor saying it isn’t there, just that we no problems what-so-ever. We often walked around late after dinner with no problem. I even went out by myself rather late one night to take some pictures when there would be few tourists. Again, no trouble. There were policeman all over the place! Even the main train station was clean, bright and well patrolled. <BR> 2. Cabs were cheap and easy. We had 3 people in our party so it was perfect. They seldom ran more than $5 a trip and were a great time and feet saver. <BR>2. If you want to fit in wear black, gray or beige. If you really want to fit in, smoke while wearing dark colors. If you really, really want to fit in, talk on a cell phone while smoking in your dark colored clothing. You get the idea. <BR> 3. People are always asking about where to eat. We tried the book “Cheap Eats in Italy” and were very disappointed. Inaccurate, outdated (it was the most recent edition) and hard to locate her suggestions. My suggestion is to ask at your hotel. They’ll know the good spots to eat and best of all the places will be close to you and easy to get to. We were never disappointed when asking a local where to eat. <BR> <BR>We used the Rome B&B association to find us a room and it worked great. Our room was roughly a 15 minute, 75 cent tram ride into town. Once there most destinations were a 10 minute walk or $5 cab ride away. Our host Enzo was friendly and helpful. For about $100 a night we had two bedrooms, one bathroom, a living room and a terrace. There were several casual yet very good restaurants nearby. At night the area was very quiet which was great for sleeping. Our host Enzo Giusti told us it’s cheaper if you contact him directly, which you are welcome to do. His number is 011 39 06 58201635. He was happy to make reservations at restaurants and museums for us . He also had several good suggestions for places to eat and things to see. (He spoke excellent English) <BR> <BR>The city was incredible. We saw the Forum, the Coliseum, the Pantheon, Villa Borgehese, Saint Peters <BR>Cathedral, The Vatican museum, the Sistine Chapel, a huge flea market, the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, <BR>Piazzo Navona, and so much more. I think you could spend a month in Rome and really have only scratched the surface. Do I wish we could have spent more time there? Yes, but to do so would have meant taking time away from other places we wanted to see. Plus, being a small town kind of person, I can only take so much of the big bustling cities before going nuts. Make no mistake about it - Rome is a big, crazy, swirling, honking, exhausting and full of exhaust city. <BR> <BR>One of the highlights of our stay in Rome was the tours we took. There has been quite a bit of discussion here in the travel forum about using guides. Some are for, others against. For me the idea of being on a tour bus with 50 other tourists and being lead from spot to spot isn’t very appealing. However, having a knowledgeable and well informed person to explain and enliven certain spots is a real plus. I looked into several tour companies before leaving, but had real trouble contacting them once we arrived in Rome. Our first stop was the Coliseum and we had read in Rick Steves guide book that students gave free tours there to promote their other tours. We looked all over. No students giving tours. Sigh. So we got in line and eventually started talking with the people behind us in line. A young man from Brussels and his friend from Chicago who both currently live in Rome, were showing their friends visiting from NYC the coliseum. Turns out they had been tour guides but due to extreme taxation (56%) were no longer affiliated with the tour company. They said we were welcome to tag along as they explained things to their friends. Two minutes in it was plain these guys knew their stuff. I had done quite a bit of reading about the Coliseum and they touched on much of what I had read but then added so much more. By the time they had explained some of the more gruesome details of the arena I was almost ready for the vomitorium myself! They had a group of at least 20 people tagging along by the time they were done. They didn’t ask for a thing in return but I enjoyed myself so much I wanted to tip them . They didn’t turn me down. The young gentleman were named Jasper and Kevin I asked them where to find a good guide. They recommended someone to look for at the Forum and said they would show us around the Vatican if we liked. We readily agreed and met Jasper at the Vatican two days later. He didn’t want to be paid but we asked him how much he usually received for tours. His tour took us through Saint Peter’s, into the museum and all the way to the Sistine Chapel. Including our stop for lunch it was around 6 hours! I can’t begin to tell how much more I got out of the visit by having a guide along. Jasper’s love of the old masters and sculpture just shone through in his explanations. Instead of just room after room of dark oil paintings were discovered all sorts of new things and gained a greater appreciation for the artwork. Two thumbs way in for Jasper (coliseum joke). At the end of our tour we could have said thanks and walked away. He literally did not ask to be paid. Honest. We tipped him 50,000 lira (about $25) a person and he was happy with that. It was the best spent $25 of the whole trip. If you want you can reach Jasper at the following e-mail; [email protected] If you’re a “do-it yourselfer” trip planner like me, you may want to add his services to your trip plans. <BR> <BR>We loved Rome and the glimpses into ancient history it offered. If you have any questions please feel free to ask away. <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>

Lenore

Thanks Turnip <BR> <BR>For your info. Found it very useful and will help in planning my trip to Rome. <BR>In Rome, especially, there are so many things to do , soooo many things to see, and so many ways in how to do it, that it starts to get confusing in what to choose. This is my first trip to Italy and I'm trying to work-up my own itinerary. I'll be starting up in Lake Como(hopefully) and working my way down to Rome which will be my last stop. <BR>thanks. <BR>Lenore

howard

Thank you, thank you, thank you, Turnip for reviving fond memories of our trip six months ago. It sounded so much like our trip that we felt we were along with you! Eagerly awaits, Parts 2, 3, etc.

Lottie

Thanks, turnip! But where did you stay? And what restaurants did you eat at that you liked? Tell us more!

Mary

Thanks for the great information. Your message is exaactly what I'm looking for through this forum. Can't wait to hear the rest..... Did you go to any other cities?

Debi

I loved your post! We also just got back from Europe - and my opinion of Rome was exactly the same as yours. We did do some tours - got lucky with some great tour guides - as well as doing some things on our own. Felt safe - we were probably walking around taking pictures at the same time!! We were also there 3 days - and I could kick myself for not thinking about it and staying longer! We ended our trip with 2 1/2 days in Athens - and I would have much rather spent another day or two in Rome..... It is the most amazing thing to sit on something in the Coliseum where gladiators had been.... Makes us in the US look like little young pups!! In Rome specifically, everything was so touchable. I loved it!

Karen Mayeaux

I read your message on travel in Rome, Italy. Your advice is noted. I am going to travel to Italy in May/June of 2001 with my family (myself, husband, 9 year old daughter and 17 year old cousin). We are a "do-it-yourself" travel family and have had good results so far. We have quite a few travel miles under our belts (England, France and Belgium are our latest adventures) and are looking for travel tips for Italy, specifically Rome and on southward to Amalfi, Capri, Naples, Sicily and the like. How is the rail system? Do you suggest a rental car? What do you suggest along the lines of attire? Cuisine is not much of a problem, we will dine on just about anything. Any helpful hints for the travelling mom would be appreciated. <BR> <BR>Thanks, <BR>Karen

Maira

Great report! Thanks for taking the time. Very practical, useful info. <BR> <BR>A comment on local guides. We used local guides at Pompeii and at the Alhambra. Definitely recommend you pay if you can find one. The guide at Pompeii stood by the ticket booth at Pompeii, we agreed on a price and out we went. This man was not only an excellent narrator, but he knew the site very well. He also knew all the guards and took us into spots and sites not open yet to the public (all done in a safe manner, by the way). The guide at the Alhambra was a local college student. She knew the place inside out and was a delight to listen to. Worth every penny.

the turnip

Karen, in regards to the ease of train travel and what to wear see an earlier post of mine. If only I could remember the title. Try a search for "turnip trip 2000" and see if it kicks it up. <BR> <BR>Normally we drive but decided in Italy to go back to using the trains adn IMHO it was definately the way to go. The travel would have been twice as stressful with a car. The trains were exceedingly (sp?) easy and tickets were cheap. We bought tickets as we went and I brought along a print-out of the schedules for the days we wanted to travel. You can go to the Italian railways website as your trip gets nearer for exact times. Plus if you have group of 3 tell them you're family and you get a sizeable discount. <BR> <BR>Dress for comfort and with leave your jeans and shorts home. Black, beige and grey were most common. Be sure to have your shoulders and knees covered for churches. <BR> <BR>If I can be of any assitance please feel free to ask. I received so much good advice from this forum I'll be delighted to try and help a fellow traveler.

Jeffry

Thanks "turnip"! When and what is the next installment?

topper

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