Italy itinerary help please - omit Venice, add Ferrara?
 

I am planning an 11 night trip to Italy in the beginning of May, for myself and husband. He has never been there before, and I was only in Florence briefly several decades ago.

He loves visiting museums and seeing the "big" sights. I like that too, in small doses. But I prefer just walking and getting a feel for an area, or watching from a sidewalk cafe. I also like mixing big city with less urban, when possible. We usually manage quite well by compromising. (In Paris, one day he went to the Louvre and I just walked around the city for 9 hrs straight. Most of the rest of the time we spent together, and we were both happy.) We both don't like to be too rushed, and prefer to have at least 3 days in a place (but I don't think that will be possible this trip - we will have to do some 2 nights).
This is the problem. There is so much we want to see here!

So far I have:
1 - Milan (just first evening because we are flying in here late, from US west coast)
2, 3, 4, 5 - open
6, 7, 8 - Florence
9,10,11 - Rome (we will fly home from here)

I was thinking of Bologna for nights 4 and 5, because the science museum sounds interesting to us, we love food, and we have a reservation to see the Ducati motorcycle factory tour near there, on Day 5!

So that leaves nights 2 and 3. I wanted to go to Parma or Ferrera or somewhere like that (would love to see cheese being made!) But everyone tells us we can't skip Venice. From what I've read it sounds too crowded and not so appealing...I would rather drive (or train) through some smaller areas. But would we be foolish to skip Venice? Or is there any way to see it as a day trip, without being ridiculously rushed? Any insights would be most appreciated!

I would definitely not forgo Venice, it is IMHO a beautiful and unique city, there is really nothing like stepping off the train in Venice to be greeted by water taxis bobbing on the water!

I did this same trip a few years back in reverse: Rome > Florence > Venice and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Venice is fantastic for just wandering and exploring the back streets canals and interconnecting bridges. If your husband likes museums then he will love Florence home to 70 odd museums including the Uffizi (lots of Renaissance art) and the Accademia which houses Michaelangelo's David (pretty cool even if that's not your thing).

I would do an extra day in Florence and spend the rest in Venice, and forgo Parma/Ferrera unless you can add time to your trip.

I took the train everywhere and found it fast and efficient and that's improved considerably since my visit. I wouldn't do it any other way, given cheap Trenitalia fares and fast connections between the main cities.

I am another Venice-lover. Definitely go there; it may sink and you'll have lost a unique experience. And it is unique, to live in a city with no cars, no trucks, just the lapping of the canals. And the occasional speedboat. And Venice is beautiful, one of the few places that are more beautiful than its photos.

And you have to stay in the city, to fully enjoy it morning and evening after the daytrippers have gone. Though, hopefully early May isn't too busy. Strolling around Venice is the perfect form of sight-seeing there.

I'm not such a fan of Florence. It's more for aficionados of Renaissance art and architecture. And it gets pretty crowded also. So maybe you could drop a day there.

For a first time, I too would include Venice. And, I'd add a day to Rome, simply because it's larger-take it from Venice as there are plenty of museums to see in Florence. In my opinion, Venice will fulfill your walking, exploring needs. If you are anything like the rest of the Fodorites, you WILL return!

The people who don't like Venice are the types who take those 10-countries-in-15-days tours.

They stay in a horrible hotel in Maestre and are taken over to St. Mark's Square by a tour guide in the middle of the day when it is most crowded. They are then taken to a glass factory for shopping, then on to some terrible restaurant where a glass of wine is 13 euros. Or they are taken to Harry's Bar for a 15 euro Bellini.

Then it is back to the hotel to watch CNN or Sky News.

This is when you hear the complaints of "Venice smells," or "Venice is a rip-off tourist trap."

I could never imagine a Venice like that.

My husband and I are leaving for Venice at the end of May and we are staying TWO WEEKS!

Tschuss,
Pepper

"He loves visiting museums..." Then I wouldn't shorten your time in Florence. Two full days isn't much time for all the city offers. (Ditto just two full days in Rome.)

"I like mixing big city with less urban." Some may argue Venice has a less urban feel, but I think your idea of Bologna and Parma (or Ferrara) sounds perfect. This balances the preferences of both of you rather well.


FYI, we're also on the U.S. West Coast. Unless you're sure you'll be absolutely dead on your feet when you arrive or your flight into Milan lands late in the day, I would seriously consider going immediately to Parma by train without spending the night in Milan. I like Milan more than most people, but you're working with a short timeframe for what you want to see/do. I wouldn't rent a car unless you start thinking of seeing things not accessible by train.

Another vote for Venice - truly magical and unique, especially when you get away from the tourist hordes (which is easy to do). I would take a day from Venice and add it to Rome, 2 nights isn't nearly enough.

I would not skip Venice, but I found Ferrara to be only so-so compared to other cities in that area.

To whet your appetite:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...14405643/show/

I don't like Venice and I LIVE in Italy, so the information above trying to describe peole who don't like Venice is incorrect.

However, I doubt you will like Ferrara any better than Venice, and what "science museum in Bologna" are you talking about? Reading Jean's post, I wonder if she has ever been to Ferrara or Bologna. Both are cities. If you are going to the Ducati museum you also have time to take a cheese tour the same day if you plan carefully.

Venice is one of the least "urban" cities in Europe. It has no car traffic. It is half-water, half-sidewalks. It is more like being on a lake. (It is a lagoon). You will probably enjoy walking around Venice more than you enjoyed walking around Paris.

I suggest staying nights 2-5 in Venice and maybe hit the museum near Bologna on your way to Florence. The 4 nights in Venice will allow you to get over your jetlag, relax in a town with no cars, enjoy lots of interesting walks, visit an eclectic mix of museums and explore beautiful churches. Read up on the churches and the art that can be found inside them.

There is nothing like Venice- nothing. I find it to be a very relaxing city. All of the places you list will be crowded, but in Venice you can get away from the crowds by exploring areas off the main drags. If you like exploring unique beauty, facinating people & their traditions, and relaxing, Venice is for you.

(Sigh.) Yes, I've been to Bologna, Ferrara and Parma.

I think the science museum in Bologna may be inside the University of Bologna. We saw this museum (incompletely, I'm sure) as part of a larger tour of the university. There were many displays of antique scientific and medical instruments and many preserved specimens (not my thing) in a series of rooms.

We've been to the Ducati factory/museum twice. My husband owns a Ducati, so this is his idea of a perfect sightseeing stop. I enjoyed the Lamborghini factory/museum more, and it's not far away in Sant'Agata Bolognese.

As far as Ferrara and Parma goes, well, I say to each his/her own (and I'm sure there are reasons why the OP had them on the list). I enjoyed both for different reasons but Ferrara more. Lots of interesting architecture, a castle, a lovely Duomo, beautiful palazzi and a fairly long, well preserved medieval street. When we were there (October), tourist numbers were very low. Venice may very well be the least "urban" city in Europe, but the crowds won't make it seem that way. It's one of the top tourist destinations in the world.

FYI, Ferrara holds several events (flag-tossing, medieval costume parade, etc.) every weekend in May and a palio on (I think) the last Sunday of the month.

>>>>> I enjoyed both for different reasons but Ferrara more.

If you can rent a bicycle, and take it on your own terms, then Ferrara is a rare gem on a lost medieval tableau (great food and good accommodations at great prices too).

Venice rules, it its own way (I've been there 15 times), but if you want to chart out your own enchantment, then Ferrara is a fine little pleasure.

Thanks so much - I really appreciate all the helpful comments!

I'm now leaning towards including Venice. Too many people really like it, for us not to at least check it out for ourselves. Although, I am also getting the feeling it's hard to go wrong in Italy. The other choices sound quite appealing as well. May just have to make a return trip!

And I think we may be able to fit in a day trip from either Bologna or Florence, to an outlying area, if we want, and perhaps even the cheese tour, so I am okay with it.

Yes, the "science museum" in Bologna is the Museo di Palazzo Poggi, part of the University. (We are both health professionals, so preserved specimens and historical medical/scientific instruments sound very interesting to us! Also, I read they even have a section devoted to obstetrics, which is my specialty, so I definitely hope we get to go there.)

I chuckled at the description of the whirlwind tourists tour of Venice, because I live right by Venice, California and on my way to work, I often see a similar situation. Tour buses plopping people down for 10 minutes, at the worst time of day in the most obvious location, and they are disappointed because they don't get to see the real character and most appealing aspects of the area.

Michael - thank you for sharing those beautiful photographs!

Thanks again....

Whatever you do, don't miss the experience of Venice. It is unique among cities and I will never forget the amazing beauty seeing it for the first time from the water taxi. Each time we return, it is a new and exciting revalation. Go! We have been to Ferrrara, Bologna, Parma, Verona and others. Venice is so much more memorable than the others.

As for Florence, it is my favorite city in Italy. Don't reduce your time there - there is an amazing amount to see and do. I might be tempted to cut one day from Venice and add it to Rome.

Re preserved specimens: you can see Galileo's finger at the Galileo Museum in Florence.

nankie, I do believe you've hit the nail on the head about missing the real character of a place. And we debate endlessly on this forum about which end of the visiting spectrum is the most rewarding. Each person's travel enjoyment is his/her own, eh?

For DH and me, we didn't want to miss any of the famous places. They are usually famous for good reason, even if they have become overrun. We returned time and again to those places that "grabbed" us--as I hope you will.

I hope you don't miss Venice and that you are touched by its magic.

Will definitely look for Galileo's finger!

Here is another vote for Venice. My family did a similar trip a few years ago. We planned it so that after we landed in Milan, we went directly to the train station and caught the next train to Venice. You don't mention how late you get into Milan, but maybe this could be an option for you instead of staying in MIlan. It is about a 2 1/2 hour train ride.... plenty of time to rest up! :)

Our trip was 11 days and we did Venice, Rome, Florence and Siena. We spent 3 nights in Rome and did 2 nights everywhere else and we did a combo of train and car. We picked up the car for the last part of the trip (Siena,Cinque Terre) so we could explore Tuscany and drive up the coast on our way back to Milan. We could have easily spent another day in Rome. Overall you can't go wrong with any of these locations. I personally love Florence... very manageable city, and if your husband likes art, you have one of the best museums in the world right there ( Ufizi).

Just wanted to say thanks for all the responses, and report back on our experience.
We had a wonderful trip, and ended up being glad that we decided to spend a few days in Venice.

Yes, it is very touristy in parts and I get why some might not like it. But it was also very unique and beautiful and worth seeing. And it wasn't too hard to get off the beaten path (we did inadvertently a few times when we got hopelessly lost trying to find our way back to our apartment!) and particularly, late at night, it seemed almost deserted - and was magical in the moonlight.

I was a little disappointed that I did not get to do a cheese tour or see some of the smaller towns in this area - but that will have to be for another trip. I'm glad I did not miss Venice.

Also, we really enjoyed Bologna. Delicious food and very walkable. Did not seem quite as filled with tourists as Florence/Rome. And both the Ducati motorcycle factory tour (took taxi to) and the University and Palazzo Poggi museum were very interesting to us (we were able to do one in the morning and one in the afternoon, the same day). Although the museum might not be for everyone...skip it if graphic representations of the human body are not your thing. But the historical feel of being in one of the world's oldest universities was special to me. Though there were many similar exhibits in the Galileo Museum in Florence (and I did get to see his finger!)

Thanks again for the all the help!

Nankie, Thanks for getting back and letting people know how your trip went. I often wonder what people end up doing. Nice to know you got to visit something personally interesting to you, and that you did go to Venice. Venice is wonderful at night.