Italy- 18nights, 4 regions!
Jun 7th, 2016, 04:06 PM
#21
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LAKE COMO-BELLAGIO
Day 13- This was a long driving day. “It was boring but the view was nice. Tom Tom was quiet”, sayeth the driver. We really enjoyed the rest stop/restaurant/gas station/shopping mall today. Lunch included fresh strawberries! Once we passed the Milan signs and we started going up toward the mountains, the excitement grew. I have to say, I was not prepared for the beautiful scenery with the snow capped alps in the background. When we turned onto the last section of tunnels and curvy narrow roads, we were really ready to be there already. Passing bicycles in the dimly lit tunnels and being passed by motorcycles going a zillion kph was not fun. Somehow Tom Tom delivered us right to the parking lot at Hotel Belvedere. We are greeted with a welcome cocktail. Very nice. In my planning, I had delayed the reservations for this part of the trip because I was so worried about the other segments, and there were no lake view rooms available. We made a pitch to them at check-in, but alas, we were destined to overlook a nice park area instead. And we got a large balcony to boot. We headed down to “town” and to get the lay of the land. Suddenly there were American accents, something we really hadn’t heard much so far. We found the ferry docks and took a picture of the (difficult to read) schedule. We went back and opened one of our remaining bottles of Carapace and sit on the balcony toasting our extreme luck to be able to take this vacation. Down again to town and looked around for something quick to eat, as we were pretty exhausted by this time. Eh, a little touristy bar/café. Oh well, we are ready to sleep anyway.
Day 14- After a late breakfast, we hiked down the hill to the ferry dock. At one point during my planning phase, I saw the rent-a-boat ads and we thought that would be a nice way to get around the lake. It took a nanosecond in the cold and wind to see that would not work, so our idea of seeing the entire lake ended. We also saw that the multi-day ticket didn’t really seem to be a great deal so, we started with Villa Carlotta for today. 9,20 euros each, round trip. The ferry situation was somewhat confusing. We were told which dock (there were several) and the time, but the time part wasn’t very accurate. By the time we got to the other side, we were starting to get hungry and walked north in the wind and cold to the first nice lakeside place we liked and had a lovely lunch in Griante at Belle Isolate. We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the grounds of Villa Carlotta. For people who worry about income inequality today, the 18th century had it all over today. It was a lovely stroll, finally warming up a bit, with plenty of interesting vegetation. We especially enjoyed the warning to stay away from high trees if you hear the wind siren. Like you could get away from them. After looking at so much art over the trip, this was actually very relaxing. Again, the 5:25 return ferry left maybe 30 minutes late. We learned to be patient when dealing with the ferries. Back in crowded Bellagio, we found a gelato shop and indulged. Back to Hotel Belvedere to freshen up, have a before dinner cocktail, and back down to town. This is a great town for walking uphill and downhill and uphill and downhill…
Day 15- Today is the ferry for Varenna. We now have just about got this mid-lake ferry figured out. This is an ancient fishing village with plenty of step streets to keep you in shape. We really didn’t have a plan, but in reading the information at the tourist office, we contemplate walking up to the castle on the hill. Hmm, 40 minutes hike. What else? We ran into a guy we talked with at the ferry dock yesterday and he suggested Villa Montastero, ”better than Villa Carlotta!” It’s a nice walk and right on the lake. A snack stop at the bottom with wine! What could be better? We have really slowed down our pace and are feeling relaxed. Loved Varenna. I am not unhappy that we choose Bellagio, because touristy as it is, it is in the thick of things on the lake. But if we do go back, I would look into Varenna. When we returned to Bellagio, we walked down to the tip of the peninsula to make reservations for dinner tomorrow. Looks like it will be a memorable last night. But back to the hotel and dinner in tonight.
Day 16- Last day at the lake. We have a time deciding if it will be Menaggio or exploring our little peninsula, and we decide on the latter. Armed with our map and GPS from my splendid iPhone, we walk to San Giovanni. We live by the sea and have done some sailing, so we were interested in the Museum of Navigational Instruments. This happens to be the life’s work of a delightful man who showed us around his precious collection. Everyone uses auto pilot now, but the history of latitude and longitude, octants, sextants, etc. is covered in his space. If you have an interest in the sea, this is recommended. We drifted through the town and found the Riverside Snack Bar, between the river and on the shore of the lake. The sun is out and they are serving franciacorta by the glass. A spelt and brie Panini and we start reminiscing on this soon-to-be-over trip. The route back takes us by Villa Melzi and the Lido, back to the ferry dock area. We ask about a boat tour, but unless we want a private tour for 240 euro, we are out of luck. We did go back to Hotel Belvedere and sit in the sun. The view over the mountains and lake is spectacular. A rest and we dress a bit for dinner. We chose La Punta mainly for the view and it didn’t disappoint. It’s chilly but we can tough it out. Heck, I’m looking at Switzerland, how can you complain?
Day 17- In which we check out and drive to our hotel by Malpensa, get lost a couple of times, turn the car back in, eat dinner and sleep. I don’t have much to say. Tired, don’t want to leave, but have to…
Day 18- Got up, took the shuttle to the airport. It’s a blur, but we got on the plane. A long day and three movies later we were in Miami. Ciao Italia. Cin cin!
Day 13- This was a long driving day. “It was boring but the view was nice. Tom Tom was quiet”, sayeth the driver. We really enjoyed the rest stop/restaurant/gas station/shopping mall today. Lunch included fresh strawberries! Once we passed the Milan signs and we started going up toward the mountains, the excitement grew. I have to say, I was not prepared for the beautiful scenery with the snow capped alps in the background. When we turned onto the last section of tunnels and curvy narrow roads, we were really ready to be there already. Passing bicycles in the dimly lit tunnels and being passed by motorcycles going a zillion kph was not fun. Somehow Tom Tom delivered us right to the parking lot at Hotel Belvedere. We are greeted with a welcome cocktail. Very nice. In my planning, I had delayed the reservations for this part of the trip because I was so worried about the other segments, and there were no lake view rooms available. We made a pitch to them at check-in, but alas, we were destined to overlook a nice park area instead. And we got a large balcony to boot. We headed down to “town” and to get the lay of the land. Suddenly there were American accents, something we really hadn’t heard much so far. We found the ferry docks and took a picture of the (difficult to read) schedule. We went back and opened one of our remaining bottles of Carapace and sit on the balcony toasting our extreme luck to be able to take this vacation. Down again to town and looked around for something quick to eat, as we were pretty exhausted by this time. Eh, a little touristy bar/café. Oh well, we are ready to sleep anyway.
Day 14- After a late breakfast, we hiked down the hill to the ferry dock. At one point during my planning phase, I saw the rent-a-boat ads and we thought that would be a nice way to get around the lake. It took a nanosecond in the cold and wind to see that would not work, so our idea of seeing the entire lake ended. We also saw that the multi-day ticket didn’t really seem to be a great deal so, we started with Villa Carlotta for today. 9,20 euros each, round trip. The ferry situation was somewhat confusing. We were told which dock (there were several) and the time, but the time part wasn’t very accurate. By the time we got to the other side, we were starting to get hungry and walked north in the wind and cold to the first nice lakeside place we liked and had a lovely lunch in Griante at Belle Isolate. We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the grounds of Villa Carlotta. For people who worry about income inequality today, the 18th century had it all over today. It was a lovely stroll, finally warming up a bit, with plenty of interesting vegetation. We especially enjoyed the warning to stay away from high trees if you hear the wind siren. Like you could get away from them. After looking at so much art over the trip, this was actually very relaxing. Again, the 5:25 return ferry left maybe 30 minutes late. We learned to be patient when dealing with the ferries. Back in crowded Bellagio, we found a gelato shop and indulged. Back to Hotel Belvedere to freshen up, have a before dinner cocktail, and back down to town. This is a great town for walking uphill and downhill and uphill and downhill…
Day 15- Today is the ferry for Varenna. We now have just about got this mid-lake ferry figured out. This is an ancient fishing village with plenty of step streets to keep you in shape. We really didn’t have a plan, but in reading the information at the tourist office, we contemplate walking up to the castle on the hill. Hmm, 40 minutes hike. What else? We ran into a guy we talked with at the ferry dock yesterday and he suggested Villa Montastero, ”better than Villa Carlotta!” It’s a nice walk and right on the lake. A snack stop at the bottom with wine! What could be better? We have really slowed down our pace and are feeling relaxed. Loved Varenna. I am not unhappy that we choose Bellagio, because touristy as it is, it is in the thick of things on the lake. But if we do go back, I would look into Varenna. When we returned to Bellagio, we walked down to the tip of the peninsula to make reservations for dinner tomorrow. Looks like it will be a memorable last night. But back to the hotel and dinner in tonight.
Day 16- Last day at the lake. We have a time deciding if it will be Menaggio or exploring our little peninsula, and we decide on the latter. Armed with our map and GPS from my splendid iPhone, we walk to San Giovanni. We live by the sea and have done some sailing, so we were interested in the Museum of Navigational Instruments. This happens to be the life’s work of a delightful man who showed us around his precious collection. Everyone uses auto pilot now, but the history of latitude and longitude, octants, sextants, etc. is covered in his space. If you have an interest in the sea, this is recommended. We drifted through the town and found the Riverside Snack Bar, between the river and on the shore of the lake. The sun is out and they are serving franciacorta by the glass. A spelt and brie Panini and we start reminiscing on this soon-to-be-over trip. The route back takes us by Villa Melzi and the Lido, back to the ferry dock area. We ask about a boat tour, but unless we want a private tour for 240 euro, we are out of luck. We did go back to Hotel Belvedere and sit in the sun. The view over the mountains and lake is spectacular. A rest and we dress a bit for dinner. We chose La Punta mainly for the view and it didn’t disappoint. It’s chilly but we can tough it out. Heck, I’m looking at Switzerland, how can you complain?
Day 17- In which we check out and drive to our hotel by Malpensa, get lost a couple of times, turn the car back in, eat dinner and sleep. I don’t have much to say. Tired, don’t want to leave, but have to…
Day 18- Got up, took the shuttle to the airport. It’s a blur, but we got on the plane. A long day and three movies later we were in Miami. Ciao Italia. Cin cin!
Jun 8th, 2016, 03:25 AM
#22
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I picked Bellagio, knowing full well that it was "touristy", because of its position on the lake. The ferry schedule is most accommodating for day tripping and boat tours. And I picked http://www.belvederebellagio.com/en because they are up above the busy part of town and they offered free parking. As I said, we weren't able to get a water view room, but it was easy to enjoy the view from several public areas. It was a quiet retreat from the hustle-bustle of the shopping area. Beautiful heated pool and small spa. Huge breakfast buffet. There were a few minor glitches- we made reservations for dinner there through the front desk that weren't communicated to the dining room and the wifi was hinky- but overall it was a good choice. We thought we might take a day trip with the car, but it ended up parked the entire time.
Restaurant Bilacus was on a step street and is associated with the wine merchant next door. The outdoor area is huge,but we were happy to be inside, as it was cold. The food was good, service was spotty.
Hotel Belvedere was expensive, with old world service. As we didn't get the table by the window that we had requested, I was a little peeved. Expensive and the only place we really felt underdressed.
La Punta has the primo location and view. They specialize in lake fish, lavarello. The service was efficient and friendly. If you look at the reviews of this place, one thing stands out. When we tried to pay with a credit card, we were told that the machines weren't working. There was no offer to take the information manually. We brought cash because I had read about this. I don't know if it's a scam or just that the mountain internet doesn't work. As I said, we went for the location.
I want to also say that the Riverside Snack Bar lakeside at San Giovanni, was a terrific find. There was a real chef, not just someone warming up paninis. Relaxed service. I suspect this place is packed in the summer, but we had a terrific lunch.
Restaurant Bilacus was on a step street and is associated with the wine merchant next door. The outdoor area is huge,but we were happy to be inside, as it was cold. The food was good, service was spotty.
Hotel Belvedere was expensive, with old world service. As we didn't get the table by the window that we had requested, I was a little peeved. Expensive and the only place we really felt underdressed.
La Punta has the primo location and view. They specialize in lake fish, lavarello. The service was efficient and friendly. If you look at the reviews of this place, one thing stands out. When we tried to pay with a credit card, we were told that the machines weren't working. There was no offer to take the information manually. We brought cash because I had read about this. I don't know if it's a scam or just that the mountain internet doesn't work. As I said, we went for the location.
I want to also say that the Riverside Snack Bar lakeside at San Giovanni, was a terrific find. There was a real chef, not just someone warming up paninis. Relaxed service. I suspect this place is packed in the summer, but we had a terrific lunch.
Jun 8th, 2016, 05:01 AM
#23
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Thank you for the detailed and thoughtful trip report. Our family leaves for Italy next week. Our trip will look much different than yours because we will have an 11 & 13 year old with us. Your trip sounds like the empty nest vacation we will plan in 10 years 
.
.
Jun 8th, 2016, 12:06 PM
#24
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family: I only wish I could have traveled as an 11 or 13 year old. I got a late start and am trying to make up for it. ;-) Now to think about the next trip! Have fun and tell your kids how lucky they are.
Jun 8th, 2016, 02:38 PM
#25
We stayed at Hotel Belvedere on our first visit to Bellagio. We were told that each room had an assigned dining table and that many people returned year after year and had all dinners at the hotel. Maybe that is why you didn't get the table you requested.
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