Italian Riveria - what is the best town to stay in?
 

Hello,

I am planning to be in Italy towards the end of May with my family and would like to visit Cinque Terra / Santa Margherita / Portofino and possibly Genoa for 3 nights. Anyone have suggestions on the best town to stay in as our home base for this area? I was thinking about Santa Margherita, Vernazza or Monterosso...

If it helps, we are a multi-generational party of 5 (2 grandparents in late 50's/early 60's, 2 adults (30 - 40) and 1 child (2 yrs old). While we like the beach, I doubt we'll be sitting around on the sand vegging when there's lots to see, but we do like to keep somewhat mellow too.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and/or insight!

my choice would be santa margherita which is relatively central or at least all else mentioned is easily traveled to if you will have a car

Santa Margherita

I agree---good base location.

any suggestions for a decent apartment to fit all 5 of us? any advice on what areas within Santa Margherita to stay at, preferably with not too many stairs? (several steps ok, but more than 15 is a bit much when carrying a toddler.)

Would SML be good even without a car?

Can you train or bus or take the boat to and from Genoa, the CT, the riviera easily and inexpensively?

Is the town too small to rent a car from and return say in Milan?

For your entire family, I would check out Camogli or Sestri Levante as places to stay. Regular resort towns on the beach with a promenade and lots to do, and easy to jump on the tarin either to Genoa or Cinque Terre.

SCRB: Santa Margherita is a fairly large town (Much larger than Camogli, for example) but when we were there last year, the nearest car rental location was in Rapallo, a few minutes away by bus. You do not need a car to vacation there, or in any of the nearby towns, as the bus and train service is good. (We did rent a car, however, for part of our stay in that area)

Hi; Camogli has always been our favorite town on the coast. Busy during the day and quite at night. Very good restaurants. Easy walking. A car is advisable, but has train service both to Genoa and the Cinque Terre. There is a climb from the old town to the train station. Here is an apartment that has your requirements for a family of five. A main concern if you had a car, is parking. Richard www.casaferretto.it/

Thanks ek.

I ws thinking of spending a week in the area and then heading up towards the Lakes and other areas around Milan from which I will fly out a week later.

It's for this second part that I would be renting a car.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

We are coming from Venice (after a cruise in the Eastern Mediterranean). My original plan was to take the train from Venice to Milan and then rent a car from the Milan train station to go to SML/CT, etc. and then return the car back to the Milan train station as we fly out of Milan Linate airport. Then last night I priced the trains including an option to take the train from Venice all the way to SML and then SML to Milan in first class seats, It comes out to about $600 (USD) not including costs for any other transportation to get around the Riviera (ferries, buses, trains). Then I priced a rental car from the Venice airport with a drop off at Linate airport an it comes out to about $750 which includes toll and gas. If my husband doesn't mind the 4 hour drive, I think it may be more convenient to rent a car. One worry we have is hauling all our luggage and toddler stuff (car seat, stroller, etc) as well as our kid on and off the various trains from Venice to Milan and/or SML. If we rent a car, parking will be a concern. Anyone with tips on driving / parking in CT/SML, etc.?

Iris - thanks for the apartment tip. I will definitely check it out!

Scrb - A couple years ago, we took the train from Venice to Milan and then up to Varenna (Lake Como). The trains were pretty easy to navigate. Not sure which lake(s) you are planning to see, but in Lake Como, we were able to take the hydrofoil ferry (or you can take the slower ferry) between the various towns (Bellagio, Como, etc.). We did not have a need for a car in that region. Hope this helps!

SCRB: That is more or less what we did last year.

We flew into Genoa (from JFK) and spent 3 nights in Camogli without a car. We then picked up a car in Rapallo and drove the ten minutes to SML where we spent another 3 nights before driving to Lake Como (4 nights) and then to Malpensa airport. A terrific trip!

Thanks again. I'm still undecided on all the places to visit the second week and certainly need to look into the public transport options.

ek, were you able to return the car at Malpensa or Milan? Without huge dropoff costs?

Another option is to stay in Levanto. One trip we flew into Milan, spent a day or two, and then took the train on to SML for a couple of nights. Then we headed to the Cinque Terre by train, w/out a hotel reservation - we hadn't been to the Cinque Terre, and so wanted a little freedom to choose our town/lodging. We got off the train for lunch in Levanto (some friends had recommended staying there, so wanted to check it out), had a great lunch, walked around the pretty town a bit, and decided to base ourselves there.

It is right at the edge of the CT national park, and within minutes you are in the CT proper. We found Levanto less crowded than the Cinque Terre towns, and with more options for restaurants and bars, markets, etc. Nice sweep of beach, too. It seemed very family-friendly (our friends' daughters proclaimed it as having the "best gelato in Italy").

SCRB: We rented from EuropCar Rapallo through AutoEurope. There was no drop off charge to leave the car at Malpensa. (I do not remember ever paying a drop-off charge in Italy and I usually drop the car in a location different than the pick-up spot). We never entered Milan itself.

On our last morning, we left Menaggio on the western side of Lake Como and drove to the airport, in time for a flight leaving at either noon or 1pm (Delta from MXP to JFK). It was a wonderful trip and everything worked out very well. One day, when we had the car in SML, we drove to Lerici and Tellaro, and to Portovenere. Another day we drove to Portofino and then to dinner outside Rapallo. I wrote a trip report; I will top it for you..

Looks like we will probably drive from Venice to CT / SML area. Are there any towns we should avoid staying in due to lack of parking?

FYI - You will likely need to rent a minivan with five people plus luggage. I hope that is what you priced.

You would also qualify for a family discount on the train of 20% (familia) and/or the Amica discount (at least 24 hour advance purchase required and can sell out - 20%).

You didn't ask for routes to travel from Venice to SML area but if I may... S 11 from Venice to Padova takes you to Stra and Villa Pisani, a Palladian villa. Amazing! Then south to Monselice with its pilgrimage of the seven chapels - if you don't mind a climb - but the views are lovely. Then west on S 10 with a stop at Montagnana. Purported to be the best preserved medieval walls in Europe and at Hostaria Zanarotti, semolina gnocchi sauteed in butter covered with prosciutto di Mantagnana, possibly the best prosciutto I've ever had. Continue on S 10 to Mantova which is lovely; it was an incredibly important city in the medieval history of Italy. Then south to Parma on S 420 south of which you can take S 62 through some picturesque countryside following the via Francigena, the medieval pilgrim trail from Cambridge to Rome. Or... Stay of S 10 to Piacenza going south of S 45 to Bobbio. A wonderful "find" during this summer's trip to Italy. Simply charming!

Kybourbon - thanks for the tip on the train discounts. I will have to check that out.

Toni - If we were to drive, I was just going to take the route suggested by viamichelin.com, but thanks for the route tip. I will take a look and factor your suggestions in!

Info about the family discount, but don't attempt to buy online from Trenitalia because they aren't accepting US credit cards.
http://www.trenitalia.com/cms/v/inde...003f16f90aRCRD