“It’s the start of a beautiful relationship” aka tcreath’s first trip to Paris
Nov 11th, 2005, 11:32 AM
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“It’s the start of a beautiful relationship” aka tcreath’s first trip to Paris
My husband and I got back a few days ago from our very first trip to Paris. Please forgive me as I am not as fascinating of a writer as some of the other fodorites, hence my report may be kind of dull! We had such a wonderful time. I was prepared for how amazing the sights would be, but I was unprepared for how beautiful the city would be. Just walking around and taking in the city was splendid. Unfortunately this trip was a very short one. We left on Thursday, November 3. After a nightmarish of a day that included a missed flight to Paris, we arrived safe and sound around 4:00 p.m. on Friday the 4th. We had four nights in Paris and returned on Tuesday, the 8th.
Here is a little bit of background info: DH and I are in our mid-twenties and have traveled fairly extensively throughout Europe, although this is our first trip to Paris, and France for that matter. We both love history and different cultures but are not really big art fans. We appreciate it but can’t spend hours on end in a museum looking at it. We tend to be more budget travelers to a certain extent. We don’t spend a lot on hotels, as we don’t really spend a lot of time in them.
Hubby and I are not foodies. We are very picky eaters. Not a favorite trait of mine, but alas one that has carried with me from childhood through adulthood. I just wanted to explain that up front so that I don’t offend anyone later on, or for anyone scratching their heads and pondering why in earth we were eating what we were! Therefore, we did not take advantage of Paris’ many magnificent restaurants and stuck to café’s and lots of patisseries! I took full advantage of all the patisseries and creperies that Paris has to offer, and ate much more than my fare share of torts, napoleans, macaroons, chocolates and anything else I shouldn’t be eating. Luckily we walked enough to (hopefully) burn most of it off!
After much consideration, we decided to stay at the Hotel du Champ de Mars, 7, rue du Champ de Mars, in the 7th. It was a great location. We were very near Rue Cler and an easy walk down Ave de la Motte Picquet to the Ecole Military metro. We really liked this hotel. Our room was on the 5th floor, and although very tiny (the smallest we’ve had in Europe) it was very cozy and nicely decorated. The best feature, though, was the big windows that opened up to a nice view of the top half of the Eiffel tower. The price for the room was € 79 a night. However, I think that when (note I said “when”!) we go back, we will probably stay in the Saint Germain area, as it seems more lively after dark. The website for the hotel is http://www.hotel-du-champ-de-mars.com/index.html.
Okay, time to start the report!
<b>Friday, November 4th</b>
We had arranged for Paris Shuttle to pick us up at the airport and take us to our hotel. I must say that I was very pleased with their service. Due to our flight issues, we arrived in Paris about 8 hours later than we had planned. We called the number from the airport as advised, and the shuttle was waiting for us by the time we made it down to the meeting point. After a very scary drive through Paris with our crazy driver, we made it safe and sound to our hotel. After checking in we walked around the neighborhood and decided to try Tribeca, a restaurant on Rue Cler. I will admit that we did not like our food at all. I love the cheeses of Italy and Switzerland, but unfortunately I discovered that this was not the case with some of the French cheeses. I ordered a pizza that was smothered in a goat cheese that I just did not like. My husband had lasagna that he said reminded him a little too much of Hamburger Helper! But we had a great glass of red wine and after dinner walked across the street to the boulangerie for great chocolate croissants. We then made our way to the Eiffel tower just in time to see the lights start sparkling. It was a beautiful sight and we were very happy….we were truly in Paris!
<b>Saturday, November 4th</b>
After a great night of much-needed sleep, we woke up early and made our way back to the boulangerie for chocolate croissants. After a hasty breakfast, we hopped on the metro rode to the Saint Germain stop, and walked towards Notre Dame. I thought that this area of Paris was just gorgeous; the views of the islands, the bridges and the awesome sight of Notre Dame just took my breath away. Of course, as wonderful as it is on the outside its even better on the inside. All that stained glass! After our visit to Notre Dame, we went down to the powerful Deportation Memorial and then made our way to Saint Chapelle. I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything like it. It was truly magnificent! We just sat and tried to take in all the beautiful stained glass, as we knew that our pictures could never do justice what our eyes were seeing. We took pictures of the Cite metropolitan stop, and then just meandered our way through Ile de la Cite and onto Ile St. Louis. It was a little too chilly and early to try the famous Berthillion ice cream, so we settled for a delicious cup of hot chocolate to go at Cacao et Chocolate at 63, rue Saint-Louis.
After strolling around for a bit, lots of enthusiastic ooh’s and ahh’s abound, we determined that it was time for lunch. We headed back towards Ile de la Cite and settled in at Les Deux Palais at 3, Blvd. du Palais in the 4th. I had a very good onion soup and my DH had a chicken dish that he deemed quite tasty. After a few petit crèmes, we were ready to continue our exploration. Next stop: Saint Germain. We found the church right across the street from the famous Les Deux Magots, so of course I had to be one of the tacky tourists that were taking pictures of it! We walked around the church, and then just sat and soaked it all in. The priest was preparing the alter with beautiful bouquets of flowers. Several hours after walking around Saint Germain and the Latin Quarter I made a fascinating discovery: chocolate crepes! The chocolate crepes sold at the street vendors are to die for, and I must have had at least three or four a day! We headed for the Jardin du Luxembourg and St. Sulpice. Since it was time for some shopping, I stopped in the Annick Goutal boutique and bought a bottle of perfume. Sure, I know I can find it at home, but its more fun to buy it in Paris! And for you ladies out there who may care, after much consideration I decided on the Eau d'Hadrien. Several hours and countless crepes later, it was time for a nap.
After a much-needed nap, we headed first for Jean Paul Hevin, at 16 Ave de la Motte-Picquet, near our hotel, for some edible souvenirs. We purchased some chocolate truffles that were incredible. I can kick myself for not buying more! Then it was on to the Eiffel Tower in search of the river boats. We took an hour long cruise, marveling at how beautiful Paris is at night, and worked up quite an appetite in the process. After the cruise, we found ourselves at a small café near our hotel, although unfortunately the name escapes me and I don’t seem to have a receipt for it. I believe it was called Café Tour Eiffel, or something to that nature. Anyways, we both just ordered a plate of spaghetti, which was very good, and a glass of wine, followed by crème brulee that was delicious.
<b>Sunday, November 6th</b>
We started our morning much in the same was as the day before, picking up pain au chocolate from the boulangerie near our hotel. Today we were headed for the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysees. After our visit to the Arc, we made our way down the Champs Elysees in search of Laduree and, yes, I will admit it, the McDonalds. We were both hungry and it was quick and painless (unless you are a foodie, in which case it may be very hard for you to read that!) and left room for the macaroons that I bought. I never thought that the macaroons would be so delicious! My favorite is vanilla, followed by rose. DH preferred caramel. After our pastry stop, we headed for Place de la Concorde and the Jardin des Tuileries. What a beautiful park! It was a beautiful day; the sun was shining, the highs were in the 60’s, and everyone was lounging around fountains. It was then and there that I decided that I did not want to go home, ever! I then found yet another Laduree (I know, I know) near the Madeleine and bought even more macaroons.
We hopped on the metro and ventured our way to the Sacre Couer by way of Gare du Nord. Now, I’ve seen my fare share of train stations and I thought that this one was beautiful. We stopped in a café across the street for a quick snack (more pain au chocolate and petit crèmes) and worked our way over to Sacre Couer. Wow! What a sight this was. Such a beautiful church, especially against the backdrop of a clear blue sky. We made our way to the top and got inside just as service had started, so we decided to rest for a bit and listed to the service, which was beautiful.
This evening we ate at a great Italian restaurant near our hotel, Ristorante Tina. We shared a half-carafe of rose wine. I had a delicious gnocci and my husband had a cheese pizza that was very good. Afterwards we headed back towards Ile St. Louis in search of Berthillion but unfortunately they were closed so we settled for some gelato instead. Decent but nothing compared to some of the great gelato we’ve had in Italy. We then strolled around the Hotel de Ville and took a walk along the riverfront before heading back to our hotel for the evening.
<b>Monday, November 7th</b>
On our last final day in Paris, I wanted to do some shopping. After a breakfast of orange juice, pain au chocolate and grand crèmes at La Terrasse, 2 Place de L’Ecole Militare in the 7th, we headed for Galleries Lafayette and Printemps. I just loved the dome at Galleries Lafayette! I did a little bit of shopping in both places, we took pictures of the Opera, and then made our way back to Jardin Tuileries for lunch at Café Renard. The food was kind of mediocre, which was to be expected I guess, but the setting was well worth the expense of good food. We had an outdoor table with views of the park, great for people watching. We then headed to the Louvre. Even though we had no intentions on visiting (saving it for our return trip!), we wanted to see the beautiful building.
Dinner this evening was at Le Danton, at 103 Blvd. St. Germain in the 6th. Neither of us were very hungry. I ordered a ham and cheese omelet that was actually very very good, and my DH had a chicken club sandwich and a plate of fries. We then headed towards the Latin Quarter in search of a café, and found ourselves at Café Leffe, at 41 Rue de la Bucherie in the 5th. The best thing about this café was the views of the lit-up Notre Dame cathedral, right across the river. What a way to spend our last night in Paris! I had a grand crème and a crème brulee, and DH had a hot chocolate and a chocolate crepe. We then strolled hand in hand through the Latin Quarter and along the river front, taking in our last views and sniffing at the thought of leaving this glorious city.
<b>Tuesday, November 8th</b>
After an uneventful flight, we arrived home, exhausted and sad because we were no longer in Paris.
Needless to say, we fell in love with Paris and will definitely go back some day!
Thanks so much for reading my long report!
Tracy
Here is a little bit of background info: DH and I are in our mid-twenties and have traveled fairly extensively throughout Europe, although this is our first trip to Paris, and France for that matter. We both love history and different cultures but are not really big art fans. We appreciate it but can’t spend hours on end in a museum looking at it. We tend to be more budget travelers to a certain extent. We don’t spend a lot on hotels, as we don’t really spend a lot of time in them.
Hubby and I are not foodies. We are very picky eaters. Not a favorite trait of mine, but alas one that has carried with me from childhood through adulthood. I just wanted to explain that up front so that I don’t offend anyone later on, or for anyone scratching their heads and pondering why in earth we were eating what we were! Therefore, we did not take advantage of Paris’ many magnificent restaurants and stuck to café’s and lots of patisseries! I took full advantage of all the patisseries and creperies that Paris has to offer, and ate much more than my fare share of torts, napoleans, macaroons, chocolates and anything else I shouldn’t be eating. Luckily we walked enough to (hopefully) burn most of it off!
After much consideration, we decided to stay at the Hotel du Champ de Mars, 7, rue du Champ de Mars, in the 7th. It was a great location. We were very near Rue Cler and an easy walk down Ave de la Motte Picquet to the Ecole Military metro. We really liked this hotel. Our room was on the 5th floor, and although very tiny (the smallest we’ve had in Europe) it was very cozy and nicely decorated. The best feature, though, was the big windows that opened up to a nice view of the top half of the Eiffel tower. The price for the room was € 79 a night. However, I think that when (note I said “when”!) we go back, we will probably stay in the Saint Germain area, as it seems more lively after dark. The website for the hotel is http://www.hotel-du-champ-de-mars.com/index.html.
Okay, time to start the report!
<b>Friday, November 4th</b>
We had arranged for Paris Shuttle to pick us up at the airport and take us to our hotel. I must say that I was very pleased with their service. Due to our flight issues, we arrived in Paris about 8 hours later than we had planned. We called the number from the airport as advised, and the shuttle was waiting for us by the time we made it down to the meeting point. After a very scary drive through Paris with our crazy driver, we made it safe and sound to our hotel. After checking in we walked around the neighborhood and decided to try Tribeca, a restaurant on Rue Cler. I will admit that we did not like our food at all. I love the cheeses of Italy and Switzerland, but unfortunately I discovered that this was not the case with some of the French cheeses. I ordered a pizza that was smothered in a goat cheese that I just did not like. My husband had lasagna that he said reminded him a little too much of Hamburger Helper! But we had a great glass of red wine and after dinner walked across the street to the boulangerie for great chocolate croissants. We then made our way to the Eiffel tower just in time to see the lights start sparkling. It was a beautiful sight and we were very happy….we were truly in Paris!
<b>Saturday, November 4th</b>
After a great night of much-needed sleep, we woke up early and made our way back to the boulangerie for chocolate croissants. After a hasty breakfast, we hopped on the metro rode to the Saint Germain stop, and walked towards Notre Dame. I thought that this area of Paris was just gorgeous; the views of the islands, the bridges and the awesome sight of Notre Dame just took my breath away. Of course, as wonderful as it is on the outside its even better on the inside. All that stained glass! After our visit to Notre Dame, we went down to the powerful Deportation Memorial and then made our way to Saint Chapelle. I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything like it. It was truly magnificent! We just sat and tried to take in all the beautiful stained glass, as we knew that our pictures could never do justice what our eyes were seeing. We took pictures of the Cite metropolitan stop, and then just meandered our way through Ile de la Cite and onto Ile St. Louis. It was a little too chilly and early to try the famous Berthillion ice cream, so we settled for a delicious cup of hot chocolate to go at Cacao et Chocolate at 63, rue Saint-Louis.
After strolling around for a bit, lots of enthusiastic ooh’s and ahh’s abound, we determined that it was time for lunch. We headed back towards Ile de la Cite and settled in at Les Deux Palais at 3, Blvd. du Palais in the 4th. I had a very good onion soup and my DH had a chicken dish that he deemed quite tasty. After a few petit crèmes, we were ready to continue our exploration. Next stop: Saint Germain. We found the church right across the street from the famous Les Deux Magots, so of course I had to be one of the tacky tourists that were taking pictures of it! We walked around the church, and then just sat and soaked it all in. The priest was preparing the alter with beautiful bouquets of flowers. Several hours after walking around Saint Germain and the Latin Quarter I made a fascinating discovery: chocolate crepes! The chocolate crepes sold at the street vendors are to die for, and I must have had at least three or four a day! We headed for the Jardin du Luxembourg and St. Sulpice. Since it was time for some shopping, I stopped in the Annick Goutal boutique and bought a bottle of perfume. Sure, I know I can find it at home, but its more fun to buy it in Paris! And for you ladies out there who may care, after much consideration I decided on the Eau d'Hadrien. Several hours and countless crepes later, it was time for a nap.
After a much-needed nap, we headed first for Jean Paul Hevin, at 16 Ave de la Motte-Picquet, near our hotel, for some edible souvenirs. We purchased some chocolate truffles that were incredible. I can kick myself for not buying more! Then it was on to the Eiffel Tower in search of the river boats. We took an hour long cruise, marveling at how beautiful Paris is at night, and worked up quite an appetite in the process. After the cruise, we found ourselves at a small café near our hotel, although unfortunately the name escapes me and I don’t seem to have a receipt for it. I believe it was called Café Tour Eiffel, or something to that nature. Anyways, we both just ordered a plate of spaghetti, which was very good, and a glass of wine, followed by crème brulee that was delicious.
<b>Sunday, November 6th</b>
We started our morning much in the same was as the day before, picking up pain au chocolate from the boulangerie near our hotel. Today we were headed for the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysees. After our visit to the Arc, we made our way down the Champs Elysees in search of Laduree and, yes, I will admit it, the McDonalds. We were both hungry and it was quick and painless (unless you are a foodie, in which case it may be very hard for you to read that!) and left room for the macaroons that I bought. I never thought that the macaroons would be so delicious! My favorite is vanilla, followed by rose. DH preferred caramel. After our pastry stop, we headed for Place de la Concorde and the Jardin des Tuileries. What a beautiful park! It was a beautiful day; the sun was shining, the highs were in the 60’s, and everyone was lounging around fountains. It was then and there that I decided that I did not want to go home, ever! I then found yet another Laduree (I know, I know) near the Madeleine and bought even more macaroons.
We hopped on the metro and ventured our way to the Sacre Couer by way of Gare du Nord. Now, I’ve seen my fare share of train stations and I thought that this one was beautiful. We stopped in a café across the street for a quick snack (more pain au chocolate and petit crèmes) and worked our way over to Sacre Couer. Wow! What a sight this was. Such a beautiful church, especially against the backdrop of a clear blue sky. We made our way to the top and got inside just as service had started, so we decided to rest for a bit and listed to the service, which was beautiful.
This evening we ate at a great Italian restaurant near our hotel, Ristorante Tina. We shared a half-carafe of rose wine. I had a delicious gnocci and my husband had a cheese pizza that was very good. Afterwards we headed back towards Ile St. Louis in search of Berthillion but unfortunately they were closed so we settled for some gelato instead. Decent but nothing compared to some of the great gelato we’ve had in Italy. We then strolled around the Hotel de Ville and took a walk along the riverfront before heading back to our hotel for the evening.
<b>Monday, November 7th</b>
On our last final day in Paris, I wanted to do some shopping. After a breakfast of orange juice, pain au chocolate and grand crèmes at La Terrasse, 2 Place de L’Ecole Militare in the 7th, we headed for Galleries Lafayette and Printemps. I just loved the dome at Galleries Lafayette! I did a little bit of shopping in both places, we took pictures of the Opera, and then made our way back to Jardin Tuileries for lunch at Café Renard. The food was kind of mediocre, which was to be expected I guess, but the setting was well worth the expense of good food. We had an outdoor table with views of the park, great for people watching. We then headed to the Louvre. Even though we had no intentions on visiting (saving it for our return trip!), we wanted to see the beautiful building.
Dinner this evening was at Le Danton, at 103 Blvd. St. Germain in the 6th. Neither of us were very hungry. I ordered a ham and cheese omelet that was actually very very good, and my DH had a chicken club sandwich and a plate of fries. We then headed towards the Latin Quarter in search of a café, and found ourselves at Café Leffe, at 41 Rue de la Bucherie in the 5th. The best thing about this café was the views of the lit-up Notre Dame cathedral, right across the river. What a way to spend our last night in Paris! I had a grand crème and a crème brulee, and DH had a hot chocolate and a chocolate crepe. We then strolled hand in hand through the Latin Quarter and along the river front, taking in our last views and sniffing at the thought of leaving this glorious city.
<b>Tuesday, November 8th</b>
After an uneventful flight, we arrived home, exhausted and sad because we were no longer in Paris.
Needless to say, we fell in love with Paris and will definitely go back some day!
Thanks so much for reading my long report!
Tracy
Nov 11th, 2005, 11:53 AM
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Thanks for sharing the trip report. We are also doing a very short trip over Thanksgiving vacation. It was nice to see how you broke up your days. I hope that our weather will be as mild at the end of November!
Nov 11th, 2005, 11:58 AM
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Tracy, your trip and your report were lovely! We usually spend Thanksgiving in Paris but this year we'll be in Germany and while I'm sure that our trip will be great, there's a part of me that's wistful for Paris. So many thanks for letting me enjoy Paris vicariously through your report!
Nov 11th, 2005, 12:57 PM
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tcreath,
Nice report - thanks for posting it.
One comment&question:
<<...have traveled fairly extensively throughout Europe, although this is our first trip to Paris... >>
Many (most?) Americans make Paris their FIRST European visit. Others love it so much they never see much of the rest of Europe.
What took you so long?
Nice report - thanks for posting it.
One comment&question:
<<...have traveled fairly extensively throughout Europe, although this is our first trip to Paris... >>
Many (most?) Americans make Paris their FIRST European visit. Others love it so much they never see much of the rest of Europe.
What took you so long?
Nov 11th, 2005, 01:07 PM
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Nice report Tracy. I love Paris and I think you did a wonderful job of giving me a little "virtual" trip and help assuage my longing to be there. And I know what you mean about the macaroons. It's hard to describe to someone who hasn't tasted them how incredible they are.
Nov 11th, 2005, 01:31 PM
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Isn't it fun to "find" Paris!
My husband doesn't usually appreciate big cities so many of our European trips did not include them...just the airports to pick up the cars.
I REALLY wanted to see Paris and insisted on adding it to the end of another trip.
We've been back seven times since!
My husband doesn't usually appreciate big cities so many of our European trips did not include them...just the airports to pick up the cars.
I REALLY wanted to see Paris and insisted on adding it to the end of another trip.
We've been back seven times since!
Nov 11th, 2005, 01:54 PM
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Thank you all for your kind replies!
bardo1, now that I've been I've been asking myself the same question...why have we waited so long! I guess I just didn't know if I would like it or not. People seem to either love Paris or hate it. Until I registered here on Fodors, most of the people I knew who went to Paris just didn't seem to care for it. Once I started reading all the raves about it on Fodors, I started aching to go. Now I'm so glad I did, although I honestly think some people I know are surprised I actually like it! That's okay though....they can stay at home and leave Paris for me!
Tracy
bardo1, now that I've been I've been asking myself the same question...why have we waited so long! I guess I just didn't know if I would like it or not. People seem to either love Paris or hate it. Until I registered here on Fodors, most of the people I knew who went to Paris just didn't seem to care for it. Once I started reading all the raves about it on Fodors, I started aching to go. Now I'm so glad I did, although I honestly think some people I know are surprised I actually like it! That's okay though....they can stay at home and leave Paris for me!
Tracy
Nov 11th, 2005, 02:54 PM
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Wonderful, Happy for you Tracy, now you can go year after year after..... 
It was interesting to hear what you had to say about Tribeca..we stayed right on the corner of rue Cler & Grenelle and I saw so many people eating there every day.
We agree with you regarding the evenings, staying in an apt, we enjoyed the quiet but the 6th really has much more going on after dark.
Now, when did you say you were going back ?
It was interesting to hear what you had to say about Tribeca..we stayed right on the corner of rue Cler & Grenelle and I saw so many people eating there every day.
We agree with you regarding the evenings, staying in an apt, we enjoyed the quiet but the 6th really has much more going on after dark.
Now, when did you say you were going back ?
Nov 11th, 2005, 03:19 PM
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Loved your report. I felt as though I was walking around with you! We spent 8 wonderful days there in September and can't wait to get back. Stayed in the Latin Quarter just a block from the Seine and Notre Dame. So glad you liked that area. We loved it!
Our "haute cuisine" experiences sound about like yours. We loved just dropping in cafes and getting snacks. And it's nice to hear someone admit they stopped in the Champs Elysees McDonalds. So did we. Did you notice their bakery there? The macarons weren't half bad either.
Again, great report!
Our "haute cuisine" experiences sound about like yours. We loved just dropping in cafes and getting snacks. And it's nice to hear someone admit they stopped in the Champs Elysees McDonalds. So did we. Did you notice their bakery there? The macarons weren't half bad either.
Again, great report!
Nov 11th, 2005, 04:20 PM
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Enjoyed your report.
For self-described "non-foodies", it strikes me that you were able to get enormous enjoyment from your meals. Good for you - the whole point is to eat what pleases you. Nobody will force you to eat <i>escargots</i>. And since France now has about 400 cheeses, I doubt if anyone would like them all.
Of course, some might describe your French culinary experience as "death by chocolate".
- Larry
For self-described "non-foodies", it strikes me that you were able to get enormous enjoyment from your meals. Good for you - the whole point is to eat what pleases you. Nobody will force you to eat <i>escargots</i>. And since France now has about 400 cheeses, I doubt if anyone would like them all.
Of course, some might describe your French culinary experience as "death by chocolate".
- Larry
Nov 22nd, 2005, 08:55 AM
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For anyone who is interested, below the link to the pictures from our trip.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...p;conn_speed=1
Thanks!
Tracy
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...p;conn_speed=1
Thanks!
Tracy
Nov 22nd, 2005, 09:46 AM
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Hmmm...that's strange. The link works for me. I wonder what's wrong? Sorry about that! Well, this isn't the slideshow but here are the pictures. Just click on open them up. Hopefully this link works!
http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePh...682019001&
Tracy
http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePh...682019001&
Tracy
Nov 22nd, 2005, 01:41 PM
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Both Printemps stores have marvelous glass domes too. During WWII, the thousands of pieces of glass were removed and then later put back. In the store to the west [Maison] the dome is over Cafe Flo, and there is also a roof deck with very nice city views and a cafe. Go there in the AM for pictures with the Eiffel Tower in the background.
