I have to agree with Croque Madame. I usually stay right in the rue Cler/rue St. Dominique area so I guess it's not out of my way....but I do enjoy the streets that branch out from the rue Cler. On my last trip to Paris, I arrived at my hotel at about 7 p.m. and wandered around there till 10. It was wonderful!

But I wouldn't go out of my way to go there. It's a nice stroll, if you have the time.

In my opinion, though this street might be a pleasant place to stay, I don't think it's such special that it would be worth a visit.

The abovementionned rue Montorgueil has an athmosphere very similar to the rue Cler (pedestrian, paved, with many food shops, etc...) but without the hordes of tourists.

Haven't read this thread in detail or checked the current thread on Rick Steves, but I just read the NYT magazine article on Rick Steves. Interesting article. I was amused when I read the following (I'm quoting):

When he described his favorite street in Paris, a narrow lane in the Seventh Arrondissement called Rue Cler, as so French ''I feel like I must have been a poodle in a previous life,'' its cafes were quickly choked with American tourists. Among some Parisians, the street is now half-jokingly referred to as Rue Rick Steves.

So be warned! :-)

I was staying in a hotel near Rue cler in December 2 years ago. Obiviously it was not overrun by tourists due to the time of year but a nice area for a wander and a snack. I dont think it's the only great market but it is a twee version of what you picture a French market street to be. The side street are good for wandering and it saved me from starvation when we arrived late one our first night and had some food in Cafe du Marche (?).

We stay near rue Cler and last visit had breakfast at Cafe Marche. We also walk up and down the street often in our stay. It is fun and charming. It may be that because we travel off season, I rarely see the glut of American tourists. In fact, the most charming part of this (permanent) market street is seeing the Parisians do their daily market shopping. One morning at the cafe we watched as a group of young mothers with their little ones in strollers pulled up to an outdoor table for their cafes and conversation.
We love all the markets that travel around the city--the produce and food offerings are just magnificent. Puts our grocers to shame.
And there are other market streets.
There is also an Oliviers&Co. on rue Cler if you want to sample many olive oils.

We stayed near Rue Cler in January and there were very few tourists. (Well...I guess there are very few tourists period in January.) It was a great time to be there.

I agree that if you are in the area it's worth a look, but not necessarily a special trip.

I actually use RS' recommendations as places *not* to go. This is after visiting Brugge in '98 and literally bumping into Rickniks, noses in identical guidebooks, doing the officially approved tourist trail. (Our solution then: rent a bike, do the backstreets. Had a blast)

Anyone else do this with his "back doors"? Avoid them like the plague, knowing they'll be heaving with people??

ref: the other RS flame thread currently on Fodors, and this WashPost feature

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn...2004Jun25.html

"Where are all the Italians?"

That was an interesting article on Cinque Terre -- thanks, ealing!

Just back from Paris a week ago and we certainly went to see what all the fuss over rue Cler was about. I am delighted to say we strolled the length of it at a slow leisurely pace just taking in all the wonderful fruit, cheeses, meats, and breads on display, or should I say "show"! There were very few people about, don't ask me what time of day - can't remember. Glad we went.

I've only been to 2 Paris street markets and prefer rue Mouffetard over rue Cler because of the cosier ambiance (narrower streets) which seems to me more typical of Parisian/European market streets. Rue Mouffetard has lots of shops and cafes and many small streets running off it.

One reason for going to rue Cler is Le Notre pastries!

Rue Cler is great fun! seeing all the vendors, cafes and market life.

Rue Daguerre is also a good choice to explore and Rue Moufftard is the best!

Rue Montorgueil is OK, but a little rough around this area, especially Les Halles. Not pleasant in the evenings and also is known for rollerblading theives snatching bags off tables!

At least with Rue Cler and Moufftard there are other sights nearby eg; Rodin, Eiffel Tower, Napoleon's tomb, Alexander III bridge and Moufftard there is the Notre Dame and islands and Cluny Museum.

Yes--*if* you're over that way anyway, want a quick bite, or would like to mail some postcards from the post office at the end of the street.
No--if you'd like to find a more authentic, less touristed street market. If you are near the number 10 metro line, you can go out to the Michel-Ange Auteuil metro stop and catch a vibrant, untouristed market Wednesdays and Saturday (mornings, I believe) in an upscale residential neighborhood of the 16th. There is also a LeNotre just off the market square. Or you could stroll down the rue Fontaine about a block to the little street of food shops (fromagerie, poissonerie, boucherie, boulangerie, etc.). Or walk up the Ave. Mozart, more food shops and cafes (we like the Royal Mozart for lunch, the cafe dog's name is Snoopy, FYI) and then continue over toward the Marmottan museum.
Your call!

I hadn't noticed someone mention the rue Montorguiel street market. I stumbled upon it on a rainy day years ago and it's become one of my favorites, along with rue Mouffetard and rue de Buci. One of the things I remember about it was how the white paving stones glistened after the rain. It seemed to me it had just as many tourists as rue Cler, but it differs in that it's not in as upscale of an arrondissement as rue Cler.

Now here's what I find interesting. BTilke just wrote &quot;<i>No--if you'd like to find a more authentic, less touristed street market...</i>&quot; and, I believe, a few others have echoed this concept that rue Cler is somehow &quot;not authentic.&quot; I'm reminded of another thread about Steves where we were discussing his suggestion to avoid pricey places because that would give one more of a feel for the &quot;real, authentic&quot; Europe. And the consensus seemed to be that wealthier Europeans and pricier places are every bit as &quot;authentic&quot; as less-wealthy Europeans and budget places.

So now I'm confused. Just because rue Cler is in a more upscale neighborhod than, say, rue Mouffetard, with a more upscale clientele, does that somehow make it less &quot;authentic&quot;?

Actually, Capo, the street market I suggested is in just as wealthy a neighborhood as the rue Cler.
I don't find the rue Cler &quot;fake&quot;, but it does have a lot of tourists, particularly American tourists, partly because of guidebook recs like RS and partly because it is close to the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides, two top tourist attractions. And some of the shops reflect this. OTOH, the street market I suggested is not near any main tourist attractions (although it is within walking distance of the Marmottan). I don't know the other street markets well enough (except Mouffetard) to offer opinions. At any rate, I don't think there are any &quot;cheap&quot; neighborhoods left in central Paris.

I lived in Paris in the mid 70's . . had a flat one street over from Cler . . Rue Amilie. My morning routine included going over to Cler for breakfast pastries and fruit.

We went back about 20 years later expecting to find it much different. Actually, it was about the same as before Steves &quot;discovered&quot; it.

Even then, there was always a lot of visitors, because it is fairly close to the Tower. The return was sorta nice except that the building with my old flat is now a hotel . . O well . . progress I suppose!

Rich

Merci, BTilke. So if I'm understanding you correctly, what you see as lack of authenticity in Rue Cler (and perhaps other places as well) is not necessarily the patronization by tourists but catering -- on some level -- to tourists?

BTilke,
I have been to the market you are talking about and agree that it is really interesting. What a selection of meat, veggies,fuits,etc...First place I ever saw a vendor ask someone when they would be eating the potatoes they wanted to buy, so that he could supply the 'just right' ones, vendors offering recipes, vendors burning the feather stumps off of a chicken...also spent time at cheese shop where the lady gave me the whole history of hoe to store and serve each cheese I asked about....good chocloat shop on Rue Mozart (found out in Traveller magazine) called Le Gamin et le Chocolat...good memories

I am curious about which shops are &quot;catering to tourists&quot;, any more than a shop on rue Commerce does, for example. If you are speaking of the dish towel, gift shop, I will give you that one. It looks like it has been there a good while.

Yes, to a certain extent. And the last time I tried shopping at one of the produce stands there, I had to dodge around numerous tourists taking pictures, as if they were at some kind of fruit and vegetable museum. A situation I never encountered over in Auteuil.

Willtravel,
Screw the bad raps. Do it. It's Paris for God's sake. There are tourists in great spots all over the world. Stop at the Vietnamese joint and pick up a couple of nibbles. You can do great restaurants and sights elsewhere.