Is Naples always so scary?
 

Just returned from our honeymoon (Rome to the Amalfi Coast) and stopped through Naples briefly during our travels. Literally just the train station. But I have to say, if most tourists had the experience that I had in the Naples train station, it is a wonder anyone actually decides to stay in Naples to explore. It just felt dirty and seedy. And on the way home, my husband stumbled upon two men in the bathroom engaged in . . . well, you can figure it out. After this experience, I am doubtful that I would ever be interested in traveling to or through Naples. Does anyone agree? What redeeming qualities does Naples have? (I know that the train station is probably not indicative of the rest of the city, to be fair, but I have to follow my instinct. . . )

While I certainly didn't find the Naples train station to be a model of spotlessness, I also didn't find it <i>that</i> bad.

We did, however, encounter one of the more annoying characters on our 2001 trip a few stops south of Naples, on the Circumvesuviana line to Sorrento. He was a transvestive -- and not a very passable one at all -- who was aggressively pestering people for money on the platform. Nothing physical, but he'd yell at people who didn't give him anything.

On our return to Rome, we bought tickets at the Naples station and it was interesting to see how aggressively people -- mostly younger men -- tried to cut in line. But my girlfriend held her place while I guarded her flank (and she had a rather nice flank at that. :) ) and we kept the testosteronites at bay.

I just felt intimidated in Naples, and I have never felt like that anywhere I've traveled before. Everyone warns of pickpockets in Rome, but I thought it was most likely that they'd be here! I thought maybe I got it all wrong and that someone would set me straight so I don't cross it off my list of places to explore in the future. (My train ride from Sorrento to Naples was fine. . .mostly back-packers and commuter types. Lots of graffiti, though!)

We loved Naples. Your husband's unfortunate incident can happen in the best of toilets.

I've only spent a day in Naples but I loved it. They have a really nice museum which is certainly worth the time for a visit. The thing I liked the most is the truly anarchical (?) spirit of the people; while this can be said about almost all Italians, it seems especially true in Naples.

A few years ago the city council passed an ordinance allowing the police to stop and ticket anybody not wearing a seatbelt. Overnight, t-shirts appeared for sale with a diagonal stripe across the chest to make it harder for the police to spot violators. You've got to love people with this spirit.

kellbell, I'm sure Naples probably does have quite a high rate of petty crime. If you read threads here you'll see people who love it and those who hate it. I was just talking with someone recently who told me she loved it, and didn't feel threatened at all while walking around the streets. I can't say it's high on my list of places to visit but I'd be willing to spend a day or so there sometime. As far as &quot;redeeming&quot; qualities, I know that, for just one thing, Naples has a famous museum -- named after me :) -- the Capodimonte.

http://www.naples-city.info/napoli/m...dimonteeng.htm

I think people who love it do so in large part because of the vibrancy of the people, and the street life.

Kellbell-if you think it's bad now, you should have seen it 20 years ago-I swear, there was almost total lawlessness! It was REALLY BAD then! They have cleaned up their act since that time, and there are parts that are quite charming, but- it's certainly not my favorite spot in Italy, that's for sure. And I certainly agree that there is a sense of seediness and &quot;anything goes&quot; behavior that one does not get further north-or, for that matter, even in Sicily.

The Neopolitans I had the pleasure to come in contact with were some of the most wonderful, warm, friendly, helpful people I've met in all my travels. The drivers can be a little scary tho.

Ok. . . I won't let my first impressions ruin me. I guess next time, we'll come into the city via car or the airport. And we'll steer clear of train station bathrooms!

Off to get my honeymoon pictures! I don't think we took any in Naples, unless I did it from the dock to get Vesuvius in the background!

Too bad you didn't have the time to take a fifteen minute walk from the train station to have the best pizza on earth. Maybe next time.

well there is the famous Marguerita pizza now, isn't there? (smile) The first pizza was created in Napoli, I believe!

You know, I have been to train stations all over Europe and the only place I ever felt at all uncomfortable was Napoli. Particularly going from the regular station to the Circumvasuviana. We ran into trouble making kids on two separate trips there. We just held are ground and marched straight ahead, but I will tell you my heart beat faster than usual.

Two men were doing it in the bathroom in Naples? Poor hubby must have been traumatized. If I were you I would boycott Italy. Hey, A couple was doing it in the bathroom on your return flight!

We very much enjoyed Naples. Their museums were great and the pizza the best ever. We found it very safe walking during the day. It was an easy day trip to Herculaneum via train. We did walk through a picket of some sort where the police were closing streets and lined up every where. We just walked by and left the area. I would return for the pizza alone!

Grasshopper,
I had to laugh when reading your post, wondering about your trouble-- was the trouble in MAKING kids or NOT making kids?

I know I've never had ANY trouble, and my heart always beats fast too !
((x)) ((z)) (({)) ((}))

ok, you got me! Nope, I &quot;made&quot; my two rather easily. The trouble came about 12 years later. :-)

I was referring to some kids in the 12-14 year old range smoking and flipping out switchblades who seemed to be stalking us. There was a guy who chased them away eventually.

&gt;...you should have seen it 20 years ago-I swear, there was almost total lawlessness!&lt;

Oh puleez, tone down the hyperbole would you?

nope, obx girl (aptly named!) it's a fact, I'm afraid. You weren't there as I was almost every two weeks, so you wouldn't know, now, would you?

p.s. and you STILL don't know what snogging means! (grin)

Airheadgirl,

I know what snogging is.

I lived in Naples 25 years ago. Perhaps things went to crap five years after that. I'm sure you would know. You're the official Fodors Zelig.

nope, you don't obxgirl-you showed that in your response. but that's okay, an obx girl wouldn't know much about anything 'cuz she's SO BUSY BEIN' OBNOXIOUS!!!!!! (SMILE)