Ireland Trip Reprt: First time but not the last!
Nov 18th, 2005, 12:06 AM
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Ireland Trip Reprt: First time but not the last!
<b>October 16th-30th </b>
We took our very first overseas trip to Europe and spent 13 wonderful days in Ireland. Being Irish/Italian and watching The Quiet Man with Grandpa since I was six... this has been a dream 30 years in the making! It really was 13 perfect days!
<b>Itinerary</b>
Kilkenny- 1 night
Cashel- 1 night
Killarney- 2 nights
Dingle- 1 night
Doolin- 1 night
Galway- 4 nights
Dublin- 3 nights
600 miles by car, 135 miles by train, 60 miles by boat, 12 miles by pony cart and 99 miles on foot.
<b>Money</b>
Had a friend visit Europe and exchange $130 for 100 Euro, used ATM withdrawls at no charge through our credit union to pay cash for almost everything, used CC twice for 60E and 25E and had no problem although the statement did have the bank's extra 2%.
<b>The Flight</b>
RT LAX - Dublin/ Dublin- LAX on Aer Lingus for $444.44 each was nice although to Dublin seemed a slightly older plane with movie screens every so many rows. The flight home was a newer plane with screens in back of seats for each person. The food really was nice, the service was excellent and while not roomy in coach I have been in alot smaller spaces. I think it helps to have had a side with just the 2 seats.
The only bad thing was actually shuffling through LAX...for getting there 3.5 hours early the plane began boarding just as we got there. We heard MANY people complaining that LAX was the worst they had ever seen. I do believe that we stood in 6 lines before sitting in our seats on the plane.
Wonderful to meet Shadow and chat about our upcoming adventure, a very kind and sweet lady...told me she is always looking for a flight buddy, so tempting that I am looking for all deals to Ireland again, now if I could only slip away without DH noticing!
<b>Transportation</b>
CAR:
Dan Dooley car rental 10 days, used MC Platinum, super CDW, automatic Nissan Micra, pick up Dublin/drop off Galway $568.
We were VERY, VERY pleased with Dan Dooly and the 4 door micra was roomier on the inside than it looked. We decided a 3rd person and suitcase would have fit. DH talked me into turning the car in after 8 days as he is a driver by trade and really didn't want to drive anymore. I really didn't have much to say as I tried about 2 miles and said I would be happy to stick to navigation ( I hate driving anyway)
Dooley credited us back the unused portion about $108.
TRAIN:
28E per person 1 way from Galway to Dublin...yes there are cheaper ways to go but it was lovely, different for us and was very relaxing.
<b>Things we loved</b>
super friendliness, Guinness (DH), chips all the time, electric water boiler, butter, pubs, trad music, weather, bacon, banoffee pie, bread & butter pudding, mega flush toilets (its a California thing), B&B breakfasts, all pub food, enjoying the company of new friends, pace of life, history everywhere, Heritage Card
<b>Things we missed, (even knowing they'd be missing)</b>
large coffee, warm water faucets, big showers, ice cubes, large coffee, soda/coffee refills, larger street signs, bathroom counter space, not having to climb so many stairs or walk quite so much.
We took our very first overseas trip to Europe and spent 13 wonderful days in Ireland. Being Irish/Italian and watching The Quiet Man with Grandpa since I was six... this has been a dream 30 years in the making! It really was 13 perfect days!
<b>Itinerary</b>
Kilkenny- 1 night
Cashel- 1 night
Killarney- 2 nights
Dingle- 1 night
Doolin- 1 night
Galway- 4 nights
Dublin- 3 nights
600 miles by car, 135 miles by train, 60 miles by boat, 12 miles by pony cart and 99 miles on foot.
<b>Money</b>
Had a friend visit Europe and exchange $130 for 100 Euro, used ATM withdrawls at no charge through our credit union to pay cash for almost everything, used CC twice for 60E and 25E and had no problem although the statement did have the bank's extra 2%.
<b>The Flight</b>
RT LAX - Dublin/ Dublin- LAX on Aer Lingus for $444.44 each was nice although to Dublin seemed a slightly older plane with movie screens every so many rows. The flight home was a newer plane with screens in back of seats for each person. The food really was nice, the service was excellent and while not roomy in coach I have been in alot smaller spaces. I think it helps to have had a side with just the 2 seats.
The only bad thing was actually shuffling through LAX...for getting there 3.5 hours early the plane began boarding just as we got there. We heard MANY people complaining that LAX was the worst they had ever seen. I do believe that we stood in 6 lines before sitting in our seats on the plane.
Wonderful to meet Shadow and chat about our upcoming adventure, a very kind and sweet lady...told me she is always looking for a flight buddy, so tempting that I am looking for all deals to Ireland again, now if I could only slip away without DH noticing!
<b>Transportation</b>
CAR:
Dan Dooley car rental 10 days, used MC Platinum, super CDW, automatic Nissan Micra, pick up Dublin/drop off Galway $568.
We were VERY, VERY pleased with Dan Dooly and the 4 door micra was roomier on the inside than it looked. We decided a 3rd person and suitcase would have fit. DH talked me into turning the car in after 8 days as he is a driver by trade and really didn't want to drive anymore. I really didn't have much to say as I tried about 2 miles and said I would be happy to stick to navigation ( I hate driving anyway)
Dooley credited us back the unused portion about $108.
TRAIN:
28E per person 1 way from Galway to Dublin...yes there are cheaper ways to go but it was lovely, different for us and was very relaxing.
<b>Things we loved</b>
super friendliness, Guinness (DH), chips all the time, electric water boiler, butter, pubs, trad music, weather, bacon, banoffee pie, bread & butter pudding, mega flush toilets (its a California thing), B&B breakfasts, all pub food, enjoying the company of new friends, pace of life, history everywhere, Heritage Card
<b>Things we missed, (even knowing they'd be missing)</b>
large coffee, warm water faucets, big showers, ice cubes, large coffee, soda/coffee refills, larger street signs, bathroom counter space, not having to climb so many stairs or walk quite so much.
Nov 18th, 2005, 01:52 AM
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<b>Off we go</b>
<b>Kilkenny</b>
BREGAGH HOUSE B&B -35E Per person
Greeted by owner at arrival as well as breakfast. Very willing to direct you to what you seek and a nice map and what to do listings in room. Small room, good bathroom and shower, extremely clean, parking available. Breakfast servings a little sparse and the sideboard offerings a little slim. I could stay again and rate this with a 3 of 5 stars.
TOWN
I want to go back for a few days, and really loved the way it all looked, I kept expecting Scrooge and Fezziwig to pop around a corner any minute!
KILKENNY CASTLE
very much worth a visit, nice tour and beautiful grounds, purchased Heritage cards here for 20E each. (without them we would have spent 49E per person by the end of our trip).
Lesson: give yourself 4 hours to get here if you are new to Ireland and driving differences, one wrong turn landed us in Downtown Dublin in our very first 15 minutes of driving and 45 minutes later we somehow squiggled out of the crazy maze and escaped quickly...
The best B&B is next! I shall return with Cashel, castle, mist & Hore
<b>Kilkenny</b>
BREGAGH HOUSE B&B -35E Per person
Greeted by owner at arrival as well as breakfast. Very willing to direct you to what you seek and a nice map and what to do listings in room. Small room, good bathroom and shower, extremely clean, parking available. Breakfast servings a little sparse and the sideboard offerings a little slim. I could stay again and rate this with a 3 of 5 stars.
TOWN
I want to go back for a few days, and really loved the way it all looked, I kept expecting Scrooge and Fezziwig to pop around a corner any minute!
KILKENNY CASTLE
very much worth a visit, nice tour and beautiful grounds, purchased Heritage cards here for 20E each. (without them we would have spent 49E per person by the end of our trip).
Lesson: give yourself 4 hours to get here if you are new to Ireland and driving differences, one wrong turn landed us in Downtown Dublin in our very first 15 minutes of driving and 45 minutes later we somehow squiggled out of the crazy maze and escaped quickly...
The best B&B is next! I shall return with Cashel, castle, mist & Hore
Nov 18th, 2005, 06:12 AM
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Dear 12, This is the fun of Fodor's. Reading about a trip before it happens and reading about it when it is over. You've brought a tear to my eyes and made me chuckle at the same time. I stayed 5 nights in Kilkenny at Langton's when it first added rooms. I enjoyed Kilkenny and loved the countryside. Can't wait for more. Sincerely, Joan
Nov 19th, 2005, 11:29 AM
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<b>Off we go</b>
KILKENNY- JERPOINT- KELLS- CASHEL
<b>Jerpoint</b>
(Heritage card)
Beautiful and interesting, carvings on the stone pillars and tombs are very interesting, some almost in caricature.
Had a personal tour (very informative) as it was misting rain and we were the only ones there. (this actually happened quite alot)
Jerpoint is where we discovered a few things, one being that the signs always seem to be literally right where you are supposed to turn or bear left or right. We missed it but were able to turn around just past.
The 2nd discovery was how amazing the people are. The woman at the Jerpoint lobby sent for a tour guide and chatted while we waited. Found out we were off to Kells and Cashel and while we were on tour wrote us detailed instructions and took a copy of her map to send us a better way through quiet back roads and amazing countryside. Drove through Kells, decided to continue and came across a lovely town, Callan for a quick break.
<b>Cashel</b>
JOY'S ROCKSIDE B&B -35E per person
Greeted by owner, lovely, clean, big bedroom, nice bathroom and shower. Located literally AT the base of the rock. Had a 2nd floor front room. Sturdy pine furniture, comfy beds and plenty of room. Good breakfast, menu choices. Overall, I would rate this 5 out of 5 stars. This was our favorite of all and DH wants to go back to Cashel because of the Joy's!
Relaxing in the sitting room that night and Rem found me (DH lulled to sleep by Guinness), we spent the evening having a wonderful talk, so fun that we were both shocked at how much time had passed. Rem and Joan are great!!!
<b>Food</b>
Hannagin's Pub, reccomended by our B&B and ironically the same pub we had stopped in for directions earlier. Great pub food, Shepard's Pie for both of us and we chuckled as it was served with chips and potato salad. Sevice was very nice, food was melt-in-mouth and craic was great. The way it ws set up led from one meeting to others joing in and it was a blast.
<b>The Rock & The Hore</b>
Arrived at sunset, would have been earlier but we couldn't find it! Yes, we could SEE the Rock and people kept telling us it was right there...duh, we could see that but where the heck was the entrance? Stopped at a pub and someone actually walked me down the street and pointed to the tiny little road that we would have never found!
Checked in and ran up to the path of the rock for some amazing views and pics. Just glorious, had to sit and just take it in, timeless.
Morning walk through the Rock and a walk to Hore Abbey all by ourselves, except for the cows. No crowds, no noise, I loved the old Hore, she was great and gave us all she had to offer for free.
Coming up next...taking Cahir, cottage & Killarney...you people could have warned me!
KILKENNY- JERPOINT- KELLS- CASHEL
<b>Jerpoint</b>
(Heritage card)
Beautiful and interesting, carvings on the stone pillars and tombs are very interesting, some almost in caricature.
Had a personal tour (very informative) as it was misting rain and we were the only ones there. (this actually happened quite alot)
Jerpoint is where we discovered a few things, one being that the signs always seem to be literally right where you are supposed to turn or bear left or right. We missed it but were able to turn around just past.
The 2nd discovery was how amazing the people are. The woman at the Jerpoint lobby sent for a tour guide and chatted while we waited. Found out we were off to Kells and Cashel and while we were on tour wrote us detailed instructions and took a copy of her map to send us a better way through quiet back roads and amazing countryside. Drove through Kells, decided to continue and came across a lovely town, Callan for a quick break.
<b>Cashel</b>
JOY'S ROCKSIDE B&B -35E per person
Greeted by owner, lovely, clean, big bedroom, nice bathroom and shower. Located literally AT the base of the rock. Had a 2nd floor front room. Sturdy pine furniture, comfy beds and plenty of room. Good breakfast, menu choices. Overall, I would rate this 5 out of 5 stars. This was our favorite of all and DH wants to go back to Cashel because of the Joy's!
Relaxing in the sitting room that night and Rem found me (DH lulled to sleep by Guinness), we spent the evening having a wonderful talk, so fun that we were both shocked at how much time had passed. Rem and Joan are great!!!
<b>Food</b>
Hannagin's Pub, reccomended by our B&B and ironically the same pub we had stopped in for directions earlier. Great pub food, Shepard's Pie for both of us and we chuckled as it was served with chips and potato salad. Sevice was very nice, food was melt-in-mouth and craic was great. The way it ws set up led from one meeting to others joing in and it was a blast.
<b>The Rock & The Hore</b>
Arrived at sunset, would have been earlier but we couldn't find it! Yes, we could SEE the Rock and people kept telling us it was right there...duh, we could see that but where the heck was the entrance? Stopped at a pub and someone actually walked me down the street and pointed to the tiny little road that we would have never found!
Checked in and ran up to the path of the rock for some amazing views and pics. Just glorious, had to sit and just take it in, timeless.
Morning walk through the Rock and a walk to Hore Abbey all by ourselves, except for the cows. No crowds, no noise, I loved the old Hore, she was great and gave us all she had to offer for free.
Coming up next...taking Cahir, cottage & Killarney...you people could have warned me!
Nov 19th, 2005, 01:45 PM
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Great report, 12
This is why I love this forum, I get to read about places I want to go to and a lot of places I haven’t even known they existed. And then I want to go there, too.
Hope I live 1000 years to get to see them all
Anyway 12, do you have any pictures from this trip? Would love to see them. Thanks again for the report, waiting for more.
This is why I love this forum, I get to read about places I want to go to and a lot of places I haven’t even known they existed. And then I want to go there, too.
Hope I live 1000 years to get to see them all
Anyway 12, do you have any pictures from this trip? Would love to see them. Thanks again for the report, waiting for more.
Nov 20th, 2005, 02:31 PM
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xyz99...I hope to get my pictures organized soon and then will figure out how to make a link here to them.
Westsider,
Galway was a change in our plans due to a bad choice (DH says misrepresentation) of where we were supposed to stay, causing quite a bit of changes to my itinerary.
We really used Galway as spokes on a wheel and did trips to Aran Islands, Connemara by bus, day trip to Cong. There is ALOT of construction going on in Galway city center and all we really did there was a little shopping and pub dinners each nite.
You can also do a day trip to Cliffs of Moher and the Burren but we had come from that direction in our car and did that on our own.
The TI in Galway is great and they really have great info. on what to do!
Westsider,
Galway was a change in our plans due to a bad choice (DH says misrepresentation) of where we were supposed to stay, causing quite a bit of changes to my itinerary.
We really used Galway as spokes on a wheel and did trips to Aran Islands, Connemara by bus, day trip to Cong. There is ALOT of construction going on in Galway city center and all we really did there was a little shopping and pub dinners each nite.
You can also do a day trip to Cliffs of Moher and the Burren but we had come from that direction in our car and did that on our own.
The TI in Galway is great and they really have great info. on what to do!
Nov 20th, 2005, 03:25 PM
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12perfectdays,
Enjoying your trip report. Can I ask you what company you used for your Connemara tour? What did you think of using the bus for the tour? Thinking of going that route because of the February weather. Thanks!
Enjoying your trip report. Can I ask you what company you used for your Connemara tour? What did you think of using the bus for the tour? Thinking of going that route because of the February weather. Thanks!
Nov 20th, 2005, 10:13 PM
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12perfectdays: great report! I like your style of writing! I am always amazed at what some folks can remember!
Ireland really is addicting!! I always recommend the Rock of Cashel...one of my favorite places!
Looking forward to more of your report...its great!
Shadow
Ireland really is addicting!! I always recommend the Rock of Cashel...one of my favorite places!
Looking forward to more of your report...its great!
Shadow
Nov 21st, 2005, 03:01 AM
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Lovely to hear your report and your mention of Kilkenny......I have a dear lady from there who buys lace and trimmings from us here in South Africa. Ireland is definitely calling me to visit!
Looking forward to the rest of your lovely trip.
Looking forward to the rest of your lovely trip.
Nov 21st, 2005, 03:54 AM
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<b>On the road again...</b>
CASHEL- CAHIR- SWISS COTTAGE- KILLARNEY
<b>Cahir Castle</b>
<i>Heritage card</i>
20 minute tour was interesting but the really great thing about this castle is that they let you loose to run around everywhere, turrets, wells, underground, up to the top and all around on your own, very cool!
<b>Swiss Cottage</b>
<i>Heritage card</i>
This would be my Ireland home if I could have it and this is what the rich people pretended to live in as peasants!
Even the walk over the bridge and through the woods from the parking lot was enchanting.
Once again found ourselves to be the only ones there and the next tour wasn't for another 45 minutes. Took a walk around the grounds and this wonderful woman pops outside and says to come on back in, locks the front and gives us a private tour!
<b>Driving breaks</b>
~o)Actually coffee breaks where I also could clarify directions while DH waited in the car, (shhh...he's still praising my navigation skills!)
Interesting things about these mini-marts, the food is really great, some even bake their own bread and carve their own meats, great for on the go. (two 6" ham and cheese sandwiches made for us for 1.50E each). Small bottle soda is about 1.65E and a swig of coffee in a Dixie cup is 2.00E (the machines dispense an exact amount only.
) I was also amazed over all the school kids getting lunch around town. Coming from the La area, that really took me by suprise!
<b>Killarney</b>
ABBEY LODGE B&B 40E per person
We zigged when we should have zagged and circled around a few times, pulled into a gas station to call for directions and found it right across the street...Duh!
Greeted by young female, all business, never cracked a smile, never saw owners, very hotel like atmosphere.
Large room, queen bed, table and chairs,TV, small bathroom but a deep tub. All was fine on our 2nd nite as I had Ms. No smile clean the wall of dust and spider web...I had cleaned the lamp over my side of the bed. They also replaced one of the extra pillows that had a case over a stain so large you could see it through the cover. Found out there was nothing wrong with our heat, it would come on at 8am...nice if you stay in the room all day.
Breakfast was okay, I drank all the coffee. For the price I would have stayed at other places mentioned here, paid less and drive/park. 2 of 5 stars.
<b>Dinner</b>
O'Riains
66 High St, Killarney
on west side of street next to Penney's clothing, opened only 6 weeks, the chef/owner Tadgh Corkery is fantastic! We actually ended up there both nights.
Cabbage & Bacon was melt in your mouth, fish & chips was huge and tasty. Steak sandwich on bap all about 9.50E. Big veal dinner about 12E, banoffee pie every night. The man has a way with sauces!
<b>Tours</b>
Took Dero's tour of the Gap of Dunloe for 45E each. No time at Kate Kearney's cottage the pony cart was waiting. We did not see alot of people. 5 of us on the trip and #5 wanted to walk. Figuring out how all 4 of us were going to fit in that little box took a few minutes and we saddled an extra horse to switch off...NO WAY would we have all 4 fit without feeling a little too familiar!
It was beatuiful, cold and fun. Enjoyed boating down the lake and was glad for the info from Italian Chauffer about there being no time for Ross Castle. Sent everyone (all 4) back without us and went on inside.
ROSS CASTLE
<i>Heritage card</i>
The best, most informative tour of all. You couldn't climb about on your own but the guide was fun, informed and as she spoke you could tell she was enthralled by the history herself... besides,I even got to set my tushie on a 600 yr old toilet ledge...how many people get to say that (or admit to it)
Hopped a ride back to town with a couple from the castle tour
TORC FALLS
Gave a fellow B&B guest a ride to Torc waterfall for a hike, although DH and I only went as far as the waterfall. It was raging and again we were the only visitors.
<b>Thanks for the warning!</b>
I know everyone has said you walk alot in Europe but OMG! It is ALOT! Prepare for 8 miles a day. DH swears that the Irish invented steps. (Steep, narrow, uneven tricky steps for sure!)
Parking lots are nowhere near the entrance and all sights are always uphill both ways ((&
)
If you are American and someone in Ireland says it will only be a 10 minute walk, double it because it is either uphill and 600 stairs or 3 miles away with all kinds of things to look at on the way (like missing street signs)
I am not whining about all the walking...okay, I am, but if you aren't up for 15 miles in one day, do NOT do Cashel, Hore Abbey, Cahir, Swiss Cottage and city center Killarney. We really did average about 8-9 miles a day.
Coming up... The ring of Dingle (renewing our vows, Connor pass and The Shores B&B)
CASHEL- CAHIR- SWISS COTTAGE- KILLARNEY
<b>Cahir Castle</b>
<i>Heritage card</i>
20 minute tour was interesting but the really great thing about this castle is that they let you loose to run around everywhere, turrets, wells, underground, up to the top and all around on your own, very cool!
<b>Swiss Cottage</b>
<i>Heritage card</i>
This would be my Ireland home if I could have it and this is what the rich people pretended to live in as peasants!
Even the walk over the bridge and through the woods from the parking lot was enchanting.
Once again found ourselves to be the only ones there and the next tour wasn't for another 45 minutes. Took a walk around the grounds and this wonderful woman pops outside and says to come on back in, locks the front and gives us a private tour!
<b>Driving breaks</b>
~o)Actually coffee breaks where I also could clarify directions while DH waited in the car, (shhh...he's still praising my navigation skills!)
Interesting things about these mini-marts, the food is really great, some even bake their own bread and carve their own meats, great for on the go. (two 6" ham and cheese sandwiches made for us for 1.50E each). Small bottle soda is about 1.65E and a swig of coffee in a Dixie cup is 2.00E (the machines dispense an exact amount only.
) I was also amazed over all the school kids getting lunch around town. Coming from the La area, that really took me by suprise!<b>Killarney</b>
ABBEY LODGE B&B 40E per person
We zigged when we should have zagged and circled around a few times, pulled into a gas station to call for directions and found it right across the street...Duh!
Greeted by young female, all business, never cracked a smile, never saw owners, very hotel like atmosphere.
Large room, queen bed, table and chairs,TV, small bathroom but a deep tub. All was fine on our 2nd nite as I had Ms. No smile clean the wall of dust and spider web...I had cleaned the lamp over my side of the bed. They also replaced one of the extra pillows that had a case over a stain so large you could see it through the cover. Found out there was nothing wrong with our heat, it would come on at 8am...nice if you stay in the room all day.
Breakfast was okay, I drank all the coffee. For the price I would have stayed at other places mentioned here, paid less and drive/park. 2 of 5 stars.
<b>Dinner</b>
O'Riains
66 High St, Killarney
on west side of street next to Penney's clothing, opened only 6 weeks, the chef/owner Tadgh Corkery is fantastic! We actually ended up there both nights.
Cabbage & Bacon was melt in your mouth, fish & chips was huge and tasty. Steak sandwich on bap all about 9.50E. Big veal dinner about 12E, banoffee pie every night. The man has a way with sauces!
<b>Tours</b>
Took Dero's tour of the Gap of Dunloe for 45E each. No time at Kate Kearney's cottage the pony cart was waiting. We did not see alot of people. 5 of us on the trip and #5 wanted to walk. Figuring out how all 4 of us were going to fit in that little box took a few minutes and we saddled an extra horse to switch off...NO WAY would we have all 4 fit without feeling a little too familiar!
It was beatuiful, cold and fun. Enjoyed boating down the lake and was glad for the info from Italian Chauffer about there being no time for Ross Castle. Sent everyone (all 4) back without us and went on inside.
ROSS CASTLE
<i>Heritage card</i>
The best, most informative tour of all. You couldn't climb about on your own but the guide was fun, informed and as she spoke you could tell she was enthralled by the history herself... besides,I even got to set my tushie on a 600 yr old toilet ledge...how many people get to say that (or admit to it)
Hopped a ride back to town with a couple from the castle tour
TORC FALLS
Gave a fellow B&B guest a ride to Torc waterfall for a hike, although DH and I only went as far as the waterfall. It was raging and again we were the only visitors.
<b>Thanks for the warning!</b>
I know everyone has said you walk alot in Europe but OMG! It is ALOT! Prepare for 8 miles a day. DH swears that the Irish invented steps. (Steep, narrow, uneven tricky steps for sure!)
Parking lots are nowhere near the entrance and all sights are always uphill both ways ((&
)If you are American and someone in Ireland says it will only be a 10 minute walk, double it because it is either uphill and 600 stairs or 3 miles away with all kinds of things to look at on the way (like missing street signs)
I am not whining about all the walking...okay, I am, but if you aren't up for 15 miles in one day, do NOT do Cashel, Hore Abbey, Cahir, Swiss Cottage and city center Killarney. We really did average about 8-9 miles a day.
Coming up... The ring of Dingle
(renewing our vows, Connor pass and The Shores B&B)
Nov 21st, 2005, 11:20 AM
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ZaneyJaney...there are 3 tour companies and we looked them over and chose Lally Tours. I think because it was 30 minutes longer and stopped in Maam Cross although the routes the others take vary only slightly. We enjoyed using Lally alot. All of the tour busses pick up right across from the TI in Galway and they were extremely helpful!
Yikes!!! I think I was up a little too late...the warning about walking really sounds whiney and I was going for a little tounge in cheek! Sorry all-
Dawn
Yikes!!! I think I was up a little too late...the warning about walking really sounds whiney and I was going for a little tounge in cheek! Sorry all-
Dawn
Nov 23rd, 2005, 01:04 AM
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<b>Dingle Peninsula</b>
Wandered about Dingle Town for about an hour. Followed the Slea Head Drive tour from Rick Steves book, a great drive that I could definitely do again. We had quite a bit of freezing wind & rain and really only did the highlights. Sorry to have missed the Blasket Center but I was defrosting. Dunbeg Fort and Beehive Huts were interesting. I could have stayed for hours at the Gallarus Oratory.
Stopped at Kilmalkedar Church to renew our vows by touching fingers through the hole in the ogham stone. This was funny as I had not told DH what we were doing. When he saw me standing there with my finger in the rock he walked up and poked his finger at mine. I leaned forward and gave him a smooch and told him we had just renewed our vows. The smarty fell to his knees and begged God for mercy. Ha Ha
<b>Connor Pass</b>
We survived! It was a little scary for a few minutes because of the wind and rain and construction but we were happily waylaid by the construction people getting off work. 2 of the big trucks were ahead of us going our way so we tootled right along behind them.
<b>Castle Gregory</b>
THE SHORES B&B 37E per person
Just when we felt the need to be out of the car and walk off Connor Pass, up pops The Shores and we pulled right in.
Annette gave us a choice of rooms and remembering Budman we chose the 2nd floor, front with the balcony.
The house is beautiful, the bedroom was beautiful, the bathroom was FANTASTIC...top of the line. Clean, fresh, antiques, the view was magnificent and breakfast was the best in Ireland, especially the way it is served. I loved it and would stay again. The only disappointment was that Annette's helper was a no show and dinner did not happen, Annette sent us down the street to a pub. Gave myself a two minute pout when I opened the breakfast menu that Annette asked us to choose from for the morning and there was the dinner menu that wasn't going to happen. Huge bummer! The only other complaint came from DH, said He felt, "like a bull in a china shop". I didn't help matters any with my swan dive across the room trying to catch the jacket he tossed on the white spread or my gasp when he almost spilled a drop of coffee on the cream carpet. The Shores gets 4.75 stars from an average of both judges.
KILLIMER-TARBERT FERRY
14E per car
A great timesaver. Had I known just how much time, I would have stopped at a few of the sweater and glass stores we had passed on the way.
<b>Cliffs of Moher</b>
Took the costal route from the ferry to Kilkee and north toward Doolin. Arrived at the Cliffs late afternoon as suggested and it was beautiful. This is where we saw our first crowd. There weren't a ton of people but in comparison to all we had seen alone. The sunset was inspiring.
<b>Doolin</b>
CULLINAN"S B&B 35E per person
Very clean, rustic oak. Shown to room by staff. Spacious bathroom, beautiful view overlooking the little river and cows with the last of the sunset as a backdrop. I really liked it here and would stay again. Just as I had read here, the owners are a tad cold and very standoffish. Breakfast was very nice. They get 4.25 of 5 stars.
This is where we met up with Pam Conlan and her husband. We left each other notes on the doors and caught up about 8pm at McGann's. Wonderful people, such an enjoyable time that we lingered at breakfast and all got a later start than intended.
MC GANN'S PUB
Just as I heard, the irish stew was great, shared dinner with a couple from Dublin that visit often just to hear our waitress sing. A set was supposed to start at 9:30 for about an hour but the whole town showed up early, someone local was moving and suddenly the music started about 8:30 and went on past midnite with all kinds of people changing seats to play and sing.
<b>The Burren</b>
Very interesting to see and I realized too late (we had already turned) that we could have made it to the Burren Center but we pressed on and I had DH turn in to check out the <b>Aillwee Caves</b>. 10E per person. It was interesting and we got to walk the caves as well as great outside views and walk the burren for a bit.
Back soon with Cregg Castle...were we being Punk'd or caught in an Amityville remake?
Wandered about Dingle Town for about an hour. Followed the Slea Head Drive tour from Rick Steves book, a great drive that I could definitely do again. We had quite a bit of freezing wind & rain and really only did the highlights. Sorry to have missed the Blasket Center but I was defrosting. Dunbeg Fort and Beehive Huts were interesting. I could have stayed for hours at the Gallarus Oratory.
Stopped at Kilmalkedar Church to renew our vows by touching fingers through the hole in the ogham stone. This was funny as I had not told DH what we were doing. When he saw me standing there with my finger in the rock he walked up and poked his finger at mine. I leaned forward and gave him a smooch and told him we had just renewed our vows. The smarty fell to his knees and begged God for mercy. Ha Ha
<b>Connor Pass</b>
We survived! It was a little scary for a few minutes because of the wind and rain and construction but we were happily waylaid by the construction people getting off work. 2 of the big trucks were ahead of us going our way so we tootled right along behind them.
<b>Castle Gregory</b>
THE SHORES B&B 37E per person
Just when we felt the need to be out of the car and walk off Connor Pass, up pops The Shores and we pulled right in.
Annette gave us a choice of rooms and remembering Budman we chose the 2nd floor, front with the balcony.
The house is beautiful, the bedroom was beautiful, the bathroom was FANTASTIC...top of the line. Clean, fresh, antiques, the view was magnificent and breakfast was the best in Ireland, especially the way it is served. I loved it and would stay again. The only disappointment was that Annette's helper was a no show and dinner did not happen, Annette sent us down the street to a pub. Gave myself a two minute pout when I opened the breakfast menu that Annette asked us to choose from for the morning and there was the dinner menu that wasn't going to happen. Huge bummer! The only other complaint came from DH, said He felt, "like a bull in a china shop". I didn't help matters any with my swan dive across the room trying to catch the jacket he tossed on the white spread or my gasp when he almost spilled a drop of coffee on the cream carpet. The Shores gets 4.75 stars from an average of both judges.
KILLIMER-TARBERT FERRY
14E per car
A great timesaver. Had I known just how much time, I would have stopped at a few of the sweater and glass stores we had passed on the way.
<b>Cliffs of Moher</b>
Took the costal route from the ferry to Kilkee and north toward Doolin. Arrived at the Cliffs late afternoon as suggested and it was beautiful. This is where we saw our first crowd. There weren't a ton of people but in comparison to all we had seen alone. The sunset was inspiring.
<b>Doolin</b>
CULLINAN"S B&B 35E per person
Very clean, rustic oak. Shown to room by staff. Spacious bathroom, beautiful view overlooking the little river and cows with the last of the sunset as a backdrop. I really liked it here and would stay again. Just as I had read here, the owners are a tad cold and very standoffish. Breakfast was very nice. They get 4.25 of 5 stars.
This is where we met up with Pam Conlan and her husband. We left each other notes on the doors and caught up about 8pm at McGann's. Wonderful people, such an enjoyable time that we lingered at breakfast and all got a later start than intended.
MC GANN'S PUB
Just as I heard, the irish stew was great, shared dinner with a couple from Dublin that visit often just to hear our waitress sing. A set was supposed to start at 9:30 for about an hour but the whole town showed up early, someone local was moving and suddenly the music started about 8:30 and went on past midnite with all kinds of people changing seats to play and sing.
<b>The Burren</b>
Very interesting to see and I realized too late (we had already turned) that we could have made it to the Burren Center but we pressed on and I had DH turn in to check out the <b>Aillwee Caves</b>. 10E per person. It was interesting and we got to walk the caves as well as great outside views and walk the burren for a bit.
Back soon with Cregg Castle...were we being Punk'd or caught in an Amityville remake?
Nov 30th, 2005, 05:49 AM
#18
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I am loving your trip report! Very well done and it sounds like you had a wonderful time!
LOL about walking...it seems like everywhere in Europe is like that! My feet always end up killing me in the end, probably because I am from St. Louis where we drive everywhere so I'm not used to walking that much. But Europe is so great to walk in that its worth it!
Can't wait for the next installment!
Tracy
LOL about walking...it seems like everywhere in Europe is like that! My feet always end up killing me in the end, probably because I am from St. Louis where we drive everywhere so I'm not used to walking that much. But Europe is so great to walk in that its worth it!
Can't wait for the next installment!
Tracy
Nov 30th, 2005, 04:36 PM
#20
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Thanks, 12, I am enjoying reading your report. We are looking forward to our 5th trip, maybe next March. We drove the Connor Pass through major construction in October 04, I can't believe they are still working on it!
Your Kilkenny B&B reminds me of one we stayed in 10 years ago (also in Kilkenny). We were met by an unsmiling employee, the breakfast service was perfunctory and we were unable to rouse anyone to help us later when we couldn't figure out how to make a phone call from the pay phone in the hall. (We still have trouble with the phones in Ireland!)
More!
Your Kilkenny B&B reminds me of one we stayed in 10 years ago (also in Kilkenny). We were met by an unsmiling employee, the breakfast service was perfunctory and we were unable to rouse anyone to help us later when we couldn't figure out how to make a phone call from the pay phone in the hall. (We still have trouble with the phones in Ireland!)
More!
