Ireland Trip Report: March/April 2012
Apr 9th, 2012, 03:39 PM
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Ireland Trip Report: March/April 2012
Well, I’ve returned from our two week Ireland adventure, and Mom and I had a fantastic trip. We traveled March 24-Apr 6, stopping in Cashel, Dingle, Killarney, and Galway, where my sister joined us from April 1. My exhaustive research definitely paid off, and I promised myself I would post a trip report. I’m hoping if I start now it will motivate me to finish while the memories are fresh! This will probably get long and detailed- you’ve been warned.
For now, a few reflections. I still can’t believe how fortunate we were with the weather. Our first week was bright sun, blue skies, and warm temperatures. The second week cooled down, but only one day of spotty rain/sleet. Nothing that affected our plans at all. How do you spend two weeks in Ireland with no rain?? We said to each other many times that while in Ireland, no matter where you were, it seemed everywhere you looked was a photograph (and, indeed, I took over 800 of them!). Even driving down the motorway, you’re surrounded by green fields, stone walls, mountains, and more.
And the driving…well. An experience to remember! Yes- the roads really are that narrow. Yes- those stone walls really are that close to the car. Yes- the sheep and cows really do show up out of nowhere. Yes- the Irish drivers really do drive that fast! You hear these things over and over, but it still takes experiencing them to truly ‘get it’. That said, we really had very little trouble with the car. We had a manual shift, Mom was the driver, and overall, adjusted quite well. I underestimated how much of an adjustment being the passenger would require though- it took a couple days for both of us to gain a relative comfort zone. The raised reflectors placed on the side of most roads were my guide- I heavily relied on them to let me know if we were ok or if I was about to be driven into a wall. That’s not to say there weren’t a few close calls with hedges, curbs, or posts though
All part of the fun.
For now, a few reflections. I still can’t believe how fortunate we were with the weather. Our first week was bright sun, blue skies, and warm temperatures. The second week cooled down, but only one day of spotty rain/sleet. Nothing that affected our plans at all. How do you spend two weeks in Ireland with no rain?? We said to each other many times that while in Ireland, no matter where you were, it seemed everywhere you looked was a photograph (and, indeed, I took over 800 of them!). Even driving down the motorway, you’re surrounded by green fields, stone walls, mountains, and more.
And the driving…well. An experience to remember! Yes- the roads really are that narrow. Yes- those stone walls really are that close to the car. Yes- the sheep and cows really do show up out of nowhere. Yes- the Irish drivers really do drive that fast! You hear these things over and over, but it still takes experiencing them to truly ‘get it’. That said, we really had very little trouble with the car. We had a manual shift, Mom was the driver, and overall, adjusted quite well. I underestimated how much of an adjustment being the passenger would require though- it took a couple days for both of us to gain a relative comfort zone. The raised reflectors placed on the side of most roads were my guide- I heavily relied on them to let me know if we were ok or if I was about to be driven into a wall. That’s not to say there weren’t a few close calls with hedges, curbs, or posts though
All part of the fun.
Apr 9th, 2012, 04:29 PM
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Nice start to your trip report, can't wait to hear...the rest of the story! We went last year the exact same dates...and experienced the exact same weather! Coincidence? Maybe we will shoot for another trip during that time frame in 2013!rvflyer
Apr 9th, 2012, 04:59 PM
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That is quite a coincidence rvflyer!
My first two installments:
Day 1
We arrive into Dublin at about 8:00 after our overnight flight. Blue skies, sun, green grass, and rabbits next to the runway. Welcome to Ireland! We knew this was our make it or break it moment- picking up the rental from Budget and making it out of Dublin in one piece. We find the car, take a spin around the rental lot, and go for it. I still don’t know how we did it- a combination of adrenaline, shock, luck, and a GPS telling us which lane to be in- but we made it to the motorway no problem and began our drive to Cashel. I’ve heard many warnings about driving too much on day 1, but this was a good distance for us. After driving a bit, including a stop for coffee and snacks, we were feeling good- confident even! I spotted a sign for Kilkenny Castle, and, with time to kill, we decided to detour.
Too bad we never did find that castle! What did happen was we got lost, then back on track via a classic Irish ‘road’, and when we were finally within a few miles of our destination, the car broke down. Yup- this simple detour had certainly thrown us into the deep end, so to speak. Another thing you hear constantly- the Irish are very friendly and helpful. Before we’d even fully processed the situation, two separate gentlemen had stopped, got under the hood, had the problem fixed (a dislodged petrol line, I think), and had us pointed in the right direction in no time! Fortunately, that was the only issue we encountered with the rental for the rest of the trip. A bit shaken, we passed on finding the castle and made our way back to the main road- though we did stop for some photos of a castle ruin along the way, which was nice.
Nothing too exciting to report from there. We made it to Cashel and our B&B- Joy’s Rockside House. I’ll just say that it lives up to all the positive reviews, and I highly recommend it. We felt very welcomed by Joan, and our room had a view of the Rock of Cashel- very nice. We stayed two nights, and breakfast was delicious. However, of all our locations, there wasn’t one breakfast I didn’t like. I’m easy to please there. We wandered around town for a while, found some food, and crashed early for the night.
My first two installments:
Day 1
We arrive into Dublin at about 8:00 after our overnight flight. Blue skies, sun, green grass, and rabbits next to the runway. Welcome to Ireland! We knew this was our make it or break it moment- picking up the rental from Budget and making it out of Dublin in one piece. We find the car, take a spin around the rental lot, and go for it. I still don’t know how we did it- a combination of adrenaline, shock, luck, and a GPS telling us which lane to be in- but we made it to the motorway no problem and began our drive to Cashel. I’ve heard many warnings about driving too much on day 1, but this was a good distance for us. After driving a bit, including a stop for coffee and snacks, we were feeling good- confident even! I spotted a sign for Kilkenny Castle, and, with time to kill, we decided to detour.
Too bad we never did find that castle! What did happen was we got lost, then back on track via a classic Irish ‘road’, and when we were finally within a few miles of our destination, the car broke down. Yup- this simple detour had certainly thrown us into the deep end, so to speak. Another thing you hear constantly- the Irish are very friendly and helpful. Before we’d even fully processed the situation, two separate gentlemen had stopped, got under the hood, had the problem fixed (a dislodged petrol line, I think), and had us pointed in the right direction in no time! Fortunately, that was the only issue we encountered with the rental for the rest of the trip. A bit shaken, we passed on finding the castle and made our way back to the main road- though we did stop for some photos of a castle ruin along the way, which was nice.
Nothing too exciting to report from there. We made it to Cashel and our B&B- Joy’s Rockside House. I’ll just say that it lives up to all the positive reviews, and I highly recommend it. We felt very welcomed by Joan, and our room had a view of the Rock of Cashel- very nice. We stayed two nights, and breakfast was delicious. However, of all our locations, there wasn’t one breakfast I didn’t like. I’m easy to please there. We wandered around town for a while, found some food, and crashed early for the night.
Apr 9th, 2012, 05:01 PM
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Day 2
After breakfast, we walked up the hill to Rock of Cashel. They’re doing reconstructive work currently, so there was a large section of scaffolding in place. This sort of lessens the impact of the place, and some of the photos, but I can appreciate the work they’re doing. It was no less interesting to wander around, though, and the crows swooping about, building nests, and making a racket seemed very medieval to me. After exploring the Rock, we walked down the hill toward Hore Abbey, stopping to visit with some sheep on the other side of the fence. This would be a recurring event- sheep and lambs. I just couldn’t get enough of the cute little things. Maybe it’s good that I never got around to trying the Irish lamb stew anywhere. Hore Abbey was also great fun to explore. We were the only ones there and were nearly the only ones at the Rock- very peaceful.
Then we moved on to Cahir Castle. This was a highlight. I felt like a big kid climbing the walls, up and down stairs, and exploring every nook and cranny. I especially liked the discovery of the murder hole, which is one of my favorite features of many of these old castles and strongholds. Very cool invention! It was so nice out we decided to follow the Suir River walk to the Swiss Cottage, which was closed. Oh well- a worthwhile stroll anyway. Lots of families were out and about enjoying the sun.
After buying some sandwiches to eat beside the river, we were feeling ambitious and went on to follow the scenic Vee drive into the mountains. Gorgeous views- and a bit scary! We had our first roadside sheep encounters here, and we also discovered why it’s a good thing the rental car had the hubcaps zip-tied on. And all on our first full day. No regrets became a motto for us on the trip.
We closed the day with another stroll around Cashel and stopped by Bolton Library, even though it was closed. There was a portion of the original city walls nearby as well. We also stopped by our first pub that night, which had some live music…country music! No big deal, we would have some good traditional music in our future, plus I had my first pint of Guinness. It’s true what they say- I’ve never liked Guinness before, and yet in Ireland, I really did!
After breakfast, we walked up the hill to Rock of Cashel. They’re doing reconstructive work currently, so there was a large section of scaffolding in place. This sort of lessens the impact of the place, and some of the photos, but I can appreciate the work they’re doing. It was no less interesting to wander around, though, and the crows swooping about, building nests, and making a racket seemed very medieval to me. After exploring the Rock, we walked down the hill toward Hore Abbey, stopping to visit with some sheep on the other side of the fence. This would be a recurring event- sheep and lambs. I just couldn’t get enough of the cute little things. Maybe it’s good that I never got around to trying the Irish lamb stew anywhere. Hore Abbey was also great fun to explore. We were the only ones there and were nearly the only ones at the Rock- very peaceful.
Then we moved on to Cahir Castle. This was a highlight. I felt like a big kid climbing the walls, up and down stairs, and exploring every nook and cranny. I especially liked the discovery of the murder hole, which is one of my favorite features of many of these old castles and strongholds. Very cool invention! It was so nice out we decided to follow the Suir River walk to the Swiss Cottage, which was closed. Oh well- a worthwhile stroll anyway. Lots of families were out and about enjoying the sun.
After buying some sandwiches to eat beside the river, we were feeling ambitious and went on to follow the scenic Vee drive into the mountains. Gorgeous views- and a bit scary! We had our first roadside sheep encounters here, and we also discovered why it’s a good thing the rental car had the hubcaps zip-tied on. And all on our first full day. No regrets became a motto for us on the trip.
We closed the day with another stroll around Cashel and stopped by Bolton Library, even though it was closed. There was a portion of the original city walls nearby as well. We also stopped by our first pub that night, which had some live music…country music! No big deal, we would have some good traditional music in our future, plus I had my first pint of Guinness. It’s true what they say- I’ve never liked Guinness before, and yet in Ireland, I really did!
Apr 12th, 2012, 05:49 PM
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I finally had some down time today, so I present to you the next 4 days...
Day 3
Today’s final destination- Dingle. Joan suggested a route to us that took us via the Glen of Aherlow and Adare. Driving through the Glen was a great tip- fantastic scenic views as expected. We were getting more comfortable with the car by now, too, gaining more practice in the mountains. We stopped in Adare for lunch, though we didn’t end up walking around too much. I would have like to see Desmond Castle, which we passed on the way in, but tours weren’t running yet. We ate at the Good Room Cafe- tasty! It was a cute little place with an interesting menu. Then it was on to Dingle. We decided to drive by Inch Beach and stopped there for a bit to walk around. Our home for the next two nights was Coastline B&B. Vivienne was very welcoming, and this was probably my favorite lodging of the trip. We had a large room with a patio, bay view, and the best shower I’ve had in a while. Better than my own!
We took a walk around the harbor and into town where I had some Bailey’s ice cream from Murphy’s, which also had such enticing flavors as sea salt and brown bread. Vivienne had given us a couple spots for music that night, so we decided to relax in the room for a while, then head out for a late dinner before finding a pub. Not the best idea, as most food places were either closed, or nicer/more expensive than we wanted. We ended up getting some take out from a diner just before they closed. We stopped by O’Flaherty’s, which I’d heard was one of the best places for traditional music. I have to say I was underwhelmed, though. The two musicians/singers were talented, but I think things were a bit more subdued than I’d been hoping for.
Day 3
Today’s final destination- Dingle. Joan suggested a route to us that took us via the Glen of Aherlow and Adare. Driving through the Glen was a great tip- fantastic scenic views as expected. We were getting more comfortable with the car by now, too, gaining more practice in the mountains. We stopped in Adare for lunch, though we didn’t end up walking around too much. I would have like to see Desmond Castle, which we passed on the way in, but tours weren’t running yet. We ate at the Good Room Cafe- tasty! It was a cute little place with an interesting menu. Then it was on to Dingle. We decided to drive by Inch Beach and stopped there for a bit to walk around. Our home for the next two nights was Coastline B&B. Vivienne was very welcoming, and this was probably my favorite lodging of the trip. We had a large room with a patio, bay view, and the best shower I’ve had in a while. Better than my own!
We took a walk around the harbor and into town where I had some Bailey’s ice cream from Murphy’s, which also had such enticing flavors as sea salt and brown bread. Vivienne had given us a couple spots for music that night, so we decided to relax in the room for a while, then head out for a late dinner before finding a pub. Not the best idea, as most food places were either closed, or nicer/more expensive than we wanted. We ended up getting some take out from a diner just before they closed. We stopped by O’Flaherty’s, which I’d heard was one of the best places for traditional music. I have to say I was underwhelmed, though. The two musicians/singers were talented, but I think things were a bit more subdued than I’d been hoping for.
Apr 12th, 2012, 05:51 PM
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Day 4
If I had to envision the ideal Ireland in my mind- this day would be it. Start to finish, it was our best day, in my opinion. Slea Head Drive was the reason I had chosen Dingle as a destination, and it did not disappoint. We were a bit apprehensive about the driving, not knowing what to expect, but not one problem with that. Historic stops along the way included Dunbeg Fort, Beehive huts, Gallarus Oratory, and Kilmalkedar Church. We’re both interested in ruins and archaeological sites, so we enjoyed wandering around all of these. Again, there were not too many others about, and, often, we had a place nearly to ourselves. We also stopped at Louis Mulcahy pottery under the advice from our B&B host Vivienne. I purchased a vase, but what a hard decision! Lots of beautiful items to choose from, and a good range of sizes/prices also, which was nice. We stopped in the café there as well.
It’s easy enough to describe those things, but I’m not sure I have the words to describe the scenery that is Slea Head. If any place can be called breathtaking, it’s this place. I look at pictures that I took, and they don’t even look real to me, as if there’s no way those sights exist- certainly not with just my non-professional point-and-shoot camera! And, yet, there we were. I’d say it was the contrast in colors that grabbed me- blue sky, bluer water, and that rich green of Ireland. We stopped many times for scenic views, and took a good long stop at Slea Head itself to walk up the hills some with views of the Blasket Islands. I truly hope I can make it back to the peninsula again someday.
And, then… we tackled Conor pass. No regrets, right? Well, the views were probably worth it. I don’t have enough adjectives to keep describing scenic views, but you get the idea! We started the drive from Dingle, and upon reaching the overlook, were wondering what all the fuss was about. The initial plan was to just turn around from there, but I wanted to find the waterfall and lake I’d read about, so onward we go. Yikes! Now I know what the fuss is about. I kept reading that the ‘hard part’ is only one section of road, don’t worry, just do it, etc. Well, sure, only one section, but it was one long section in our opinion! At one point we literally got trapped against the rock ledge facing another car and couldn’t back up. So, that kind, white haired, Irish gentleman reversed himself a considerable way back down so we could get by. Have I mentioned how nice they are there? Turns out that waterfall was a good place to catch our breath.
After some yummy seafood chowder at Murphy’s, we made it to O’Sullivan’s Court House Pub for music that night- this was our best pub experience by far, and why I consider the day near ideal as a whole. Great craic to be found.
If I had to envision the ideal Ireland in my mind- this day would be it. Start to finish, it was our best day, in my opinion. Slea Head Drive was the reason I had chosen Dingle as a destination, and it did not disappoint. We were a bit apprehensive about the driving, not knowing what to expect, but not one problem with that. Historic stops along the way included Dunbeg Fort, Beehive huts, Gallarus Oratory, and Kilmalkedar Church. We’re both interested in ruins and archaeological sites, so we enjoyed wandering around all of these. Again, there were not too many others about, and, often, we had a place nearly to ourselves. We also stopped at Louis Mulcahy pottery under the advice from our B&B host Vivienne. I purchased a vase, but what a hard decision! Lots of beautiful items to choose from, and a good range of sizes/prices also, which was nice. We stopped in the café there as well.
It’s easy enough to describe those things, but I’m not sure I have the words to describe the scenery that is Slea Head. If any place can be called breathtaking, it’s this place. I look at pictures that I took, and they don’t even look real to me, as if there’s no way those sights exist- certainly not with just my non-professional point-and-shoot camera! And, yet, there we were. I’d say it was the contrast in colors that grabbed me- blue sky, bluer water, and that rich green of Ireland. We stopped many times for scenic views, and took a good long stop at Slea Head itself to walk up the hills some with views of the Blasket Islands. I truly hope I can make it back to the peninsula again someday.
And, then… we tackled Conor pass. No regrets, right? Well, the views were probably worth it. I don’t have enough adjectives to keep describing scenic views, but you get the idea! We started the drive from Dingle, and upon reaching the overlook, were wondering what all the fuss was about. The initial plan was to just turn around from there, but I wanted to find the waterfall and lake I’d read about, so onward we go. Yikes! Now I know what the fuss is about. I kept reading that the ‘hard part’ is only one section of road, don’t worry, just do it, etc. Well, sure, only one section, but it was one long section in our opinion! At one point we literally got trapped against the rock ledge facing another car and couldn’t back up. So, that kind, white haired, Irish gentleman reversed himself a considerable way back down so we could get by. Have I mentioned how nice they are there? Turns out that waterfall was a good place to catch our breath.
After some yummy seafood chowder at Murphy’s, we made it to O’Sullivan’s Court House Pub for music that night- this was our best pub experience by far, and why I consider the day near ideal as a whole. Great craic to be found.
Apr 12th, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Day 5
I had my first Full Irish breakfast this morning, complete with the pudding. I don’t know what the fuss is about that either- tasted good to me! I never thought I’d be too hot on this trip, but today got me there. And got me some sunburn as well! We drove to Killarney, stopping first at Muckross House. We chose a tour a couple hours off and went walking to Torc Waterfall and hiked a bit up the trail past the fall. I wish we had had more time for Killarney National Park- just gorgeous there with the lakes and mountains and forest. I’m a big National Park fan in the US as well, and probably could spend days here just finding different hikes. This was a good taste, though.
I enjoyed the tour of Muckross House- our tour guide was very informative and personable. How nice to have had such views of the lake/mountains from the house! Next, we headed over to Muckross Abbey- another fun exploration site. The history is so meaningful, but I also really felt the desire to go back to childhood and play hide and seek in many of these places. Finally, we drove to Ladies View. Same impressions, different location- lovely!
Our home for the next three nights- Earls Court House. Earls had the best breakfasts for me. I couldn’t get enough of their porridge, and loved how they prepared their smoked salmon and eggs. A bit disappointed with the room, just because I had booked a balcony room with mountain views, but we were only on the first floor. So, we could see some bits of mountain beyond the trees, but not what I had envisioned! Not too much to complain about though- still a very nice accommodation.
Had some delicious Shepherd’s Pie for dinner- unfortunately didn’t make note of the restaurant, but it was the best I’ve had. We ended up at Sheehan’s Pub for music- a good time, but the population was heavily weighted in the upper age range that night!
I had my first Full Irish breakfast this morning, complete with the pudding. I don’t know what the fuss is about that either- tasted good to me! I never thought I’d be too hot on this trip, but today got me there. And got me some sunburn as well! We drove to Killarney, stopping first at Muckross House. We chose a tour a couple hours off and went walking to Torc Waterfall and hiked a bit up the trail past the fall. I wish we had had more time for Killarney National Park- just gorgeous there with the lakes and mountains and forest. I’m a big National Park fan in the US as well, and probably could spend days here just finding different hikes. This was a good taste, though.
I enjoyed the tour of Muckross House- our tour guide was very informative and personable. How nice to have had such views of the lake/mountains from the house! Next, we headed over to Muckross Abbey- another fun exploration site. The history is so meaningful, but I also really felt the desire to go back to childhood and play hide and seek in many of these places. Finally, we drove to Ladies View. Same impressions, different location- lovely!
Our home for the next three nights- Earls Court House. Earls had the best breakfasts for me. I couldn’t get enough of their porridge, and loved how they prepared their smoked salmon and eggs. A bit disappointed with the room, just because I had booked a balcony room with mountain views, but we were only on the first floor. So, we could see some bits of mountain beyond the trees, but not what I had envisioned! Not too much to complain about though- still a very nice accommodation.
Had some delicious Shepherd’s Pie for dinner- unfortunately didn’t make note of the restaurant, but it was the best I’ve had. We ended up at Sheehan’s Pub for music- a good time, but the population was heavily weighted in the upper age range that night!
Apr 12th, 2012, 05:54 PM
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Day 6
Today comes in as a close second just behind Slea Head as my favorite trip. Temperatures were supposed to return to low/mid 50’s (F) the next day, when they had been reaching well into the 60’s, so we decided this was the perfect day for the Gap of Dunloe tour. After taking the tour bus to Kate Kearney’s, which wasn’t open, we opted for the horse and trap through the Gap with two others. Scooby was a good sport, but the poor horse really seemed to struggle through parts, even though we walked the hardest bits. Our driver was nice, but she didn’t have much to say beyond telling which lake we were seeing, or what part of the valley we were in. Maybe I expected too much. In any case, we enjoyed the trip through, and it was great sites, as usual. Really loved all the sheep happily perched up on the mountains and rocks.
Following a simple lunch at Brandon’s Cottage, we got on our boat for the Lake’s ride. I really enjoyed this as well, and was glad it wasn’t much colder or that portion would have been much less comfortable! As much as I love mountains, it was nice to be out on the water as well- more scenic pictures to add to the collection.
After the boat ride, we opted to pass on the bus return, and instead took a tour of Ross Castle. Another very informative guide, and another enjoyable stop. I think after this all the ‘stone things’ started to run together in my mind, though. We were seeing a lot! The walk back to Killarney was much more pleasant than I thought- I hadn’t realized most of it was through walking trails and a portion next to a stream as well.
Tonight was a much desired night off- we picked up take out pizza, and headed back to the room to relax and do laundry. Overpriced laundry to be sure, but it was nice having the facilities in the hotel.
Today comes in as a close second just behind Slea Head as my favorite trip. Temperatures were supposed to return to low/mid 50’s (F) the next day, when they had been reaching well into the 60’s, so we decided this was the perfect day for the Gap of Dunloe tour. After taking the tour bus to Kate Kearney’s, which wasn’t open, we opted for the horse and trap through the Gap with two others. Scooby was a good sport, but the poor horse really seemed to struggle through parts, even though we walked the hardest bits. Our driver was nice, but she didn’t have much to say beyond telling which lake we were seeing, or what part of the valley we were in. Maybe I expected too much. In any case, we enjoyed the trip through, and it was great sites, as usual. Really loved all the sheep happily perched up on the mountains and rocks.
Following a simple lunch at Brandon’s Cottage, we got on our boat for the Lake’s ride. I really enjoyed this as well, and was glad it wasn’t much colder or that portion would have been much less comfortable! As much as I love mountains, it was nice to be out on the water as well- more scenic pictures to add to the collection.
After the boat ride, we opted to pass on the bus return, and instead took a tour of Ross Castle. Another very informative guide, and another enjoyable stop. I think after this all the ‘stone things’ started to run together in my mind, though. We were seeing a lot! The walk back to Killarney was much more pleasant than I thought- I hadn’t realized most of it was through walking trails and a portion next to a stream as well.
Tonight was a much desired night off- we picked up take out pizza, and headed back to the room to relax and do laundry. Overpriced laundry to be sure, but it was nice having the facilities in the hotel.
Apr 14th, 2012, 05:13 PM
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I haven't yet put together summaries for the rest of our trip, but if anyone is interested, here's the link for my photo album. Be warned though- 800 pictures!
http://mel.kodakgallery.com/
http://mel.kodakgallery.com/
Apr 14th, 2012, 07:28 PM
#13
OMG----800 photos and how I loved every one of them. I think we took a lot of photos also, but maybe 800 is a bit more. We so loved the west coast of Ireland that we returned to do the middle, north to south, within 8 months time.
To us, the middle looked much like Wisconsin, where we are from, but the highlights were our stay nearby Carrick-on-shannon at
http://loughkeyhouse.com/index.html
and later on dinner in Middleton, near Cobh. One of our best is http://www.farmgate.ie/midhome.htmthe country.
It was hard to top the Dingle Penisula---our favorite.
Thank you for taking us on a return journey and we loved all the details.
This is what Fodors is all about---sharing those details that we can relive or make notes for our next trip.
To us, the middle looked much like Wisconsin, where we are from, but the highlights were our stay nearby Carrick-on-shannon at
http://loughkeyhouse.com/index.html
and later on dinner in Middleton, near Cobh. One of our best is http://www.farmgate.ie/midhome.htmthe country.
It was hard to top the Dingle Penisula---our favorite.
Thank you for taking us on a return journey and we loved all the details.
This is what Fodors is all about---sharing those details that we can relive or make notes for our next trip.
Apr 14th, 2012, 07:34 PM
#14
http://www.farmgate.ie/midleton/midhome.htm
Here's a better site for Farmgate restaurant if you are ever in that area.
Here's a better site for Farmgate restaurant if you are ever in that area.
Apr 15th, 2012, 05:39 AM
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Megan, I enjoyed seeing your photos. My very favorites were the ones where you met the cows on the narrow road and it looked as if they were going to go straight up over the car roof and continue on their way. Thanks for sharing!
Apr 15th, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Thanks for the links TPAYT. I think if/when I make it back to Ireland I'd like to stay near Dublin to really explore the city and add in some day trips from there, perhaps to Belfast and north/east locations.
irishface- read on for details on those cows- a favorite moment of ours.
Day 7
Ring of Kerry today. For those wondering, it took us 8-9hrs to drive, with some stops and dinner. I certainly don’t regret doing it, but admittedly, I found myself a bit underwhelmed by ROK. Maybe if we had driven it before seeing Slea Head Drive I would have a different opinion, but I was spoiled. The weather, while still nice, was also a bit colder and less sunny, so that may have played a role in comparison. We also didn’t stop in too many of the towns along the way. However, we still got some great scenic views and history stops, and our favorite livestock moment by far!
Besides the usual pull overs for scenic views, stops that day were in Cahersiveen for a walk around and to drive to Ballycarberry Castle and Cahergall Stone Fort, ‘Kerry’s Most Spectacular Cliffs’ near Portmagee, and the Staigue Fort in Castlecove. About the pull offs- again, maybe I’m too biased toward Slea Head, but there didn’t seem to be as many pull over opportunities on the ROK, aside from a few of the parking lot type scenic overlooks. At first I was often frustrated that there was great scenery going by, but we couldn’t stop and I couldn’t get a ‘drive by’ photograph due to the walls/hedges along the road. That’s just a minor complaint though- it did force me to just enjoy the drive and hope memory serves me well!
We didn’t visit the smaller ring fort near Cahergall Fort, but Cahergall was quite impressive. We had it to ourselves, and you’re allowed to climb up and around the walls, which is a win for me, of course. I think I like the name Kerry’s Most Spectacular Cliffs more than the cliffs themselves- good advertising! We each had to pay to park in a small lot before walking up the hill. Cliffs were a good view and a nice opportunity to walk around. Staigue Fort was worth the stop for more than one reason. One- another great example of that architecture, though no climbing permitted, and a lovely location. Two- the highlight of our day. All the scenery and ruins couldn’t match up to our cow encounter
On the way to the fort we came upon a cow near the road. She was startled by the car and went back closer to the gate, but we made note of the location so we could be on the look out driving back. Good thing! As we slow down going around a bend, we’re forced to just stop there because half the herd was currently trotting down the road, with our friend from earlier in the lead. The other half were still in the field, but were following along and quite upset with events. Fun times for us though! After they finally made their way past us, we continued on, passing a very banged up gate, and made our final stop in Kenmare. Most shops were closed by then, and we were tired, so we didn’t walk around too much. We found some dinner at O’Connor’s (Guinness stew, yum) and made our way home. We tried the Danny Mann pub that night- not impressed with the singer there, but delicious irish whisky and brown bread ice cream in a wafer bowl.
irishface- read on for details on those cows- a favorite moment of ours.
Day 7
Ring of Kerry today. For those wondering, it took us 8-9hrs to drive, with some stops and dinner. I certainly don’t regret doing it, but admittedly, I found myself a bit underwhelmed by ROK. Maybe if we had driven it before seeing Slea Head Drive I would have a different opinion, but I was spoiled. The weather, while still nice, was also a bit colder and less sunny, so that may have played a role in comparison. We also didn’t stop in too many of the towns along the way. However, we still got some great scenic views and history stops, and our favorite livestock moment by far!
Besides the usual pull overs for scenic views, stops that day were in Cahersiveen for a walk around and to drive to Ballycarberry Castle and Cahergall Stone Fort, ‘Kerry’s Most Spectacular Cliffs’ near Portmagee, and the Staigue Fort in Castlecove. About the pull offs- again, maybe I’m too biased toward Slea Head, but there didn’t seem to be as many pull over opportunities on the ROK, aside from a few of the parking lot type scenic overlooks. At first I was often frustrated that there was great scenery going by, but we couldn’t stop and I couldn’t get a ‘drive by’ photograph due to the walls/hedges along the road. That’s just a minor complaint though- it did force me to just enjoy the drive and hope memory serves me well!
We didn’t visit the smaller ring fort near Cahergall Fort, but Cahergall was quite impressive. We had it to ourselves, and you’re allowed to climb up and around the walls, which is a win for me, of course. I think I like the name Kerry’s Most Spectacular Cliffs more than the cliffs themselves- good advertising! We each had to pay to park in a small lot before walking up the hill. Cliffs were a good view and a nice opportunity to walk around. Staigue Fort was worth the stop for more than one reason. One- another great example of that architecture, though no climbing permitted, and a lovely location. Two- the highlight of our day. All the scenery and ruins couldn’t match up to our cow encounter
On the way to the fort we came upon a cow near the road. She was startled by the car and went back closer to the gate, but we made note of the location so we could be on the look out driving back. Good thing! As we slow down going around a bend, we’re forced to just stop there because half the herd was currently trotting down the road, with our friend from earlier in the lead. The other half were still in the field, but were following along and quite upset with events. Fun times for us though! After they finally made their way past us, we continued on, passing a very banged up gate, and made our final stop in Kenmare. Most shops were closed by then, and we were tired, so we didn’t walk around too much. We found some dinner at O’Connor’s (Guinness stew, yum) and made our way home. We tried the Danny Mann pub that night- not impressed with the singer there, but delicious irish whisky and brown bread ice cream in a wafer bowl.
Apr 15th, 2012, 05:50 PM
#18
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No climbing now at Staigue Fort? Bummer! We climbed all over it in '93 when we "did the Ring." Perhaps we weren't supposed to? Perhaps a warrant for our arrest should we show our faces on the Ring again? Not that my face hasn't changed a lot in 19 years!
Apr 21st, 2012, 09:59 AM
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Megan; We stayed at Earl's Court in September 2009 and October 2010. We had a baloney room on the second floor and loved it; views were mostly of trees but the room was very nice and comfortable. The porridge on the breakfast buffet was my first experience with porridge and I feel in love. I have since ordered some on line twice. Glad you liked Muckross House and Ross Castle, two of my favorites also.
Yes Connor Pass is nerve racking in one section; we too got VERY up close and personal with the rock wall.
Glad you had such a wonderful time. We can't wait to go back again!
Yes Connor Pass is nerve racking in one section; we too got VERY up close and personal with the rock wall.
Glad you had such a wonderful time. We can't wait to go back again!
