Ireland's Dingle Peninsula
Aug 14th, 2006, 08:25 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ireland's Dingle Peninsula
Ireland's rugged rocky Dingle Peninsula, a land of stark beauty surrounded by sheer cliffs that tumble into an oft tempest-like Atlantic, is an awesomely scenic and intriguing place. Ireland's westernmost spit of land is far different from anything many of us have ever seen; and best of all, this very remote area, thought becoming popular, is still rather off the beaten path.
The Dingle is not only magnificent looking, but is also one of the few remaining bastions where Ireland's ancient tongue, Gaelic, is still spoken as a daily language. Films like Ryan's Daughter and Far and Away were filmed in part on the Dingle Peninsula and Irish travel brochures often feature photos of the area.
The Dingle Peninsula is all the more scintillating in that it has one of Ireland's greatest clutter of antiquities, the foremost of which are hundreds of clochans, beehive huts built between the sixth and tenth centuries, along with many Ogham stones (inscribed in the old Irish alphabet), early-Christian crosses and Iron Age forts.
Though the area is one of Europe's poorest, the residents are amongst some of Europe's most friendly. As in Ireland in general, perhaps the Irish warmth is perhaps best seen in the many pubs, where visitors are as warmly received as is the dark stout, the traditional pub drink for locals.
Curls of peat smoke emitting from chimneys give the area an even more unique atmosphere.
TBC (Taken from an article i wrote several years ago - updates and corrections and comments appreciated!)
Note - the original text had the Dingle as Continental Europe's most western spit of land but i changed that to Ireland's after thinking that Portugal may stick out farther towards the New World?? Have to check on that.
Stellarossa - whadda you think?
The Dingle is not only magnificent looking, but is also one of the few remaining bastions where Ireland's ancient tongue, Gaelic, is still spoken as a daily language. Films like Ryan's Daughter and Far and Away were filmed in part on the Dingle Peninsula and Irish travel brochures often feature photos of the area.
The Dingle Peninsula is all the more scintillating in that it has one of Ireland's greatest clutter of antiquities, the foremost of which are hundreds of clochans, beehive huts built between the sixth and tenth centuries, along with many Ogham stones (inscribed in the old Irish alphabet), early-Christian crosses and Iron Age forts.
Though the area is one of Europe's poorest, the residents are amongst some of Europe's most friendly. As in Ireland in general, perhaps the Irish warmth is perhaps best seen in the many pubs, where visitors are as warmly received as is the dark stout, the traditional pub drink for locals.
Curls of peat smoke emitting from chimneys give the area an even more unique atmosphere.
TBC (Taken from an article i wrote several years ago - updates and corrections and comments appreciated!)
Note - the original text had the Dingle as Continental Europe's most western spit of land but i changed that to Ireland's after thinking that Portugal may stick out farther towards the New World?? Have to check on that.
Stellarossa - whadda you think?
Aug 15th, 2006, 07:41 AM
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE DINGLE PENINSULA
The Dingle Peninsula is one of Europe's most economically backward areas but it wasn't always so. Until the 1800s, with fishing, farming and its ports thriving, the area was relatively well off and there were many more residents here than there are now. The economy began to collapse in the 1800s, when one of the legendary Irish potato famines caused the starvation of many and forced droves of others to emigrate, launching a process of virtual total depopulation of the peninsula west of Dingle and Tralee towns. The English colonial powers did little to stem this tragedy that effected not only this area but large swathes of Eire. The area slumbered along as a barren backwater until fairly recently until tourism began to breath live back into the area, which now survives largely on tourists and hefty subsidies it garners from the European Union.
TBC - NEXT DINGLE TOWN & FUNGI THE DOLPHIN
The Dingle Peninsula is one of Europe's most economically backward areas but it wasn't always so. Until the 1800s, with fishing, farming and its ports thriving, the area was relatively well off and there were many more residents here than there are now. The economy began to collapse in the 1800s, when one of the legendary Irish potato famines caused the starvation of many and forced droves of others to emigrate, launching a process of virtual total depopulation of the peninsula west of Dingle and Tralee towns. The English colonial powers did little to stem this tragedy that effected not only this area but large swathes of Eire. The area slumbered along as a barren backwater until fairly recently until tourism began to breath live back into the area, which now survives largely on tourists and hefty subsidies it garners from the European Union.
TBC - NEXT DINGLE TOWN & FUNGI THE DOLPHIN
Aug 16th, 2006, 07:02 AM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DINGLE TOWN & FUNGI THE FRIENDLY DOLPHIN
Dingle (pop 1,250) is unique - though the town revolves around tourism these days, Dingle is not at all ruined by it, but rather seems to be enhanced by it. In fact without tourism Dingle may have suffered the same fate as the whole peninsula, losing population because of few jobs - indeed tourism probably has proved to be a kind of CPR for a region that was on life support.
As everyone going by road to the western part of the peninsula inevitably passes through it, the town makes a great base for the peninsula.
Though an ancient port due to its sheltered harbor enclosed on most sides by land, Dingle has few buildings dating from before the 1800s. But it also has nearly no modern structures, making it a rather charming old-looking Irish sea town whose facades are livened up by the bright hues they sport. The pall of peat smoke the curls from chimneys and the hard salty sailor type locals add the town's one-of-a-kind character.
Dingle is made all the more inviting by its parade of homey B&Bs, cafes, restaurants, and, at last count, some 52 pubs(!). The pubs are especially delightful at night, when many offer songfests accompanied by folk intstruments, such as whistles, fiddles, flutes and drums playing traditional Irish music. O'Flaherty's, on Bridge Street, is perhaps the most famous of these 'singing pubs'.
TBC- Next Dingle Town Sights, Including the Playful Dolphin.
Dingle (pop 1,250) is unique - though the town revolves around tourism these days, Dingle is not at all ruined by it, but rather seems to be enhanced by it. In fact without tourism Dingle may have suffered the same fate as the whole peninsula, losing population because of few jobs - indeed tourism probably has proved to be a kind of CPR for a region that was on life support.
As everyone going by road to the western part of the peninsula inevitably passes through it, the town makes a great base for the peninsula.
Though an ancient port due to its sheltered harbor enclosed on most sides by land, Dingle has few buildings dating from before the 1800s. But it also has nearly no modern structures, making it a rather charming old-looking Irish sea town whose facades are livened up by the bright hues they sport. The pall of peat smoke the curls from chimneys and the hard salty sailor type locals add the town's one-of-a-kind character.
Dingle is made all the more inviting by its parade of homey B&Bs, cafes, restaurants, and, at last count, some 52 pubs(!). The pubs are especially delightful at night, when many offer songfests accompanied by folk intstruments, such as whistles, fiddles, flutes and drums playing traditional Irish music. O'Flaherty's, on Bridge Street, is perhaps the most famous of these 'singing pubs'.
TBC- Next Dingle Town Sights, Including the Playful Dolphin.
Aug 17th, 2006, 06:55 AM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks LC!
Dingle - just love the sound of that name!
DINGLE TOWN CONTINUED
Dingle's few tourist sights include the red-sandstone St Mary's Church, dating from the 1860s; the ten-foot-long Holy Stone, whose inscriptions may well be prehistoric; the Presentation Convent Chapel, known for its stained-glass windows from the 1920s; and the Craft Village, where dozens of artisans fabricate and sell traditional Irish crafts. The uarter-mile-long Pier makes a nice stroll, especially when Dingle's still vibrant fishing fleet discharges the daily catch.
FUNGI THE DOLPHIN
Dingle's most popular sight, however, is a temporary one: Fungi the Dolphin, who swam into the harbor in 1983 with his mom, who soon died. Fungi hung around, and a cottage industry has developed around him with boats taking visitors out into the harbor to cavort with and, on some excursions that provide wet suits, the even swim with the affable dolphin, who also loves to jump out of the water for visitors, making him the Irish version of Sea World. (Supposed the boatmen toss the appropriate fish treat each time he does this!)
Dingle's tourist office dispenses a town map and runs a room-finding service though this is rarely needed as the town has a cavalcade of cozy B&Bs. Dingle also has several of those rather Bohemian private hostels that attract an all-ages crowd. Finding an upscale hotel is harder as there are just a few of these.
NEXT - THE DINGLE PENINSULA ROAD LOOP
One of the most dramatically scenic drives in Europe!
Dingle - just love the sound of that name!
DINGLE TOWN CONTINUED
Dingle's few tourist sights include the red-sandstone St Mary's Church, dating from the 1860s; the ten-foot-long Holy Stone, whose inscriptions may well be prehistoric; the Presentation Convent Chapel, known for its stained-glass windows from the 1920s; and the Craft Village, where dozens of artisans fabricate and sell traditional Irish crafts. The uarter-mile-long Pier makes a nice stroll, especially when Dingle's still vibrant fishing fleet discharges the daily catch.
FUNGI THE DOLPHIN
Dingle's most popular sight, however, is a temporary one: Fungi the Dolphin, who swam into the harbor in 1983 with his mom, who soon died. Fungi hung around, and a cottage industry has developed around him with boats taking visitors out into the harbor to cavort with and, on some excursions that provide wet suits, the even swim with the affable dolphin, who also loves to jump out of the water for visitors, making him the Irish version of Sea World. (Supposed the boatmen toss the appropriate fish treat each time he does this!)
Dingle's tourist office dispenses a town map and runs a room-finding service though this is rarely needed as the town has a cavalcade of cozy B&Bs. Dingle also has several of those rather Bohemian private hostels that attract an all-ages crowd. Finding an upscale hotel is harder as there are just a few of these.
NEXT - THE DINGLE PENINSULA ROAD LOOP
One of the most dramatically scenic drives in Europe!
Aug 18th, 2006, 06:50 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stella: Thanks for your nice comment, or kind of nice comment! About the pubs - though i haven't been to Dingle since i wrote this article several years ago i think in Irish tourist centres and places like Dublin, Cork, etc., you have these music pubs that showcase traditional Celtic or Irish music - maybe mainly for tourists but still fun. I haven't checked out Dingle pubs recently to know if any still offer these as they did when i were there. But you may be right, i don't know. Best wishes!
Aug 18th, 2006, 07:37 AM
#8
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Having returned from two weeks in Ireland, I have to say my favorite region was the Dingle Peninsula. In regards to the pubs, they are still quite lively with traditional music. We visited 3 different pubs over 2 nights and enjoyed local music in all 3 locations. Though they were not spontaneous gatherings, I believe they were locals performing and happy to be playing whether it be for tourists or Dinglites. We saw a much wider variety of instruments then we found in Dublin and better quality. I highly recommend a night or two in the Dingle pubs.
Diane
Diane
Aug 22nd, 2006, 09:04 AM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
THE DINGLE LOOP BY ROAD
Be sure to take the 13-mile-long road from Dingle to the tip of the peninsula by car, bike, bus or foot as this is one of Europe's most very spectacular drives. Though the whole loop can easily be done as a day trip from Dingle, consider staying in one of the few tiny hamlets en route, such as Dunquin, which is about as remote as Europe gets - and is especially awesome at night when the near total darkness lets you see more stars then you ever imagined (on the rare clear night, alas).
Leave Dingle for Ventry, a Gaelic-speaking port town with a sheltered harbor. Only about 4 miles from Dingle, if Ventry looks weather-beaten, it's due to the fact that the town takes the brunt of the many gales that periodically blow in off the Atlantic and slam the town and area.
After Ventry are the remains of the Dunbeg Fort, perched on the edge of a precipice hundreds of feet above the sea. This Iron Age promonotory fort once sported stone ramparts 25 feet high and 15 feet thick and had a subterranean means of escape. The Ventry to Slea Head road is a perilous-looking cliffhanger with super panoramas of the waves violently crashing into the rocks far below. (Drivers, however, should stop to admire this sight as at all times you must keep your eyes on the all too narrow road!) This area, with its amazing wave action and picturesque rocks was used as a set for filming parts of Ryan's Daughter.
Between Ventry and Slea Head are an amazing medley of 400 beehive huts and 100 inscribed stones and crosses. The group of huts at Fahan are amongst the best preserved. Exactly who built the tiny mortarless drystone huts and when are questions that are still being asked today. The most romantic version attributes them to contemplative monks, who used them for communing with God, but an other, more pedestrian explanation, says that they were mainly used for shelter by shepherds, with some being erected for this purpose only about 100 years ago. Most of the huts, however, probably date from the sixth to tenth centuries; and though vandals in recent times have unfortunatley damaged some, many are well preserved.
TBC - NEXT SLEA HEAD, DUNMORE HEAD AND DUNQUIN
Be sure to take the 13-mile-long road from Dingle to the tip of the peninsula by car, bike, bus or foot as this is one of Europe's most very spectacular drives. Though the whole loop can easily be done as a day trip from Dingle, consider staying in one of the few tiny hamlets en route, such as Dunquin, which is about as remote as Europe gets - and is especially awesome at night when the near total darkness lets you see more stars then you ever imagined (on the rare clear night, alas).
Leave Dingle for Ventry, a Gaelic-speaking port town with a sheltered harbor. Only about 4 miles from Dingle, if Ventry looks weather-beaten, it's due to the fact that the town takes the brunt of the many gales that periodically blow in off the Atlantic and slam the town and area.
After Ventry are the remains of the Dunbeg Fort, perched on the edge of a precipice hundreds of feet above the sea. This Iron Age promonotory fort once sported stone ramparts 25 feet high and 15 feet thick and had a subterranean means of escape. The Ventry to Slea Head road is a perilous-looking cliffhanger with super panoramas of the waves violently crashing into the rocks far below. (Drivers, however, should stop to admire this sight as at all times you must keep your eyes on the all too narrow road!) This area, with its amazing wave action and picturesque rocks was used as a set for filming parts of Ryan's Daughter.
Between Ventry and Slea Head are an amazing medley of 400 beehive huts and 100 inscribed stones and crosses. The group of huts at Fahan are amongst the best preserved. Exactly who built the tiny mortarless drystone huts and when are questions that are still being asked today. The most romantic version attributes them to contemplative monks, who used them for communing with God, but an other, more pedestrian explanation, says that they were mainly used for shelter by shepherds, with some being erected for this purpose only about 100 years ago. Most of the huts, however, probably date from the sixth to tenth centuries; and though vandals in recent times have unfortunatley damaged some, many are well preserved.
TBC - NEXT SLEA HEAD, DUNMORE HEAD AND DUNQUIN
Aug 23rd, 2006, 09:18 AM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SLEA HEAD, DUNMORE HEAD & DUNQUIN
Moving on from the Fahan huts area we come next to SLEA HEAD, about 10 miles from Dingle Town and known for its smashing view over the IVERAGH PENINUSLA to the south and the BLASKET ISLANDS to the west. The Slea Head area has fields laced by imposing stone walls that were created more as a place to pile up stones removed from the rocky soil than to act as walls.
DUNMORE HEAD is a protrusion into the Atlantic that is the westernmost tip of Eire's mainland. On its summit are the remains of massive ramparts that once defended it and an Ogham stone with an unusually long inscription. In 1588, two ships of the Spanish Armada sunk just offshore here during a tempest; these and many other Spanish ships that sank in storms here often are given as a reason that some Dingle natives have skins a bit darker than most Irish.
DUNQUIN is a tiny hamlet that makes a good place to spend the night in its few B&Bs, including one above Kruger's Pub or at the cozy Dunquin (Dun Chaoin) HI Youth Hostel (open May-Sep). From the village be sure to trek down a path to the sea to watch the waves crashing into a rocky cove. In the evening, there are few lights here to brighten the night; and if the skies are clear - a big if unfortunately - more stars illuminate the dark skies than you ever thought possible. On some nights, Kruger's Pub offers the traditional Irish folk music (that Stellarossa deems hackneyed but others seem to enjoy immensely). "Curraughs", light wood and canvas boats traditionally used by locals may still be seen moored in the tiny port. The DUNQUIN VISITORS CENTRE here has exhibits on the history and geography of the peninsula.
TBC - NEXT THE BLASKET ISLANDS OFF DUNQUIN
Moving on from the Fahan huts area we come next to SLEA HEAD, about 10 miles from Dingle Town and known for its smashing view over the IVERAGH PENINUSLA to the south and the BLASKET ISLANDS to the west. The Slea Head area has fields laced by imposing stone walls that were created more as a place to pile up stones removed from the rocky soil than to act as walls.
DUNMORE HEAD is a protrusion into the Atlantic that is the westernmost tip of Eire's mainland. On its summit are the remains of massive ramparts that once defended it and an Ogham stone with an unusually long inscription. In 1588, two ships of the Spanish Armada sunk just offshore here during a tempest; these and many other Spanish ships that sank in storms here often are given as a reason that some Dingle natives have skins a bit darker than most Irish.
DUNQUIN is a tiny hamlet that makes a good place to spend the night in its few B&Bs, including one above Kruger's Pub or at the cozy Dunquin (Dun Chaoin) HI Youth Hostel (open May-Sep). From the village be sure to trek down a path to the sea to watch the waves crashing into a rocky cove. In the evening, there are few lights here to brighten the night; and if the skies are clear - a big if unfortunately - more stars illuminate the dark skies than you ever thought possible. On some nights, Kruger's Pub offers the traditional Irish folk music (that Stellarossa deems hackneyed but others seem to enjoy immensely). "Curraughs", light wood and canvas boats traditionally used by locals may still be seen moored in the tiny port. The DUNQUIN VISITORS CENTRE here has exhibits on the history and geography of the peninsula.
TBC - NEXT THE BLASKET ISLANDS OFF DUNQUIN
Aug 24th, 2006, 09:20 AM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
THE BLASKET ISLANDS
Even on a day trip from Dingle, you have time to take a boat from Dunquin to the rugged wild Blaskets, a group of seven islands just off the coast. It's better, however, perhaps to stay in Dunquin and make a leisurely day of your island adventure.
The blaskets, at one time called the Next Parish to America, are one of Europe's westernmost and most wind-swept outposts. Once home to many people who seemingly impossibly scratched out a living here by tilling the poor soil or fishing. Life on the islands was always harsh and especially so in the horribly bleak winters, when they are pummeled by many storms that sweep in off the blustery Atlantic. After a long period of depopulation, the economy of the islands totally collapsed in the 1940s, and the few hardy soulds who reamined on Great Blasket, the largest of the islands, finally threw in the towel in 1953 and since then the islands have had no permanent year-round residents. (I wrote and researched this several years ago; perhaps today folks have returned?)
Boats go regularly in the tourist season to Great Blasket, four miles long by 3/4's of a mile wide, and which is now a national historic park. Ten miles of paths crisscross the island, whose north side features cliffs nearly 1.000 feet high. Walkers pass many derelict edifices, some of which are now being restored, and are often spot seals and puffins.
Three well-received books, Twenty Years A-Growing by Maurice O'Sullivan, The Islandman by Tomas O'crohan and Peig,, by Peig Sayers, tell of traditional island life.
Solitutde-lovers can stay on the island either in a B&B, or in a private hostel that is in the cottage that Peig Sayers lived in while writing her book. Boats depart Dunquin about hourly to 5pm May thru September, weather permitting! (If staying on the island have a flexible schedule!) In summer some boats also scoot to the island from Dingle Town, providing a most memorable ride along the rugged coast.
Even on a day trip from Dingle, you have time to take a boat from Dunquin to the rugged wild Blaskets, a group of seven islands just off the coast. It's better, however, perhaps to stay in Dunquin and make a leisurely day of your island adventure.
The blaskets, at one time called the Next Parish to America, are one of Europe's westernmost and most wind-swept outposts. Once home to many people who seemingly impossibly scratched out a living here by tilling the poor soil or fishing. Life on the islands was always harsh and especially so in the horribly bleak winters, when they are pummeled by many storms that sweep in off the blustery Atlantic. After a long period of depopulation, the economy of the islands totally collapsed in the 1940s, and the few hardy soulds who reamined on Great Blasket, the largest of the islands, finally threw in the towel in 1953 and since then the islands have had no permanent year-round residents. (I wrote and researched this several years ago; perhaps today folks have returned?)
Boats go regularly in the tourist season to Great Blasket, four miles long by 3/4's of a mile wide, and which is now a national historic park. Ten miles of paths crisscross the island, whose north side features cliffs nearly 1.000 feet high. Walkers pass many derelict edifices, some of which are now being restored, and are often spot seals and puffins.
Three well-received books, Twenty Years A-Growing by Maurice O'Sullivan, The Islandman by Tomas O'crohan and Peig,, by Peig Sayers, tell of traditional island life.
Solitutde-lovers can stay on the island either in a B&B, or in a private hostel that is in the cottage that Peig Sayers lived in while writing her book. Boats depart Dunquin about hourly to 5pm May thru September, weather permitting! (If staying on the island have a flexible schedule!) In summer some boats also scoot to the island from Dingle Town, providing a most memorable ride along the rugged coast.
