Ireland - more Connemara or Aran Islands?
 

Hi All!

After a ton of tweaking, I've got my itinerary down pat. I added an extra night in Connemara, so I will have 2 full days in the arear.

The first day will be spent checking out Clifden, the Park, taking a boat out on Killary Harbor, etc.. That doesn't really give me much time to explore those places in depth, which is why I gave myself the 2nd full day. However, I have the option of going to Inishmore on that 2nd day, which does appeal to me. Everything about Connemara appeals to me, but how to choose? I would love to hear your thoughts!

Possibly I could do the Sky Drive and more of Clifden as I make my way down to the Burren/Cliffs of Moher area? I've made a reservation at the Berry Lodge in Milltown Malbay to break up the drive to Dingle.

Thanks!

I sound like a broken record on this topic, but if you're going from Clifden to Killary Harbour on the N59, you'll go through Letterfrack. Try to take a side trip up the Renvyle Peninsula (a road to the left right in Letterfrack) as I think it is so well worth it. Also, the Sky Road is right outside Clifden and only takes maybe and hour or so (maybe a bit longer, can't remember), but you could do that anytime you're in Clifden. And you're right--everything about Connemara is wonderful!!

Hi Holldoll

Thanks for the tips; I definitely think I can do the Renvyle drive, and I'm happy to hear that the Sky Drive isn't all that long. I still wish I had more time in Connemara, but 2 full days is better than none at all.

I'm reading and re-reading all these wonderful posts; they've been of great help to me.

Thanks!

Hi Betsy,
Me again. I'd go to Inishmore! There's something about an Irish island... And since you're there in October it won't be crowded and could be magical.

Based on the recommendation (it must have been from you, Holldoll) we definitely drove the Renvyle peninsula - it was beautiful. We stopped for a nice lunch in Letterfrack (it seems like we ate a meal in every town.) Clifden is small - and the sky road is right there - so you won't need much time to see that.

Hi McShane

Thanks for the tip -I was leaning towards Inishmore anyway, but it's nice to have confirmation.

I'm so excited!

Here I am again--with two full days, I'd go north on the N59--see Kylemore Abbey, go to Letterfrack, see the park and Renvyle and on to Leenane where I assume you get the Killary Harbour tour boat (I was always there in the off season so never was able to do that). That will be a very full day, so get a fairly early start. Didn't say when you're going, but after summer, traffic will lessen. Anyway, given time that day you might also try to get to Cleggan (only a few minutes off the N59 quite neat Clifden). The second day you could do the Sky Road and go to the south toward Roundstone and on then your way back to the N59 stop at Ballynahinch for a look around. You'll then have seen the northern part and the southern parts, which are topically quite different,and would make for two nice days in the area to see a good amount of it. It will be a great overview. Another later trip might include the areas closer to Galway, but if you can do Kylemore, the park, Renvyle, Killary and then another day of Sky Road and the Roundstone area, you've got a nice two days there. I've been in the area twice now for a few days, and still want to return yet again!! You will so enjoy the rugged solitude of that area. So different from other parts of Ireland. A true delight. Be sure and post a trip report. Cheers and good fun to you!!

Wow, lots of great tips, Holldoll. I wouldn't be able to do Inishmore then, but I would get a pretty good overview of the area. Tough choice! Fortunately, I do not have to make up my mind today.

This is part of the reason I don't particularly care for tours - the planning is one of the best parts of a vacation. I so enjoy researching my destinations - figuring out where I want to stay, to eat......what I need to cut out or add to my itinerary. It makes the actual trip that much better.

Thanks again!

In a perfect world, more of both!

That said, I loved Kylemore Abbey and just driving through Connemara. But it's Inishmore I dream about. OTOH, I spent the night there in a thatched-roof cottage B&B early one April and the place was deserted. Maybe that's why I loved it so much.

You'll love whichever choice you make, I think.

Happy travels!

I agree with Worktowander. Anything you decide will be great--really! And rest assured that once you've been there, you'll return!! From what Worktowander says, my fourth trip back (third to Connemara) I'll definitely go to Inishmore. But you can't go wrong whatever you decide. And I agree--planning is almost the best part. We stayed at Abbeyglen Castle in Clifden twice and simply love it there. Great food, nice old manor house and good comaraderie! Have a great time. When are you traveling?

Hi Worktowander and Holldoll!

I'm leaving NY at the end of September and will return on October 9. I think autumn is a nice time to travel anywhere, even though the daylight hours will be shorter. Still, I would give up a few hours of daylight to not be surrounded by hordes of tourists.

I could do Inishmore on my last full day and then, as I make my way down to Milltown Malbay (where I will stay one night before heading towards Dingle), I could do some of what I haven't done (say, Sky Drive, Renvyle pen.).

Of course, a lot depends on the weather. I may just have to play it by ear........

Thanks for your help!

Don't worry about the weather. We went last in the second half of November (very short days however) and the other time first week in March--which was wonderful. No tourist whatsoever and lots of sunshine. But you can't predict the weather, although we never got more than a partial day of rain. In March we got a total of two hours all week; in November a couple half days. It's really not a problem. Have a great time--you can't miss!!

Hey Holldoll

I won't worry about the weather; the one time I did have concerns was when I went to Miami a couple of years ago. All I wanted was a nice, relaxing beach vacation and naturally, the week I was there, it rained cats and dogs. Miami is not NY or Chicago, where there is a lot to do regardless of the weather. Miami is all about the sun - that was depressing. I'll prepare for iffy weather, hope for the best and see what happens.

I do have (yet another!) question !

My flight into Shannon (from NY) will arrive either around 6 am or 9:30 am (I'm not sure which flight I want to take). Assuming the later flight, I expect to arrive at Ballynahinch possibly around 1 or 2 pm (at the latest). I will have a driver, so no innocent Irish need worry about me falling asleep at the wheel!

I've been reading about the Clifden to Westport drive through Leenane and Louisburgh, and I think it's definitely something I want to do. It sounds heartbreakingly beautiful and I would love to see that famine marker. In order to have time for this, I may have to do some touring on arrival day - would this be a bad thing?

My first full day is spent as detailed in my initial post, plus Kylemore Abbey. If I want to do the Clifden to Westport drive, I probably would have to do some of the above on my arrival day. Would that be asking to much of myself? The alternative would just be to relax and enjoy the Ballynahinch surroundings on arrival and be well rested for the next day (and this sounds wonderful as well).

Of course, if I don't go to Inishmore on my 2nd full day (due either to weather or because I just couldn't give up exploring more of Connemara), then I wouldn't have to cram anything onto my arrival day.

Thoughts?

Thanks so much!

Good for you staying at Ballynahinch. Drove through there and looks gorgeous. Would like to try it another trip. Anyway that trip to Westport via Leenane and Doo Lough pass area is exactly how you describe it--heartbreakingly beautiful. But takes many hours just one way. Can't imagine doing it the first day. Of course with an Irish driver, maybe. That makes all the difference. We drove so slowly. If you don't go to Inishmore, why not do that the other day you have and then spend a little time in Westport. This board talks about what a great town it is to visit. Unfortunately we just drove through, but apparently it's a good destination. The Doo Lough pass area is so desolate and sad. A good choice of something to do.

We just came back from biking the very areas of your trip, Betsyp. We did not do Inishmore on this trip, and I was very happy we didn't. The last time it ate up so much time we could have better spent elsewhere.

I'm going to go straight to your last question. No, you shouldn't be fitting in anymore driving your first day. You can take a side trip up to Cliffs of Moher on your way up, but that's where I'd draw the line.

We biked from Ballynahinch to Clifden to the Sky Road through Cleggan and then to Letterfrack in no more than five hours. That should give you an idea of timing in itself. Stop at Oliver's in Cleggan for the BEST lunch ever. This is our second time at Oliver's and we haven't found anything on the menu that wasn't spectacularly fresh.

Next day we biked from Kylemore Abbey up to Tully Cross, along Killary fjord to Leenane. Started at Kylemore around 10ish--arrived in Leenane around 12ish. Again, will give you idea of time. We then biked all the way from Leenane to Cong--Ashford Castle and Cong are great but this segment isn't spectacular.

Hi Holldoll and Amelia...

Tough choices, but I suspect I'm going to go with the Lousburgh to Wesport drive; I'd get to see much more of the area plus Westport, which people just seem to love. I will save the Aran Islans for another trip.

Amelia, good for you for biking your way through the Irish countryside. I wish I could do that, but I'm too lazy and not in great shape. I do intend to do some horseback riding, though, and I particularly look forward to doing that on Dingle peninsula. That's my idea of heaven!

Are there any good shops in the area in which to buy hand-knit Aran sweaters? They will come in handy for our bitter NY winters.

You have been such a big help, thanks!!

Betsyp,

I replied to one of your other threads and left this one alone, as you have gotten such great advice already.

I do have to second Amelia's endorsement of Olvier's in tiny little Cleggan--we had an unexpectedly great lunch there (soup of the day, Potato & Leek of course, simple but wonderful; and the mussels "starter" which was actually over 2 dozen extremely tasty mussels in a garlic butter sauce).

Amelia, if you're still listening in, your comment about biking Sky Road made smile. I was trying to keep up my running regimen while in Ireland (I call Guinness and brown bread carbo loading). As I did an out & back run across the hilly upper Sky Road, I could have used your bicycle!

ttt

Hi Beach Dweller - I appreciate all of your help, thanks!

Yum, I will definitely make a point of having lunch at Oliver's. I just love the idea of having meals in these little towns that most tourists would pass right by....so authentic.

Thanks again to all!

One more little tip--if you're going Cleggan to go to Olivers (where I had a couple Irish coffees to bolster up my courage) go to the riding stable there and take a horseback ride on the beach. Hopefully a very nice woman named Sabrina will still be there. But it's right before Oliver's and was fun(once I had the Irish coffees to be brave enough). You can get "beginner" (mine) horses or ones for the better rider. But as long as you're there...it was a neat experience.

Hey Holldoll

Any chance to ride on a beach is something I can't pass up, but I wonder if I would have enough time, given the long drive, the lunch stop and the stop in Westport. Of course, if I leave early enough in the morning, I could probably do it. Some more good stuff to research, thanks!

You do have a lot crammed into each day. But see how it comes out--getting a very early start will help lots. When you return from Westport you will take the main road--not backtrack through Doo Lough--and that will be tons faster. Well, I guess if you stop in Cleggan, which is very close to Clifden (maybe 15 minutes) you can stop at the stable and see what you might arrange. You have to go right past it to get to Olivers. I'm so jealous--now I want to plan another trip to Connemara!!

Have you given up on the Aran Islands? It was, I think, my most favorite spot! I am so glad we took the time! Our families - all ages - loved their pony cart tours to Dun Aengus and the side "roads"- a great experience. The ferry over was crowded, but smooth and comfortable, the dock area touristy, but the island an awesome part of the past!
Oh, we recommend the horseback ride on the beach too - Cleggan has several good stables. We arranged our granddaughter's 13th birthday beach ride thru emails with Michael Lennon at Westport Woods Hotel- it was a grand success despite the rain.
There are just so many great choices in Ireland - each worthwhile.(But the trip as far as Westport IS long and slow.) Just don't overplan, don't try to do everything! Be flexible, and take the time to ENJOY! Have a great time - you won't go wrong, whatever your choices.