Ireland Gurus: Calling for Your Help with Our Second Trip to Ireland (The Northwest)
 

When we visited the Southwest last October, we found all of the advice and comments you gave to be invaluable. Fodors guide was very helpful as well. Now we're going back this August (I know, it's the high season, and I plan to book airfare, etc. shortly). We want to concentrate on the Northwest: Connemara, Mayo, Sligo, Donegal, (Northern Ireland is on the table, but with only 7 nights, I am afraid that may be too much).

I've done a great deal of research through old threads and the Fodors guidebook. Here's what we're thinking; we'd love your opinions.

First 2 Nights: drive from Shannon to the furthest Northern part of our trip: Co. Donegal, Co.Sligo? (Is Northern Ireland too far given our time frame?) My idea is to use up the first jet-lagged day driving North, and then eventually make our way back down to Connemara for an easier drive to Bunratty to spend our last night near the airport.

3rd & 4th Nights: In or near Westport (assuming our first 2 nights were in Co. Donegal or Co. Sligo).

5th & 6th Nights: In or near Clifden

7th Night: Bunratty to be close to the airport for our return flight the next day (we did this last time and were very glad we did; plus we had great pub grub at Kathleen's).

I printed lots of your posts & comments on the various attractions of these areas. I guess our main question is exactly which 3 bases to use, with the only certainty at this point: ending up in the Connemara region. I am intrigued by Northern Ireland (giant's causeway, etc.) but afraid it may stretch our journey out too much. We're nesters; we like to get the feel of a place; not have too much planned except knowing we'll spend a few nights here, a few there. So perhaps it is more realistic to start in Co. Donegal or Co. Sligo.

What say ye, fodorites?

As you haven't booked a flight yet why not fly into Dublin and out of Shannon.

Belfast in Northern Ireland is a 1.5 hour drive from Dublin airport and if you want to go to the north coast add another hour.

Donegal is just over the border form Derry or Strabane in the North. Sligo is just over the border from Fermanagh (lake district and lovely) in the west.

As you have alreay been to the Southwest why not just spend all of your time in NI, Donegal and Sligo travelling in and out of Dublin.

7 days isn't very long, and in the interests of everyones safety is it really advisable to drive that distance when jetlagged?

Shannon to Donegal is about a 4-5 hour drive and after Galway some of the roads are not very good.

Cambe,

you've given me something else to think about; I appreciate that. Flying into Dublin would get me closer to Northern Ireland/Donegal, and I suppose I could then make my way back down the West coast to Connemara.

So how long do you think it is from Dublin to Donegal?

Hi Beach,

Dublin - Donegal?

That depends on whether you are going to South Donegal or North Donegal.

Sorry to be such a pain about this but travelling on country roads and through small Irish towns when you are jetlagged is not going to be easy (my job is health & safey, family and friends are always telling me to leave my job at work but I can't help it)

North Donegal
The main Dublin to Belfast road is excellent, mostly duel carriageway/moterway and bypasses all towns that will take approx 1 - 1.5 hours. From there to Derry the road is good for most of the way and that should take a further hour. From Derry the ferry accross the river to Donegal is quickist. After that the roads are narrow and you will get caught up in traffic (no motorways in Donegal just country roads which adds to it's appeal). I would stay in Derry your first night. Your practically in Donegal at that point and it should take no longer that 2.5 hours with good roads all the way.

South Donegal

This is where the roads are not so good but here goes.
Dublin to Cavan, depending on traffic about 1 hour, Cavan to Enniskillen (about another hour), Eniskillen to Donegal town (1-2 hours but fantastic scenery on little country roads).

If you take this option I would stay in Eniskillen or one of the Fermanagh villages first night. This is the lake district and very beautiful.

Give yourself plenty of time to get back to Dublin from Connemara (at least 2.5 hours)

Hope this helps

Did Westport four years ago. It was Ok but not that exciting. Did Clifden two years ago, much better, short drive to the Park which is lovely. Hint, do not do Inish Bofin on your short schedule. Its a full day and in my opinion not worth a full day on a 7 day trip. A short drive south from Clifden is Roundstone, nice little village on the shore with some nice walking trails around the countryside. They have a summerfest but I don't know the dates. The ride south from there is very nice thru the countryside untill you get around Galway and all those roundabouts. If you do fly out of Shannon the drive from Clifden or Roundstone is a couple of hours but not all day unless you linger along the way. Have fun.

We spent the first three days of our trip last fall at Ballynahinch (near Recess and Clifden). It was a comfortable drive from Shannon with a stop in Galway for lunch. Ballynahinch was wonderful. The food terrific and we rather enjoyed the on-site pub and casual walks on the property. We spent one day exploring Roundstone, Clifden, and Sky Drive was wonderful. We spent the next day driving up to Westport and back, with stops at Kylemore Abbey and Westport House. It made for a great day trip. Connemara was wonderful and we could easily have spent another day or more in the area.

Forgive me if this ends up as a duplicate message. I tried to post earlier, and it got lost in the ether.

Cambe,

I didn't mean to imply that I will be a jet-lagged zombie driver on our first day; just that I would rather do a long drive that first day and then start meandering. I promise I will be just as safe as all of the other American tourists on the road in August. :-)

Here's what I am thinking based on all of your help so far:

The North: 1st two nights in or around Donegal (with time to explore Co. Fermanagh too hopefully)--best town for a base here?

The South: last two nights (except for our last night in Bunratty before flying out at 12:30 p.m.), in Connemara--best town for a base here? Clifden? Ballynahinch (if we can't afford the castle)? Great little out of the way place with a pub nearby?

The Middle: our 3rd & 4th nights; here's where I bog down. Westport in Co. Mayo as a base; Sligo Town as a base; other possibilities?

Thanks all for your help so far.

Budman, Bill, Siobahn, Ann41, Italian Chauffer, et al? Opinions?

OK Beach, lets forget the jet lag and concentrate on your itinerary.

The best place in
Donegal for you is probably Donegal town. From there you can visit Fermanagh , Killybegs, Port Noo and some of the best scenery in the North.

In the south, I would go for Cliften and instead of staying in town why not go to the Renvle , which is just outside Cliften and a lovely hotel.

For the 3 days in between, I would spend an extra day in Donegal and the other in Westport.

Have lovely trip

cambe,

as my young (to me, anyway) students say: you rock!

Thanks so much for your great advice. I really want to work in a visit to Enniskillen, based on your recommendation as well.

If you make it to Enniskillen and happen to need a place to stay, we heartily recommend Abocurragh Farmhouse. The hosts were terrific, and the lovely home is down a lane on a working farm.
http://www.irishfarmholidays.com/ifh...&farm_id=6

Just to piggy back on the jet lag thing, I wouldn't do more than four hours on the first day and I prefer two or less, It depends a bit where you are coming from. If it's the east coast, it's not as bad as the west coast. Dublin to Donegal on the first day would be too much. I would also suggest no further than Enniskillen which is a beautiful area. There are many stories about jet-lagged travelers driving off the roads no matter how safe you plan to be. Driving while exhausted is considered just as unsafe as driving intoxicated and the level of alertness is quite similar. Just think about it. We would really like to read your trip report when (not if) you return. (selfish us!)

Now, here's a new idea. Why not fly to Donegal? Last I checked, Dublin to Donegal is E29.99 on Aer Arann and would save you the jet lag issue and put you right in the middle of some gorgeous scenery. You could rent from the Donegal airport. Make SURE you have a car reservation and you may want to call the day before and confirm. They are a very small airport and won't have a lot of cars just waiting around. With your plans and limited time, this would be a no brainer for me. The drive across the country from Dublin to Donegal will take all day, at least 6 hours to Donegal town. There are risks and it may be, at best, unpleasant.

I agree that leaving out NI THIS TIME, considering what you want to do is a good idea. Make sure to go back though, because it's beautiful.

I think that generally, what you have is a good plan (provided you fly to Donegal). Westport has some good music options and there is a lot to see from there, especially Achill island if the weather is good. Westport itself is a busy little town and the time I was there, it was crowded with construction. I'll be there again in about a month, I'll let you know what I see.

Between (sort of) Donegal and Westport in are some very interesting megalithic sights including the often missed Carrowkeel, on the road between Sligo and Boyle. Another beautiful drive and a wonderful way to get from Westport to Clifden is the road through Louisburgh and down to Leenane. Doo Lough pass is a favorite.

Clifden is nice little town and the full day there could be quite nice. Take some back roads in Connemara, try Slyne Head and Roundstone and perhaps out to the islands just west of Galway. Pick up a Ordinance survey map because all of the road signs there will be in Irish and the Michelin map may leave you confused as you look at the signs.

The more I think about it, don't even consider the drive to Donegal. Fly, no question. You will enjoy your holiday much more, especially the first day. My nephew (to young to rent a car) will be flying to meet us in Donegal in May and I'll let you know how that turns out also.

Bill

Allison & Bill, thanks very much.

We will be flying into Shannon--the times worked out a little better for us (and we have flown into Shannon once before, so we kind of know the lay of the land there). If on time, our plane arrives about 8:30 a.m., so if we drive from Shannon, we should be on the road by 10:30 or 11 a.m. at the latest.

I did the drive from Shannon to Kenmare (although that was only about 2.5 or 3 hours if I recall) with no problem whatsoever--I sleep pretty well on planes. So, if I drive the 275 Km (viamichelin's estimate) from Shannon to Donegal Town, with a generous lunch/rest stop in-between, would I still be scaring you guys to death? It looks like 211 km to Sligo from Shannon, perhaps a nice long lunch stop there?

Alternatively, Bill, I will look into your idea about flying from Shannon to Donegal Town. HOWEVER, if I rent a car at Donegal, is there any problem with dropping it off at Shannon airport?

And, thanks for the wonderful advice about routes, etc.

I am beginning to think 2 nights in Donegal Town, then 2 nights in or near Westport, and 2 nights in or near Clifden.

Thanks again for your help!

Beach, unfortunatly you can't fly from Shannon to Donegal (the flight is from Dublin). Bill has given you good advice. The airport is in the northwest of Donegal and the scenery there is wonderful.

275Km will take you 6 hours (if your lucky).

By the way Cliften and Westport are about 40 miles apart. I would pick one or other to stay in and daytrip to the other.

Although I agree with cambe that you could do day trips from either Clifden or Westport, they are a slow 40 minutes apart and there are different things to see from each. You won't be in either a terribly long time so I think you are fine doing both.

Another thought is why go all the way to Donegal for your first night? Instead, consider 2 nights in Westport, two nights in Donegal and then two nights in Clifden. I think that would greatly reduce the stress and I can see a lot of options that would put you in a position of not doing much back tracking. Westport is as far as I would want to go on a 1st day.

cambe is absolutely right about the lack of flights from Shannon to Donegal.

Hope this helps

Bill

Bill.
Disagree with you on staying in Cliften/Westport, I should have said stay in one and see the lot (perhapes 3 - 4 days in one place)
However, I do agree about going to Donegal on the first night.

Beach, I still think you would do better flying in and out of Dublin

Certainly understand your point and I might think differently with a different itinerary, but with beach dwellers plans, I'd do one on the way up and one on the way back down.

Bill

OK Bill.
Point taken, your right.

Cambe and Bill,

first, you are so kind to stay with me on this. I've gone ahead and thrown in a bit of a monkey-wrench by booking our flight to & from Shannon. But we really wanted to end up with our last several nights in Connemara, and I thougt Shannon was best way to do that (allowing for a beautiful coastal drive from Connemara to Bunratty to stay our last night).

I have been fretting over the map and the problems you both pointed out about getting all the way to Donegal the first day.

Bill, I see your point about perhaps first leg to Westport, then north to Donegal, then back down to Clifden (taking different north/south routes to avoid any real backtracking). This would allow us to cover the areas we initially wanted to cover. Inspired by this, I am also looking at perhaps making it to Sligo for our first night, then the next day driving to Donegal via Enniskillen, for two nights in Donegal. I know this would leave a pretty long drive from Donegal back down to Connemara (Clifden or Westport) for 3 nights, but we could take our time (lots of daylight in August!) and we'd be well-rested.

Another alternative inspired by your comment Cambe--3 or 4 nights in one place?--is just to pick a region, Donegal or Connemara, and spend basically all of our time there. How could we go wrong? (Actually, we contemplated spending all of this vacation in Kenmare, because we liked it so much last October--we're REALLY small town people.)

I know it is probably too much to ask for your additional thoughts, but heck, I've probably already destroyed your patience by now.

Why not base yourself around Sligo for the 7 days and day trip to all the places you want to see. I know Sligo town (which I really wouldn't recomnend) and I am unfamiliar with the areas around but believe them to be very nice.

Sligo is in the heart of where you want to go. You can visit Donegal, Fermanagh and Connemara from there. It is is also accessiable from Shannon (just about).

Think about it

Most of all enjoy your trip to Ireland and I hope all our critisism hasn't put you off

Helen

Helen,

just the opposite--your constructive criticism is extremely welcome.

And we will seriously consider your suggestion of staying in one centralized place, such as near Sligo. Just curious as to why not Sligo Town itself?