Ireland - Connemara base
 

I am planning a 2-weeks vacation in Ireland for August 2007. Ideally, we would like to start up in Connemara and work our way down to Cork county, with time spent in counties Clare and Kerry. This will minimize any back-tracking.

We are planning 3 nights in Connemara and I’m not sure, would it be possible to spend them all in one place? If so, what would be a good base? We don’t want to have to drive a lot each day, but enjoy the sights and the atmosphere, so a central base would be the best option.

If this idea works, Connemara will be our first stop in Ireland, meaning we would fly in (into Shannon) from the US East Coast then drive to our ‘base’ – again, we would not like this drive to be too long, so knowing all this, what do you think? Should we try a drive all the way there (where?) or should we stop for the first night in Doolin, do Connemara after that for 3 nights, then back-track down to the Loop Head, then Dingle?

You can see a full itinerary idea/draft here: http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34840614

Any advice appreciated, thanks a lot.

We enjoyed Clifden as a base. It's not too far to drive the first day (we fly from Chicago). You can then go one day to the north side of Connemara (maybe horseback ride in Cleggan and be sure to drive up the Renvyle Peninsula out of Letterfrack) and another day to the south side (Roundstone and the peat bog areas). Clifden is a large enough town that it has shops and things to do. At least that worked for us.

Hi xyz:

Glad your plans are coming together. On our last trip this May we stayed in Oughterard and found it very relaxing. It's a fairly easy trip into Galway if you want some night life. Clifden is certainly a possibility and one I could enjoy but there is less to do in the evening. On the other hand, you will have very long days at that time of year. It's sort of up to you as to what you are looking for. If you wnated to spend an evening or two in Galway, Clifden would be too far. Getting to Oughterard on the 1st day would be pretty easy. We stayed at the Waterfront B&B which sits right on Lough Corrib. Beautiful views.

We have always used the area around Clifden as a base as it is the perfect startng point for a number of incredible drives.

If you send me a note to [email protected], I can send you routings for my favorite drives.

My hysband has done the post-flight SNN to Clifden drive about three times and has managed it fine. Definately doable.

regards

Thank you all for these suggestions.

Holldoll,
Clifden sounds like a good idea, and I noticed a lot of people on this board recommend it. However, 3 hrs drive after a flight (sardines class) when I know we won’t be able to sleep at all…I don’t know.

Wojazz3,
Hmm, the plans are ‘coming together’ more or less – it will take a while to really define them, and I know I’ll have tons of questions. Oughterard sounds like a nice place, and it’s only 2 hrs drive from Shannon (a bonus, in our case). We don’t really care about the nightlife, so from this point of view, Clifden would not be a problem. However, traditional music would be nice.
What do you think about staying in Recess? That looks like right in the middle, so we could enjoy more with less driving…any idea of a nice B&B in that area?

Oreilly,
You’ve got mail. And maybe the 3 hrs drive to Clifden is doable, after all…

Recess is in the middle of nowhere. Having stayed in both Oughterard and Clifden (as well as Roundstone) I think I would opt for Clifden. It is inevitable that you will have to drive to get anywhere in Connemara. It is a large area.

xyz...I also heartily recommend Clifden as a perfect Connemara base. By the way, all you Clifden fans, is the lovely little cafe "Destry" (Rides Again) still open?? The owners also have a b and b at the harbor.

Stu T.

Hi xyz, I have sent you the Connemara driving tours and two others around Kerry.

Good luck with your planning. I know you will fall in love with Connemara. Here are some photos.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...9o2lj&Ux=1


Regards Ger

The only difficult part of the drive is the roundabouts around Galway. Once you successfully navigate that, you are on the N59 and it's one straight road and the drive is nothing. So going further out from Oughterard to Clifden is only a matter of about 50 km, or 45 minutes. I will say Oughterard is really charming, but there definitely is more in Clifden. We always stay at Abbeyglen Castle Hotel in Clifden, and we simply love it.

Be sure to have lunch or a drink at Ballynahinch.

Hi xyz99,
Irish Eyes is right, clifton is the best place to base yourself for touring connemara. Lots of lively pubs and some good restaurants. Unfortunately 'Destry' is now closed but try 'Mitchells', good food and reasonably priced (for Ireland!). Definitely Ballynahinch Castle for a drink, or lunch in the bar.

Have a great time, you will love connemara.

"Recess is in the middle of nowhere"

That may be true... but it is one of the most beautiful nowheres on the planet Earth.

Totally agree rholt :) There is a great little hotel there, perfect for anglers, where we had dinner one night.

Lough Inagh Lodge
Recess, Connemara, Co. Galway, Ireland
Tel: 095 34706 Fax: 095 34708
http://www.loughinaghlodgehotel.ie

BTW, some of the photos above were taken in the grounds of Ballynahinch Castle - be sure to take a walk around the grounds. We rented an apartment in the grounds, a converted fort.

I agree that Recess is a lovely "middle of nowhere". ;) It wasn't meant as a derogatory remark. It is just that most people who are spending a few days somewhere want a place with few amenities such as restaurants, pubs, etc. If you are fishing or hiking, that is another story. I certainly wouldn't mind a few days in Recess!

For a while, reading all your posts, I thought Clifden is the answer, with Oughterard a close second. And DH agreed to the longer drive, so everything was fine. Then came you, IrishEyes, saying that <<Recess is a lovely "middle of nowhere">>. Back to square one :(
But at least, I’ve narrowed it to only 3 options…
Thank you all, this was very helpful.

Don't understimate "middle of nowhere" in Connemara :) It will add a fair bit of time onto your driving. Check out Viamichelin.com to see how it affects your planned drives.

BTW, I strongly advise against doing a lot of driving at night along those roads, if you decide to stay in Recess - there are few lights and they are very minor roads. Not to be attempted after a couple of glasses of wine. Remember, this will be your first attempt at driving on the "wrong" side of the road.

Are you doing B&B or hotels?

Regards Ger

Ger,
Wow, you are right, this really puts things into perspective. The ‘wine factor’ and the narrow, unknown roads in the dark convinced me – Clifden it is. I know that days are long in August, but I’d rather not worry about driving and enjoy the music (and the Guinness) in a pub, then walk home.

As far as hotels vs. B&Bs, it will probably be mostly B&Bs. Need to decide the rest of the itinerary first, then I’ll do the bookings. Thanks a lot