Hi DW,

>Recognizing that the US dollar has taken a trouncing for several years now, is it just me or do the prices *still* seem to be high for dinner?<

I'm reporting on the better places we went to. Yes, in some cases the prices are higher than what we would spend at home, except for special occasions.

However, here in my little town in rural GA it generally costs us about $160(110E) for dinner for 2 with wine, tax and tip at places that aren't worth writing about.

There are many, many restos where you can have a pleasant, 2-course meal for under 25E.
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Hi CM,

>do you plan an annual trip or once every two years?

Usually, about every 18 mos, or so, eg, May 2008, Sept 2009, May 2010.
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Hi A,

>I don't understand the comment about the 'rosette',...

Like G, I was under the impression that the red rosette meant not quite 1 star.

Thank you for the correction.

((I))

Welcome back, reading your report is like meeting up again with an old friend. Looking forward to the next installments.

Hi Ira,

I'm enjoying your report and look forward to future installments. I'll be staying in Colmar for three nights next month; I've read in guidebooks that some of the route du vin villages are serviced by buses from Colmar. I would be curious to know which, in your opinion, are "must-see" villages.

Susan

Hi S,

>which, in your opinion, are "must-see" villages.<

There is a bus from Colmar Gare to Kaysersberg and Kientzheim. I'm sorry, but I didn't write the number down.

It leaves from the bus stands to the far right as you face the station. They are opposite a cafe. 4.6E pp RT.

If you get off in Kaysersberg, you can easily walk to Kientzheim (about 1km).

Michelin gives Kaysersberg 2*.

Kientzheim is an old walled village that was also important in the WWII battle of Colmar.

We like it very much.

The two towns together are worth at least 1/2 day.

Riquewihr (3* from Michelin) is about 2.5 km from Kientzheim. If you like walking, it is a pleasant route through the vineyards.

Ribeauville is also very nice.

I don't know how to get to the latter 2 by bus.

Enjoy your visit.

((I))

Hi all,

Here are my resto reviews for

Paris
For those more budget conscious than we, I offer:
Bistrot La Grille, where we usually have our first dinner in Paris, because it is a typical French resto, close to the hotel, relatively cheap, and we are not in the mood for a dining experience.
1 grand salad Niçoise (and it is large), 1 andouillete (very pungent) and 4 glasses of wine – 44.5E($70) +tip.

Au Chien Qui Fume , just outside the entrance to Les Halles on Rue du Pont Neuf. My Lady Wife says that the onion soup was better than at Pied au Cochon. That, a smoked fish platter (very good) and 1/c carafe of white Burgundy – 37E($58) + tip

Pizza Vesuvio (across the street from Eglise St. Germaine des Pres) – 2 menus of salad, pizza and dessert with 1/2 carafe of house wine – 47E($73) + tip

Leon de Bruxelles on Blvd St Germain – 2 menus, 4 beverages and 2 coffees 58E($90)

Café Chappe, 8 rue Tardieu (near Abesses Metro) – the Salade Auvergne with cantal cheese was very good, as was the Croque Monsieur. Didn’t care for the Grimbergen beer – too sweet. Prices about the same as Bistrot La Grille.

<b>Fish (La Boissoniere)</b>. . . A nice place with good food and pleasant service. 2 course menu 31.5E, 3 courses for 36.5E.
Roberta had the Pea soup (which she liked very much) and the steamed pike perch.
I had the terrine de fois gras (quite good)and the rouget.
We shared a lemon/orange tart, of which we both approved, along with a bottle of “Cerise” St. Magdeleine – 2004. I had a very nice Chateauneuf du Pape to go with my foie gras, and LW had a Vouvray that she found very nice. A very pleasant evening – 115E($180) + tip

<b>Le Ferrandaise</b> www.laferrandaise.com
The owners raise this breed of bovine, and they are enthralled by them. Cow pictures all over the room. Very pleasant atmosphere and good service.
Amuse bouche 1: New radishes with herb butter, pat&eacute; de compagne, sourdough bread. All fresh and flavorful.
Two vin blanc for an aperitif.
Amuse bouche 2: Small glass of veal consomm&eacute;.
For Roberta: iced bean and bacon soup – a potage of potatoes, beans, cucumbers and leeks topped with bacon and chive; Sea Perch in a Parmesan crust and a tomato stuffed with vegetables, artichokes and farmer’s cheese; strawberries in their own juice topped with mint leaves and a mint cream sauce with tuile crackers.
For me, the 32E menu: Marinated salmon with a confit of red onions and a salad; roast Poulet de Bresse (1 leg and 1/2 breast) with an apple/beet salad (PdB really is a very good chicken); cheese tray – 3 kinds – served with a basket of another kind of bread.
1 L of house white + 1 glass, coffee for 2.
All very, very good. Service was reasonably efficient (place was full), staff was very pleasant, owner was watchful.
Excellent value for the money – 90.5E($140) + tip.

<b>Maison du Jardin</b>
A slightly more formal room than La Ferrandaise with equally good service and food (Roberta thought that the fish was better).
We each had the 31E menu.
For LW: Iced gazpacho – better than most; Salt Cod and mashed potatoes with olive oil; strawberry soup with basil sorbet – best she had.
For me: Duck pat&eacute; de compagne, slow-cooked lamb served en croute with egg[lant – very, very good; tiramisu.
1/2 bottle of graves for me and 3 house white for LW.
Highly recommended – 85E($130) + tip.

<b><font color="red">TAILLEVENT</font></b>... www.taillevent.com
Not for people who say, “I eat to live. I don’t live to eat”, nor for foodies with jaded pallets looking for the latest cutting-edge offerings from molecular gastronomists. They offer excellent dining in an atmosphere of subdued luxury.
As we strolled up the avenue to the entrance, the doorman greeted us as if we had arrived in a Daimler, opened the door and turned us over to three gentlemen and a lady in the anteroom.
One gentleman checked our name off the reservations list, the lady divested us of our travel umbrellas, and another gentleman escorted us to our table in the Lammenais room where, with the aid of two other gentlemen (to pull out and reposition the table), my Lady Wife was ensconced on the banquette and I was seated. (Enthroned would be a mild exaggeration.)
The room is relatively plain, (old oak paneling, a few flower arrangements some objets d’art), quiet and very comfortably furnished.
Our aperitif order was taken by a uniformed footman, who soon returned with a glass of vin de la maison (a Pouilly Fuiss&eacute; ) for LW and a kir for me.
The proper means of making a kir: set wine glass on table, add kir, swirl, let rest. Repeat. Add wine, a little at a time while swirling. (I can’t say that the method of preparation necessarily improved the drink, but it was a good kir.)
Our orders were taken by a waiter. The wine steward soon arrived, having been informed of our order, to offer his advice.
Amuse bouche: A tomato gel with a tiny mozzarella egg and greens, topped with a bit of cr&egrave;me fraiche.
Entrees: Roberta had the smoked salmon. This came as a bowl of what appeared to cream of tomato soup with a dollop of sour cream, but was actually a mousse of lightly smoked salmon with a quenelle of basil-flavored ice cream.
I had the poached egg with asparagus and mushrooms – a more traditional presentation.
Since we usually offer each other tastes from our dishes, I was caught with my fork halfway to Roberta’s bowl of salmon mousse by our footman who offered me a “tasting dish”. One doesn’t take things from each other’s silverware, nor reach into another’s plate. The diner scoops a bit of stuff out with a spoon and sets it on the tasting dish, which is then passed by the footman.
Mains: Rouget for LW and duck breast with apricots were served without fancy garnishes or towers of stuff, just straightforward excellent food.
Cheese course: A spoonful of raw milk chevre wrapped in scallions and topped with a bit of fried chive and tapenade.
Varioous house-made rolls were offered as the meal progressed.
Dessert: A chocolate/raspberry confection for me (you can see it on the website) and a peach tart for Roberta.
Coffee was served with an assortment of tiny cakes and pastries.
Wines were chosen by the wine steward. They were very good, went well with the courses, and were priced from the middle of the menu, but I have no idea what they were.
After refusing an invitation to call a taxi, we arose from the table (I pushed my chair back a few inches and waited – it took a count of two for a waiter to assist me. Two others extracted LW from behind the table.), were escorted to the ante room where the umbrella lady was waiting for us, along with the gentlemen who had greeted us upon arrival. We were very pleasantly thanked for honoring the establishment with our presence and escorted out the door.
You might note that I have not graced each course with descriptions such as “very good” or “superb”, etc. This does not mean that they weren’t. It would be superfluous to keep writing “outstanding”.
A wonderful experience in being treated like royalty (or at least rich and famous). 209E($325) + tips.

((I))

Thanks for the suggestions regarding buses/villages, Ira. I'm enjoying reading about the restaurants. Looking forward to more installments. S

Hi all,

Here is the last installment:

C: What we did
Limo pickup to ATL, check in and boarding flight uneventful, except for a 0:30 hr delay. Arrived Zurich about 0:15 hr late. Return from CDG also uneventful. We flew Delta RT this time because the AF flight was $300 pp more. Seats 25E,F (on the aisle) give a good view of the large TV screen.
Arr Zurich, collected luggage followed signs to SBB. Got on line to buy 2 Zurich passes – worth the money because you get free transport to/from the airport, free rides on the trolleys, free admission to most of the Zurich sights, and a free RT to Uetliburg (pronounced &Uuml;tliberg).
There was a minor incident with a twit who just walked up and got in line in front of me. If he had explained that it was because he had had to go back to get his passport, it would have saved both of us some adrenalin.
Arrived at the Zurich train station. Construction work caused a detour of a few blocks to the St. Josef hotel. Although it was only about 09:30 our room was ready. Set ourselves down. Unwound from the flight. Took a walk down by the river, saw some of the Old Town.

Zurich . . .During our stay, we visited the Zoological Gardens – very nice, but because of rain we were limited to the indoor conservatory; wandered through Old Town; took the train to Uetliberg, a little town up in the mountains – great views; went to the Landesmuseum – nice exhibits of prehistoric Switzerland and a very interesting building – especially the rooms taken from various houses (1500 – 1800); took the train to Luzern - a very nice city with a lovely waterfront and some interesting art and architecture.
Church bells rang at various odd hours during the day – charming.

Lindau and the Bodensee. . . The train ride to Lindau was enlivened by a very drunk, but not unpleasant, gentleman and 4 old biddies (there is no other way to describe them) returning from a shopping trip, who were outraged that people were sitting in 2 of the 4 seats that they had reserved. Even after other passengers offered to rearrange the seating, they insisted that they had to sit only in those seats. The two offenders claimed, in French, to speak no German or English. When addressed by the conductor (who arrived just in the nick of time) in French, they claimed not to understand that either.
Order was restored when the miscreants got off at the next station.
Lindau is a very pleasant town of old houses (1600’s) and new villas (1890’s), with pleasant parks, an old wall, and beautiful views of the lake and surrounding mountains. We took the train to St. Gallen for the Cathedral and the Monastery Library (well worth the ride). I was amused to find a soccer court hidden away in one of the inner courts of the Monastery. A picture of a number of tonsured Brother Cadfaels running about in ther robes came immediately to mind.
We took the train to Friedrichshafen Stadt station and the bus to Meersburg. A very nice old town that is worth visiting for about 1/2 day. We much enjoyed the bottle of Meersburg Bengal Spaetburgunder that we bought at the wine coop.
The weather remained overcast, windy, chilly and rainy, so we elected to skip Mainau this visit, but our spirits were lifted by the ringing of bells throughout the week.

Alsace. . . We took the train to Strasbourg via Friedrichshafen and Stuttgart. As we passed Ravensburg, we noticed the towers (A fellow passenger told us that the town has 14 of them.) and we could see the spire of the Munster of Ulm. There is such a thing as a free lunch. Even though we had paid only 19E PREMS fare for our 1 cl tickets (same as for 2 cl) we got a pleasant lunch, with wine.
We picked up the car in Strasbourg at the Europcar office across the street from the train station. Very nice, helpful staff. We had contracted for a Volkswagen Golf, but they gave us a Renault Laguna Diesel - very plush. Diesel ran from 1.44 to 1.61E/L. Car, with AT, got 30 mpg, mostly on mountains.
Stopped by Haut Konigsberg, for the views, on the way to Kientzheim. Arrived at the Hostellerie Schwendi in time for a short stroll and a bottle of Pinot Gris d’Alsace on the balcony before dinner.
Lots of car clubs (Lotus, Morgan, Benz, Porsche, antique, etc) all over the region this week.
We visited all of the towns along the Route du Vins between Obernai and Turckheim, mostly along the bike routes; drove two loops through the Vosges; visited the Black Forest with a stop at Gengenbach (worth a detour if you are in the vicinity) before driving the Schwarzwalder Hochstrasse to Baden Baden and on to Strasbourg and return; took the bus to Colmar where we visited the Unterlinden Museum and Petite Venise, went to the butterfly exhibit at Hunnawihr; saw two nuts in Dambach-la-Ville (a very small town) who were blocking the road – each refusing to back up. After a few minutes of watching them argue in a very Gallic manner, I drove onto the sidewalk and went around them. I wonder what happened when the tour bus that we passed got to their corner.
Is it possible to see too many charming Alsatian villages? Yes.
Can one sip too many Alsatian wines? Yes.
Can you get tired of nesting storks? Yes
We spent 7 nights in Kientzheim. Next time we will do 5 nights in one of the villages and 2 nights in Strasbourg without a car.

Paris. . . Took the TGV Est from Strasbourg. It goes really, really fast. My Lady Wife says that this is the last time she is taking the Metro with luggage. I think that that is only because the weather went from chilly and damp to hot and humid. However, when we arrived limp and sweaty at the Bonaparte, we were taken up to our room without the usual check-in formalities. Thank G-d for air conditioning and a shower.
Highlights of our Paris visit: The Orangerie, where Monet’s “Nympheas” (Water Lilies) are displayed the way they were meant to be seen. In addition, the Guillame collection has been very well arranged to give an historical insight into the development of the impressionists and their contemporaries;
Fete-de-St Germain – in the Pl St. Sulpice; Fete de La Dordogne near Sacre Coeur, where we got some Cabe&ccedil;ou,
Malmaison – be aware that Malmaison is outside Zone 1. You can get there with your Metro ticket, but you have to pay extra to get out. For the return you can buy tickets to Paris from the automatic machines, but you need bills smaller than a 20E;
Auvers-sur-Oise – a very pleasant town where Van Gogh spent his later years. Definitely not touristy. We stopped in at a creperie that advertised that it was open from 11:30 to 14:30 at 13:45 and were told that we could not be seated (c’est impossible). Don’t go on Monday or Tuesday – all of the Van Gogh related museums are closed.
Muse&eacute; Nissim Camondo – beautiful and tragic, and the Parc Monceau.
Note to self: Do not make reservations at Les Ombres at the Muse&eacute; Branly, where you will not get back to the hotel until after midnight, if your Lady Wife has to get up at 05:00 to get to the airport by 08:30.

D. Miscellaneous notes:
Paris fashion notes: push-up bras and lots of cleavage. I didn’t notice anything else.

Thanks to all who helped me put this visit together, and there were many. Hope that this report helps others.

((I))

Ira, you always enlighten me about what visitors see in Paris that I don't see myself.

kerouac are you referring to the push up bras? LOL! I don't remember my husband mentioning that. We were too busy looking DOWN as I was the first to christen my shoes with merde du chien.

Great report IRA! I just got home from France as well and my report is posted. Cheers!!!!

Ira, does your Lindau hotel have an elevator? It's not included in the mod cons listed on their web site. For my mother, an elevator is necessary.

Great trip report. My daughter and I just returned from Paris on Friday.We followed you recommendation and stayed at the Hotel Bonaparte room #22. We loved the small balcony with geranium filled window boxes. The hotel staff was very accommodating. I think we took those same bus routes. Thanks for your help in the past.

Hi BT,

&gt;Ira, does your Lindau hotel have an elevator?

Unfortunately, no.
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Hi D,

Glad you enjoyed your stay at the Bonaparte.

Happy to have helped.

((I))

Thank you for a wonderful trip report, Ira. Your description of Taillevent has made me start saving for our next trip to Paris. Had given up, because of the Euro, but --- maybe ---

:-)

Did you dine at Les Ombres? If so, I can't find the restaurant review in your report?

Hi J,

Re Les Ombres:

&gt;Note to self: Do not make reservations at Les Ombres at the Muse&eacute; Branly, where you will not get back to the hotel until after midnight, if your Lady Wife has to get up at 05:00 to get to the airport by 08:30.&lt;

We will go to Les Ombres next time.

((I))

Ira,
Thanks for the entertaining report! I had a laugh-out-loud moment over the fashion trend in Paris. I leave for Switz &amp; Alsace in a few weeks -- all by train/bus. Next year, France. I'll look into the Bonaparte in Paris. Looks like a good location. Thanks! S

bookmark!

OMG, we must have shocked them terribly at Taillevant when we actually ate a half portion of a dish and then picked it up and switched plates. No one informed us of the 'tasting plate'. We won't be able to show our faces there again. Could I be gauche and ask if this was dinner or lunch?

Ira:

A superb report--as usual. Most enjoyable and highly informative. Gradyghost

Great report, Ira. Thanks for taking the time to share.

Which was your favorite town in Alsace and why?