Ira Does Italy
 

Hi all,

Arrived FCO on Sunday, about 30 min late from PHL, and went immediately to Florence.

If you want to exchange a few dollars for euro at PHL, do not stop at the Thomas Cook office on the way to International Departures. There is a cheaper exchange bureau in the departures area.

With our plane being late, we were glad we had made reservations for the 12:30 train to Florence. It took 1 1/4 hr to get our luggage. We had no trouble at Customs, but be aware that they spot check. If you are picked, you will lose about 1/2 hr. As it was, we got to Rome TE just in time to see the 11:30 ES* leaving.

For those of you of the "fly cheap, sleep cheap, eat well" philosophy, I am pleased to report that the B&B Peterson (they have a website) is a very good place for about 65E dbl. We have a king-size bed in a 12 x 18 A/C room. Windows are double-glazed to keep out street noise. Bathroom is brand new.

It is about an 8-10 min walk from the train station on a large well-lit street. There is a bus stop, 7 different lines, in front of the building, a cafe for bkfst on the corner, a phone booth and a bank around the other corner.

Checked in to the B&B, freshened up, walked about and went down to the train station where we took the no 7 bus to Fiesole. It is a beautiful ride up the mountain. For those of you staying at the Villa San Michele, you will be pleased to know that the bus stops right in front of the Villa.)

Wandered about a bit and stopped in at the Bar Blue. They have a patio overlooking Florence. Beautiful view. Had a bottle of local white wine for 15E. They also gave us a bowl of toast with 4 different toppings.
Highly recommended.

Went for dinner at place that turned out to be a disappointment, so I won't name it. How could they be out of truffles at 8:00 if they don't open until 7:30?

More to come.

ciao

Monday we took the 10:44 train to Orvieto. We had made reservations at I Sette Consoli.

This is an absolute must for Foodies visiting Orvieto, in the vicinity of Orvieto, or anywhere between Rome and Florence.

Lunch was under a capony in the garden. Service was first rate. Cooking was superb. Wine prices were not unreasonable. If everyone at the table will have it, they offer a 40 E, six-course lunch special.

Zuccini flowers stuffed with ricotta and served with shrimp, tagliatelle with basil in olive oil, fried perch, lamb loin with porcini mushrooms, three kinds of cheese, choice of 3 desserts.

To get to the town from the train station, you ride up a funicular railway. Terrific views.

The railway ticket is good for the bus that takes you to the Pzza Duomo. The facade is still under restoration, but well worth the visit. The town is well-preserved and cahrming to wander through. There are spectacular views from various points.

Left Orvieto on the 17:47 (leaving at 18:10) and arrived back at the B&B at 9:30.

And so to bed.

ira, glad to see all is going well. I didn't realize Orvieto was so close to Florence. Only 25 minutes via train?

sorry, I misread the times. All makes sense now.

ira, looks like you are off to a good start. I like your fly cheap, sleep cheap and eat well way of travel.

Did Orvieto live up to all your expectations and was the meal your central focus? I assume it was a long, but easy daytrip?

I was thinking of stopping for one night enroute from Rome to Florence.

Ira,
The trip sounds great.

I suggest you take notes and write about your trip on your return and limit the time you spend on a computer.

Hi Ira, I'm green with envy, but enjoying your updates! Can't wait to hear about the rest of your trip. Stay safe and have a great time!

Hi Ira, Love your report so far but don't waste your valuable vacation time on the computer!

Thanks for the update, Ira! Now, don't think this means you don't have to do a trip report when you get home.

Glad to hear you're enjoying yourself, Ira. I sure wish we would've made it to Orvieto when we where there.

Your wonderful report and trip are both off to a great start! Thanks for posting, have a fun & safe journey!

Thanks for your report Ita..I wished that I was in Tuscany also.
Enjoy La Dolce Vita!!
Ciao,
Kismet

Ira, do what you want...post now, post later...we'll take it all!! I just want you to enjoy Italy, and know that the rest of us (admittedly or not) are green with envy!

My husband and I did Orvieto, quite by accident, almost 20 years ago. We were driving from Florence to Rome and saw this interesting acropolis along the autostrada. We decided to stop for lunch and had one of the more memorable meals of our trip. The ambience no doubt played a part in that memory (and that Orvieto white wine was great!). But isn't that what it's all about, folks??

I just wish I was there right now, Ira! Do enjoy. And I will look for more...

IRA,
You're a gem.!!
Hope that your holiday is marvelous...it's well deserved!!!

IRA! I can not believe you left without me!

I love that you are writting to us all while you are experiencing it. How long will you be in Florence? If you go to the Ponte Vecchio can you stop by "the Golden River" shop and tell Patty hello for me? Is it still blazing hot over there? Bring on the details. This is great! a doppo!

Calamari, What's the Golden River shop?

swalter

It is a jewlery shop in Florence that I worked in briefly while doing some research for a book. The entire world walked right past that shop window.

Hi folks,

Weather has greatly improved. Temps about 80F or less, winds about 5 - 10 mph, fair skies.

Spent Tuesday visiting Florence. Walked to the Duomo and did the Baptistry and the Museo as well. By noon, there are wall to wall people.

Had gelato at Perche No: 1/2 chocolate truffle, 1/2 mascarpone. My Lady Wife had a lemon ice. Both verry good.

Crossed over the Ponte Vecchio, lots of shops selling lots of gold. Nice view up the river.

Went to the Uffizi. Did the whole upstairs an couldn't find 'Birth of Venus' and 'The Annunciation'. Turned out we had been blocked by a tour group, and in trying to get around them had missed the gallery. Eventually found it by doing the whole thing in reverse.

Be prepared to be both disappointed and delighted by the Uffizi (a) lots of so-so stuff, (b) poorly exhibited, with most works behind plastic shields, (c) lots of works need cleaning (d) some really first rate works that aren't in the guide books. It's not very big, so you can take your time and look.

There are metal detectors for security, so be prepared to wait on line. We had 10 - 20 min wait with reservations. Those without had a 90 -150 min wait.

If you have reservations, you are told to go to door 4. There is no door 4. It was a sort of Harry Potter experience. You take on faith the guards word that a certain line is where you should stand and eventually you are inside.

Dinner at Osteria Cinghali Bianco. Very gemutlich place. Good, but not outstanding, food. Interesting local wines. Tagliati had a very generous sprinkling of truffles. Roast rabbit tastes like chicken (I'm sorry. It does.) Strozzapreti (spinach/ricotta dumplings) were very light and fluffy.

Wednesday, took the train to Bologna. Very scenic, lots of tunnels.

Bologna bustles. Lots of fun walking through the various arcades. Made the rounds - Neptune fountain, major churches, minor churches.

Had gelato at xxxxxxxx (wrote the name down somewhere else) absolutely WONDERFUL. Even my LW admitted that it was very good.

San Stefano was closed for lunch when we got there, so had lunch al fresco at Cesarina's on the Pizza.

This is a jewel. Pleasant surroundings, proper service, excellent food. The wines are from the family vineyards - Umberto Cesari.

Shared a mixed antipasto - Cantaloup with prosciuto, bruscheta with another kind of prosciuto, seafood salad (rare in Bologna) and tagliatelli with sauce Bolognese. The sauce had that almost burnt flavor that comes from long, long browning of the meat. Dessert was a generous cup of blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and ribes. This last is a little, grape-like thingy that we had not seen before.

Visited San Stefano after lunch, went to see the towers, wandered about.

Dinner at Nuovi Notai, first class. Impeccable, yet pleasant, service. Good food, nice wines. LW had Pecorinao and Pear salad, Potato flan with fried leeks, Tagliatelli with Porcini mushrooms. (I would have done the pears as dessert.) I had the potato flan, Tagllieri in duck ragu, roast lamb, and finished with a Vin Santo with pistachio biscotti.

Wine was a white Pignoletto (which turned out to be by Umbero Cesari) in deference to my LW, and a glass of Rosso de Montalcino to go with the lamb.

Returned to the train station and waited a bit for the 10:48 train to Florence. Arrived at midnight. And so to bed.

Note: Dinners are about 110 E for two, lunch about 50 E for two, except for Il Setto Consoli, which was worth every penny.


Wine was a Trebbiano di Romagna.

Ira, you are a goldmine. I love these live reports! Sounds like you're having a fabulous time. Enjoy the rest of your trip!

Sounds like you are having a great time, Ira. Thanks for the live report. Makes me feel like I'm back again. Looking forward to your next installment!

Ira, please know that many deskchair travelers are living vicariously through you now! Thank you for the reports, and for giving me little things to look forward to in Italy in March! I'm taking copious notes! Enjoy!

Ira,
This is great. I'm enjoying and salivating at every word. You are making me so hungry for Italy. I hope you keep posting.
Mama

Thanks Ira. Sounds like Bologna was very enjoyable. I feel like I'm right there with you!

Wonderful report Ira (though I do somewhat disagree with your take on the Uffizi). It sounds as if you are being more than properly nourished! Isn't Italian food wonderful? Glad you're having good weather and enjoying your trip.

Ira: Ribes are black currants. Mmmm...

Hi all,

Returned to Florence. Went to the Accademia for the David. Beautiful piece of work, despite the scaffolding that now covers his left side and back.

Note, that is not an image of a Jewish man.

Wandered about the city, saw sights, nibbled, window shopped.

Dinner at Il Ritrovo at 4 via dei Pucci.

This is a MUST. We have eaten there twice now, and have been hard pressed to spend 100E for two with wine.

Owned by Marco, who does the cooking, and Rosetta, who is the server, this is a lovely place in a vaulted, white-washed basement.

Dinner opens with a complimentary proseco and closes with ice cold limoncello. In between are pasta, risotto, prawns, shrimp, veal, lamb, beef, vegetables, fruits and sweets that are fresh, perfectly ripe, carefully prepared and beatifully presented.

Antipasto Fantasia: 8 offerings of meats cheeses and toasts
Risotto w/zucchini and shrimp: just perfect
Prawns baked in sauce marinara: Sweet and succulent
Veal Scallopine in lemon sauce: bright with flavor
Mixed vegetables: / kinds, each just so (I didn't finish my beets)
Sea Bream baked in foil: flaky, moist and briney (Rosetta removed and served it beautifully)
Chocolate souffle in creme anglais, tiramisu the way it should be.

Our first visit, Marco insisted that I have the less expensive wine, since the one I had chosen wouldn't be as good with the food. Our second visit, he substituted taghliatelli for the tagliare because the finer pasta would be overwhelmed by the sauce.

Visited the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. Them Medici sure knew how to live. Views from the terrace of the Porcelain Museum and the Kaffeehause are spectacular. Kaffeehause is closed for renovation. Boboli Gardens are in need of some TLC. Keep in mind the gardens are UPHILL both ways.

Went to Lucca on Sunday because they hold an antiques market on the 3rd Sunday of the month. Very big, very pricey flea market. Saw the town and its churches. Very pleasant afternoon.

Had dinner at the Salaam Bombay, Via Fratelle Roselli, 45r. Very good Indian restaurant. Excellent cheese-stuffed Nan and excellent eggplant. Menus in Hindi, Italian and English.

Off to Venice today.

Ciao

Hi Ira: Up late tonight because it's so hot and enjoyed reading your most recent note. Your trip continues to sound fabulous. Yes the Medicis did know how to live, but I must say you seem to have the same ability!

Enjoy Venice. Our visit there last year was much too short. Hope we can return and stay longer.

Thanks for keeping us updated, Ira! We really enjoyed the view from the Porcelain Museum at Boboli Gardens, as well, but I'm sorry to hear that the gardens are still in need of TLC. However, it sounds like you're having a fantastic time.

Can't wait to hear your update on the magical city of Venezia. Take care and continue enjoying yourselves!

Weather.com says you are having rain in Venice but every time I look at the web cam, the weather looks beautiful. We'll be arriving on Thursday evening!

Hi all,

Went to Venice Monday and Tuesday. Stayed overnight at the Carlton Hotl Capri because it is close to the train station and the Scuola Rocco, which we wanted to see, and we got a good discount rate.

They put us up in one of the smaller rooms on the 4th flr.

more to come

Sorry,

Ran out of time on my internet card.

They put us in one of the smaller rooms on the 4th flr. Elevator only goes to 3rd flr. We only had one bag, so it was OK. Had a nice view over the roofs to the dome of the S. Simon de Piccolo. Very pleasant staff.

Had ham and eggs for breakfast. First time for an American breakfast in over a week.

Went to Specchia Barberini at 1720 Via Dei Christi for Venetian masks. We have been collecting masks from Mr Barberini because he sticks to traditional styles and colors. His niece, Michelle, is now running the shop while Barberini is in semi-retirement. Got a gold and silver sun and a beautiful green jester.

Wandered about town. Got lost. Wandered some more. Bought some saffron at about 1/5 of the price at home. (Madison, GA is not noted for its exotic shopping.)

Dinner at Cantinone Storico. It is on a canal near the Accademia bridge,, within sound of the bells of one of the churches. Lovely atmosphere. Excellent cooking. Very good presentation. Superior service.

Had tuna carpaccio, mixed seafood antipasto, seafood risotto, Sea bass, cheese platter (gorgonzola, belle paese and reggiano parmesano).

With the antipasti, we had the house white - a nice Pinot Grigio. With dinner a bottle of Mercato Vendemenia - an assertive and slightly resinous white.

Ran out of wine when it was time for the cheese. Asked if the Mercato came by the glass. Waiter said "no". Didn't want another full bottle so asked for a 1/4 L of the house. Waiter made a face. Brought a bottle of the Mercato. Poured two glasses. No charge. I like people who know that dining is an art form.

Yesterday did the Secret Itineraries Tour. Had reservations for the 10:45 tour. Arrived at 10:20, as ordered. Got my ticket, clearly printed "10:45 tour". Sat at the meeting point and waited. 10:45 came and went. Nothing.

To be cont.

At 11:00 went and asked when the tour would start. After a few minutes, I was sent to the information desk, where I was greeted by name and told that "actually, there is no 10:45 English tour. The next English tour is at 11:30". Ah, belle Italia.

Went on the 11:30 tour. Interesting. Wandered through the Doge's Palace. Had a quick lunch. Went to the Grande Scuolo Rocco. Overwhelming number of Tintorettos. Needs a few visits to absorb.

Took the 6:30 train back to Florence. It began to rain. Arrived Florence in a gentle rain that lasted all night. Everyone very happy since it is the first rain since May.

Ronda
Rain stopped this morning. Expect same is true of Venice. It is cloudy, but not threatening.

Thanks for transporting me back to Venezia, Ira. I certainly miss it. Looking forward to more of your report.

Wonderful report Ira. Cantinone Storico sounds great. Wish we had tried it. Were you sad to leave Venice?

Hi Ira - sounds like Luigi waited on you!
>:D<

Ira reminds me of the feelings that being in the Louvre and the Tate brought..that I really need months in this place to be able to absorb all of this beauty!
Happy Travels Ira!! ((F))

I was so glad to see your report.I leave soon and was hoping for last minute tips. Thanks for taking time to update us! Enjoy

Thanks to all for your kind words.

I'll be posting my report soon.

Hey Ira!
Don't wait too long to post that report! Not trying to rush you too much (!) but we're leaving early Monday 13th for Italy and I want to get all the latest from your trip before I go!
Mama