International Travel Rookie has some questions
 

It has been nearly 20 years since my semester abroad, and all of those arrangements were made for me. My sister (41) and I (38) will be traveling to Madrid and Morocco, mainly Marrakesh in April.

What travel tips do you recommend, specifically the following:

Traveling with currency -
* how much Euros and MDR should we have in cash before our trip?
* Where are the best places to use credit cards and/or traveler's checks?

Safely tips for two women traveling alone?

What types of lodging arrangements do you recommend - we are looking for clean, safe, and moderately priced (B&B, Hotel, guest house, apartment?), not luxury accommodations.

Thank you!!

Hi Kimmers -- Congratulations on your upcoming trip!

I am same age as you and often travel alone (or sometimes just my mother + myself), and find that for the most part, in most urban areas, I take the same precautions as when I travel in the US: keeping my purse close, avoiding dark/deserted streets, not accepting drinks from strangers :)

W/r/t currency: I have found that travelers checks are increasingly less common and often difficult to cash. I would avoid using.

Credit cards are also used much less frequently in Europe (and I imagine North Africa as well). Try to use cc's for major purchases only, as in many establishments (restaurants and such) they will either not accept them at all, tell you that "the machine is down," or add a surcharge. If you have time and want to use cc's, apply for one thru Capital One (which does not tack on transaction fees for foreign currency transactions). Often credit unions have the same terms. Most other cc's (Citibank, Chase, etc) charge ~3% or more transaction fee on top of the currency exchange rate, just for converting your transaction from dollars to euros (or whatever the local currency is.)

Assume that most of your transactions when you're abroad will be in cash. Take your ATM card with you. Check with your bank to see if and where they have any branches or ATM machines in your destination, or if they have a reciprocal agreement at another bank. Make sure they are aware (as well as your cc company) that you are traveling -- you can usually put an alert on your account with your travel dates and countries -- be sure to include any countries you are traveling through, even just to change planes. Make sure you have a PIN number and know it in digits (most keypads have numbers only, so if your PIN is a word, know it in numbers.

I usually wait and withdraw money in the local currency at an ATM machine at the airport when I land, although occasionally if I am concerned about not having time to do so (e.g., landing very late or having a tight connection) I will get a small amount (enough to cover ground transportation to hotel + first day's expenses) beforehand. For euros, you can ask usually ask your local bank to order them ahead of time if you are planning in advance (I never remember to do that.) Otherwise, the Travelex at the airport at home gives decent rates and lets you change back to USD without additional fees. Avoid non-Travelex currency exchanges, especially in the airport/train station at your arrival destination. They usually charge exhorbitantly.

W/r/t lodging - Generally speaking, if it is my first time in a place and I think I will want to do heavy sightseeing or local activities, I try to stay in a b&b or hotel where there is a good, friendly front desk or concierge (you can usually tell from reviews on bookings.com, TripAdvisor, or from feedback here on Fodors). This is because I like to be able to have someone to ask questions: how do I get here, what's the best time to go there. I often ask the front desk for suggestions for good restaurants or evening activities to go as a woman alone (this will be less of an issue since there are 2 of you traveling, but you may want to consider that for Morocco especially). On my 2nd trip to a destination, I will often get an apartment or someplace with fewer services, but that is after I feel comfortable that I can navigate my way around. Also, an apartment is good if you are staying a long time or plan to cook at home a great deal -- if you are someone who is excited about the food/restaurants you'll encounter on your trip, I do not know that an apartment will save you all that much.

For Morocco specifically -- I have not been, but be sure to check the boards and post questions regarding traveling as a woman there. You will want to make sure, for example, that you carry a scarf with you at all times, as there will be places you will need to wear a headscarf (in Turkey I ended up just wearing a headscarf all the time, to save trouble of taking it on and off. It also greatly reduced the number of touts on the street calling out or even following me).

Wow, I just wrote a lot. Hope it was helpful. You can do a search on the boards for ATM or credit card and get threads about that specifically. Also, you can review some trip reports and see if anyone's stayed at accommodations you might be interested in. If you are looking at a specific itinerary or place to stay, you can post and many people here will give you feedback on their experiences.

Good luck and have fun!

First, cross-post on the Africa/ME board and specify Morocco. Be aware of customs and dress expectations in Morocco especially.

Second, Travelers checks are useless. Bring none.

Third, ATMs are ubiquitous in large cities like Madrid and Marrakesh. As long as your CASH network is either Cirrus or Plus, you'll be fine.

Fourth, bring NO foreign money from the US with you. Get your money at the airport ATMs. Otherwise, prepare for your local US bank to really hammer you with a bad exchange rate and/or high fees.

Fifth, be vigilant about your possessions. Spain is infamous for quick fingers, both in Madrid and Barcelona and its near-third-world economy won't help that situation.

You rarely need a head scarf in Morocco as you're only allowed into a very few active religious sites.

Treat all reviews on the Morocco section of tripadvisor with great caution.

I usually recommend that newbies read Rick Steves' "Europe Through the Back Door", Ed Hasbrouck's "Practical Nomad" and either Rough Guide or Lonely Planet's first timer guides.

Travelers checks are useless - no one will take them and they re very expensive. Use credit cards for everything possible and pull cash for walking around money from your checking account at an ATM. If you really feel comfortable with some local cash in your pocket change $100 or $150 in the Bureau de Change in your departure airport. The rate will be awful - but it's so little money it doesn't matter.

Two women should be perfectly safe as long as they use the normal precautions they would in any city anyplace in the world.

Can't help with hotels since this isn;t our price point.

But if it were me I would do Andalusia instead of Marrakech. Fascinating area since it;s the only part of europe with a Moorish past - we've visited twice (one 10 days and once 12 - and still have a lot we want to see). We will do Morocco on a later - separate tip - when we can devote the time needed.

How long is your trip?

Spain is many countries in one so if your trip is two weeks or less I would only see Spain.

Rick Steve's advice on Spain is inane. Someone gave he a copy of his book and his writing is lazy and his recommendations are narrow.

Generally Fodor's and Frommer's for good for hotels and restaurants, although they have gotten better on sights. Small towns are almost non-existent.

Michelin Green is best for sights and Rough Guide and Lonely Planet are opinionated but terrible on hotels and restaurants

A few things.

Spain does not have a B & B tradition. They have all sorts of accomodations and if you see a B & B be sure to ascertain whether you are living in someone's apartment, sharing a sleeping area, or some other variation on the theme.

We bring approximately the equivalency of $100 to the first country we are going to visit. This is in case the ATM's does not accept your card or something else you did not anticipate. That way we have money for a cab, tips, and a first meal. Ask friends and relatives if they have coins for that country, that way you do not have to overtip.

The main reason why Europeans use credit cards less than Americans is liability. If you have a credit card issued by a European financial institution and it is lost or stolen, the holder is repsonsible for all charges until the bank is notified. Maybe there are a few European banks that vary but that is the general rule.

And just to echo the others, there is no need for traveler's cheques.

Be sure to make xeroxes of your passport, credit cards, and driver's license. That way if they are stolen or lost you have the account and phone numbers.


Make sure you read the exlusions and provisions of any travel insurance you may buy. They vary tremendously.

Aduchamp1 - I did not recommend RS's guide books, which I agree don't cover enough ground (and do ignore his restaurant recs). I recommended "Europe Through the Back Door" which is a general guide to budget travel in Europe, and useful for first timers. WRT to Lonely Planet's hotel recs, while I mostly use them for Asia rather than Europe, they are good for budget to mid-range, which is what the OP wants. Fodors and Frommers start at a higher price point.

I don't know if it is still included in the current Europe Through The Back Door, but Steve's used to recommend consuming uneaten food from other people's cafeteria trays. And it was accompanied by a picture of him doing so, beleive it or not.

Rick has mellowed quite a bit since his "travelling poor" days. He has had a policy of not including areas he hasn't personally visited in his guide books. I'm not certain if he still has this policy, but the advantage is that you know he's actually seen and done the things he writes about--nothing second-hand. The disadvantage: it's difficult for one person to have visited every possible place some other potential tourist might want to see.

Last summer, I had good luck traveling with Rick Steves's Italy guide. It wasn't comprehensive, but it was excellent for the cities it covered. Steves's advice was practical and detailed.

I haven't traveled with it yet, but I'm impressed with Fodor's Spain 2011 guide. It has good coverage of sights and uses a very readable format.

Last summer, I had good luck traveling with Rick Steves's Italy guide. It wasn't comprehensive, but it was excellent for the cities it covered. Steves's advice was practical and detailed.

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Someone gave a me a copy of Steve's Spain. I just skimmed through it. He calls Velázquez the court photojournalist. This demonstrates a complete lack of understanding of western art. Velázquez is one of our most inluential and seminal painters. And while this comparision is fine for the casual traveler, it is lazy and, indeed, ignorant writing by a professional travel writer and a disservice to the reader.

As someone noted he does not write about places where he has not been. While that is a valid reason, why hasn't he visited more places? One glaring omission, for example, is Santander. He writes about Santillana del Mar but excludes Santander. Those towns are usually said in the same breath.

There are so many good travel books on Spain including Michelin Green and the lesser known Cadogan guides, that is ashame that people are led around Spain by Steve's.

Kimmerstravels: My only advice (beyond the excellent actual ADVICE you've received so far) would be do NOT get yourself entangled in ANY discussion or debate about Rick Steves and what he does, what he USED to do, how practical or impractical his books, products, wife, TV show, etc. is are or ever has been.

As a so-called "rookie" you may be interested in knowing that some decisions are best made on your own and lived with. That's what gets you out of rookie status.

Enjoy your trip.

I too would skip Morroco and enjoy Andalucia as it is 100 times more relaxing and fun, but if you must go to Morroco then Marrakesh and Essouira are the places to go. Guides will hound you everywhere practically dragging you to their uncle's cafe for tea, I have had guides barge into my hotel room. Just say no thank you if you don't want to deal with them. However I do recommend a guide to travel through the souk so you don't get lost, and you can learn a lot about their culture by asking questions. They get a commission on anything you buy from a store owner or restaurant and at the end will want some money from you. Agree on a price beforehand and negotiate it down. In Morroco people double the price so you can usually end up with 50% off asking price, haggle with a smile and have fun with it. Bring toilet paper in Morroco unless you're staying in a nice hotel. In Spain stay at Hostals (not hostels) which are small family run hotels. I like Hostal Macarena next to the Plaza Mayor in Madrid for it's location. On tripadvisor you can review tons of them. Also I find tripadvisor reviews in Marrakesh to be completely fouled up by trolls giving their hotels and restaurants good reviews so you can't really trust them, Spain is different (I can't imagine a Spaniard doing that, they rarely answer the phone when you call their business, too busy enjoying their wonderful lifestyle I guess).

Sorry for entering the debate on Rick Steves. If you're looking for a good Spain guidebook, I still recommend Fodor's 2011.

I'll provide some advice about accommodations in Spain. We've really enjoyed staying at hostales and pensiones. The rooms are often basic, but they're clean, safe, and offer excellent value. For our upcoming trip, we've had good luck finding rooms at travellerspoint.com. It's an excellent resource.

I spent a few days in Madrid last fall by myself. It was lots of fun and I didn't feel unsafe at all. Pickpockets seem to be the biggest threat - so keep your things close and keep an eye out.

Spainards eat dinner late, so there will be plenty of people out in the late evenings.