Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report Incredible, Impeccable Ireland...first trip to the Emerald Isle

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)

- Europe (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/)

- - Incredible, Impeccable Ireland...first trip to the Emerald Isle (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/incredible-impeccable-ireland-first-trip-to-the-emerald-isle-1702194/)

Thank you for the pictures more than ever today. The coastline with mountains, so beautiful. Sorry about that dinner and onions on a toastie.

The Dingle Peninsula is a spectacular part of Ireland and your photos took us back to our lovely days spent there. Thanks for taking us along.

Haven’t been to Ireland, but enjoying your trip. Lovely photos.

Wonderful TR and pix. Continued thanks, denisea.

“The colors sprayed on the sheep had to do with what vaccinations they had.”

Maybe that would be a good idea for people who have had Covid vaccines and those who have not had any vaccines. A lot faster to identify them then asking for vaccine cards. LOL!

Road sign in Ireland…..be very careful! I think this was on the Connor Pass.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e832cfcb.jpeg

I am so looking forward to reading this. I am going in May.
Now circling back to the beginning...

Runaway wrap

I mentioned that my wrap liked The Mustard Seed so much that it stayed behind. I realized this the next morning when I couldn't find it. I sent an email to the hotel to inquire and I mentioned it to Mike when we met him out front. I mentioned that I may have left it in Mike #2's vehicle and one of the other drivers waiting with Mike immediately said "You better look on e-bay". There is a running banter going all the time; they are very quick witted! We all cracked up.

The restaurant had my wrap and Mike #2 picked it up and delivered it to the hotel for us. We were lucky to be walking out as he was handing it off to one of the valets, so we got to tank him. It saved us a lot of steps to retrieve it on our own.

Day 6 - Exploring the manor

This was day to stay on site. After the previous day, we were glad to move slow. No time frame except a 1:30 appointment for Falconry.

One activity for the trip was for Chaz to play golf at Adare Manor. The course will host the Ryder Cup in a few years, so playing was on the schedule. As the trip got closer, he had issues with his knee. He had meniscus repair last year and his knee never fully recovered. Lately, it would just give out. So there was a play or don't play dilemma. Some days it didn't bother him but some days it was a problem. The golf situation was even a bit more complicated as Mike invited Chaz to play with his friends locally. He really wanted to play with them as it would definitely have been great fun.

We had our fabulous breakfast (always with streaky bacon) and enjoyed having no where to be. The weather was beautiful and once we headed out we thought it might be good to try to hit some practice shots. First we wandered in the fairy garden. We then made our way to the brand new Padel Club. It is built in the woods and houses an indoor pool with whirlpools, steam and sauna, golf simulator, Padel courts, gym and yoga. He was able to hit balls and make a decision that playing 18 holes was a no go. We made a reservation to comeback the following day to enjoy the pool and steam room. This complex is is really beautiful and worth visiting. You can order food and drinks throughout, as well. We also made Chaz a spa appointment (there was only one available the next day and I was content to swim at the spa or read while he got a treatment.

We finally made our way to the Falconry. We have had one Falconry experience but only with hawks. We knew that they have a lot of raptors and we were hoping to work with the Eagle and at least one of the owls. Well, dreams came true! Our session included three owls, an eagle, two hawks and a falcon. We didn't get to do as much with all the birds as we had done previously but it was a great experience. The Eagle was incredible and all the birds are remarkable. We learned more about them and especially the differences between them. It really is fascinating and it's hard to pick a favorite . They all have different personalities. We were just so pleased to be exposed to so many different birds up close and personal. It's one of the reasons we chose Adare Manor because Falconry was a must do activity for this trip. And, hopefully it took the sting out of having to say no to playing golf. I know when that Ryder Cup rolls around, he'll be a little bummed that he didn't get to play the course...maybe next time. It began to spit rain during Falconry and we had rain a bit off and on the rest of the night.

Dinner was at a local pub, Pat Collins in Adare. Tonight I had a burger and he had the fish and chips--better than the previous night. Although I will say now that London wins my vote for fish and chips. They were just better there - crispier. Pat Collins is a nice old pub but decided to move along to Aunty Lena's after dinner. It was a completely different look and feel. We enjoyed it. It was nice just to do something casual and spend some time with locals in the pubs. Both spots had more locals than tourists. We decided to stop in the Drawing Room before turning in. It's a beautiful space and a great spot for an after dinner drink (or two) and we hadn't spent anytime there. They had a great wine list and we met a couple from Donegal there and we enjoyed chatting with them. It's one of the best thing about traveling.

It was a truly relaxing day and we were looking forward to our visit the next day to the Padel Club.

Next: Just push the red button, oops, wrong elevator, seventh heaven

Day 7 - Just push the red button, oops, wrong elevator, seventh heaven

Another day of leisure at Adare Manor for us. We enjoyed our breakfast and it was beautiful outside. We had plenty of time over breakfast before heading over to the Padel Club. We were both excited to be in a steam room again. I forgot to mention that I had chosen not to bring a swimsuit on the trip and when we were at the Padel Club the previous day for the golf simulator, I had to buy a suit. Unless it's a beach vacation, we don't usually hang out at the pool and the last time we were at a spa, the steam room was off limits because of COVID, so I thought I could get by without one. This was a pretty funny experience because I had to do this with a young man at the desk. They sell one style which was a pretty benign suit and would work for most women. However, the poor guy could tell me nothing about the sizes but was at least smart enough not to assume a size. He did his best but it was awkward. It's always odd for me to interact with a man when buying a bra or now a swimsuit. Fortunately, the suit was not expensive (which was a surprise).

We were taken into the changing area which is very nice and they have men, women and family changing areas. Everything you could need is available. The pool and wet area is so gorgeous. I have a video but can't post video on Fodor's. The pictures don't quite do it justice. It's modern and relaxing. There is a sauna and shower, steam room and shower and the pool has a huge spa/whirpool bench underwater that overlooks trees and the golf course. It's so beautiful and understated that we couldn't find the dang button to turn the jets on. "Just push the red button to turn the jets on"...couldn't find it anywhere.

There was another guest who came in while Chaz was in the steam room and she told me it is on the wall underwater. You can barely see it but duh, there it is! We had the area to ourselves most of the time and it was so nice to sit in a steam room again! I love steam. We left to move to the spa for his treatment and I was just gonna read by the spa pool (which is very plain compared to the Padel Room pool).

I decided to sit outside overlooking the river to enjoy the sun. I got a chance to watch some fishing while I waited. Once Chaz was done, we met and we were very close to our room and were told it would be ok to just step on the elevator and go up to our room. He wanted to just head back without changing back to street clothes as he wanted a quick shower. So, we followed her directions to get to the elevator pushed "3" and the door opened up....right outside the gallery/restaurant. Oops. The young lady who was at the door looked a little stunned and I am sure we did as we hurried back on the elevator to retrace our steps. Literally, we ended up on the other side of the hotel.

Cleaned up and ready for a little lunch, we decided to go back to the drawing room for a little sandwich. He got a ham and cheese toastie and I got an open faced roast beef with arugula and horseradish. Both were excellent and the drawing room is a great space. Our server was Irish but had lived in the US for quite some time and we had a nice chat with her.

We had no dinner plans and Chaz had a good idea to see if we could switch our reservation for the fine dining restaurant to later that night. The next day we would be out all day with Mike and we were relaxed and it would likely be a better night to go for a multi-course dinner. We were able to get in that night and he earned a nap. I headed over to the Augustinian Abbey across the road from the manor to snoop around since the day was so nice. I am not a napper (and barely sleep at home on a good day).

I was not able to get in the Abbey (despite a sign stating it is open to the public) but I was able to access a courtyard and it was still worth walking over. Next---pre-packing....tomorrow would be the last night at the Manor. We'd be out all day so we figured we needed to pack up a bit before heading back to Dublin. We wanted to leave early the next day and had a medic coming at 8am to collect our COVID test sample for our re-entry requirement back to the US. No time like the present start packing and leave our gorgeous surrounding....sigh.

Nap - done; packing - done; whisky tasting---still not done. We went back to The Tack Room for some Irish Whisky. The bartender there is quite knowledgable and they have quite a collection of whisky. You can spend thousands on a whisky tasting which we did not. I was given a Midleton Reserve Blended Rare Whisky. Chaz got Midleton Adare Manor very rare whisky to try. We both enjoyed our whisky. The other bar patrons, not so much. Pet peeve - use your indoor voice in a confined area. Trust me, none of us are interested in all the places you've been, Wall Street, the yacht your were on...etc....hedge fund guys from NYC/NJ. My favorite was when a new guy arrived to join and they wanted to show him the golf course and they all were heading out the door with their drinks and one of them asked if they could take their drinks and the biggest blowhard said "We can do whatever we want". Seriously, rolling my eyes and shaking my head and them.

Thankfully, it was time for us to head up the Oak Room for dinner.

It's a beautiful space and we sat near one of the windows overlooking the gardens. We went with the seven course dinner (Signature menu) with wine pairings. I will say that the food was truly spectacular but honestly, the wine pairings were even more impressive. I HATED not being able to finish them all.

I was a little shocked to see a couple bring in their 10 year old with them. I appreciate parents wanting their children to be exposed to different foods and grown up situations. I just don't think a meal that will take 3 hours plus is a great experience for someone that young. The whining started early and I can understand that...there is nothing in the restaurant for a a child that young (even with the iPad they brought to occupy her). Honestly, the parents were more disruptive than the child as they tried to keep her quiet. (Naturally they were the closest patrons to us). We were there well over 4 hours and while they did leave before us, it wasn't by much. I do understand that many hotels are not offering babysitting services because of COVID but I just don't think that level of experience is suited for kids that young and it's certainly not fun for them. That said, it was a top notch experience in terms of food, service and wine. We opted out of the special birthday dessert they had and the petit fours after our cheese course and they kindly boxed it all beautifully and sent it with us.

The menu with wine pairings:

Snacks (goat cheese filled gougere, an oyster with cucumber and little chicken liver tart) --we had Taittinger Rose--not part of the tasting menu
Bread and butter and it was delicious. I love my bread and butter and still wish I had stolen the beautiful hinged oyster shell salt cellar.

Beetroot watercress and frozen horseradish (this is a signature dish and was our favorite)
Keller, Vand der Fells Reisling. Rheinhessen Germany 2020

Doonbeg crab, potato citrus and Oscietra Royal Caviar
Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Bianco, Sicily Italy 2020 (my favorite wine)

Duck liver terrine, Sauternes, chamomile tea, brioche
Folias de Baco Uivo Mucatel Galega Branco, Duoro Portugal 2020

BBQ Turbot fennel boilllabaisse razor clams
Bruna Clair, Marsannay Source des Roches Burgundy, Fance 2017

Higgins aged Beef, oxtail celeriac black truffle jus
R Lopez de Heredia, Vina Tondania Reserva, DOCA Rioja Spain 2008

Valhrona 65% chocolate passion fruit
Camin Larredya, Au Capceu, Jurancon France 2018

Artisan cheeses
Nieport 10 year old Tawny Port Portugal

This experience really was seven courses plus of heaven. Wonderful dinner.

We were really full, tired and somehow not drunk after all that but it was definitely time to go to bed. We left with a ton of little treats.

Next: Ring of Kerry, Kilarney and Muckross Gardens

Here’s a link to poster’s own birthday trip:

https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...itans-1072484/

Amazing writing on each one!

Wow! Those owls and falcons are amazing!

That 7 course dinner in Adare sounds like it would rival anything elsewhere in the world.
Ireland is not just roast lamb or fish ‘n chips that’s for sure,

nyse - that's very kind of you! My birthday trip was truly everything I could have wished for - so writing about it was pretty effortless. I'm so glad that my husband's trip turned out so well for him. Very different countries but wonderful experiences. After the time we were unable to travel due to COVID, we are so grateful for the privilege of travel again. The Irish were so welcoming.

TPAYT - I wish I could remember all the info regarding the birds....they are "engineering" marvels. Totally correct on the Oak Room dinner. Ireland does not lag behind in dining and we could have had that meal in Paris, NYC or any other culinary hotspot. I believe the Oak Room has at least Michelin star (if not more).

Lots of sheep in Ireland. A lovely memory…….

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01aa5791b.jpeg

Great TR. Wonderful,people,to,be traveling again. Havent been to Ireland but its on my list.

Ring of Kerry, Killarney and Muckross Gardens

Our last day of day tripping with Mike. We had some extra "work" to do before we could get on the road...time for our COVID test. We went the room service route again to feel less hurried about breakfast and our medic from Rocdoc agreed to come at 8am so we could get out early. This is the way to get testing done if you are not in a major city and without transportation. I wanted a PCR test to lessen the chance of a false positive result. Getting the sample collected was very quick and only mildly "annoying". The medic spent more time setting up than it took to get both our samples. We had a "group" account set up on their site and our results would be back that night. And that's when my annoying scratchy throat from allergies started making me a bit nervous. I mean, what if one of us is positive? I'd love to stay in that room forever but definitely can't afford to stay another 5-14 days.

Pre-packed; sample collected and we were off to the Ring of Kerry.

We had beautiful weather that day. I had not originally planned to go to the Ring of Kerry. So many people say it's far more crowded than Slea Head Dive/Dingle Peninsula and not as scenic. We definitely benefitted throughout the trip fro fewer tourists due to COVID and to traveling during shoulder season. For us, the Ring of Kerry was spectacular and in no way a let down after Dingle Peninsula. Having Killarney, Torc waterfall and Muckross Gardens to see at the end just adds to the experience. I can't tell you the names of the towns because I just hadn't researched and did not take notes during the day. I know we had lunch in Sneem which is a lovely little town and we sat outside for our sandwiches. We stopped in a Cahersiveen early in the trip to see a church that I believe may be the only Catholic church in Ireland named for a lay person (Daniel O'Connell) . We didn't stay long as a service was in progress. Additionally, Monsignor Hugh O'Flaherty is buried there and he was a source of angst for the Gestapo as he is credited with saving over 6500 Allied soldiers and Jews from the Germans...all explained by Mike. We also were grateful to be allowed into a little spot to use the restrooms despite the sign on the door saying they are for customers only. Thanks God for small favors as my diet coke had really kicked in and Mike's favorite stop there was not open that day. We ended getting a take away coffee and another diet coke for the road anyway...just sayin'. Mike went to another bakery and got some items to take home to his family (and he is lucky I didn't dig into the bread during the day).

As expected, Mike knew wonderful places to stop for more amazing views and photos. He often would pass up the main stops for a better a minute or two away that no one else would be parked at. I know why Ring of Kerry is so well known. We did have a little better weather that day and I can't choose a favorite between Slea Head drive/Dingle and Ring of Kerry. They both provide stunning vistas and tons of "wish you were here" postcard photos.

We met an Irish couple at a stop beside a gorgeous lake having a picnic and they are lovely to chat with and also nice about us busting in on their picnic. At one point, we had considered visiting a sheep farm to watch the dogs hers and work. We decided that as much as we would like to see that, we would skip it on this trip ---just not enough time. We have had Shelties and they all herd naturally. Our dog Missy has always been very agile and would have been a great farm dog --even now with kidney failure and what seems like puppy parkinsons, she still likes to run.

When we planned this trip we were considering staying at Sheen Falls Lodge outside Kenmare. Mike took us over to see the hotel for future reference and Kenmare seemed like a great spot. It was quite busy but seems to offer a lot in terms of shopping and restaurants. I'd definitely like to go back one day.

As we got to Killarney National Park, we continued to be dazzled by the scenery. It's just beautiful Mike told us about a boat trip from Muckross to Dinis---another activity for another time but it sounds great. We made our way to Torc waterfall which is so worth a visit. We had good water flow and it's so beautiful. I love the sound of a waterfall. Torc is one of those places where you can't stop taking pictures and the rocks and fallen trees are covered with moss. It so relaxing being there and there were not many people there while we were there. I imagine weekends are packed-especially in summer.

From there, it was a short drive to Muckross House. We only planned to visit the gardens as the day was so nice and touring the home just wan't that important to us. The gardens were lovely and we learned the jaunting car drivers hate the chauffeurs because they think they take work from them. Interesting as hiring a horse/buggy is just not something I'm interested in. This goes for me everywhere- I have never gotten on a carriage or any other similar tourist ride at Central Park, Charleston, New Orleans etc....not my thing and they horse diaper and smell is a no go. Anyway, the grounds there are worth a visit and the gardens are free. It was definitely a good way to end the day.

We headed back to Adare in a bit of traffic in Killarney. We had Mike just drop us at Sean Collins pub for an early dinner rather than drop us at the manor. We sat outside in the back and met a little spoiled white fluff ball with a local gentlemen. Proof that people everywhere spoil their fur babies. Once "mom" got there she really doted on this pup and he is fully large and in charge at their house.

No surprise, we had a burger and fish and chips. Both very good. I think Chaz had a Guinness (at some point he had a Murphys as he usually prefers Murphy's but in Ireland he preferred the taste of draft Guinness. I had wine and we enjoyed this local spot.

We made it an early night. I soaked in my beautiful soaking tub one more time and finished packing for our return to Dublin before flying out on Saturday.

We had a spectacular time at Adare Manor and say terrific scenery. It would be hard to say goodbye to the manor and Mike but it was almost time to head home.

Next:Surprise celebrity, how did we miss this and Communists at College