In France Again
 

There is a certain type of Frenchman that many of us recognise, even people who have not yet made it to France, Start with the hairstyle: beautifully cut, so that it falls naturally into place at all times, and greying in a distinguished way. He wears a suit tailored to hang perfectly and never crease or rumple, His shoes are elegant, perfectly burnished and never scuffed or mud-spattered.

Except...

On holidays he wears a stylish Lacoste "pull" in shades of navy and grey, Move down, and see that he is wearing cherry-pink bermudas, and his feet are shod in day-glo yellow flip-flops.

The French are a different people when the take seaside holidays.

You had me blissfully thinking of the distinguished Frenchman...and then, UGH! Thanks for giving me a Monday afternoon chuckle. Wish you could've gotten a photo!

Yes, indeed, the French like to wear every item that they would never consider wearing at home. They are among the sloppiest tourists that I have seen around the world, which is always what makes me laugh when I see all of threads about people worrying about how to dress in France. People who dress this way when they are on holiday themselves will never worry about visitors who dress the same.

Can someone supply a link where I can order a pair of those day-glo yellow flip flops? We'll be in Paris in October, and I always follow Kerouac's advice.

We found him in Batz-sur-mer, not far from the very chic-et-cher resort of La Baule. We like to see how the other half (well, make it half of one percent) lives.

We got a €15 discount on our hotel room because it did not offer a sea view. I don't know what to call the grey-blue liquid stuff with boats sailing on it.

Now in Guérande, famous for its sea-salt. It has a nice "ville close" (walled town) that is overrun with tourists, most of them in September being French. According to the restaurateur who fed us well for modest money last night, the season here runs from March into November. That suits her, because she can make a living.

It's bucketing rain right now, so we may scrap the plan to take a boat trip in the Briere Natural Park. Pity: I was looking forward to it, because it is a magical place.

"Can someone supply a link where I can order a pair of those day-glo yellow flip flops? We'll be in Paris in October, and I always follow Kerouac's advice."
October weather won't be hot enough to wear flip flops but I would have loved to see you wearing them! Just a quick day trip to Dijon to show me (and check our brand new tramway) ;)

Padraig, fortunately the French tourists will be back to work soon! Have fun!

Padraig, I've always loved your style. I hope we get to hear more about your trip.

Nukesafe, I will be in Paris from October 20 to 27. If you'd like to meet for a drink, I could easily be persuaded.

Ernie

Yes, Padraig, tell us more. I'm a long-time fan of yours, dating from your days on the Usenet Europe newsgroup.

Here in the Dordogne, all the French tourists appear to have been dressed by medieval beggars. But we're a universe away from La Baule.

When there is rain, or a prospect of it, it is a good idea to do your tourism in a place with some roofed buildings. So we headed for La Roche Bernard, a famously pretty village where we spent a pleasant hour or so about twenty years ago (and where we purchased a fruit bowl that still pleases us).

The morning rain stopped and never returned; we could have done the La Briere trip. But we managed to spend a most enjoyable day at La Roche Bernard, seeing far more than we saw last time, and we took a boat trip on the Vilaine. I was reminded yet again that I want to hire a boat in France and explore the Brittany navigations.

Tomorrow we move on. Somewhat capriciously, we have booked into a hotel at La Roche sur Yonn, a place we have never been before. It claims to have Wifi, so I may be able to tell you how we get on.

AnselmAdorne, I would consider it an honor to have a drink (or two) with you. I followed your stunning post " -- I fear'd to set my foot on a dead man's cheek", and your other posts with reverence --- fine writing, IMHO. http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ern-france.cfm

Unfortunately, we will only be in France from October 1st to the 16th. Perhaps another time, Ernie.

Dick

Oh Coco, the tramway is now in service? I must come for a visit!

So we are in La Roche sur Yonn. I now know why it is not on the tourist trail for many: it's nothing out of the ordinary. Happily for us, the ordinary in France suits us very well; we like to ramble around and get an impression of everyday life in French communities.

We used an hour or more sitting on the terrasse of the Grand Café watching the world and solving most of a cryptic crossword that Herself found in her bag.

First item on tomorrow's agenda is to find a laundromat. We have been in France a week already, but I was not reporting here because the first part of our trip involved seeing friends, and that is not the stuff of travel writing.

Some years ago I heard a joke that reflected reality very well:
- Why do they have zebra crossings in France?
- So the ambulance drivers can know where to find the injured.

That has changed spectacularly. French drivers for the most part now respect zebra crossings very well, to the extent that if you are on the pavement near a crossing they may stop and order you to cross.

So far on this trip, four exceptions. One was a man in a white van - that's the nature of the beast. The other three were all women.

I don't know what that tells us about the human race.

The schools in France are not long back in session after the summer break. They call the return the "rentrée scolaire". There is a lycée (senior second-level school) just opposite our hotel, and there is another about 1km away in the centre of the town. Our afternoon peregrination took us from the neighbourhood of one to the neighbourhood of the other, a route also traversed by many lycéens in one direction or the other.

The air here is thick with pheromones.

"The air here is thick with pheromones."

The lycéens of Uzès added marijuana to the air about their heads. I failed to detect the pheromones, although they were doubtless there.

nukesafe, I am so sorry it will not happen. As you say, perhaps some other time our paths will cross.

I had written for you a detailed report about our morning doing the laundry, followed by our taking a look at another seaside resort (Les Sables d'Olonne) and then our not getting in to see the stained glass in Lucon Cathedral because of a funeral service.

Then the computer decided to reset itself, and my writings are lost forever. You'll never know what you missed.

Padraig, that is so frustrating! :(

Kerouac I'd be happy to show you around, you're welcome anytime!

I actually like hearing about the visiting with friends and/or family on a trip. It can be the best part of a trip (particularly for the former class ;-)). But I may be in the minority.

Thanks for posting, Padraig. I'm enjoying this. Bummer that we missed a good laundry story, lol.

You're lucky you even got online. We had to go to the local campground to get wifi, which was eminently unpredictable, and spend lots of euros for demi-pressions while there. And every day the settings to get hooked up seemed to change. La caprice is a hallmark of traveling in rural France. You gotta be adaptable and lower expectations.

I agree that French drivers have mellowed over the years. We made a couple of monumentally stupid moves today driving through La Rochelle, and nobody honked or spat or waved a fist.