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butnotrmpt Nov 15th, 2007 07:42 PM

I'm ready for hotel advice
 
After much angst, I have settled on a basic 3 city format for my first ever trip to Italy. We are going in the first half of April, 13 nights not including the travel night, flying into Venice, then train to Florence (at least one day of side trip out of city - maybe 2), then train to Rome and home from there. One of the 3 cities will get an extra night - not sure which one yet. Now I am ready for hotel advice. My thoughts on this are:
We want to be in a central area, so that we can walk to most sites, return to the hotel mid afternoon for a rest if needed, and so that I feel comfortable going out on my own if my DH chooses to crash and I'm still looking to get out more. We have no interest in being near the 'good' shopping areas, but definitely do want to be near (or have easy access to) excellent, reasonably priced, non-touristy restaurants. We have no interest in the 'see and be seen' crowd. But I am not really clear on what would constitute 'central' - for example, for Rome, I've seen recommendations for Trastavere, near the Collosseum, and by the Pantheon.

I've read multiple reader reviews on Tripadvisor and Venere, and I find that I am most drawn to the small hotels and B&Bs, with their helpful families and staffs. I am not against larger places, but I want to avoid impersonal hotels with rude staff, and queues to speak with a lone concierge. I want front desk staff or owners who can help me with my reservations for sites and restaurants, tour guides, etc. I am not allergic to stairs. :-)

I know rooms will be small - and we are not claustrophobic, but I would like to avoid some of the teeny tiny rooms that I've seen pictured.

A really good breakfast would be a plus.

Price point - I'd love to stay at or under $300 per night. I would be willing to stretch that for something exceptional in one city (Locanda Orseolo in Venice maybe - they have their lowest priced room available at 230E) but would prefer to find places we can afford.

Places that intrigue me: in Venice - Locanda Orseolo and Antiche Figure - but both are closer to $400; in Florence - Hotel Davanzati, Residenza Il Villino (both might not have rooms available), Il Guelfo Bianco, and Hotel Europa; In Rome - Residenza Cellini, Hotel Lancelot (I love the idea of eating there, though I wouldn't take the half board for every night), Fellini B&B, Residenza Canali.

Too lengthy a post, I know, but I hope this way you all can weigh in with recommendations that fit my needs and wants and pocketbook. If you think that I am asking for too much for my $300 limit, let me know. Originally, after speaking with a local travel agent, I was thinking $400, but I'd really like to save that extra $1000 for tour guides in the cities and in Tuscany outside of Florence.

I would appreciate it if you would tell me why you think a recommended hotel is a good choice, and what neighborhood it is in, if possible.

THANKS to all who offer up advice.





BarbaraS Nov 15th, 2007 08:22 PM

I have planned a similar trip for May 2008. We seem to have similar tastes in hotels, as I have made reservations to stay at Locanda Orseolo, which is a splurge for me as well. I figure the cost at the current exchange rate is $350. Hopefully, it will improve by May and not get worse!

I contacted Residenza Il Villino for reservations in May 2008 and was told they were not booking for May 2008 until after the first of the year. I would assume April may be a similar situation.

In Rome I've chosen http://www.htlsantamaria.com/english/index.htm, in Trastavere which would fit into your budget.

I haven't stayed at any of the hotels, but did do a lot of research and they all seem to get very good reviews.


vincenzod Nov 15th, 2007 11:09 PM

Maybe a good choice in Florence could be the B&B "RELAIS IL CAMPANILE" in the full center of the town and not expensive. Look at its website: www.relaiscampanile.it .
In Rome a good solution, maybe, could be the apartment CASA LEONARDO, very close to Vaticano. They define themselves as a B&B but it is not true because there is no Breakfast in the morning but there is a nice kitchen corner and several good tools so that you can prepare your Breakfast as you like.
Anyway, look at its website: www.arcobalenobb.it and then click on CASA LEONARDO.
Still in Rome, good solution can be HOTEL MADRID, in the center of Rome, very close to Piazza di Spagna: www.hotelmadridroma.com .
Last but not least, my suggestion is IL CASTELLETTO, close to Aurelia and Vatican: very nice and really not expensive: www.il-castelletto.com .
Have a lovely trip, ciao.

Vincenzo


ira Nov 16th, 2007 04:51 AM

Hi but,

If you enter <hotel AND (city name)> in the "search this forum" box, you will get lots of advice.

((I))

Attnymom Nov 16th, 2007 05:32 AM

In Florence, you might check out the hotel Tornabuoni Beacci. We stayed there a few years ago (found it on Venere.com) and were very pleased. It is a lovely hotel in a great location, and I believe it fits your budget. Funny side note - as we were checking in, I was looking at the guest book, and a couple that we know from our home town had just checked out and signed the guest book! Apparently, we missed them by just a few minutes. They have a daughter who lives in Florence, so we took that as a good sign - if their daughter recommended they stay there, then it is probably a good hotel choice!

hausfrau Nov 16th, 2007 05:53 AM

I can only help with Rome, but I feel pretty strongly that for your first visit (to my favorite city in the world, by the way), you should be in the Pantheon/Navonna area. I've been to Rome twice in the past year and both times stayed in this area. It is right in the thick of things and there are literally hundreds of restaurants (in every category and price range) within 10-15 minutes' walk. I can strongly recommend Residenza Canali, which is literally a stone's throw from Piazza Navonna (and yet on a quiet and lovely street). You can read my review on Trip Advisor here:
http://tinyurl.com/ywvw54

While I know many people have their favorite hotel in Trastavere or one of the other less-touristy neighborhoods, and staying off the beaten path certainly has its advantages, you will be able to walk to more sights and spend more time "doing" if you stay in a more central area.

Samsaf Nov 16th, 2007 06:10 AM

We've stayed at the Residenza Canali and will definitely return there again. It's in a very central location, it's small, very clean, and we loved it!

suze Nov 16th, 2007 06:59 AM

www.lacalcina.com in Venice is lovely and well within your price range even for a view room.

suze Nov 16th, 2007 06:59 AM

oops, and they have a very nice breakfast included in the room price. See many other threads here on Fodor's, it's a very popular hotel.

Travelnut Nov 16th, 2007 07:16 AM

In Venice we stayed in Dorsoduro by the Ca' Rezzonico museum, about 50 meters from the vaporetto stop by the same name. The hotel was <u>Locanda San Barnaba</u> on Calle Traghetto. It was a very quiet place, very lovely with a 1st floor salon, marble staircases, sweet patio with umbrella tables and a private boat 'dock'. I would happily stay there again - the gentlemen at the desk was very charming and enjoyed talking with the guests, and he also ran the bar and espresso machine. There is no elevator but the staff will carry your bags up. There were a number of good restaurants within a 10-minute walk yet hardly any 'tourist' traffic in the immediate area. Our rooms were the 'classic' doubles for 170euro (one with double bed, one with twin beds - we were 2 couples).

http://www.locanda-sanbarnaba.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...ce_Veneto.html
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/hotels...mp;s=dorsoduro

In Rome we stayed on via del Tritone at <u>Residenza Antica Roma</u>, very beautifully decorated, every floor with a 'parlor' area where you could gather, chat, plan.. This hotel does have a tiny but functional elevator and an excellent breakfast room with 'do-it-yourself' coffee machine (I liked one shot espresso + one cappucino in my cup). We used the city buses that ran along via del Tritone or a couple blocks down at the San Silvestro square. We walked as far as the Colosseum, Piazza Navona, and Piazza del Popolo from this hotel. I would happily stay here again as well. Our rooms were 170euro for one double room and one twin room.

http://www.residenza-anticaroma.com/
http://www.residenza-anticaroma.com/en_index.html
http://rome-hotels.tripadvisor.com/H...ome_Lazio.html
http://www.romeby.com/anticaroma/index.html

In both cases, we booked directly with the hotel. They were amenable to a 10euro discount for cash payment at checkout.

Royal Nov 16th, 2007 07:18 AM

We stayed at Hotel Lancelot in September 2006 and really liked everything about the hotel. As you mentioned it is a family run hotel and the service is excellent.

We had the 1 bedroom suite on the top floor which has a private terrace and it was lovely. Really enjoyed the &quot;round table&quot; dining as we met many interesting people.

We liked the location and there were many neighbourhood restaurants close by. Previously we stayed near Piazza Navona which is a popular area but we liked this one equally.

In Florence we stayed at B&amp;B in Piazza della Signoria a beautifully restored former palazzo which is in the best location right on the piazza della Signoria. Lovely, helpful family owners and the rooms and bathrooms are luxurious. Prices 200-260 euros include a great breakfast. Highly recommend this place. www.inpiazzadellasignoria.com.

We always stay at La Calcina in Venice - love everything about this hotel and its location.

Good luck with your decision.

adventureseeker Nov 16th, 2007 07:26 AM

butnotrmpt,

<b>VENICE</b>
You will get your money's worth and a fantastic experience if you choose Locanda Orseolo.

We just returned from our first trip to Italy a few weeks ago and LO was a highlight of our trip.... yes, all the hype is true.

It was also a splurge for us at 4 nights, but the gracious staff, sumptuous breakfasts (BEST in our 19 days in Italy....made to order eggs and crepes, breakfast meats, hot grilled veggies), Venetian flair and excellent location (near to everything, but tucked in a very quiet courtyard on a small canal)made it <b>worth every Euro</b>. We stayed in the 250Euro room which was spacious and had a decent sized bathroom. Their lower priced rooms are smaller, but you will still get the LO experience. The staff couldn't have been more helpful or gracious with recommendations and bookings. We booked our tour and restaurant reservations via email prior to our trip through Locanda O (Secret Itineraries, Vini da Gigio and Acqua Pazza).

I booked LO nearly a year before our trip since it books up fast. I had very high standards and expectations and they exceeded them all. This place consistently gets return guests...and we will be one of them.

La Calcina was another inn we considered. We found it's location on one of our walks. It's not very centrally located, but is on a nice promenade (Zattare).

<b>FLORENCE<b>: We stayed at Residenzia Il Villino for a bargain price of 130Euro a night and it was very clean, nicely decorated and Sergio the host was a charm. The 130E made it possible for us to splurge at Locanda O in Venice. The location is on a quiet street, but near the Accademia and a few blocks to the Duomo. I'd definitely recommend it.

Since this was our first trip, I researched extensively and was extremely happy with all our choices. I also used Tripadvisor.com which was another excellent planning tool.

Good Luck!
</b></b>

adventureseeker Nov 16th, 2007 07:31 AM

butnotrmpt,

A suggestion: Since Locanda Orseolo only requires a credit card (with no deposit) to hold a room, I HIGHLY recommend booking a room for your stay (if it is still a consideration) <b>while you are still deciding.</b> This way you know that a room is available. They only have 15 rooms, believe me they book up fast and turn away alot of travelers.

BarbaraJ Nov 16th, 2007 09:17 AM

For Rome, we highly recommend B&amp;B Fellini. We've stayed there both times in Rome, the last in the beginning of October. It was even nice this time than three years ago. I would recommend getting the apartment with the terrace. It's not much more in price and the terrace is about 4X the size of the room.

In Florence, we stayed at Dei Mori B&amp;B. It was our first time staying there and we did so on recommendations from this site. It was only 120 euros a night, centrally located, but on a small side street and the owners were very helpful and nice. The only drawback is that it is one the second floor (third floor, if in the US) and no elevator.

butnotrmpt Nov 16th, 2007 05:21 PM

Thanks to all, for the new suggestions and the reaffirmation of the places I had already expressed interest in. Is anyone familiar with staying at the top of the Spanish Steps in Rome? The travel agent who I thought I was going to work with insists that the Intercontinental De La Ville, which is located on Via Sistina, is in THE best location for a Rome tourist. I am not convinced. I know she can put me in a suite there for approx $400, which is the cost of a low end room, but I am concerned that the area it is in will make it difficult to get back to for a siesta break (she says there is an elevator if we want to avoid the steps), the surrounding restaurants might be more expensive given the upscale shopping up there, and of course it is above my price point and is a much larger place that I had been looking at. Any feedback would be appreciated.

tuscanlifeedit Nov 16th, 2007 08:27 PM

I'm sure the Intercontinental de la Ville is a nice hotel, but it doesn't seem at all to be what you are looking for. And it is above your price. Don't let the TA talk you into something you don't really want.

Personally, for that money I would not stay in that location.

Everyone here has favorites in the Navona/Pantheon area. My first choice would be the Hotel Portoghesi. I like that location a zillion times better than the de la Ville.

You know, I think la Calcina would be great. The Zattere is one of my favorite spots in Venice; it is just so beautiful. And really, any place in Venice is hard enough to get to for a nap. At least lots of sights and destinations are within a fairly easy walk of la Calcina. I have not stayed there, but would.

I haven't stayed in a hotel in Florence in years, as we used an apartment for the last 4 visits. Sorry I can't help there.


hopscotch Nov 16th, 2007 11:46 PM


butnotrmpt,

Congratulations on one of the best requests I have ever seen on Fodors. Your specifications are exact. I have been to each of your cities but I am not in your price range.


annhig Nov 17th, 2007 01:51 AM

Hi, butnot,

I'm going to throw a spoke in your wheel.

I strongly advise that you don't spend all your 13 nights in cities. you will see a lot of art [most of which will merge into one] and meet a lot of tourists, but you won't see much of the real italy or italians.

I would keep Venice and Rome, but in between, find a small town or even agrotourismo in tuscany, and stay there. relax, walk, hire bikes, taste local wines. then you will be refreshed for Rome. if you can do a day trip to Florence, so much the better.

you have plenty of time to organise this. if it makes you feel more secure, as a fall-back book a hotel in Florence with a good cancellation policy, and then see what else you can find.

regards, ann

SusanP Nov 17th, 2007 07:52 AM

For Rome, I have to strongly disagree that near the Vatican is a good location. Having stayed in Rome 30 days over the past two years, I have to say that for what you say you want, the Piazza Navona/Pantheon area is definitely where you want to be. Right in the center, dozens of good restaurants, walking distance to a lot, lots of good bus connections.

I would not recommend an apartment, since you want the services of a concierge or desk clerk for help.

Did you read your other threads? I pointed out there that your travel agent is also not correct saying that the top of the Spanish Steps is the best place to stay. In addition to not being as close to the center, you'll have to walk up all those steps at the end of every day, when you're likely to be tired from walking all day!

SusanP Nov 17th, 2007 08:03 AM

OK, I didn't see the part about an elevator to avoid the Spanish Steps. I still wouldn't want to stay there, but just out of curiosity, where is this elevator?

BigBlueMarble Nov 17th, 2007 09:20 AM

Venice: Locanda Orseolo - can't beat the service for the price.

Florence: Another vote for Residenza Il Villino. This place is VERY popular so book ASAP.

Rome: Nicolas Inn. Superb hosts.

Cindywho Nov 17th, 2007 10:54 AM

Adventure seeker, I keep hoping to see a trip report...?...?...

Cindy

adventureseeker Nov 17th, 2007 11:56 AM

Hi Cindywho...

I'm working on that trip report and sorting through 2000+ photos.

My goal is to have it done by next week.

How's your trip planning coming?

butnotrmpt Nov 18th, 2007 08:31 AM

to annhig - I also like the idea of staying outside Florence for a few days, but my husband is dead set against renting a car, and the logistics of doing this without a car seem difficult. But I don't want to give up Florence to do it - instead, I would stay one day less in Florence, and add my 13 th night (previously unassigned) for 2 nights in Tuscany or Umbria. This is a totally different area of planning, and I know nothing yet about transportation other than the trains between the major cities. I'm open to it though. Another issue though is that I was trying to keep this trip simple for DH, who does not have the same enthusiasm for travel as I do (although - he does seem to be perking up a little).

to SusanP - I have been reading all my responses thoroughly, including those about the travel agent. My questions do sometimes overlap previous responses, but they have brought me much added info each time. I am getting very leary of using the travel agent, especially after my last conversation when I expressed my preference to small hotels and B&amp;Bs that are solicitous of their guests. She responded that those places are in the countryside but I won't find them in the major cities. Red flags went up all over, since there are so many of them and I found them so easily. I think she has very nice places where she gets her clients good rooms and service, and she doesn't seem open to other places. I'm very disappointed, because I wanted to use her, not so much for the hotels, but for organizing my days, my tours, my trains, etc. I may just consult with Bob the Navigator after all.

To everyone - you have all been helpful. In Rome, I was leaning toward Hotel Lancelot, which is closer to the Colosseum, because I like the dinner option. I know that would mean a trek to the Vatican area, but other than that, is it a good location? Or should I instead choose a place by Piazza Navona? And can anyone tell me the best way to map out my potential hotel choices to see where they are in relation to the places I want to see in each city?

Anyway - please keep it coming. I can't believe I have gone from planning to take a tour to planning my own trip, which I said at the start of my posts that I would never do. Thanks to all for making it possible.

suze Nov 18th, 2007 08:35 AM

Congratulations! And sounds like you will have a much nicer trip for your efforts. Welcome to the club
;-)

SusanP Nov 18th, 2007 08:42 AM

I think you're smart to question the travel agent. Unfortunately, they are only interested in booking hotels that give them a commission, which the smaller B&amp;B's and family-run hotels won't do.

When you say you are considering Hotel Lancelot because of the dinner, do you mean you would get half or full board and eat dinner there every night? Please don't do this! There are so many wonderful restaurants in Rome, it would be a shame to eat at your hotel every night. Plus, I would still choose the Piazza Navona area, just my opinion.

Go to Barnes &amp; Noble or Borders and buy a Streetwise Rome map. (Actually, get one for Florence and Venice as well.) Then you can see where things are located and get a better idea of where you want your hotel to be located.

MaureenB Nov 18th, 2007 08:51 AM

With 13 nights, and your first trip to Italy, I would stay with Rome, Florence, Venice, for the most part. But for your final two nights, you could go to the Cinque Terre or thereabouts. We loved Santa Margherita Ligure, a small- to mid-sized town with a pleasant harbor and plenty of restaurants, markets and shops to make it a good home base. From there, we day-tripped to both the Cinque Terre and Portofino. Highly recommend Cinque Terre! (You can do all this by train.)

I think you're wise to question and/or dump your travel agent. This forum will provide all the advice you need, and from people with nothing to gain by recommending a hotel.

We stayed in the Spanish Steps area, which we were happy with. But you don't need to break your budget to find a nice hotel in Rome.
:)&gt;-

Royal Nov 18th, 2007 09:59 AM

Agree with the others that you should forget the travel agent she obviously is not listening to what you want.

Re the Hotel Lancelot and its area the only time we took a taxi was the morning we went to the Vatican as we had early tickets for the Scavi tour. We meandered back on foot later in the day. We like to walk so getting to all the sites on foot posed no problem for us.

As SusanP suggested don't eat all your meals there as there are many other good restaurants in the neighbourhood. However, do plan to eat at least one as it is a fun experience.

Do get a good mapbook and plot out your areas of interest as this will help you with your decision.



butnotrmpt Nov 18th, 2007 11:17 AM

Re eating at Hotel Lancelot - it was not my plan to eat there nightly, but rather to sample what sounded like a wonderful dinner and dinner experience at least once during our stay. Also, when we started talking about taking a trip, my husband was all for a tour with all dinners planned for the tour group. I refused to even consider that, anticipating huge touristy venues with steam table quality food. But it would be nice to give him the option of dinner at the hotel after an exhausting day of sightseeing, especially when so many people have commented about the good food on Tripadvisor.

annhig Nov 18th, 2007 01:56 PM

Hi again,

well, as you anticipate, touring tuscany without a car would be difficult.

one alternative would be to pick somewhere with bicycles to rent or good walking nearby - you could easily spend a couple of days like that, and then make for Florence. Alternatively, spend two nights in Florence and two in siena, which has a completely different atmosphere. [and a station for your onward trip to Roma].

Dare i ask why he's so against any driving? - just a few days in the countryside would be a good introduction, IMO.

regards, ann

LBev769375 Nov 18th, 2007 03:01 PM

Here are two more suggestions for hotels in Rome. The hotel Del Senato, located on Piazza della Rotonda with a terrific view of the Pantheon. Ask for a room with a view of the Pantheon. Great hotel in an excellent location within walking distance to almost any place you want to go. Even located on a major piazza, the rooms facing the Pantheon are quiet. The breakfast is OK, but nothing to write home about.
The Forum hotel, located across the highway from the Roman Forum, within easy walking distance of the sites that might be too far to walk to from the Del Senato. It has a breakfast to die for and a rooftop sunset view of the Roman Forum that brings joy and enlightment into the hearts of both the first time visitor and the grizzled historian. A room with a view of the Forums will be a little noisy, but you nothing you won't get used too. Have a great trip. Lee



buymeaticket Nov 18th, 2007 07:51 PM

Congrats on your 1st trip to Italy! My first to Italy(Rome/Florence/Venice)will be June2008. We picked areas of the cities first based on location to sites/activities and now we are picking hotels/B&amp;Bs/Convents.
Rome-Pantheon Area
Florence-Oltarno /Boboli Gardens
Venice-Dorsoduro /Guggenheim
The posts you are receiving are giving me info too so thanks and good luck!

Flame123 Nov 18th, 2007 10:51 PM

Butnot - I am sorry to throw yet another option into the pot but I cannot believe no one here has yet suggested the Hotel Casci in Florence. I have stayed there FIVE times to date and would never consider any other place in Florence.

It seems to fit your request exactly. This is a small B&amp;B of about 20-something rooms, run by a fabulous and most accomodating family I have ever met. They will literally bend over backwards to make sure your trip and visit is the best ever. (Check out the hundreds of reviews on tripadvisor).

The rooms are not luxurious by any means. BUT they are spotlessly clean, you can literally eat off the floors, it is centrally located (about 2 blocks from the Duomo and a block from Accademia), they have double or triple glazed windows so it is quiet. They are in a non-descript building with an elevator to the second floor.

Their breakfasts are huge and offer much more than the typical Italian fare (i.e. eggs, fruit, etc. along with the regular breads, cakes, toasts, spreads, etc.).

They have a computer for guests free use in the lobby, and offer free Wi-Fi in the rooms. I cannot recommend this place more highly!!!

hausfrau Nov 19th, 2007 12:20 AM

Good call on ditching the travel agent. Honestly, I think travel agents are good for lesser-known locations when the lodging options can be questionable, but for cities like Rome, Florence, and Venice you can do so much better doing your own research here and on Trip Advisor.

I'm still going to suggest that you stay closer to the Pantheon and Piazza Navonna. If you want to splurge, stay at the Albergo del Senato with a Pantheon-view room as another poster suggested. I was there for 6 nights over Christmas 2006 and it was spectacular. Even if you are tired at the end of the day, you literally have to walk 100 feet to get to a nice restaurant, whereas over near the Colloseum you don't have nearly as many choices.



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