I'm being brave - posting my first trip report - Amalfi Coast July 07
 

Hello all, I'm just back from my trip to the Amalfi Coast, staying at Conca Dei Marini. What can I say? What a fabulous place. I can see why it's so popular on this board. I know there are many Amalfi reports, but I have been spurred into action by reading all your wonderful reports which were so helpful in planning this one. Please be gentle with me as its my first try :-)

I'll start from the beginning, naturally - day of departure (two days after the terrorist attack on Glasgow) Bear with me (I may be some time!) ....

Day of Departure to Naples – Weds. 4th July

Got up very early at 2am. Due to recent terrorist attack at Glasgow, thought it best to get to Stansted, London as early as possible as we expect there will be even stricter controls through security. There is still the 100ml fluid restriction in place with checking shoes that goes through a separate x ray machine. Anyway, went nice and smoothly, and we left the UK with rain, cold and more flooding expected. We must have been quite a sight in the pouring rain with our straw sunhats and I was wearing cropped trousers and a t shirt! The flight left on time.

We landed at Napoli airport which was VERY busy and slow in getting checked in through security. We didn’t have any checked in luggage as we were determined to pack light, so proceeded to follow the signs for the buses, the bus for Station Centrale was easy to find (cost: 2 euros), albeit once we were on it was crammed to the gills (and very hot) with lots standing up. We didn’t forget to get our tickets stamped in the machine on the way in to validate the tickets – TRES important! It was only a short journey to Station Centrale/P Garibaldi but I think we must have got off at the wrong stop for the Circumvesuiviana train station, as we had to lug our small cases about three blocks to get to the station. (Maybe another seasoned Amalfi traveller can confirm the stop?) Never mind…. Bought our tickets to Sorrento which cost 6.40 each (from memory)

We are stopping on the way at Pompeii (Pompeii Scavi – Villa Del Misteri is the stop needed). We boarded the train in chaos and noise all around. The train reminded me of the London Tube and was COVERED in grafitti! Some of the windows were completely covered in it, so we made sure we sat on seats which had a graffiti-less view! I must say I was hoping for a more romantic way to get to Pompeii as it was our third Wedding Anniversary ;-) Anyway, the train was packed and busy, but got away bang on time around 11am.

We visited the Amalfi Coast is June. I'm not a trip reporter so I am looking forward to your report!!

Looking forward to your thoughts on Conca Dei Marini. We visit Sorrento and the AC every couple of summers and are always interested in new places to stay.

Great start so far!

Thank you! I loved Conca Dei Marini and personally don't think we could have chosen better.

POMPEII – Very easy to find the entrance to Pompeii, when you get off at Villa Del Misteri stop its just opposite, across the road. And what a great surprise! The entrance today was free, due to today being the Birthday of Garibaldi, saving 11 euros each. What luck! We deposited our small cases at the left luggage office and proceeded on our way. We were only armed with the map and guidebook that they provide. To be honest, this was only just a mooch about to absorb the atmosphere kind of visit. As we plan to return again sometime very soon, we will definitely pay for a guide, as the map/guidebook is very basic and the numbers don’t tally up with the buildings? All rather confusing…. Anyway what a joy to be here! I remember a programme I watched as a child and was fascinated by this place, and its amazing to walk the streets and just ‘be’ there. Not too busy on our arrival (about midday) but when we left about 3 hours later it was getting mobbed. Very hot, and no shade in the more open areas, so my umbrella came in handy. Take a hat and plenty of sun lotion. Best comment overheard today from a young American guy: ‘THAT is 2,000 years old? Im sorry, I just don’t buy it!!’ – I guess he was rather overwhelmed by the experience and sights! I must say some of the mosaics and murals are so well preserved it is hard to believe its so ancient I suppose.

Make sure you have water with you before you go in, or buy a couple of bottles from the very enterprising guys standing outside. The ice cold water they sold us was very welcome as we walked about in the heat. We hadnt had time to buy water as we had rushed straight here.

We stayed just over three hours and departed on the Circumvesuiviana on our way to Sorrento. We arrived at the Sorrento stop – both fast asleep and exhausted by this time! – the train had nearly emptied and we were both still sleeping soundly!! I hope we werent snoring. We planned to board a SITA bus to Conca. It was sitting right outside, and we bought two tickets from the Tabacchi next door to the station, which is very convenient as you need your tickets to board. It left ten minutes later. The driver was very helpful and said he would let us know when to get off. (SITA bus tickets cost 5 euros each and last for 24 hours from the time you validate them on your first trip) You store your luggage under the bus out of the way.

Well what can I say about the coastal ride on the Amalfi Coast. Breathtaking, gorgeous, fantastic – theres not enough words to express it – exhilerating to say the least, when the bus swerves around the hairpin bends and curves, with the sheer drops and ravines at your side! It was rather frightening on this our first trip, but I must say that after a few bus rides you get used to it, and put your trust in the driver and or God! It certainly cured myself and Mr EnglishOne of our vertigo problems!

I will never forget our first sight of the coast, it is beautiful and Ive fallen in love with the area, like many Fodorites!

Whoops sorry about the big gap at the top of this posting!

CONCA DEI MARINI – The helpful driver told us where to get off (we would have never known otherwise! There isnt actually a bus stop marked anywhere here!) You depart the bus outside the Belvedere Hotel. Our hotel, Le Terrazze, is next door, just a very short walk along the road. This is the website for the hotel:

http://www.hotelleterrazze.it/francais/index.htm

Unfortunately they haven’t got around to the English language version yet, but you get the idea! I found it easiest to try reading it in the French version.

This is a wonderful hotel in a location that, in our minds, cannot be bettered. We visited the other locations eg. Positano/Amalfi etc.. (later in the report) but were so glad to get home to our little hotel in this village as it was so so crowded in the other areas. We were looking for a peaceful location, and boy did we find what we were looking for. The view was absolutely breathtaking. The rooms spotless, lovely hot fast shower and fresh crisp towels. We got a good deal with this hotel too. We contacted them directly to enquire about a four night reservation. They offered us a reduction from the tariff and instead of paying 130 euros with full sea view we got it for 100 euros per night and increased our stay to five nights. And it was well worth the upgrade and if you get a deal like this, snap it up ;-) The balcony faces right over the sea, and in the morning if you are up very early (like 5.30am!) you can catch the sunrise and its beautiful. By 7.30 the balcony was very sunny and hot, but great to sit out on after a day out, it had cooled off and was just right.

If you have a family or enjoy a full nightlife this area is not for you. The village is virtually vertical (!) There are approx. 140 – 170 steps down to the beach (we lost count) and in the heat it can really take it out of you coming back up! The steps lead from the hotel down through the houses/buildings until it opens up to the pebble beach, which is very tiny with huge sheer cliffs encompassing it. There are three restaurants here. We only had time to crash out on the beach on the last day and space is really at a premium, so expect to almost share your parasol with your close neighbour! Its very ‘locally’ which we loved, with many local families taking their children here to rest, play and swim. There were a few American and British tourists too. The other part of the village, above the road, we tried to venture to one evening, but it was late, dark, and very tired climbing and we didn’t really know where to head for, so we will save that exploration for another trip.

The first night here, we tried the Hotel restaurant as we were very tired and needed to eat easily and get to bed. The restaurant served good food and the service was excellent; far above the 3 stars it is awarded. I had Leek and Potato soup to start, then Grilled Swordfish with a green salad finishing up with chocolate and choc chip icecream. It was all good. Only problem for me, I felt the atmosphere was lacking; it was one of those places you felt you had to whisper as it was very quiet! An early night ready for our day tomorrow to Amalfi Town and Ravello.

Thanks for being brave, love this report. It is so refreshing to see you went to one of the hotels that isn't raved about here on Fodors. People will realize that there are so many more options. Love your descriptions, more please!!

Superb so far!! We are visiting the AC next week so anticipating more tips from you. Very impressed that you took on Pompeii on arrival!

Ive been so nervous about posting my report so thanks for your support! I scribbled a few notes each day so am trying desparately to decipher them as I go along ;-)

AMALFI TOWN AND RAVELLO Thursday 5th July – SITA bus tickets can be purchased from our hotel reception but sometimes its closed to selling them? Just to make it easier we bought our tickets from the Belvedere reception instead which is where the stop is anyway. Short journey to Amalfi (with fab views of course!) We always managed to get a seat, by the way – except for Sunday which was so busy I would recommend staying near your hotel on Sundays as it’s the day when all the locals come out to play, causing general havoc on the roads! More on that later. The bus stops at the ‘bus station’ type area by the seafront. A short walk across the road will take you easily to the Duomo which is a glorious sight. Took many photos then decided on a cool drink before proceeding any further – its very busy outside the church, so we found the Old Square (Piazza Dogi) (next to the cafes opposite the church) which is a welcome shady little square. We recommend the thirst quenching fresh iced orange juice from the café to the right as you enter the little square.

Seeing as Mr EnglishOne is an industrial chemist at a paper mill he had a special interest in visiting the Museo della Carta (Papermaking museum!) Which is located further up the main street from the Duomo. Heres their website:

http://www.museodellacarta.it/Default.asp?l=2

Of course this isnt interesting to everyone, and could induce a fit of yawning in some! but even I enjoyed seeing the ancient machinery (hundreds of years old) which still works! They still produce fine paper, mainly for artists and wedding stationery and we bought an original little watercolour for 9 euros (depicting Amalfi). The museum was virtually empty so we had our own personal guided tour.

Back to the Duomo, we climbed the many steps, purchased our tickets and went inside. The Cloisters are particularly beautiful with a great opportunity to photograph the beautifully tiled campanile through the arches. I’m hoping that will come out well. We finished our tour and proceeded to the café opposite for a couple of cold beers and panini. (20 euros) It was filling and was an adequate lunch.

We walked back to the ‘bus station’ on the sea front – the bus to Ravello departed not from the main bus park but about 30 yards away (as you look towards Amalfi from the sea, the bus stop for Ravello is to your right) I had to help other hapless tourists who obviously wanted the Ravello bus and directed them to it…. Its not the most easiest or obvious bus station! Most of the time you have to wait for one of the drivers to change the destination notice on the front of the bus then just dive for it! Once again we managed to get seats and the ride up the mountain was sheer, but I found it no more frightening than the coastal ride. The views from Ravello are fantastic. Once you arrive walk through the tunnel from the bus and you are right there. Walk straight across the main square for great views across the ravine. We wanted to visit Villa Cimbrone which is well signposted from here and takes you around the pretty village on your way there. This is an attractive place, with English Rose gardens and lawns containing arbours covered with gorgeous wisteria, paths and statues leading to the top end of the garden (the belvedere). Its lined with marble busts and there is a very high and sheer drop from here! NOT for the faint hearted! My DH wasn’t prepared for the drop and happily walked out onto the balcony til he looked down! Very much a jelly-legs moment! But the views are well worth the wobbly legs. The bus back to Amalfi was very crowded. We decided that tonight we would just grab something on the move, so got take-away pizza and a couple of cakes, some prosecco. Got the bus back and just relaxed on our balcony and enjoyed the views. Supping wine and watching the stars turned out to be an excellent idea. :-)

More of my report tomorrow, its 9.15pm here and I need some dinner!

For a first time trip report EnglishOne it is not only charming and interesting but very informative!

As SeaUrchin I too love all of your descriptions of your activities and what you saw. A joyous trip obviously! I look forward to your next segment. Thank you for taking all the time to share your trip with us.

POSITANO – Friday July 6th

Caught the bus as usual from outside the Belvedere hotel for a jolly day at Positano. The bus stops at the top of the hill, with fantastic views of Positano below. The walk down the hill towards the town is a fantastic photo opportunity. Wandered through the charming narrow streets with little boutiques, all very lovely. At the bottom is the Marina Grande pebble beach, with the harbour to the right. Walked to the harbour area to find out about a future boat trip to Capri. Very simple, there are little kiosks where you purchase your tickets. Satisfied that we would be able to get a morning boat trip to the Island (10.55am and costing 11 euros or so) we proceed to the Cavo dei saraceni Café by the harbour for a very good coffee and people watch for half an hour or so, to take it all in. Our perception of Positano is that it is very charming, but rather overcrowded – maybe July isnt a good time to visit if you don’t enjoy crowds! and Ive never heard so many American accents outside the USA! Its very popular with you guys here! I can see why. Its utterly charming. We have another stroll around the Village and the cathedral, but this was a very quick visit as it was closing to enable the cleaners to do their job. We also noticed that it was closed from 12 –4pm, but Im not sure if this is every day?

Had a fabulous lemon and choc ice cream here, Im so going to miss the gelatos.

Decided to visit Sorrento this afternoon. Bus ride took about half an hour through very charming countryside – great views again. Got off the bus at Piazza Tasso. Felt rather lost without a map, so went into the nearest hotel and they were more than happy to provide a free town map. Had a slow walk to the sea front area. I must admit I wasn’t so impressed with Sorrento. Seemed too busy, too commercial and too big after the lovely villages we have been visiting. I wouldn’t return here personally. When you get to the sea front there are sheer cliffs/walls with the loungers set out below and on pontoon affairs out on the water. Just wasn’t my cup of tea. We couldn’t see any way of getting down there, so gave up! We had a drink in a small bar then got the bus back to Conca from outside the Circumvesuiviana station.

For our evening meal, we decided to haul our little selves down the many steps to the beach restaurants. Got there at about 6.45 not realising they don’t open until 7pm! Took some great photos and sat on the beach for a while. It seems like a very close knit community down here; there are three restaurants and they seem to all be family run – the kids and adults all seem to be involved in ferrying tourists around from this beach to the beach next door which I’m not sure is accessible from the road. Very enterprising. There is also a pontoon here with loungers as the space is at a premium on the very tiny beach. They transport you here too on their little boats for a euro each!

We decided on the restaurant which overhangs the harbour (Restaurant dei Michelle I believe it was called), run by a lovely lady who speaks very little english. However, with her little english and my even smaller knowledge of the Italian language we manage to order our meals with local wine. This is served up in a carafe with chunks of peach and is quite delicious. I had a seafood main course which had everything in it – crayfish, king prawns, octopus, squid – it was very good. And very fresh, straight from the boat that afternoon Id wager! Espresso and limoncello to finish, which was complimentary. We decided we would return as we enjoyed it so much. SLOW walk up the steps (its either slow or stop – they’re the only speeds we know faced with this kind of vertical challenge!) Tomorrow, Capri.

Can't wait for Capri. Keep it coming!Thank you.

You are doing just fine. Keep it coming!

Thanks for reading, hope you are enjoying :-)

CAPRI – Saturday 7th July – Our Wedding Anniversary

Decided to get the 9.15 bus to Positano so we can board the earlier ferry at 10am. No problems, bought tickets and ferry left on time. Of course the 11 euros is now escalating to include a higher ticket cost (10 am is more expensive than the special price at 10.55) and of course you need to buy a return if you are not staying! It all costs 58 euros in the end for two return tickets, returning on the hydrofoil.

Capri has a beautiful rugged coastline with huge cliffs which look spectacular as you arrive by the ferry. It arrives at Marina Grande – the place is packed with tourists, chaotic in fact!. Sat and had a coffee so we could decide on our plan for the day. The bill was 7 euros for two coffees. Hmmm. Quite a bit more than the mainland.

Bought our tickets for the funicular ride (which is opposite and to the left from the funicular stop) Tickets cost 1.30 euros each one way. At the top you arrive in the town of Capri at the Pza Umberto. We took a wander around there, passing all the designer boutiques, all very wonderful but not for our budget! – It was very hot, we purchased two orange slushies and some water. We had picked up a free Tourist Office map of Capri with suggested walks and decided to do one. We did their suggestion but the other way round, starting at the end and ending up at the beginning! Walked the picturesque Via Tragara to the terrace of Tragara, with a breathtaking view of the faraglioni (hope this link works)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...7/PICT1094.jpg

Walked around the coastline from here (some parts are a bit hair raising for those of us with a bit of vertigo as there are big drops to the ocean! – but well worth the views) We eventually reached the Grotto of Matermania, a natural cave which was transformed by the ancient romans into a nymphaeum dedicated to the Mater Magna. This was reached via many many steps and my heart was pounding ten to the dozen! More steps later and a café appears like an oasis. We order and down a litre of water. From this café we reached the Natural Arch. Very beautiful.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...7/PICT1111.jpg

Our ‘offical’ walking tour over, we head back towards the town and have panini and beers in a café. We have decided that the Azzuro grotto and Anacapri will wait for our next trip, as it is too busy and hot this time and we are shattered after our walk.

The hydrofoil back to Positano only took 30 mins. We had pizza on the seafront at Positano as our evening meal today which was good. Margarita of course ;-)

As it was our anniversary, we bought champagne which was brought to our rooom in a silver ice bucket and we drank to our marriage, once again star gazing and enjoying the view and evening peace. A wonderful way to celebrate!

Right, once again dinner is calling so I will finish up tomorrow!

What fun. I took that same walk and didn't see anyone else except for two nude sunbathers the whole time. Good to get away from the center isn't it? Glad you had a nice anniversary.

Hiya SeaUrchin, I think we passed about 10 people, it was a bit of a squash trying to pass each other on those narrow steps! It was great to see a more peaceful aspect to the island.

This is a wonderful trip report: you have a knack for capturing a scene...I have been to several of the sites you mention. Thank you for bringing back some memories...

Thanks for your encouragement! Im enjoying writing this...

AMALFI – Sunday, 8th July 07 – We decided that today we would take it easy! Had a late breakfast (the breakfast at the hotel was a small buffet with the usual continental fare of bread rolls, cheeses and meats, juices etc. Small but OK. Some mornings they had huge apple filled croissants though, which were to die for!)

Got the SITA bus to Amalfi, and wished we had stayed at home! The drive was awful – absolutely packed to the gills. This was the one and only time I had to stand. Hot and stuffy, the bus had a ‘mexican standoff’ with another one coming in the opposite direction. The police had to come and clear the traffic all around so we could both pass. The traffic on the road today was HORRENDOUS! Many cars were getting damaged as impatient drivers were trying to pass the buses etc. The bus also got stuck further along. This was the only time this had occurred. If you can do something else on a Sunday apart from using the roads, I would highly recommend it! Laze by a pool or on a beach for example…. When we reached Amalfi it was mobbed there too. Stay at home folks, at the Amalfi coast on a Sunday, and do yourself a favour! ;-)

We decided to do a ferry trip along the coast to the Grotto Smereldo to see another view of the coast and to see the grotto

http://www.seeitalia.com/amalfi/sigh...ald_grotto.htm

I thoroughly enjoyed the ride along the coast but the Grotto was a bit disappointing. The short boat ride cost 10 euros, but once there you have to pay another 5 euros to board a little rowing boat to take you in. It’s a tiny place, the water is beautiful. The best part of the trip however, was the boat ride to it!

An English woman on the same trip reckoned she had ‘been conned’. We just took it for what it was and enjoyed it anyway…..

The beach at Amalfi – it was difficult to see any sand or pebbles as there were so many bodies laid out on the beach. Too much for us, we decided to return to our gorgeous balcony and relax with coffee, enjoying the weather and relative peace.

When we returned the little cove at Conca was mobbed with all these day tripper boats! We couldn’t believe it as there were only about 8 boats moored here before.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...7/PICT1160.jpg


It was fun to watch all these sunseekers and what they were up to from up above! I love people watching hehe…….

OUR LAST DAY – Monday 9th July 07 – we finished packing and checked out leaving our bags at the reception. Decided on a relaxing couple of hours on the beach, hired a couple of parasols (3 euros each).

We decided to get the hydrofoil from Positano to Napoli (Beverello), so set off to catch the 3.15pm. Very smooth journey and it was great to see all that coastline from Positano to Napoli, with a great view of Mount Versuvius. The trip up to the crater we will leave for next time too.

Got a taxi from the Harbour to the airport for ease rather than a bus. (22 Euros)

So here we were, at the airport waiting for our flight. We are absolutely sure we will be back. A really memorable and thoroughly enjoyable trip!

THE END :-)

Brava!! Thanks for the wonderful report!

Thank you for the lovely trip report. I went to the Museo della Carta a few years ago. I didn't keep a journal on that trip and completely forgot about that museum until you reminded me.

Echoing the Bravo from the above poster! This was a wonderful trip report and gave me a lot of ideas for our next trip to the AC area

Brava indeed EnglishOne. Again I will say that your trip report is a delight!! And that would be true even if you had written many reports in the pass. I hope you and your husband will have many more trips English One along with decades of wedded bliss. A late Happy Anniversary to you. ((F))

Grazie for your encouragement, Im smiling here as I really didnt know if this would come out as a good report or not! You've encouraged me to do more in the future! Next one will be Tuscany and Florence in September.

Oh and thanks for your good wishes LoveItaly. Ive just received my photos in the post this morning and I've been transported back again :-)

I also thoroughly enjoyed your trip report and have many good ideas for our next visit. I had planned to do a brief report on our recent trip to Tuscany, but am reluctant after your intersting and detailed report! However to return the favor of getting so much good information from this site, I will post a few of our highlights. I envy you going to Tuscany as I could have stayed! Thank you for sharing a review of such a memorable trip.

Thanks again for your positive comments. Ccthomp, awww go on! Do a report - you know you want to ;-)