kk

My husband and I will land at Marco Polo Airport, Venice, on Sept 12. Six nights in a palazzo on the Rio de Mendicante and lagoon (has a water dock), then off to the Veneto to see Palladian architecture, then over to Milan for four nights. No car, just two train journeys. You can Google Palazzo Merati to see where we'll be on the eastern edge of Cannaregio.

We've had three trips to Italy but this is our first time for Venice, which seems quite complicated. The palazzo was actually cheaper, amazingly, than our three star hotel, which we canceled. I found the beautiful palazzo in a tiny ad in the back of my alumni magazine. We won't have a concierge to ask things so I imagine we will get lost, but all guidebooks say to do that anyway.

So, here are the two main questions: What are your suggestions for five full days in Venice... and three in Milan? I've read most of the threads here about Venice but would still welcome suggestions. I cannot believe we will be there in just three weeks. Hoping that the horrid heat wave breaks!!!

stracciatella

If it is hot in Milan, you can easily go to either Lago di Como or Lago Maggiore by train.

I like the Pinocoteca Ambrosiana in Milan.

kk

I checked the Ambrosiana and it looks like a must, all those rare da Vincis, plus so much more. Thank you. I think we will stay in the city, despite the heat. We've been up to the wonderful Lago di Como but want to see the offerings of Milan now.

HowardR

"I imagine we will get lost..." Hey, that's the only way to enjoy Venice!!! You really haven't experienced this wonderful city unless you've gotten lost strolling on or by the little streets, canals and alleys.

Peter_S_Aus

I wrote a couple of trip reports - mostly about Venice. Here they are:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
and

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...st-verbose.cfm

ellenem

I now you said you read trip reports, but this report of mine features 8 days in Venice, so you may find useful tips and ideas.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm

kk

Well now, Peter, THAT was a trip report! I've just gone through your more recent one and copied out lots into my notes. Are you still set for arrival in Verona on FEB 9, 2013? I cannot imagine staying anywhere as glorious as Venice for nine whole weeks. Sheer bliss. I thought we were lucky having six nights there, given that so many rush in and out in a day or two. I still need to read your earlier report. Many thanks. kk, houston tx

kk

I guess I mis-spoke/mis-typed. I read many threads, Q and As, but not long trip reports like these, Peter and ellenem. Very beguiling and useful, also frightening. So much detail. I cannot remember it all.
I'd better dig out my copy of Jan Morris's book, which someone gave me months back...and I never knew Titian died of the plague. How awful. Thank you both for pointing out your detailed reports, otherwise I might not have pressed on far enough herein to find them. I am in awe. Obviously there will have to be a return visit, or two, or three or.....

tarquin

We took a burchiello trip up the Brenta canal last September to see the Palladian villas and eat a fish lunch. You can start at either Venice or Padua, go all the way or half, and it was hugely relaxing and enjoyable to drift through the fields and small towns on the way. Try googling burchiello - it is easy to book online.

Where are you staying in Vicenza? I love the Due Mori right in the centre of town and around the corner from my favourite pastry shop/cafe Sorayu. Ristorante Antico Guelfo is run by two sisters, local food and lovely atmosphere.

kk

G Boutique Hotel is our home for three nights in Vicenza. I will gladly take note of your pastry shop/cafe (feeling fatter already) and Ristorante Antico Guelfo, tarquin. Thanks so much. Now I will try googling burchiello.

kk

Dear Tarquin, I just booked your recommendation--Albergo Due Mori. It looks enchanting and even for its best "castle room," by going non-cancellable, we get wonderful stuff and some 120 euros cheaper than our previous hotel, which looked fine. G Boutique Hotel was #12 on tripadvisor.com but Due Mori was #9. I've seen your posts for years and years on Fodors and trust them. Thanks so much. Now it will be really easy to go to "your" pastry shop and ristorante! Yay!!!

kk

Tarquin, never mind that previous message....I booked the wrong albergo, some 29 km up the road, still in the Veneto and looks lovely, but.... I've now booked the right one. I swear I never made these mistakes when I was 15 years younger. Still, even with the cancellation penalty for the wrong hotel, we are STILL saving 100 some euros by being in your place, so again, my thanks....silly me!~

Ackislander

You are going to need some form of car or car and driver if you are serious about seeing a lot of the better Palladian villas. They are clustered within 30 miles or so of Vicenza, though some of his most interesting work is right in the town itself.

kk

There are some mini-bus half-day tours that go out to the Palladian villas. We will probably do one of those and spend the rest of the time in Vicenza since there is so much there, and we are staying in the thick of it. I'm thinking it will be a nice, quieter break between Venice and Milan.

tarquin

I hope you like the Due Mori, kk. We ask for a room overlooking the Contra Do Rode.

It's possible to walk to the most famous villa of all, La Rotonda (interior open only Wed and Sat, 10-12 and 3 - 6pm, exterior open other days as well.) The walk is longish but pleasant, partly under a long loggia. I will be there myself on 19th Sept, as we have never managed to time it right for the inside. On the way you pass the Villa Nani Valmorana with dwarves on the garden wall.

kk

That's amazing,tarquin. We check in on 9/18 and want to go to La Rotonda on 9/19. Somewhere I read that going there is uphill but the return is easier and quite pleasant. Is that true? Maybe we will meet up!

tarquin

Yes, it's uphill but not steep as I recall. Re the Villa Valmorana ai Nani, when I said "dwarves" I meant statues of dwarves. It appears to be open as well on Wednesdays, the main attraction being the Tiepolo frescos.

I will look for someone who might be from Houston? I can't think of how to describe us - middling height, middling age +, man with no jacket if it's hot but shirt buttoned to the top, me curley bob, probably in a frock and sandals. Think 1955 retro.

We will go straight to La Rotonda from the train station as it's halfway there, then go into Vicenza for lunch and the afternoon.

isabel

While in Venice consider a day trip to Verona. It's so close and it's just so beautiful. Yes there are a lot of tourists there compared to Vicenza but it's still a 'must see' in my book. My first trip to the area I did day trips to both Verona and Vicenza and like Verona better. Just this summer I returned to the area and stayed four days in Verona (although I did day trips to other places).

yestravel

I think Verona is quite charming and if u have time worth a visit. However, its closer to Vicenza than Venice.

rolohof_duvall

KK,
My wife and I spent several days in Milan Sept. 2011 and found it very enjoyable. Beside the Last supper we spent time at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. The display of DAvinci’s Codice Atlantico was amazing for us. Close to the Pinacoteca is Santa Mria presso San Satiro. We enjoyed seeing Bramantes use of “perspective” to make the presbetary seem muh larger than it is. Being lovers of Michelangelo we wanted to see his Rondanini Pieta at the Castello Sfozesco, and were very pleasantly surprised at the variety of museums ( Ancient art, applied arts, 15th-21st century funrishings, etc) within the Castello itself. Well worth our time. The public transportation system in Milan is very good and easy to navigate with many bus, tram and metro(subway) options. DO some research on www.atm-mi.it. There is an English version. The site has a handy trip planner. We stayed near the Pt. Venizia metro stop and took bus 9 in a loop around Milano to go see San Lorenzo Maggiore one of the oldest churches in Milan. A fine work of 4th century Byzantine mosaics (if one likes that sort of thing) was the reward. Of course the Duomo and Galleria are works of wonder and beauty. The Duomo Museum was closed for restoration while we were there, but would have been included in our itinerary if it had been open. We thoroughly enjoyed our dinner at Latteria San Marco, no reservation accepted and cash only. Milan of course is a large city with all the hustle and bustle that goes with it, but we were glad we spent time there.

It was hot 85+ degrees F, when we were there but we always managed to find a good Gellato shop.

Rolo