I'd welcome critique on my Rome itinerary!
 

This site is really wonderful! Love all the first hand experiences to guide you!

My wife and I will be making our first trip to Rome with our 13 year old son on Feb 20, 2009.

May I supply our "planned" itinerary for critique? We arrive on Sat Feb 21...no plans due to jet lag...probably just wander around Villa Doria Pamphili and make our way towards Trastevere if we have the energy.

Day 1 Sun Feb 22
Ancient Rome- Forum, Colosseum, Circus Maximus, Arch of Constantine, Church of Santa Maria in Aracoeli, etc, etc.

Day 2 Mon Feb 23
Vatican City- Pre-booked a tour of the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica. Will also check out the Vatican Museums. Then onto Castel Sant'Angelo and Ponte Sant'Angelo. I'd like to finish the day by satisfying my morbid side and visit the Crypt of the Capuchin Monks (I loved the catacombs of Paris...sorry!).

Day 3 Tue Feb 24
Spanish Steps, Column of Marcus Aurelius, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, finishing off by wandering about Piazza Navona.

Day 4 Wed Feb 25
Early start and head to the market in Piazza Campo Di Fiori, Jewish Ghetto, Tiber Island, Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, finish the day wandering about Trastevere.

Day 5 Thur Feb 26
Day trip to Ostia...that's it. If its not too late getting back, roam around Testaccio.

Day 6 Fri Feb 27
I'm going to get crucified here because I've read all the advice on NOT doing this. However, my wife will shop till she drops and my son and I will take train(s) to Pompei. I know that we will have just been to Ostia, but go to "Google", search images under "Vesuvius" and take a look at those pics!! I think the trip will be worth it enough just to see an active volcano! Call me crazy.

Day 7 Sat Feb 28
Leave Rome for Toronto. Boo hoo!

What do you think? Are we missing anything 'major'? Too ambitious? (we tend to devour cities we visit, so we're used to a hectic pace). Let us know. Thank you. Cheers!

Kevin

Hello Kevin, I would be inclined to go with your son to Pompeii on either Tuesday or Wednesday and do the sightseeing you were going to do on that day on Friday. I say that as visiting Pompeii from Rome will be a real long day and in that you are flying home to Canada on Saturday which is a long flight and probably with an earling morning departure I think, or at least I would be, tired for the flight if I had visited Pompeii the day before.

Have a beautiful time in Rome with your family.

Hi Kevin,

I'd suggest that Sunday, as part of your Ancient Rome tour, that you make time for the Capitoline Museums (of art and archeology) which are located around the beautiful Piazza del Campidoglio.

You pretty much have to pass through this important square(or least pass by it) to reach Aracoeli. I think the Capitoline Hill is one of loveliest and most interesting spots in Rome and it gets almost no attention.

It can also be reached from the Piazza Venezia by climbing the sweeping cordonata stairs designed by Michelangelo.

Michelangelo also designed the piazza and from the sides, you have wonderful views out over the Forum towards the Colosseum. Further, two of the three museums that make up the complex are connected by an underground tunnel that also gives you access to the ancient Tabularum, which is open on one side to look out over the Forum. When I was last there in January 2008, it was a great spot to take photos while still sheltered! (The tunnel runs under the centre building of the complex, which is now Rome City Hall.)

The main museum has a decent cafeteria if your family gets cold or tired (or needs washrooms) and has some wonderful exhibitions that your son might enjoy, particularly access to some ruins and an explanation of the ongoing archeological dig that continues to find information about the origins of the Capitoline Hill and the Temple of Jupiter.

I think it's a good itinerary and like the fact that you are basing in Rome and only doing daytrips from there as opposed to so many people who try and cram in two or even three cities in a week. Rome is my favorite place and you seem to be seeing a lot of things but still have some downtime planned. With the new ultra fast train between Rome and Naples, daytrips to Pompeii aren't that horrible, but better in the spring/summer when there are more hours of daylight. Anyway, if you are prepared for a long day, I'm sure you, and especially your son, will enjoy it. What you have planned for Day 3, Tuesday, will only take the morning. You may want to visit the Borghese Gallery in the afternoon, which really shouldn't be missed, or if your son enjoys the macabre like you do, he may like a visit to the Criminalogy Museum which is housed in Rome's old prison. Pretty gruesome and very interesting. My girls loved it!

You asked "are we missing anything major?"

Yes! gelato, gelato, gelato :D

I'd include the Borghese too.

I'm not a 13-year-old boy, so maybe that's why I'd include more museums and churches. In general I think this looks pretty good. The Capuchin Crypt isn't anywhere near where you'll be earlier in the day, but if you're okay with a loooong walk (or Metro or bus or taxi) you can do it and it doesn't take long. The long walk would be beautiful and interesting, lots of places to stop along the way.

You can probably cover some of what you have down for Tuesday on your arrival day unless you all fall promptly asleep. Trevi. Piazza del Popolo and Santa Maria del Popolo. Etc.

There's no way I'd take two day trips, but you were expecting to hear that, right?

Gelato, pizza, fountains at night. Don't forget that stuff.

Have fun! I love Rome and wish I were returning this month.

Galleria Borghese--not to be missed.

Kevin, thanks for posting this! I am going to be in Rome for 8 days in May and I really like how you've organized your trip. I am also struggling with a side trip to Pompeii - please post back and tell us how that went? The only difference with my trip is that we plan to go to the Italian open (tennis) for a day.

Thanks for all the helpful advice!

LoveItaly...you're right about the two day trips. Could probably go Mon and Thur to break it up.

saac...I knew I was light on museums. I'll make sure to include Capitoline Museum.

Grisnia...thanks for estimating my Tuesday. I'll fill up on another museum...Borghese Gallery!

Sassy...I was too embarassed to write that I can't wait to do a cannon ball into a giant TUB of gelato!!

Leely...I planned on a long walk to Capuchin Monks to stop and smell the roses on the way. Also, I'm a church nut...any I see will be explored! Night life will happen, but will depend on fatigue of others...I never get tired! If you read of a Canadian getting arrested for frollicking naked in the Trevi Fountain at 2am, it'll probably be me...lol!

bobthenavigator...you're a threepeat on Galleria Borghese. It won't get passed over.

MarieF...My plan is to update daily via a mini blog on this site. You're going to watch tennis??? Why not watch paint dry or grass grow...its much more exciting! lol!

Cheers everyone!

Kevin.

I just want to second Grinisa's recommendation of the Museo Criminologico. We went there with our kids and really enjoyed it. Not everything was in english, but we still found it fascinating! It is rather small, and I believe there was only one other person in it when we were there. As I recall we did it the same day we went to the Jewish Ghetto.

That's a "twofer" on the Criminology Museum. I'll add it to the list. However, Frommer's guidebook to Rome makes no mention of it. Where is it located?

One of the most enjoyable experience for me is to see great arts in the original setting (i.e. churches). There are quire a few Caravaggio around Rome. You can even find a Michaelangelo not far from Colosseum.

I will read the guide book, and make a point to pop into these churches.

I love that you want to stop in every church you pass on that long walk to the Capuchin Monks. However, you must realize that if you do that, you'll never get there! :-d Keep in mind that most churches are closed in the afternoon, usually from 12:30 or 1:00 until 3:30 or 4:00.

On Day 4, on the way from the Jewish Ghetto to Santa Maria in Trastavere, you will be close to S. Cecilia in Trastavere. If you have time, it would be a great addition. Wonderful church, and don't miss going down in the crypt, walk all the way to the end for an absolutely amazing mosaic chapel.

While I really enjoyed Ostia Antica, since you're going to Pompeii, I would skip it. Since you're a church nut, there are SO many more, and you could get to a good number that day.

The Criminology Museum isn't that well known which makes it a nice break from some crowded sights. It's on the corner of Via Giulia and Via dei Gonfalone, just north of the Ponte Mazzini.

Oh, if you like macabre things, I wrote a Travel Note on the Slowtravel website called "Chills and Thrills in the Eternal City." My kids love scary things so that's why I compiled it. You might find some other things to see.
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/rome/chills_thrills.htm

This is truly the coolest site! You are all so genuine and helpful! I could become addicted to this place!

Kevin.

Kevin: Looking forward to your blog! I hope it will be more exciting than watching paint dry or grass grow :)

Please do a trip report when you get home!

Actually you plan to see more of Rome in one week than I saw in 2 1/2 when I was there for a Christmas home exchange several years back--certainly in the church department anyway.

I would not do Pompeii if you are going to do Ostia. Ostia has wonderful mosaics but no frescos. Pompeii has the frescos but my personal opinion is that you don't need that long day trip because they are similar. There is nothing magical about Mount Vesuvius in my opinion. It erupted in 79 A.D. and entombed Pompeii. The end.

Just leave time for wondering about and making your own discoveries. Not everything is in the guide books!

Learn how to use the buses. The Vatican Museum, by the way, is easily a full day by itself. Don't rush.

Have fun no matter what you see or don't see! There is no right or wrong way to structure a trip so long as you are happy.

Kevin,

I agree with the others! My first thought for your Tuesday is to add the Borghese! Just piling on here.

Also, I would use my time to see other things and NOT do both trips to Ostia Antica and Pompeii. Stick with Pompeii. It will be a long and you will be exhausted. Even though you are going in Feb, take a wide brim hat and bottled water!

Hi, Kevin,
I would say Monday is a little too full. The Vatican Museums are one of the largest collections in the world. And you have a tour of St. Peter's too. Not sure you'll make it to the Capuchin.

We took our kids to Rome when the oldest was 10. A little younger, granted, but I would still say that you may overwhelm your son if you do add all of the other suggestions of museums. And I did especially love the Borghese, so don't get me wrong. But time to eat gelato and watch the pigeons is important.

Also, to keep the churches interesting you might get a book that tells the stories/legends. One that I liked was: A Catholic's Guide to Rome: Discovering the Soul of the Eternal City (Paperback)by Frank Korn.

Is your son interested in the Greek/Roman gods? That could also make the trip more interesting. A very fun novel to pick up for him is "The Lightning Thief" which has the Greek gods acting in modern times with kids.

My kids did love Ostia Antica, and since nearly no one goes there it was not cordoned off and allowed a lot of wandering wherever you wanted. I have not been to Pompeii, so cannot compare.

The other thing we did was ask what the kids would like to see. Hands down, the request was for a castle. While Castel Sant'Angelo is a converted one, I wanted a truer built-from-scratch one. We went to Bracciano for a day trip. This is not considered a top-ten destination in most Rome guide books, but our family loved it. Seeing the armor and weapons (the armory was closed at Sant' Angelo) is something my youngest still talks about.

The criminology museum mentioned by another poster also sounds like it would be a great option, although I have not been.

Hi Kevin,

you've got a great itinerary there and good input, just don't be upset if you get too worn out and don't get it all done. Maybe if you skip Ostia Antica and leave yourselves a free day to catch up on all that you weren't able to squeeze in, you'll have more fun and enjoy your touring. Please don't clock yourselves, Rome is not a city for tight schedules! Have fun with the gelato, the people watching, the wandering.
Enjoy!

Hi all,

I suppose as with most folks, we have an itinerary for Rome, but not much of it is carved in stone. We live a harried life in Canada, so it may be nice to do jack s__t for 8 days. Much of what we have "planned" may turn into gelato days, the sipping of red wine and eating some great cheese and bread. We don't want to go in blind, so we've made a plan. However, to reiterate, we're pretty easy.

My wife and I have travelled extensively (myself as a skier...Kitzbuhel, Zermatt, Cervinia, Chamonix, Western Canada, Colorado, Utah, blah, blah, blah...these were in the days of singlehood before I ruined my life and got married, lol. And my wife was raised a brat of a Canadian diplomat who lived in France, Hungary, Egypt and several locales in the USA.

This has had a profound effect on us for the good, so we decided that for each of our...gulp...5 kids, we'd let them choose an educational trip for becoming a teenager. Our son is the first to reach this milestone, so he chose Rome. This is our way of trying to steer them/bribe them into higher education, as opposed to rotting their little brains on MSN Messenger or becoming gangbangers.

So, I guess what I'm trying to say is that this is his trip. He's our guide. The itinerary is HIS from parent mandated internet research and book research. Nothing in life is free my son!

Alas, we'll go with the flow. If it turns into aimless wandering whilst admiring all things along the way, so be it. I'm rather hoping to spend a fair bit of time shopping for fresh fruit, bread, wine and cheese!

Cheers!
Kevin.

Bravo! It all sounds great, whether you get everywhere you've mentioned or not.

Try to fit in a market. The best known and most central (and most touristy) is the one in Campo de' Fiori; there's also one in Piazza San Calisto in Trastevere. Possibly the most "genuine" one is in Piazza Testaccio. They're open in the morning, until about 1:00 pm, except on Sunday.

If you love red wine, you'll find it in Italy, but be aware that the local red wine - the one that you will likely be served in a carafe in a trattoria - is less than stellar. You'll generally do better with a white wine, but if you want to have red, I'd suggest you order a bottled wine.

I see many mentions of cheese, but if you're not a vegetarian, do indulge in some of the "salumi", hams and sausages. If you're in Testaccio while they're open (Monday to Saturday, 8 am to 2 pm and 5 pm to 8:15 pm, go to Volpetti at Via Marmorata 47 for Rome's best selection of cheeses and salumi. They give free tastes - within limits, of course.

Sounds like you'll have a great time!
Lucky kids :D

Another vote for picking either Ostia Antica or Pompeii but not trying to do both with only six days in Rome. I would recommend Ostia Antica because of the long travel time to Pompeii.

We visited Rome with our 16 year old son two years ago in late Feb/early March. This was our son's pick and we all thoroughly enjoyed the trip. My husband and I had both been to Rome before but this was a longer stay and we really fell in love with the city for the first time

Since you (and/or your son?) seem to be very interested in ancient Roman sites, I would suggest visiting the Palatine as well as the Forum and Colosseum. At the very least, go up to the area near the Forum (entrance is included with your ticket there) for the view of the Forum from the Farnese gardens and to see the Huts of Romulus.
The Via Appia Antica with the catacombs is also interesting. There is an archeo bus run by the tourist office that goes out to that area than on to the aqueducts. I also thought that the Baths of Caracalla were fascinating but have to admit that our son was less interested in them than in the other ancient Roman sites I have mentioned. Overall, he preferred the outdoor areas and architecture to art museums and churches.

When you visit Trastevere, Isola Tiberina, the Ghetto, etc. you might want to consider starting by taking a taxi from your hotel to the top of the Janiculum then walking downhill to Trastevere (you come out behind Santa Maria in T and see the Tempietto en route). The view from the top of the hill is spectacular.

On the day you visit the Pantheon and P. Navona or the day you do Trastevere and the Ghetto, I would recommend stopping at the cat sanctuary at the Area Sacra dell'Argentina

When you go to the Spanish Steps, etc I would start at Piazza del Popolo. Above it in the Pincio Gardens is another great panaoramic view of the city.

When we visited Rome we had wonderful spring-like weather and almost no rain so we were able to walk and walk and walk. We were very lucky and our itinerary would have been different in bad weather.

Castel Sant'Angelo is closed on Mondays.

A big thank you to all who participated in this thread. I think we've got things as well "planned" as possible.

A special thanks goes out to those who gave really specific advice on things such as Castel Sant'Angelo being closed Mondays, the most genuine market being at Piazza Testaccio, Volpetti deli location, the cat sanctuary (we all love cats), where to begin our days and that the red wine sucks out of the caraffe!

I hope to begin our blog on Sat Feb 21 and write daily until the 27th. I'll post under Europe/Rome/Italy and give it a creative name like Kevin's Rome blog!

I would now love to start a new thread and ask for specific advice on the best places to eat in Rome and where to buy the best wines, cheeses, breads, meats, etc. We're going to be eating all of our meals out, so we look forward to hearing about some yummy spots to chow down!

We want to do one kick butt, fancy, delicious meal at a top notch restaurant as a treat...100 euros??,
but the rest of the time, we'd love to eat authentic, delicious, reasonably priced fare. If you can get us off the beaten path to some hidden gems, that would be wonderful!

I'll start my new thread now and look forward to hearing from all of you. Thanks again for the advice!

Cheers!

Kevin.

Kevin, it might be best if you just keep adding to this thread. The reason being, that it will pop up as a fresh post for all the people who have already written on it, and they can answer your additional quesitons.

So glad you had your son plan the itinerary. That is the way to go.

Great itinerary! May I "steal" it???

Thank you,
Michele

5alive...oops, too late...already started a new thread under Europe forum/Italy titled "Kevin1967 looking for advice on Rome restaurants".

michele_d...steal away. We've done lots of research and have had great advice from fellow Fodorites!

Cheers!

Kevin.

I'd do the Capuchin church on Via Veneto the day you go to Spanish Steps. same area...It is a great place... I lived in Rome 18 years.
re Trip to Pompei - better to take bus tour - Appian Line (Grey Line) you will not be wasting time getting from Station to Pompei etc. You need a guide. Enjoy. Buon viaggio.

I think San Clemente is one of the more interesting churches in Rome; you start at the ground level in a lovely small church with beautiful mosaics, and then descend below the church where a pre-Christian altar to the god Mithra (as I recall!) still remains. Drippy water sounds and cool spooky atmosphere.

Not far from San Clemente is the church of Sta Maria in Cosmedin, where, if you or your wife ever saw "Roman Holiday" you can stick your hands into the Mouth of Truth. Goofy but fun if you are a fan of that great movie.

For good salads and pastas that won't break the bank, try one of the Insalata Ricca restaurants; I think one is near Piazza Navona and/or Campo di Fiori.

Pizza by the slice is a decent quick lunch, too.

Great gelato (gelati, I guess) all over, but a famous and GOOD place is San Crispino near the Trevi fountain. I can still taste the fresh pear and honey...a convenient stop after you throw the required coins into the Trevi fountain.

Yes on the cat sanctuary. Good photos ops, and the cats are fed at least, so seem as content as cats living in a ruin can be!