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This is an interesting topic, Julie, and I’m glad you shared your thoughts.
I just had my first solo trip and I realised I planned that well for my current needs but in 10 years time, it would be a different trip. The aspect I liked least were the ‘travel days’ between bases, I don’t have much luggage but a few times I had to jump off trains and run downstairs and then upstairs to next platform and that was a few times too many. A widowed colleague just returned from a river cruise and a Paris stay and loved it, decided that’s all she’s doing from now on, but, the single supplement nearly doubled the cost. I don’t see myself doing that, but a longer city (small city not big city) stay with daytrips or similar. |
Jules:
As a senior single woman I enjoyed reading your TR, although I am in no way a cyclist. However, having had the solo travel experience of many years I certainly identified with how your trip went. I had traveled on business as a solo prior to embarking on solo leisure travel experience once my children were grown and away from home here in the U.S. and I became single (at 60) once more, so I knew how to navigate but wasn’t sure what to expect socially. But cautiously I stuck my toe in the water and it’s been pretty ok for twenty plus years, give or take a few flirtatious husbands and those death looks from insecure wives. I’ve done both small and larger group bus/walk travel in Canada and Europe on my own. However, River cruising has been my favorite, with six under my belt so far. Two of the River cruise lines including Tauck and Uniworld have had bikes on board and have offered that mode as a choice for at least one of the daily excursions as well as evening ride opportunities. Tauck offers a standard no single supplement cabin rate and I have negotiated with both Uniworld and Avalon to contact me if the single supplement were to be dropped prior to the trip I was interested in. On two of those occasions when this happened, then opted for the larger window/balcony cabin on a higher deck. I wasn’t sure what to expect socially on the first cruise but surpringly, even though it was mostly couples, I was invited at every meal by one table or another to join them. By the time I was on my most recent, sixth experience, it was almost fifty-fifty single women traveling together or as singles and socialization was a wonderful mix for all. It takes a bit of courage to step out of our comfort zone but you have made the first plunge. Keep it up and go out there on as many adventures as you can manage. It’s a different life from being a couple but it’s not the end of the road if you can continue to find fulfillment in travel. |
Yes, our former preferences and styles need to change as life events happen and as we age. Right now I am flexing and figuring out what works for me. Standard cruises just have never been my thing, but maybe my feelings about that will change as I age. We always used to say to ourselves that we'd save river cruises and do them in our 80s.
And, boy do I identify with the comment about schlepping luggage up and down in train and metro stations! |
And, now to finish up....
BRUSSELS The train ride into central station Brussels was easy and I arrived around 3, but my deciding to stay to see a few more things in Bruges meant that I only had a couple hours on arrival day and then one full day to see Brussels. An announcement was made just prior to arrival at central station to be sure to watch out for pickpockets, so I doubled my precautions. I had vacillated (a lot) about which hotel to book in Brussels because I wanted something convenient to the train station and centrally located without being smack dab in the middle of tourist central. I was tired when I got off the train, and an irritating, chronic leg injury was acting up, so I was thrilled when I discovered that it only took me 2 to 3 minutes to walk to Hotel Dixseptieme from the station. I got their cheapest room, and it was huge--like a suite--and lovely. There was no view because it faced a small, paved inner courtyard with a few shrubs and tables, but that also meant it was extremely quiet (other than the occasional inconsiderate fellow guest). There was a huge tub which I much appreciated so I could have a relaxing soak after having spent 10 days doing a lot of physically strenuous exercise. Breakfast was delicious too. So, all in all, the hotel gave me everything I was looking for even though within a block it does get quite a bit more touristy. However, this historic hotel is not for those with mobility issues because there are small flights of stairs everywhere; I even had to go up and down some stairs and across the courtyard to get to my room. Prior to my trip I had made a list of things I wanted to see and do in Brussels. Of course, my decision to spend an additional morning in Bruges meant that the reality was that I was able to see and do maybe 1/3 of them. It didn’t help that I had a terrible time navigating around Brussels; even with Google maps I was constantly lost (and a regular map didn't help too much either). My first day I managed to get over to the St. Catherine’s area and had some pizza at Nona for a late lunch/early dinner. It seemed like an area I would have liked to have more time to wander in, but I never found my way back. I also walked through the Grand Place, taking all of that in. My one full day in Brussels I had great plans to see a lot of different things, but this didn’t pan out. I swear I must have walked in circles (you know that dreaded feeling when you find yourself realizing that you had already walked past the same shop 10 minutes ago) a couple times just trying to find my destination, and I kept getting more and more screwed up. Even though it was only a block or two from my hotel I never did find the Galleries until I ran across it in early evening my last day when security for some reason (maybe an event?) were blocking entrance. But, if anyone is interested, I did find some sort of glass-roofed, gallery shop area that had at least 50 nail salons and also a lot of sex-related shops. Not at all what I was looking for! I had read that the musical instrument museum is in a splendid Art Nouveau building (former department store) so decided to visit that primarily to see the building. But, once there, I became fascinated by the museum and all the various instruments (75% of which I had never heard of) with all the short audio clips to listen to them. Then, I was going to walk to the Horta museum but kept going in circles until I finally just decided to forget the idea and go instead to the nearby Beaux Artes museum; it was a good choice since I lingered until the guard kicked me out of a gallery at 10 minutes before closing time. Lodging close to the more touristy area ended up being a good choice for me because, a little out of the main area but within a couple blocks from my hotel, I managed to find The Noodle Bar, a very good small Asian/Thai restaurant where I had a great Thai dinner at a sidewalk table. And, in the morning it was a very quick walk from my hotel to the train station to catch the train direct to the airport. So, the trip ended. It was a good mix of places and activities, and I got a lot of exercise because in addition to the cycling I walked between 4 and 10 miles every day of the trip (the most miles on the non-cycling days). I enjoyed both countries and would contemplate re-visiting some places but likely won’t be returning because there are so many other places in the world I still would like to see in the small window of traveling time remaining for me. And, I am looking for that next cycling tour to a place that’s new to me where the cycling isn’t too difficult for someone who is older. One final tip from me is before booking to ask the company for a breakdown of the demographics of the guests to see if it is a match for you. No matter how much I wanted to take a particular tour or see an area, I absolutely would not go on a trip that was comprised of only couples or one where a large group of closely connected family and friends have all booked together. |
It sounds like you had some wonderful experiences! I am glad to hear to have used Road Scholars. My Mom did that at one point and really enjoyed it and used some of their shorter trips, some independent time, and some day trips, to string together a hybrid experience. She did meet another woman who she really liked and they travelled a couple of times together. I have noticed there are a lot of woman only and singles tours, also. It is harder with the some of the smaller tours to gauge who will be on the trip because it does change from trip to trip. Good luck with your future planning, and again, you have my admiration for your wonderful attitude.
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Sounds like an interesting trip.
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>>My one full day in Brussels I had great plans to see a lot of different things, but this didn’t pan out. I swear I must have walked in circles (you know that dreaded feeling when you find yourself realizing that you had already walked past the same shop 10 minutes ago) a couple times just trying to find my destination, and I kept getting more and more screwed up. Even though it was only a block or two from my hotel I never did find the Galleries until I ran across it in early evening my last day when security for some reason (maybe an event?) were blocking entrance. But, if anyone is interested, I did find some sort of glass-roofed, gallery shop area that had at least 50 nail salons and also a lot of sex-related shops. Not at all what I was looking for!<<
>>I had read that the musical instrument museum is in a splendid Art Nouveau building (former department store) so decided to visit that primarily to see the building. But, once there, I became fascinated by the museum and all the various instruments (75% of which I had never heard of) with all the short audio clips to listen to them. Then, I was going to walk to the Horta museum but kept going in circles until I finally just decided to forget the idea and go instead to the nearby Beaux Artes museum; it was a good choice since I lingered until the guard kicked me out of a gallery at 10 minutes before closing time. << I can relate - every time I go to Vienna I wind up lost. The first time I was there my German wasn't so good and I passed by the street 'Einbahnstrasse'. After a while, I passed by it again. I thought, I must be walking in circles. I think there was a third time. Later on I realised that Einbahnstrasse means 'one way street' and I hadn't been going in circles, I just kept seeing that sign on different streets! How nice that you found two of the good museums. In all honesty Horta is a bit of an outlier and I would probably recommend a taxi for most people to get there unless you are comfortable with the tram system. The musical instruments museum is by Horta as well, so you haven't missed out. I love this museum too, very interactive and interesting. Lavandula |
julies Thank you for your report! My colleague and her spouse (both in their early 60s, avid cyclists) have gone on numerous bike tours in recent years. They are doing a Bike and Sail tour in the Netherlands this summer (sailing around the islands). When I look at their itinerary, they bike at least 30-40 miles a day, so I'm surprised (in a good way) to see your tour is less bike mileage. Like what you observed, my colleague is going not just with her spouse, but a group of her friends so they basically "buy out" the entire boat of 24 spots. I am interested because I am a casual cyclist, definitely not in any good shape or form. On a good day I can do 20 miles flat land but forget about hills. I am considering taking one of these bike/barge or bike/sail tours with my husband and our son (preteen) but mostly just unsure if I am fit enough to bike that much. Of course you said there is always e-bike option! Sounds like no one on your tour came as a family with teenage kids; have you encountered such in your previous bike tours? I also appreciate you talking about not having much private space on a barge... that's something I haven't considered, and might be an issue with my husband, and then also my son with lack of space for him to run around (after biking!). So lots to consider.
Would you mind sharing the company you went with on this bike/barge trip? You can always private message me if you don't want to make it sound like an advertisement ! Thanks! |
lavandula That's a pretty funny story about you in Vienna. I am normally pretty okay with finding my way around, especially now that there is Google maps. But, for some reason in Brussels I really had problems.
yk I sent you a private message with details of the company/boat I used. I have preteen grandkids, and there is no way they would have fit in or enjoyed this particular trip. First of all, just think of the food your son likes to eat. Dinners here are set meals with no choice. I mention this solely because one of my kids just returned from a self-planned European family trip, and I was told my 'tween grandson had pizza for at least 2/3 of the meals. Another thing: apparently the kids (and the others are teen girls) favorite of the entire trip was swimming in one of the towns in the Cinque Terre. As I have researched cycling trips, I have noticed there are many companies that offer cycling trips targeted at families. I would start researching those because I think the right trip could be a lot of fun for a family. I would probably do a hotel based trip since it would give you more flexibility and more private space. Also, I wouldn't worry about your perceived lack of fitness since there are many rest stops and breaks. I have done other cycling trips where I did a lot more mileage, and at home I too think to myself that's way too much because I would never want to do this here but it works out. Good luck. |
Interesting trip report, Julies. I still remember you researching a Munsterland bike trip in Germany.
Seems like you didn't get to the Sablon in Brussels on this trip. A shame, it's one of the prettiest parts of the city. |
WeisserTee-- You have an incredible memory if you recall my looking into a trip to Munsterland because that was nearly two decades ago; it was a lovely self-guided trip.
As I said, my time in Brussels ended up being quite limited, and. as we all d when traveling, I had to make choices. |
juies, I completely understand why you chose the trip you did. Based on the costs I would have done the same. It is kind of shocking that Road Scholar don't offer singles a better deal, I am sure many older people would love to go on their trips but, like you, are put off by the expense.
Some of the bike/river cruises offer more freedom in as much as you can do your own thing along the way but still have the back-up of the crew if you need them, and I have seen a couple of Dutch sites with boats with some single cabins, mostly sail and cycle it's true, but I did find another one, forgot to bookmark it though! I admire you doing your cycling holidays, and learning how to do things on your own. I hope you can find another cycling holiday which offers you what you want. |
Hi julies--I've been away here and there for weeks, and while I've been reading your trip report, this is my first chance to get to reply.
First of all, kudos to you for doing the trip. Being alone just isn't pretty--and neither is aging. You seem to be determined to do this segment of life the way you once tackled a hill before e-bikes, and I am not only applauding here, but I'm also finding inspiration for my possible future. I gave away my bike at age 64, just around the time e-bikes became more of a thing, partly because my older husband had lost interest. The biggest factor personally for the decision was that my crumbling joints were making getting on and off the bike quite a task and quite a risk. But that does not mean I will shy away from travel as I go forward, and like you, I have to find ways to make it all possible while giving me a sense of independence. My husband and I kid each other now about who is going to go first, but we know it's coming. He turns 80 at the beginning of 2025, and while I'm a comparatively young 70.75, my genetics aren't pretty. We constantly inform each other now of where certain documents and certain passwords are, plus we each have become extra diligent about informing our girls where everything is in the house. FYI, we only did self-guided cycling and hiking in the US; abroad we always did guided tours except for one-day rentals here and there. Only one tour, thank goodness, was a "follow the mama duck"--and unlike with your tour, the company had failed to inform us of that. In fact, they implied in conversation that they were for expert cyclists! Pre-trip, I was actually worried I would not be able to keep up. Ha! They did provide directions like the other companies, but their directions were totally unreadable. I told my husband I'd like to submit them as examples as to why English teachers emphasize the importance of parallel structure. This company was also into group pictures every 2 miles. My teenage girls tried to keep a straight face and some semblance of a smile for the first ten, but eventually, they would just absent themselves from all shots. We quickly followed their example. In fact, we four decided to make the best of it, sneaking our bikes out after everyone returned to base to explore on our own at our own speeds and at our own whims. And you understand--it's not like we needed to get some sort of work-out or prove a point. Like you, we were cycling to get a feel, a vibe of wherever we are at, something that traveling in a car just can't deliver. For most of our tours, if we saw something we liked along the way, we could just stop and explore. "Mama Duck" tours just can't do that. But it does sound as though you had a good, well-educated guide and a darn good itinerary. I totally get how you can't explain that mileage per day isn't a problem to people who haven't done these. I, a non-athlete, remember doing 50 miles in pouring rain over mountain passes on a hybrid bike--but it wasn't as though I was doing 50 miles in an hour. One breaks everything up into segments. Rests. Eats. Enjoys it all. Takes it all in. Laughs with others. Cries on some inclines, but... Unlike you, one of the reasons I liked guided tours, though, was that I did not have to hike or bike with my husband. He doesn't have to be first--he's not competitive that way. He just has to keep going and going and going at his rate and that need frustrated me. Guided tours could accommodate his speed and allow me to enjoy mine, which was hardly turtle paced. Our two daughters found their own pacing individually, too. The idea one could opt out at lunch OR decide at last minute near the end of the day's regular routing to attempt another 20 miles was fantastic. I think you did well with your trip planning. I was so happy to read about what you did in Amsterdam and that you got to experience the non-party side of it all. On both our trips there, we were able to avoid most of that. I've just finished reading Hans Luijten's intensive biography of Van Gogh's sister-in-law Joanna Bonger, Jo van Gogh-Bonger: The Woman who Made Vincent Famous, and now I'm itching to read all of the letter translations she did and revisit all the Van Goghs I've seen throughout the Netherlands and France with those insights in mind. Your journey in Delft made me happy because I had gotten such a great feeling about the place and had been deprived of exploring it. It pleased me so much that you got into all the art in Bruges--like you, we used almost every entry possible on our art cards there. You made me laugh about the walking in circles in Brussels. We had the same thing happen on our most recent trip, mainly because we've grown to rely on Google Maps rather than upon our good ol' Streetwise fold-out maps, and when signals start bouncing off buildings and leading one astray, it's teeth gnashing time. Enough of that. Keep all of us posted about your next adventure. You have a fan club! BRAVO!!! AZ |
Julies - DH and I are contemplating a “bike and barge” so both your first thread and this one have been very helpful. Thank you
I’m interested in a “tour” where rather than mama duck style everyone is given directions for the day and you start and stop the day at the same location. The boat cruises at night or early in day. Do you know of any companies that do something like that? |
I, too was so interested in learning more about this trip. And I'm so sorry to hear of your loss. I admire you for forging ahead, as I'm sure it is incredibly hard at times. I will read this whole report when I'm not at work. ;-) Thank you for writing it.
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Rocket79--If you are willing to shell out, VBT and Backroads, among others, offer that style in various locations. My sister and her husband did ebikes with Backroads along the Danube, I believe. We ourselves did the trip old school (no boat, no ebikes) there and loved it.
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AlessandraZoe Thank you for the compliments on my forging ahead alone. But, for me anyway, doing guided, group cycling tours are the least worst option. I don't want to just say my life is over and stay at home. So, this is the choice I have made, and I will keep doing it for as long as I am able whether it's another month or another five years.
goingthere2 I can't answer your question about other companies that don't require you stick with the guide but also offer barge/boat trips. I have now taken 2 tours that were offered with guides from and under the auspices of boatbiketours.com. From my understanding, their company philosophy and guide system is that the group rides together, following the leader. I also think that some of the larger boats cruising the Rhine or Moselle, for example, have people just ride on their own and meet the boat every evening at its berth. A warning though that I heard for the captain of the barge I took: Make sure that this is a trip designed around cycling and cycle routes rather than it being a cruise where cycling is an option. I just tentatively (waiting to see if they have a single room) signed up for a hotel-based cycling tour with experienceplus.com. As I understand it, the guides mark the daily routes with chalk arrows and members of the tour ride at their own pace, alone or in a group. So, a different style altogether. Another major difference between this and a barge tour is that for a single supplement, it is only about a 15% premium over the double sharing a room price. But, as AZ said, these--VBT, Backroads, Experience Plus-- are very pricey trips. For people who have visited Europe before on their own and who don't need a ton of hand-holding and who are comfortable with not speaking the local language, I highly recommend just finding a local outfitter (after all these are the same people the major international cycling companies use as their on the ground operators) and doing a self-guided tour. We successfully did close to a half dozen of these and had a great time on our own. If my situation were different (and I so wish it were), that's what I would do. Sorry for the late replies, but I have been out of town. |
julies, another thought came to mind. Have you considered doing a trip, cycling or otherwise, with your pre-teen grandkids? A totally different take, you’d obviously have to structure it around the their interests, but this could be equally rewarding. Introduce them to travel and discovering a different culture and see the world through their eyes.
I know our mom greatly enjoyed traveling with her grandkids, though my sister or I was also always there. I myself have done several trips with my niece and nephew over the last 15 plus years and each one has been special. Once again , kudos for your attitude and approach to life, you’re an example to emulate! Whatever you decide, I wish you good health and many more years of travel… |
It is possible to do self guided tours within the Netherlands, hotel to hotel. You get to meet everyone at breakfast and supper where there is a set of maps handed out. Equally interesting.
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There are many many companies that offer self guided tours in Europe,. and the European based ones are normally cheaper, but also offer the tour in English.
Most offer luggage transfer and some, but not all start from places easily accessible by public transport if you are not, or even if you are, taking your own bike. They all offer the option of a hybrid or a pedal assist 25km/h max e-bike hire This company in France for instance: https://www.safrantours.com/en/self-...ccm_paging_p=1 No experience with them, I was just surfing and found them, a nice mix of routes on offer. Many companies offer tours in the Netherlands such as the 11 cities tour in Friesland or the Pieterpad by bike, the length of the country. Some companies offer women only tours too. The bike and barge trips on the Moselle are aimed at cyclists and offer your cycle routes to take, and meet up at the end of the day, or take a day off if you want. Here is trip report from an Australian who did such a trip with a friend a few years ago: https://uncoolcyclingclub.com/german-bike-and-barge/ |
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