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I love Paris.....in the summer.....when it sizzles....
I had that phrase in my head all last week when DH and I spent our 8 days in lovely Paris. It was HOT. Most days it was around 90 farenheit, and HUMID. The one day it cooled to around 80 it was raining. The weather really did slow us down, but we still had a fantastic time. This was the first trip for DH, second trip for me. Last trip for me was in February so I was stunned at how Paris changes with the seasons. It was like a whole new city! I must say I really enjoyed the damp, cool, empty Paris of winter, but the splendor of the gardens in June makes all the heat, the smell, the crowds, and the overflowing trash cans worthwhile.
I think it was mermaid who said that going to Paris with a girlfriend is a much different experience that going with your husband. So true! Paris has so many faces, and things that caught my attention when I was with Becky (usually storefronts!) went unnoticed this time, and vice versa. With my two Paris experiences, I can now see how one can go to Paris over and over and over and see a new city each time. DH was surprised at how much he enjoyed Paris, and he talks about going again with family or friends, so I'm hoping we have many more Parisian experiences to come. For those who are interested, I'll continue adding to this thread when I can with more details. Thanks to all who helped me organize the trip! |
<b> Our apartment </b>
We stayed in an apartment in the 16th, on Rue de Passy. What a steal this place was! It's a fairly new listing on vrbo, and the owners must be getting good feedback from all their clients because they are raising their prices for 2006. We were there 8 nights and it cost us 80 Euros a night. It's 45 square meters (a little over 500 square feet, I think) in a gated, secured, quiet apartment complex. Our windows and balcony overlooked the large, beautifully landscaped courtyard. We had hardwood floors, modern, comfortable furniture, and a separate room for the toilet. There's a shower, but no tub. There's also a washing machine. There are wooden shutters that go on the outside of the windows that we could pull down for privacy and to keep the place cool while we were gone. With the oscillating fan they provided, it never got uncomfortably hot inside the apartment. This apartment is owned by a young couple who lived there until recently (he's English, she's French but fluent in English). From what I gather, they started a family and decided to move out to the country. Despite being out of town, Michael was still Johnny-on-the-spot. One day there was an intense rain/hail storm (I'm from Oklahoma and this was REALLY intense). Somehow the rainwater backed up and came through a newly uncapped pipe in the kitchen, flooding the kitchen floor. We called the building caretaker, who immediatedly came up and assisted with damage control. We then called Michael, who was there a couple hours later to apologize, finish cleaning up, and cap the pipe. It's easy to be a good apartment owner when everything goes smoothly; the test is how they handle it when something goes wrong, and we were very impressed with Michael. We would (and might) stay here again. The Passy neighborhood is wonderful. It's pretty, with lots of upscale shops and restaurants, and is served by metro lines 6 and 9, and RER C. We felt like the only tourists in the neighborhood, which we liked, especially this time of the year. DH and I are both somewhat claustrophobic, so the sheer numbers of people on the streets in the more touristy neighborhoods seemed suffocating at times. It was nice to come "home" to our quiet little corner of Paris in the evenings. The only downside is that there are very few major attractions within walking distance, so we used the metro a LOT. Having said that, if you haven't hung out by the Trocadero in the evening, it is quite a spectacle! <b> Segway Tour </b> How fun was this!!! We went through Fat Tire Bike Tours, which is an American owned company. Ryan was our guide, a student at Texas A&M, in Paris for a summer job. Needless to say, he wasn't an expert on French culture, but still knew enough to give us a rough overview of the sights, and he was a fun guy to hang around with. We were with four other people and had so much fun navigating the streets of Paris on Segways. Other tourists were taking our picture as we zoomed by. This was DH's favorite activity and is now trying to fabricate and excuse to buy a Segway. It was I think 95 American dollars per person, but it was definitely worth it. The whole process, including getting used to riding the thing and lunch in the Tuileries, was 4-5 hours. We were hoping to do their nighttime bike tour later in the week, but we never seemed to have the energy. |
I'm glad you had a good time w/your DH. We leave Friday and rain is forecasted all week--and I was worried about how well the a/c would work in our apartment, ha!
I believe you stayed in the 16th and am curious to hear more about your experiences there and the apartment you rented. |
<b>Paris Walks</b>
We had planned on taking two of these tours: one on Friday for Hemingway's Paris, and another on Sunday for Montmartre. We so enjoyed Friday's tour that we added the Marais on Saturday. For both Friday and Saturday's tours, our guide was Peter Caine, the owner of Paris Walks and a published author (one of his books is "Paris Then and Now"). I cannot say enough good things about Peter. Not only is he extremely knowledgeable, but he has a true gift for storytelling. He's like the college professor that all the students want to get; his "lectures" are interactive, entertaining, and utterly fascinating. We hung on to his every word and felt so fortunate to have spent time with him. Sunday's tour was with a different guide. She was okay, but the 10 Euro fee didn't seem like the bargain it did with Peter's tours. After spending just a few hours with Peter, I can see how having a all-day guide like Michael Osman would be such a treat, and we may try to hire Michael next time around. |
Jocelyn, your Paris sounds so different from mine two weeks ago. No rain or humidity and cool evenings!! I was also interested to read about your apartment in the 16th - an area I havent stayed.
I havent been in Winter but am considering trying that next time. For an ingnorant Aussie - what is a Segway??? |
Thanks for the update on the apt/neighborhood--they both sound great. Could you post a link to the apt or the VRBO#? Thanks.
I'm looking forward to the rest of your report! |
Claude - a Segway is a posh electric scooter:
www.citysegwaytours.com/ |
Terrific trip report, Jocelyn! More, please.... :-)
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mvor, here's a link to the apt:
http://www.vrbo.com/47620 I'll post my own pictures, too. I forgot to add that the owners stocked the apt with laundry detergent, shampoo, soaps, dish detergent, kitchen sponge, paper towels, ice trays (much needed) and even some spices for the kitchen so all we needed from the grocery store was food. I'll post more later. |
Welcome back, Jocelyn!
Bummer about the heat but I am so glad that DH loved Paris too! When do you plan on going back? lol Did you use the laundry? We brought the laundry soap home, we liked it so much :) Looking forward to hearing more and seeing photos! |
Welcome back, Jocelyn!
We loved PARIS WALKS too. We did the Marais tour with a British guide named Jonathan. He was soooooooooo funny and had a strong resemblance to the actor Kenneth Brannagh. After that experience, we wanted to do the Montmartre tour but did not have the time. I wrote a short report on Marais boutique shopping if you are interested...I loved staying there and wandering around. Luckily I have a husband who enjoys shopping...yay! |
Hi Joc--
I'm so glad to hear that Curt enjoyed Paris!! I'm looking forward to seeing your pictures, especially of your Segway tour. I had another dream this weekend that I was in Paris. I think that's about my 7th dream about Paris since our trip in February. Keep the posts coming.... becky |
Thanks for the link!
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How funny -we did the Segway tour last spring - and our tour guide was also from Texas A&M - but his name was Mike. He had been working in Paris since the beginning of the year and was saving up money to go on a 3 month backpacking trip later that year.
I believe he said that many of the guides were from Texas - the company got its guides by "friend of a friend" recommendations. When we arrived back at the office at the end of the tour, we spoke with a few other employees - they were ALL from Texas. :D |
chepar,
We met a Mike at the Segway office--not sure if it's the same one. They were all such a hoot! They encouraged us all to come hang out with them anytime we got homesick or just wanted to speak English for awhile. And they sold us COLD, CHEAP water, lol. They're starting up Segway tours now in Vienna, Budapest, and another new city that I don't remember. DH has announced that we can now only visit cities that have Segway tours. :D Scarlett, Yes, we used the washer often. We pack really light, and as hot as it was, we went through two outfits a day (we'd come back to the apt, exhausted, around 5 in the afternoon, shower and change, then go back out for the evening), so I was doing a load of laundry every day. I know that's not appealing to a lot of people, but it only took a few minutes a day, and packing light gives you so much freedom. Hi Betty! I heard from someone on one of our Paris Walks Tours that there's an American guide (Brad?) who is excellent as well. They've got a good thing going there. Hi Becky :) |
<b>Metro</b>
As I said previously, we used the metro quite a bit. I debated getting a Carte Orange and trying to figure out the bus system, but decided to keep it simple and just get carnets. Baby steps, you know. We did witness some Americans being denied a Carte Orange at an adjacent ticket window, so I was happy with my decision. Anyway, we had the darndest time with our tickets. If we bought the carnet at the Passy metro stop, they'd always work there, but only about 25% of the time at other stations! We tried buying a carnet at another stop with the same result. Not that big a deal, as we could go to the window to exchange the ticket, but it got tiresome after awhile. The last day or two, we bought individual tickets and STILL had the same problem. We weren't doing anything different from station to station, so what was up?? |
<b>Giverny</b>
After reading islandmom's post "Magical Monet," I figured it would be worthwhile to get up early early to catch the 8:20 train to Vernon. We managed it, grabbed a taxi to Monet's house, and got to the ticket window 5 minutes before it opened. We still had plenty of company. While standing in line, I whispered to DH that we were going to "go long" as soon as we got in. "But I have to go to the bathroom" he says. Aarrgh! Those 3 minutes really cost us. We got caught up in the slow-moving line and inched our way over to the water lilies pond. It was still glorious, with the sun sparkling on the water. We made two slow laps around the pond, taking lots of pictures. What a treat for any Monet lover! I only wish I could have seen it at sunrise/sunset, or in solitude. I'm sure everyone else there felt the same way. :) As we came back by the entrance later in the afternoon, we realized it was still a good idea to come early, as there was a long line to get in. At cigalechanta's suggestion, we strolled over to the Hotel Baudy for lunch at their cafe. What a beautiful place! We were a little early for lunch, so we got to explore their rose garden. Most of the flowers were bloomed out, but it still smelled heavenly, and we were the only ones there at the time. We then sat in a gazebo under a cherry tree to shade ourselves from the sun until the cafe opened. The outdoor cafe was across the street, overlooking the green, rolling hills--just a perfect setting. We had a very pleasant lunch there. |
<b>Versailles</b>
Who cares about the palace, as those gardens are spectacular! We spent hours wandering through the wonderful maze, finding fountain after fountain. It felt nice and cool in the gardens and we enjoyed every minute of our time there. We stumbled on a cute little cafe and had a decent lunch in a magnificent setting. Sidenote: I was walking down a steep hill on a dirt path, distracted as I often am, and my shoe caught a big rock and down I went, headfirst! Now here's a good argument for wearing shorts! My hand and knee were scraped up pretty badly, and I still have massive bruises on my knee and hip. Back at the apartment, my surgeon hubby used a safety pin to dig out pebbles from under the skin in the palm of my hand. So, watch where you're going! Oddly enough, that evening as we were out strolling around after a big rain storm, we were going down a hill, DH stepped on a metal grate, and UP he went! He landed on his shoulder and elbow. I had to keep reminding him through dinner to not put his elbows on the table so he wouldn't get the white tablecloth all bloody. Funny, I don't remember seeing that in any etiquette books, but I'll bet that's a good rule of thumb... |
Great report - keep it coming! Sorry to hear about your injuries. I twisted my ankle on our first trip, and one of our friends managed to gash his leg on the top of the Arc de Triumph about a year ago. We ended up buying him this crazy spray that sort of freezes the wound area -- he thought it was magic, although it was 15 Euro for the can. You never imagine that the pharmacy will become part of your travel adventure!
We have an apartment that we rent out and one of our friends who stayed their got injured (fell down some stairs) while she was there and when she returned she suggested I make a little first aid kit to put in the apartment -- including an Ace bandage, which she tried to find at a local pharmacy to no avail. So I made a little kit buying a bunch of stuff (cold remedies, ibuprofen, Band-Aids, Tums, etc.) at Walgreens here at home and wouldn't you know it, but the last time we were there in May most of the supplies had been used up -- except the Ace bandage. Anyway, I'm going to restock it again in August and I'll be sure to add a few safety pins in there, too. You never know what will come in handy. :-) |
Lutece,
Your mention of the pharmacy jogged my memory--I also got an ear infection soon after we got to Paris! DH primitively diagnosed it as an external infection, so we did make that trip to the pharmacy for some ear drops. Luckily the drops cleared it up, as I had not scheduled a trip to a doctor in my itinerary. |
Jocelyn, I'm so sorry to read about your injuries--ouch! Glad you weren't more seriously hurt. Palace shmalace--we were perfectly content wandering through the gardens as well.
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Wonderful report, Jocelyn. I liked your phrase "go long!" I'll have to remember that one when we are debarking the plane, heading towards customs.
The Segway tours sound like so much fun -- I really wish we would have tried one of them. Guess I'll just have to return to Paris soon! |
<b>Serendipity</b>
Of course we visited the museums, churches, and sights that most people visit when they go to Paris. But I was hoping for something more. I wanted for us to stumble onto something unique that we didn't plan for. Wow, did we ever! We had no idea that every June 21 the entire country celebrates the summer solstice with a music festival. That was the day we went to Giverny. We got back to our apartment in the afternoon, rested up, then metroed out to the Latin Quarter, just to stroll around and find something interesting for dinner. We would then catch a sunset river cruise. We came out of the metro station along Blvd St. Germain and my first thought was "Wow, this area sure is more lively during the summer!" The sidewalks were packed, and on just about every street corner there was a band playing some sort of music. There was rock and roll, new age, bagpipes, and even a mash pit! We kept wondering if this was a typical summer Tuesday night in the Latin Quarter, lol. We grabbed some gyros, then waded our way through the crowds to the Luxembourg Gardens for a break from the action. Ha! Turns out this was the centerpiece of the festival, with a huge Brazilian percussion band entertaining in the gardens. We somehow got a spot along the railing, so we could look down and see the 50ish(?) member band walk along the path, with hundreds of people surrounding them, dancing. What a sight! By this point we figured there was something special going on. We stayed and watched for a long time, then slowly made our way to the Pont Neuf for our river cruise. There were countless bands set up along the quais, so as we lazed down the river we got to hear the different bands and watch all the locals have a great time. By the time the cruise was over, the party was really starting. The crowds had spilled out into the streets and Blvd St. Germain was impassable by car. We had a heck of a time trying to get back to a metro station, but we eventually did, and made it back to our quiet Passy neighborhood. Walking back to the apt from the metro station we came across one folksy band, with about 4 spectators. We were laughing, saying we were staying in the right place. Of course there may have been some goings-on that we didn't see, but we were so impressed that with that many people partying out in the streets, we didn't witness any violence or situations getting out of control. The mood was festive and people were just out having a good time. What a great way to experience the spirit of this great city. |
Jocelyn, I am glad you witnessed the "Fête de la Musique"... and you really picked the right place to sleep! Imagine, if you had chosen a hotel in the 6th or the Marais, I can tell you there was heavey partying in central Paris until the break of dawn. Actually, the whole Fête de la Musique scene has not always been that rosy. It's part of a string of early summer steet parties (FdM, Gay Pride, Bastille day) that draws lots of youths from the "banlieues" (suburbs), and things can sometimes go sour. A few years ago, they ransacked one of the last trains riding back to the outskirts. Since then, SNCF and RATP have woken up and are providing an all-night service on Fête de la Musique evening to avoid this type of problem. Police patrolling is quite heavy too, but the event seems to have found its balance, not unlike London's Notting Hill Carnival.
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We watched the party from our sixth floor balcony and bedroom window on rue Petit Pont and rue de la Huchette drinking wine with bread and cheese until about 11 p.m. We even toasted some revelers from our balcony. Then we closed our double-paned windows and got ready for bed - amazing how quiet it gets.
Hope to get my trip report done started soon. Lots of catching-up after two months. |
<b>Food/Wine</b>
We both love to eat, but neither of us are huge fans of French Cuisine, so we spent a lot of time perusing the vast array of ethnic foods that Paris has to offer. Generally we'd have breakfast in our apartment. I'd run across the street to the bakery (La Flute Enchanté, which was fabulous) to grab some bread and/or pastries, then we'd supplement with juice, fresh fruit (the cherries were in season), yogurt, ham, and cheese. Not a bad way to start the day. We'd usually have one meal a day in a cafe or bistrot, then Italian, Greek, Lebanese, or North African for the other. This was all supplemented with plenty of Berthillion ice cream. In case you were wondering, bitter chocolate and pear go together beautifully. Although we enjoyed most of our meals, the only restaurant I feel comfortable recommending with gusto is (this is what the business card says) "Le Bois de Vent, Fourchette d'Or de la Gastronomie Libanaise," not far the the La Muette metro stop in the 16th. DH and I love Lebanese food, and this was probably the best we've ever had. They had a special dinner for two, where they'd bring out 4 cold dishes, then 4 hot ones for 42 Euros. It was more food than we could handle and everything was absolutely fantastic. The staff was so welcoming! I had the feeling they don't get a lot of tourists, as they seemed surprised to see us and we were treated like kings. My husband, who is not a big wine drinker, is now hooked on Kirs. I'm having a hard time convincing him, though, that it's not just an expensive wine cooler. We had them every which way: the traditional cassis, peach, raspberry, you name it. Since I'm sadly coming to the conclusion that I don't like Bordeaux, we both had Kirs with almost every meal. |
Here are some pictures of the apartment and Passy neighborhood:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/s...;sm=1&sl=1 I'll share more pictures as I get them downloaded. |
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Jocelyn, I am really enjoying your report. It sounds like you and your husband had a great time. My husband said the same thing that your husband said- He loved it so much that he wants to go back one day. I am not sure if guys think Paris is a girlie-girl place or what, but they are sometimes surprised at how much they like it. Your apartment looks neat too, what a value!
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Not to digress, but Art Vandelay, I got a kick out of your name. I love to see Seinfeld fans because I am one myself (as well as Curb Your Enthusiasm.)
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Yes, and the 4th season is just out on DVD here in Europe. Yummy... On antoher forum, a poster named himself Bob Saccamano... well, that's level 3 at least!
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Thanks for sharing your report and pictures Jocelyn - the apartment looks lovely - we stayed in the 16th as well, last month - its the second time we've stayed in that area and I too enjoy the fact that its fairly quiet but you are still not far from many of the sites.
I am now regretting that I chickened out on the Segway tour That is unfortunate about your trouble with the metro tickets - I bought a carte orange and didn't have any trouble with it (other than the fact it took me half a day to find a functional photo booth to get my pic taken :) ) I am having major Paris envy! Whiskey |
I love Paris every moment.....every moment of the year.........I love Paris....why oh why do I love Paris...
because my love is near! ((8)) Now I have that song in my head. Great trip report, Jocelyn! |
Very good dsm! they are running through my head too LOL
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dsm, there's a funny story about that wonderful song. Fodorite "amarena" and I have been email buddies for some time now, and we joke about how we think alike. She and her husband took a trip to Paris this month, just before we did. A few months ago she burned a CD with some classic French songs, "I Love Paris in the Springtime" being one of them. She was kind enough to send me a copy.
We both wrote trip reports as soon as we got home. Unaware of what the other was doing, and obviously with the same song in our heads, she titled hers "I love Paris in the Springtime." She had better weather for her trip, or we may have had the same title! |
Oh Jocelyn, it is reports like yours that make me sad I have never been to Paris, but possibly something will work out one of these days. I so enjoyed reading about your adventures. And thank goodness neither of you were hurt any worse than you were. I have taken two falls in Italy and both times really hurt my right knee. Also hurt my dignity, LOL.
Lutece, what a good idea to supply your apartment with a first aid kit. Imagine tenants really appreciated your thoughtfullness. I always forget to pack anything in the way of first aid supplies which is so stupid of me. Oh how I want to visit Paris! |
That's a cute story. I like Cole Porter, and I got to sing a lot of his stuff at my last concert, so it's been top of mind.
Also in my head lately is "Too Darn Hot". It has been HHH and my husband has been complaining, he needs rain for his corn to grow. I think I replied to that post singing too! |
LoveItaly,
I know this is easier said than done, but watch for the airfare sales and just go. Don't think about it too much, just do it. Paris is such an easy city to navigate and feel at home in. With all you've been through lately, you could use a pick-me-up, and I can't imagine a better one than spending time in Paris. I hope your family situation is improving. Best wishes to you. ((L)) |
Joceyln, thank you for your thoughts. Yes the situation is much better. Daughter & SIL are home. Grandsons back home with them too. The entire family is tired of course but we made it through the month of June by working together and that sure helps. Now we are just hoping for a peaceful July. And all the legal things in Italy will have to be taken care of as they come up. Fortunatly in this case paperwork in Italy moves slowly so that is a blessing this time.
About Paris, there is possibly that there will be an invitation sometime down the road and if it works out I will certainly accept. My DH never wanted to go to Paris, what a shame, think he would have loved it (he was even part French so go figure, LOL). In the meantime I really enjoy beautiful reports like yours. Thank you for sharing your trip and thank you for your kind thoughts. Have a happy 4th of July weekend also! |
For all the posters here, new and old have a happy 4th
To you in Canada it is your day and layer the 14th for France. Let the fete begin! http://fransandree.tripod.com/lyrics/id80.html |
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