I love Paris in the Springtime - a trip report
Apr 6th, 2009, 07:03 PM
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I love Paris in the Springtime - a trip report
Background: This was my 11th trip to Paris, and my 7th solo trip. I've never posted a trip report on Fodors, so we will see how this goes. I am not a writer (math degree here), and I'm sure I will have spelling errors. I can speak French at an intermediate level. I'm 39, single, and childfree.
I go to Paris to escape, and to remind myself that no matter what life throws at me, I will always have Paris. Nothing bad ever happens (to me) in Paris. I wish I could say that about life at "home".
The food, culture, museums, parks, wine, people, shopping, coffee, monuments - they all give me pleasure and I'm always reminded of what Victor Hugo said, "To breathe the air of Paris preserves the soul." Indeed, for me, it does.
As you will read, I also went to Paris to catch up on much needed beauty sleep. Sleeping is in my top 10 of favorite things to do anywhere.
Day 0 - Sat March 28
United flight out of ORD, 20 minutes late taking off. Due to "last minute" bookings, the only seat left in economy was a middle seat. No way in hell was I going to take a middle seat for an 8 hour flight, so I paid an extra $97 for an aisle seat in economy plus. I complained about not being able to use any of my miles for econ plus.
Dinner was chicken curry with vegetables. I watched two movies, "The Day the Earth Stood Still" or some such, and I can't remember the other one. As usual, I didn't get a wink of sleep.
Day 1 - Sun March 29
Plane touched down at about 9:40 am. No checked bags. It seemed I had to walk longer than I can remember before because of renovations to terminal 1. Breezed through passport control and off to find a taxi. No wait for a taxi, and I was at my hotel Le Regent (rue Dauphine) by 10:30 or so. Cost of taxi was 50 euro including tip.
My room was not yet ready, so I dropped off my bag at had an express at Relais Odeon. It was about 55 - 60 degrees and partly cloudy. The coffee was excellent, and served with a delicious piece of dark chocolate.
I suddenly remembered that there is a bird market on Sundays near Notre Dame. And off I went. Walked up rue Dauphine and crossed over the Pont Neuf. Entered Place Dauphine, and looked for the painted cat on one of the buildings. About a dozen people were doing Tai-Chi (I think it was) and I watched them for a few minutes. Continuing on along the Quai de l'Horloge I gazed at the Conciergerie and then admired the clock for a bit.
I could hear the birds before I saw them. All kinds. Even roosters. I wondered who would come to city to buy a rooster? Are they allowed as pets? I took great delight in all the birdsong. There were also bunnies, and gerbils, and fish, and of course, flowers as is normal for days other than Sundays.
I figured my room would be ready, so I decided to stroll back to the hotel. Room 15, a courtyard view and lower floor just as I requested. This standard room is small, but fine for just me. Two people would be tripping all over each other. The nicest feature of the room is the bathroom which is entirely done in marble. Everything is spotless, though the carpet looks like it has seen better days.
I unpack. Freshen up. Then promptly collapse in my very comfortable bed for 6 hours.
I go to Paris to escape, and to remind myself that no matter what life throws at me, I will always have Paris. Nothing bad ever happens (to me) in Paris. I wish I could say that about life at "home".
The food, culture, museums, parks, wine, people, shopping, coffee, monuments - they all give me pleasure and I'm always reminded of what Victor Hugo said, "To breathe the air of Paris preserves the soul." Indeed, for me, it does.
As you will read, I also went to Paris to catch up on much needed beauty sleep. Sleeping is in my top 10 of favorite things to do anywhere.
Day 0 - Sat March 28
United flight out of ORD, 20 minutes late taking off. Due to "last minute" bookings, the only seat left in economy was a middle seat. No way in hell was I going to take a middle seat for an 8 hour flight, so I paid an extra $97 for an aisle seat in economy plus. I complained about not being able to use any of my miles for econ plus.
Dinner was chicken curry with vegetables. I watched two movies, "The Day the Earth Stood Still" or some such, and I can't remember the other one. As usual, I didn't get a wink of sleep.
Day 1 - Sun March 29
Plane touched down at about 9:40 am. No checked bags. It seemed I had to walk longer than I can remember before because of renovations to terminal 1. Breezed through passport control and off to find a taxi. No wait for a taxi, and I was at my hotel Le Regent (rue Dauphine) by 10:30 or so. Cost of taxi was 50 euro including tip.
My room was not yet ready, so I dropped off my bag at had an express at Relais Odeon. It was about 55 - 60 degrees and partly cloudy. The coffee was excellent, and served with a delicious piece of dark chocolate.
I suddenly remembered that there is a bird market on Sundays near Notre Dame. And off I went. Walked up rue Dauphine and crossed over the Pont Neuf. Entered Place Dauphine, and looked for the painted cat on one of the buildings. About a dozen people were doing Tai-Chi (I think it was) and I watched them for a few minutes. Continuing on along the Quai de l'Horloge I gazed at the Conciergerie and then admired the clock for a bit.
I could hear the birds before I saw them. All kinds. Even roosters. I wondered who would come to city to buy a rooster? Are they allowed as pets? I took great delight in all the birdsong. There were also bunnies, and gerbils, and fish, and of course, flowers as is normal for days other than Sundays.
I figured my room would be ready, so I decided to stroll back to the hotel. Room 15, a courtyard view and lower floor just as I requested. This standard room is small, but fine for just me. Two people would be tripping all over each other. The nicest feature of the room is the bathroom which is entirely done in marble. Everything is spotless, though the carpet looks like it has seen better days.
I unpack. Freshen up. Then promptly collapse in my very comfortable bed for 6 hours.
Apr 6th, 2009, 07:25 PM
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I wake up hungry. I look in the mirror and thank the hair goddess for her mercy upon me. I decide to go somewhere new (to me) for dinner. Ever since I read "A Moveable Feast" the Closerie des Lilas has been on my dining wish list. So off I went.
Walked by the Jardin du Luxembourg, along the rue de Vaugirad and rue Guynemer. Many people are out jogging, including one guy talking on his cell phone at the same time. Mmkay. I turn on rue Vavin until I hit the blvd Montparnasse. Go left or right? I don't know. I go right. Which was wrong. Not that I really cared.
Turning back around, I eventually see my destination. There is an outdoor terrace which is enclosed, and another terrace near the entrance. To my chagrin, the prettier enclosed terrace is non-smoking, so I chose the other because I'm not in the mood to quit smoking especially when I'm going to drink wine.
I ordered a glass of chablis. Then I ordered two entrees, a bowl of cream of scallop soup to which the waiter replied "tres bien" and pate de foie gras, to which the waiter replied "OK." And he was right. The soup was excellent, and the foie gras was acceptable. But this also came with a complimentary glass of sauternes which was more than acceptable.
From my table I could hear the piano player which was pleasing. After sufficient food and nicotine intake, I head inside to the bar to better hear the piano player and of course he stopped playing as soon as I ordered my second glass of chablis.
I down my wine, and hit the streets. I encounter a fountain which I admire on my way down boul Mich. I have a spring in my step, and a peace in my heart. All is right in the world, or so it seems to me.
Walked by the Jardin du Luxembourg, along the rue de Vaugirad and rue Guynemer. Many people are out jogging, including one guy talking on his cell phone at the same time. Mmkay. I turn on rue Vavin until I hit the blvd Montparnasse. Go left or right? I don't know. I go right. Which was wrong. Not that I really cared.
Turning back around, I eventually see my destination. There is an outdoor terrace which is enclosed, and another terrace near the entrance. To my chagrin, the prettier enclosed terrace is non-smoking, so I chose the other because I'm not in the mood to quit smoking especially when I'm going to drink wine.
I ordered a glass of chablis. Then I ordered two entrees, a bowl of cream of scallop soup to which the waiter replied "tres bien" and pate de foie gras, to which the waiter replied "OK." And he was right. The soup was excellent, and the foie gras was acceptable. But this also came with a complimentary glass of sauternes which was more than acceptable.
From my table I could hear the piano player which was pleasing. After sufficient food and nicotine intake, I head inside to the bar to better hear the piano player and of course he stopped playing as soon as I ordered my second glass of chablis.
I down my wine, and hit the streets. I encounter a fountain which I admire on my way down boul Mich. I have a spring in my step, and a peace in my heart. All is right in the world, or so it seems to me.
Apr 7th, 2009, 05:57 AM
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Yes, thanks for a lovely report. We have recently returned and I need to get going on my report. I commend you for your prompt action in posting yours. Enjoyed your reference to Place Dauphin. we "discovered" it on this last trip and it's now one of my favorite places in Paris. Quiet but in the middle of everything with great trees, nice shade, and cute bistros lining the streets. Quintessential Paris.
Apr 7th, 2009, 07:02 PM
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Thanks for the nice comments everyone.
Day 1 - continued
Strolling along boul Mich, past the Sorbonne I make a left on blvd St Germain. By now I'm ready for dessert and I head to Amorino on rue de Buci. I order a moyen of "caffé" and "undeniable" which is a chocolate concoction. One reason I like staying at Le Regent is it's proximity to Amorino. I sit at a table outside, and a passerby asks me, "C'est bon?" Mais oui!
Afterwards I head to Relais Odeon for a coupe de champagne. Then I have another. And another. The Relais Odeon has expanded it's terrace to double the size since I was last there (2 years ago). This seems to be a terrific business move as inside the place is nearly empty, due to the smoking ban I presume.
After a while I decide a change of scene is in order and I head down the street to café Mabillon. I go up to the bar and order a shot of Grey Goose. Business is slow at this hour on a Sunday I have the full attention of the wait staff. The bartender tells me he wants to live in NYC. I've never been to NYC, but I can't imagine wanting to leave Paris. He says after 24 years he's tired of it.
Next to me is a Turkish man from Boston doing business in Paris. I tell I him I've been to Boston, but never been to Turkey. I'm intriqued.
I go outside to have a smoke with one of the waiters. I'll call him Jacques. I'm quite taken with him, as he compliments me on my French. I tell him I could really use some private lessons. He asks how long I'll be staying in Paris, and how can he reach me.
Back inside at the bar, I have a complimentary glass of champagne waiting for me. Who am I to refuse such an offering?
Back outside for another smoke, the Turkish man leaves and asks to meet me the next night, but I'm too smitten with Jacques. Having eyes for only one man has always been my downfall. I smile and tell him I'm not sure if I can make it, and we exchange kisses on the cheek.
Eventually I decide my liver has taken enough abuse for one night, and I head home and fall into a blissful, peaceful slumber.
Day 1 - continued
Strolling along boul Mich, past the Sorbonne I make a left on blvd St Germain. By now I'm ready for dessert and I head to Amorino on rue de Buci. I order a moyen of "caffé" and "undeniable" which is a chocolate concoction. One reason I like staying at Le Regent is it's proximity to Amorino. I sit at a table outside, and a passerby asks me, "C'est bon?" Mais oui!
Afterwards I head to Relais Odeon for a coupe de champagne. Then I have another. And another. The Relais Odeon has expanded it's terrace to double the size since I was last there (2 years ago). This seems to be a terrific business move as inside the place is nearly empty, due to the smoking ban I presume.
After a while I decide a change of scene is in order and I head down the street to café Mabillon. I go up to the bar and order a shot of Grey Goose. Business is slow at this hour on a Sunday I have the full attention of the wait staff. The bartender tells me he wants to live in NYC. I've never been to NYC, but I can't imagine wanting to leave Paris. He says after 24 years he's tired of it.
Next to me is a Turkish man from Boston doing business in Paris. I tell I him I've been to Boston, but never been to Turkey. I'm intriqued.
I go outside to have a smoke with one of the waiters. I'll call him Jacques. I'm quite taken with him, as he compliments me on my French. I tell him I could really use some private lessons. He asks how long I'll be staying in Paris, and how can he reach me.
Back inside at the bar, I have a complimentary glass of champagne waiting for me. Who am I to refuse such an offering?
Back outside for another smoke, the Turkish man leaves and asks to meet me the next night, but I'm too smitten with Jacques. Having eyes for only one man has always been my downfall. I smile and tell him I'm not sure if I can make it, and we exchange kisses on the cheek.
Eventually I decide my liver has taken enough abuse for one night, and I head home and fall into a blissful, peaceful slumber.
Apr 7th, 2009, 07:17 PM
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Day 2- Mon March 30
I woke up at 9:30, took two aspirin and went back to bed for an hour or so.
Got up, and took a long hot shower. Badly needed. Went to Coffee Parisian on rue Princesse for breakfast. They specialize in American food. I order an orange juice, café creme, water, scrambled eggs with toast and hashbrowns. The beverages are terrific, the eggs pretty damn good, the toast was too dry (no butter or confiture) and the hashbrowns burned on one side and almost raw on the other. The place is packed full. Two Frenchwomen next to me are eating raw hamburgers and I almost wish I had ordered that.
At the metro Mabillion I buy a carnet of tickets. Even though I have three left from my last trip. Unused metro tickets seem to be valid for an indefinite period of time. I take ligne 13 out to the Basilique St Denis. It is a beautiful sunny day.
(to be continued)
I woke up at 9:30, took two aspirin and went back to bed for an hour or so.
Got up, and took a long hot shower. Badly needed. Went to Coffee Parisian on rue Princesse for breakfast. They specialize in American food. I order an orange juice, café creme, water, scrambled eggs with toast and hashbrowns. The beverages are terrific, the eggs pretty damn good, the toast was too dry (no butter or confiture) and the hashbrowns burned on one side and almost raw on the other. The place is packed full. Two Frenchwomen next to me are eating raw hamburgers and I almost wish I had ordered that.
At the metro Mabillion I buy a carnet of tickets. Even though I have three left from my last trip. Unused metro tickets seem to be valid for an indefinite period of time. I take ligne 13 out to the Basilique St Denis. It is a beautiful sunny day.
(to be continued)
Apr 9th, 2009, 08:27 AM
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luv I have my GB singing "I love Paris in the springtime"..
I am so loving your TR. Can't wait to read more. Don't make us wait too long. I'm home nursing a head cold alone. Even though I have taken care of my DH and DD all week with the same thing. They leave me home alone. Those dogs, well maybe that's not too bad, I can at least hang out on fodors with no one bugging me.
I am so loving your TR. Can't wait to read more. Don't make us wait too long. I'm home nursing a head cold alone. Even though I have taken care of my DH and DD all week with the same thing. They leave me home alone. Those dogs, well maybe that's not too bad, I can at least hang out on fodors with no one bugging me.
Apr 9th, 2009, 11:00 AM
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Do you just stay in the center of Paris. That would be a real shame. I remember a café across from the entrance to the Buttes Chaumont where I drank a few items to be fortified, and when I finally climbed up the cupola at the top of the park, I watched Paris spinning at my feet.
