I love Paris in the Springtime - a trip report
 

Background: This was my 11th trip to Paris, and my 7th solo trip. I've never posted a trip report on Fodors, so we will see how this goes. I am not a writer (math degree here), and I'm sure I will have spelling errors. I can speak French at an intermediate level. I'm 39, single, and childfree.

I go to Paris to escape, and to remind myself that no matter what life throws at me, I will always have Paris. Nothing bad ever happens (to me) in Paris. I wish I could say that about life at "home".

The food, culture, museums, parks, wine, people, shopping, coffee, monuments - they all give me pleasure and I'm always reminded of what Victor Hugo said, "To breathe the air of Paris preserves the soul." Indeed, for me, it does.

As you will read, I also went to Paris to catch up on much needed beauty sleep. Sleeping is in my top 10 of favorite things to do anywhere.

Day 0 - Sat March 28

United flight out of ORD, 20 minutes late taking off. Due to "last minute" bookings, the only seat left in economy was a middle seat. No way in hell was I going to take a middle seat for an 8 hour flight, so I paid an extra $97 for an aisle seat in economy plus. I complained about not being able to use any of my miles for econ plus.

Dinner was chicken curry with vegetables. I watched two movies, "The Day the Earth Stood Still" or some such, and I can't remember the other one. As usual, I didn't get a wink of sleep.

Day 1 - Sun March 29

Plane touched down at about 9:40 am. No checked bags. It seemed I had to walk longer than I can remember before because of renovations to terminal 1. Breezed through passport control and off to find a taxi. No wait for a taxi, and I was at my hotel Le Regent (rue Dauphine) by 10:30 or so. Cost of taxi was 50 euro including tip.

My room was not yet ready, so I dropped off my bag at had an express at Relais Odeon. It was about 55 - 60 degrees and partly cloudy. The coffee was excellent, and served with a delicious piece of dark chocolate.

I suddenly remembered that there is a bird market on Sundays near Notre Dame. And off I went. Walked up rue Dauphine and crossed over the Pont Neuf. Entered Place Dauphine, and looked for the painted cat on one of the buildings. About a dozen people were doing Tai-Chi (I think it was) and I watched them for a few minutes. Continuing on along the Quai de l'Horloge I gazed at the Conciergerie and then admired the clock for a bit.

I could hear the birds before I saw them. All kinds. Even roosters. I wondered who would come to city to buy a rooster? Are they allowed as pets? I took great delight in all the birdsong. There were also bunnies, and gerbils, and fish, and of course, flowers as is normal for days other than Sundays.

I figured my room would be ready, so I decided to stroll back to the hotel. Room 15, a courtyard view and lower floor just as I requested. This standard room is small, but fine for just me. Two people would be tripping all over each other. The nicest feature of the room is the bathroom which is entirely done in marble. Everything is spotless, though the carpet looks like it has seen better days.

I unpack. Freshen up. Then promptly collapse in my very comfortable bed for 6 hours.

I wake up hungry. I look in the mirror and thank the hair goddess for her mercy upon me. I decide to go somewhere new (to me) for dinner. Ever since I read "A Moveable Feast" the Closerie des Lilas has been on my dining wish list. So off I went.

Walked by the Jardin du Luxembourg, along the rue de Vaugirad and rue Guynemer. Many people are out jogging, including one guy talking on his cell phone at the same time. Mmkay. I turn on rue Vavin until I hit the blvd Montparnasse. Go left or right? I don't know. I go right. Which was wrong. Not that I really cared.

Turning back around, I eventually see my destination. There is an outdoor terrace which is enclosed, and another terrace near the entrance. To my chagrin, the prettier enclosed terrace is non-smoking, so I chose the other because I'm not in the mood to quit smoking especially when I'm going to drink wine.

I ordered a glass of chablis. Then I ordered two entrees, a bowl of cream of scallop soup to which the waiter replied "tres bien" and pate de foie gras, to which the waiter replied "OK." And he was right. The soup was excellent, and the foie gras was acceptable. But this also came with a complimentary glass of sauternes which was more than acceptable.

From my table I could hear the piano player which was pleasing. After sufficient food and nicotine intake, I head inside to the bar to better hear the piano player and of course he stopped playing as soon as I ordered my second glass of chablis.

I down my wine, and hit the streets. I encounter a fountain which I admire on my way down boul Mich. I have a spring in my step, and a peace in my heart. All is right in the world, or so it seems to me.

thank you, I love paris in the springtime too, and your report!

Oh thank you! I need a Paris fix. Can't wait for more.

Hi luv..I am going to love your trip report..I already do! And the hair goddess, yes that is a good description!

Nice trip report.

I will be on my way a week from today!

Joan

Thanks for deciding to post your trip report! I'm enjoying your writing style (math degree notwithstanding...)

Yes, thanks for a lovely report. We have recently returned and I need to get going on my report. I commend you for your prompt action in posting yours. Enjoyed your reference to Place Dauphin. we "discovered" it on this last trip and it's now one of my favorite places in Paris. Quiet but in the middle of everything with great trees, nice shade, and cute bistros lining the streets. Quintessential Paris.

Luv - awesome job so far. We leave in five (long) weeks and reading your description of everything only heightens the anticipation. We must check out Place Dauphin.

Thanks for posting. I leave in 6 weeks (sigh). Can't wait for more.

TR

We leave in 3 weeks. It will be my first time in Paris. Very excited.

KMS

What hotels are you staying at? My husband and I are going at the end of June and are looking for recommendations.

Thanks for the nice comments everyone.

Day 1 - continued

Strolling along boul Mich, past the Sorbonne I make a left on blvd St Germain. By now I'm ready for dessert and I head to Amorino on rue de Buci. I order a moyen of "caffé" and "undeniable" which is a chocolate concoction. One reason I like staying at Le Regent is it's proximity to Amorino. I sit at a table outside, and a passerby asks me, "C'est bon?" Mais oui!

Afterwards I head to Relais Odeon for a coupe de champagne. Then I have another. And another. The Relais Odeon has expanded it's terrace to double the size since I was last there (2 years ago). This seems to be a terrific business move as inside the place is nearly empty, due to the smoking ban I presume.

After a while I decide a change of scene is in order and I head down the street to café Mabillon. I go up to the bar and order a shot of Grey Goose. Business is slow at this hour on a Sunday I have the full attention of the wait staff. The bartender tells me he wants to live in NYC. I've never been to NYC, but I can't imagine wanting to leave Paris. He says after 24 years he's tired of it.

Next to me is a Turkish man from Boston doing business in Paris. I tell I him I've been to Boston, but never been to Turkey. I'm intriqued.

I go outside to have a smoke with one of the waiters. I'll call him Jacques. I'm quite taken with him, as he compliments me on my French. I tell him I could really use some private lessons. He asks how long I'll be staying in Paris, and how can he reach me.

Back inside at the bar, I have a complimentary glass of champagne waiting for me. Who am I to refuse such an offering?

Back outside for another smoke, the Turkish man leaves and asks to meet me the next night, but I'm too smitten with Jacques. Having eyes for only one man has always been my downfall. I smile and tell him I'm not sure if I can make it, and we exchange kisses on the cheek.

Eventually I decide my liver has taken enough abuse for one night, and I head home and fall into a blissful, peaceful slumber.

Day 2- Mon March 30

I woke up at 9:30, took two aspirin and went back to bed for an hour or so.

Got up, and took a long hot shower. Badly needed. Went to Coffee Parisian on rue Princesse for breakfast. They specialize in American food. I order an orange juice, café creme, water, scrambled eggs with toast and hashbrowns. The beverages are terrific, the eggs pretty damn good, the toast was too dry (no butter or confiture) and the hashbrowns burned on one side and almost raw on the other. The place is packed full. Two Frenchwomen next to me are eating raw hamburgers and I almost wish I had ordered that.

At the metro Mabillion I buy a carnet of tickets. Even though I have three left from my last trip. Unused metro tickets seem to be valid for an indefinite period of time. I take ligne 13 out to the Basilique St Denis. It is a beautiful sunny day.

(to be continued)

Enjoying this and hoping for more soon! DH and I ate at Clos on our last trip. He was so tickled when 2 French folks asked what he'd ordered.

Sounds like a great trip!

Loving your report!!! We will be back in Paris in Sept and then again for New Years...cant wait!

Love your report - can't wait for more!

luv I have my GB singing "I love Paris in the springtime"..

I am so loving your TR. Can't wait to read more. Don't make us wait too long. I'm home nursing a head cold alone. Even though I have taken care of my DH and DD all week with the same thing. They leave me home alone. Those dogs, well maybe that's not too bad, I can at least hang out on fodors with no one bugging me.

Do you just stay in the center of Paris. That would be a real shame. I remember a café across from the entrance to the Buttes Chaumont where I drank a few items to be fortified, and when I finally climbed up the cupola at the top of the park, I watched Paris spinning at my feet.

analogue, there is no shame in missing something because we all enjoy what we do see and love what we return to.

luveurup, I love paris anytime at all. As soon as I'm feeling better I'll post mine, meanwhile I'll enjoy your Paris.

Great trip report - eagerly awaiting the rest.

Mawmaw - did you have the cold before or after your Starbuck's visit in your sandals???

Enjoying your report... waiting for the rest.

Enjoying this a lot. Looking forward to your next installment.

Royal, After the sandals at Starbucks. My DH actually went to the Dr. earlier this week because he had a chest cold, seems me and my DD both have it. Ran into a friend that day and he let me have it about the "open toed shoes" I was wearing..

Thanks again for comments.

Day 2 - continued

The Basilique St Denis is quite spectacular. I walk inside and soon realize part of it is partitioned off, go back outside pay the fee, and continue on my visit. I see a plaque that says Jeanne d'Arc was here in 1429, wow. For those who might not know, most of the royals (or thier remains) are emtombed here. I really like the crypt.

Back upstairs there are some magnificent statues, stained glass, and royal garments. I can't believe it took me 11 trips to finally get out here.

Outside there is a small reception area with a video (in french) about the Basilique. Actually, I could have waited a bit for the English version, but I didn't.

I decide to walk around a bit, down some main drag, and I can't believe how much cheaper everything is out here. I see 3 euro shoes and 10 euro dresses. Unbelieveable. Lots of people are out on this sunny day, it is just gorgeous.

I miss Paris, and hop back onto the metro. I get off at place de Clichy, and walk down blvd des Batignolles. My stomach is making noises, so I decide to stop by a traiteur (sp?) for a quick bite to eat. I order meat lasagne, haricots verts, and a coke. Cheap eats for about 7 euro, and perfectly suitable to quiet my stomach rumblings.

My current destination is the parc des Batignolles, and it is quite splendid. (I would be spending a lot of time in parcs this trip as the weather demanded it). I walked around a bit, watching the people and the ducks, and sat for a spell.

After getting my parc fix, I get a sudden urge to shop. I pull out my map, and decide it would be a pleasant walk to Printemps. Walking down rue de Rome past the Gare St Lazare.

I've never been inside Printemps so this is a first. I wander around looking at purses. I'm torn. A saleswoman asks me if I need help, and I tell her I'm not used to so many choices. The selection is just huge.

I tell myself to forget about the "luxe" selection upstairs, but damn my good memory. I walk upstairs and my credit cards start planning their revolt against me.

I walk into Dior. I'm still torn.

I walk into Gucci, and there I find what I'm looking for. Ahhh. I nearly cry with anticipation of walking the streets with this beauty.

I'll take it.

"The charge has been refused."

"Say WHAT??? Try again please."

"It's refused."

I'm livid. Absolutely lived. (Not at the saleswoman, at Capitol One who I called prior to my trip to advise them of my travel plans.)

I ask her to please call Cap One, and she says that she can't make an international call. I want to scream and cry at the same time, but instead I say that I will take care of whatever problem Capitol One has, and I will be back tomorrow.

I can honestly say, I've never been more pissed off (in Paris) than in that moment. I've never had a credit charge denied in my life, and I really wanted to strangle someone.

I metro-ed back to the hotel, called Capitol One and spoke to someone in India. They don't why the charge was refused, as I have over $20K in available credit, "These things happen." Gee thanks. I told the woman in India I would be none too happy if it happened again, and if it did I would be closing my account.

I have a friend who lives in the 16th arrt, I'll call her Monique, and I promised her I would call on Monday, so I did. She was heading out to a dance club, and ask me to join her. In theory, it sounded like a wonderful idea, but for some reason which I fail to understand, jet-lag always seems to hit me on my second day of a trip, and not the first. (Go figure.)

So I regrettfully declined a night out dancing, and collapsed in bed.

Well alright for flirting with a French waiter in Paris!!! Cool TR. Keep it coming!

~Jay

I will never forget how mortified my father was once when his Visa card was refused in a restaurant. Not one penny of debt to his name and here he was inviting the entire French side of the family to lunch when it happened. I thought he would drop through the floor. (I paid with my card and he reimbursed me.)

luveurop, on my last trip to Paris, I stayed in a wonderful apartment in Les Batignolles. I loved the area. Just curious, what made you seek out le parc des Batignolles? Wasn't it charming?

Thanks again for sharing.

Irego the weather was just gorgeous, and I've had a "plan" for years to try to visit all the parks and green spaces in Paris.

Kerouac thanks for sharing your experience.

Day 3 - Tues March 31

Woke up at 4 am. Decide this would be a good time to call friends back home. Had a beer and a cigarette and went back to bed.

Woke up again at about 11 am. Out the door in a flash, it is sunny and warm. People are wearing shorts and flip flops. I'm so glad I brought my sandals. I head to Laduree on rue Bonaparte. I order a café creme, OJ, and a salmon club sandwich, which is served with a small green salad. All very good.

On this gorgeous day I decide to head to the Tuileries. I sit for a good long while. I contemplate if I really need a Gucci purse. I picture myself leaving Paris without said purse, and the thought makes me shiver.

I head to Printemps. My purse is waiting for me. I said, "Oh you knew I'd be back didn't you?" And she said, "Yes I could tell." lol

I admire the Opera Garnier and sit on the steps for awhile.

I head down ave de l'Opera, and stop at Monoprix. I leave Monoprix and happen by a café where an old "friend" worked, last I heard. I don't see him, so I leave.

I walk through the Palais Royal. The part with the bizarre posts/art work is under construction. I admire the flowers and the fountain. I window shop. In one shop is a letter from Napolean I. I don't see a price. And there is a letter from Cardinal Richelieu for 1900 euro.

I walk through the Louvre courtyards, and admire such. I stop on the Pont des Arts for a spell. It is so sunny and hot I'm almost sweating.

I walk, walk, walk some more around the rue de Buci area. I stop by Relais Odeon for a coupe de champagne, then head back home. I take a 1/2 hour nap.

I get up and dress for dinner. Where's dinner? Good question. I'm determined to find something that will knock my socks off tonight.

Day 2- continued

I spend some time at the reception desk. My "wish list" of restos, they are either full or the line is busy. Madame suggests "Les Bouquinistes" which I have heard of, and they have a table for me.

I am warmly welcomed, and I have a table by the window. This resto is small, and modern. I order a coupe de Champagne, and an amuse of carrot soup arrives. Delicious. I devour it in seconds. My entrée is crab and lobster cakes with beets and artichokes. Hands down the best crab cakes I've ever had in my entire life. My plat is pan seared foie gras, served with mangoes and red peppers. Very good. My dinner wine is chablis. I pass on dessert, and order an express which comes with not one, but two pieces of dark chocolate. Parfait. I'm delighted by the whole experience, and will definitely return.
http://www.lesbouquinistes.com/

I walk back home for a quick change of shoes, then I go back to Relais Odeon for more champagne. I get the urge to see the sparkling Eiffel Tower. I head to the Pont des Arts. I swear I made it on time to see the midnight show, so I waited. And waited. I gave up and walked towards Notre Dame. All lit up.

People are playing boules well past midnight now. I admire the details of Notre Dame, it is quiet and peaceful, and I love Paris.

I walk to the Ile St Louis. It is a beautiful night. Just perfect. I stroll along without a care in the world. An elderly Frenchman stops and asks me where is the nearest metro.

Oops, that should say day 3 above.

Back on the Ile St Louis- I tell the gent that there is no metro on Ile St Louis and I think the nearest one is St Michel. I now realize my mistake, it's actually Pont Marie. Continuing my stroll an auto and a bike almost collide along the Quai d'Orleans.

To my surprise the Tower lights up! Yeah, sparkles! A couple walking by completely ignore it, I guess they take it for granted. Then Notre Dame goes dark.

By now I'm ready for dessert and I head to Le Petit Pont. The place is packed, and there is a band playing. I order a coupe de Champagne, and chocolate ice cream with strawberries and cream. The ice cream comes with a lit sparkler.

Leaving, I walk down rue St Andres des Arts. It is quiet. I head to Café Mabillion where I order a grand Sancerre blanc. Jacques isn't there. I'm sad, and need a change of scenery. I go to Café de Buci where I order a petit Sancerre blanc. I want to go dancing, but I'm not sure where to go on a Tuesday night/Weds morn. I ask around without much luck.

I head to Pub St Germain, where the music is good but no dancing. I order two White Russians, and watch a fascinating fashion show on the TV. Soooo much better than sports!

I decide I've given my liver enough of a workout for one night, and head to bed at about 5 am.

.... hey, is there more?.... ! (<i>please?)</i>

luverurop- please continue- enjoying and taking notes for my trip in May...
Hope you found Jacques before you have to leave.

Yes there is more! Sorry all. Got very busy with work and I also caught the swine flu. And then I went out of town for a week.

Day 4 - Weds April 1

Woke up at 6 am due to a screaming man in an adjacent room. I have no idea what that was about. Finally fell back to sleep and woke again refreshed at the crack of noon.

It is hot again today, I simply cannot believe this weather! Too gorgeous for words. I find a nice shady spot at Café de Flore. I order a jambon and fromage omlet, and a café creme. It hits the spot, and my waiter is very friendly and attentive even though the café was packed.

On this beautiful day I head to my favorite park, the Jardin du Luxembourg. I walk around and look at the statues, including the statue of liberty. I think maybe one day I'll get to NYC and see the big one.

I spend a lot of time in the jardin just basking in the sunshine and practicing my human being routine, instead of my usual human doing. Of course the jardin is popular today and is great for people watching.

I hear a brass band playing. Where is it coming from? I decide to get off my bum and go for a look. I don't see the band anywhere, but can tell I'm getting closer. Ah, it must be outside the park! I find the band playing just outside near the Médicis fountaine. They are good and loud of course, and attracted quite a crowd.

I decide I better head back to get ready for dinner. Walking past the backside of St Sulpice I hear the organ playing. I stand and listen near a window and am mesmerized.

Continuing on my stroll back "home" what is this I see? A champagne store! I don't think I've ever been in a store that only sells champagne. Of course I must enter. It is a small store, but nicely done. The owner, I presume, is happy to accommodate me. He is surprised at my knowledge of some of the lesser known (in US) champagnes. I tell him about a champagne tasting I went to and point out this bottle and that bottle, and he nods approvingly. I leave with a demi-bouteille of Gosset Grande Reserve Brut. He wraps a small flute as a souvenir for me.

Back at the hotel I change for my splurge dinner at the Ritz!

Great report...keep it coming.

...and I too, head for the nearest Amorino's for gelato.

SS