|
Thanks so much for sharing your adventures with us, Mel. It's great to get a window into what you experienced but also brings back (very old) memories.
|
I’m also glad you’ve returned and writing up a full TR. Thanks! I’m so needing the virtual travel.
|
Thanks for reading along dreamon and Adelaidean. I fully appreciate the need for virtual travel after the past few years.
|
Mel, this was your best title yet.
I am done. the spots |
Getting to know you
The Douro Region is classified as UNESCO World Heritage and is in the oldest demarcated wine region in the World…yet it wasn’t quite what we expected. Breakfast in the hotel felt rather regimented; the breakfast room was cordoned off, as if they expected interlopers to descend on their buffet. We showed our hotel key and were directed to a table. Coffee was brought to the table and we were let loose on the buffet. It was sufficient, but not outstanding, and we preferred the offerings (and friendliness) of our Porto hotel. It was a chilly 6c when we walked to the station to board the 9:46 train (which was running late) from Pinhão to Pocinho in the Alto Douro, along the Douro River. I’d read this was a good way for those of us without a car to see the prettiest bits of the region (€9.60 each, return). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dbd4e7e82a.jpg Pinhão train station https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...186163a1d8.jpg Pinhão train station The Linha do Douro is considered one of the most picturesque railways in Europe and enables one to see more of the region than from a boat, as the one day cruise boats only travel as far as Pinhão. According to the information board on the train, this, the Douro line, was initially intended to connect Porto with the Douro wine region, with Pinhão as the terminal station. Then plans were changed to extend the line into Spain. The train was near empty, the other passengers doing the same, taking the train just for the scenery. We were both surprised at the size of the multi-day cruise boats motoring along the Douro. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5aad46cc8a.jpg Aboard the train https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b2c4736bd.jpg Cruise boats on the Douro https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b011f68a95.jpg Douro River https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4cdbbdcf8.jpg Near Pocinho https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca7c8b2f55.jpg Douro River There wasn’t much to Pocinho; where the train sat at the station for 20 minutes, then returned the way it had come. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df4374c1c5.jpg Return to Pinhão https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70f7753ab8.jpg Return to Pinhão https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...556ece2d9c.jpg Return to Pinhão https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d6a34527f3.jpg Return to Pinhão https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...647bb3129e.jpg Return to Pinhão We really enjoyed the ride; it provided some nice views of the terraced vineyards and was pretty enough, but I certainly wouldn’t call it one of the most picturesque railways in Europe. The number and size of the various wine estates (quintas) surprised us, each marked with a massive sign perched up on the terraced hills. Back in Pinhão we sought out Veladouro, a place Maribel had suggested we try. We mistakenly tried to follow my GPS, which led us back through town – no restaurant. Baffled, I finally gave in and asked a shopkeeper, who told us to walk down the hill to the waterfront. Voilà! Now I get it. This is what brings people to Pinhão. This, the waterfront, is the main attraction! Quite the contrast from the ugly town center we’d been wandering through. Down here were the restaurants, the paved promenade and the pretty river views. This was more like it. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b749d554de.jpg Pinhão riverfront https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f4ebad9ca.jpg Pinhão riverfront We located Veladouro, sat outside and were told to consult the menu on the outside of the building. We did, both choosing the Caprese salad (a Maribel recommendation). We were told it was unavailable. So, I ordered the Caesar salad and Bill the tuna, and were told neither was available. Then we were told nothing on the wall menu was available, and were referred to the QR code menu. This seemed weird, especially since newly arriving patrons were sent to the wall menu too. After a few minutes a guy comes out and tells us they have one Caprese salad available after all, so we order it to share. It was massive, plenty for two, and very good. Halfway through our meal, the waiter comes out and tells us the tuna has just arrived if we want to wait, and points to a boat. Almost full, Bill takes a pass, but a shame as it would have been incredibly fresh. We also shared a slice of sponge cake in port reduction with walnut ice cream and ½ liter of house wine – all very good, and really good value (€21.50 – salad €12, wine €5, dessert €4.50). The Pinhão food situation was looking up. Before leaving we booked in for dinner the next night; not knowing what food might be available, but willing to find out. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be9d08d878.jpg Caprese salad https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...969f50090c.jpg Sponge cake in port reduction with walnut ice cream Later we walked up to Quinta da la Rosa, crossing the bridge and heading uphill alongside the river, following yet another pedestrian unfriendly narrow road, stepping off as far as possible whenever a car came speeding past, wondering if we’d make it to the Quinta alive. Before leaving home I’d booked us in for tapas and wine from 3-5 in their restaurant Cozinha da Clara. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0b0841f5b.jpg When planning this trip and with Maribel’s generous help, I’d researched all the wineries within walking distance of Pinhão and had explored what each offered in terms of meals, tastings, etc. Most quintas seemed to specialize in tastings combined with tours. We weren’t really interested in a tour, so we opted to take a different approach. When we arrived the patio was busy with the lunch crowd, but it soon cleared out and we had the entire patio (and the restaurant) to ourselves for two hours. I thought they offered wine flights, but we didn’t see any on the menu, so we ordered a bottle of Rose and a plate of bread and cheese, then sat back to soak up those Douro views, which offered an entirely different perspective than from the unappealing town center. We also shared a glass of 20 year old tawny – a thoroughly enjoyable experience and more of what we’d been hoping for from the Douro (€43 Euro). Lovely indeed. It was a beautiful day; the wind had been blowing since we arrived in Portugal and we were both wind and sun burned. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56161697b4.jpg Quinta da la Rosa https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efa1737b77.jpg View from our outdoor table at Quinta da la Rosa https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3abe10eb56.jpg Quinta da la Rosa We followed the narrow road back to town, stopping to admire the massive empty-looking cruise boats that were docked alongside the river, wondering if we were looking at our future - old people travel. Crew members were cleaning, we didn’t see any passengers. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d793fb9e27.jpg Swiss boat on Douro https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34e00d4652.jpg Swiss boat on Douro Then it was back to the hotel to claim our free drink in the library bar (port tonic) and to watch the world go by. It’d been a boozy day, but that’s why we’d come, for the wine. We were both feeling much better about Pinhão. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c26ad44dc.jpg Vintage House, Riverside entrance To be continued... |
Originally Posted by zebec
(Post 17378194)
Mel, this was your best title yet.
I am done. the spots |
I am thrilled to see your report, your pictures are wonderful and I'm soaking it all in. I spent 11 days in Portugal in 2019 before the pandemic, and your pictures are letting me relive that trip. In some of your pictures of Porto I see the apartment on the river we stayed in. I have never drank so much wine before or after that trip, I guess I really liked that port wine. Fabulous country and wonderful people. I also agree about GPS in Porto, I thought it was just me, but I could not get it to work at all.
|
barbrb - Good to hear we weren't alone in our wine/port consumption! We had to dry out when we got back home:)
|
Tramping amongst the naked vines
Our hotel had offered to make a booking for a port tasting at Quinta da Roêda which was offering a “special campaign” of €7 & €9 tastings, so we booked in for 2:15. As we wandered near our hotel, a passing local saw us looking at the Quinta da Roêda sign, and told us it was a two km walk to the Quinta. Today’s plan was to undertake the self-guided pedestrian tour at Quinta das Carvalhas (realcompanhiavelha). We figured it was a good way to get some exercise, take in the views and sample more port. As we walked across the bridge, I realized that we’d tasted their port in Porto. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd116290bb.jpg Bridge to Quinta das Carvalhas https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7527a87e4.jpg Orange trees https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28a8aa3033.jpg Pinhão as seen from other side of the bridge https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd405d5e58.jpg Pinhão We paid €10 each for access to the trail, to be followed by port tasting in the Quinta. We were led to the start of the walk and given a map, advised it was nine kilometers and would take two hours. It was enjoyable…at first. Even with map in hand, it was confusing. Either the trail was poorly marked, or we weren’t on it. The trail – assuming we were on it – was steep and rugged in spots. We’d expected it to be a loop, but that’s not what we walked. It was closed at one point by a chain, forcing us to turn around. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0393d500db.jpg Vineyard trail? We felt like we’d never find our way back down to the Quinta. That’s the nature of a trail that zig zags up and down a terraced vineyard…you must zig a long way across, and then zag a long way down. The winding switchbacks had us retracing our steps. We could see Quinta da Roêda on the opposite side of the river, taunting us, very close as the crow flies, but worlds away from our perch on the terraced vineyard. The vines here were just beginning to bud, the terraces brown and dusty. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ad1f7d79b.jpg Quinta da Roêda as seen from trail at Quinta das Carvalhas I called our hotel, asking them to please cancel our tasting at Quinta da Roêda, as there was no way we’d make it down all those zig-zags, across the bridge and two kilometers down the opposite side of the river by 2:15. Thinking we were lost, we sought the help of some workers trimming the olive trees, who pointed down the hill; we eventually found our way back to the Quinta, hot and tired. We’d walked six miles in three frustrating, zig-zagging hours. But the views were fantastic. As was the port. I have no doubt these terraced vineyards must be spectacular when covered in green. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c3bff73c3.jpg Views from vineyard walk https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61a22e5437.jpg Vineyard walk https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e84cc50fda.jpg Views from vineyard walk https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e7cf13401.jpg Views from vineyard walk https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...667b4a7a73.jpg Views from vineyard walk https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01f165581a.jpg Quinta as seen from across the river https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec2c7e4be4.jpg Views from vineyard walk https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f7882b3369.jpg Views from vineyard walk https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d143aeb293.jpg Views from vineyard walk https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c235d6c5d1.jpg Views of Pinhão and bridge from vineyard walk https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da109da25f.jpg Vineyard walk Then it was back across the bridge and down to the waterfront in search of food (none available at Quinta das Carvalhas unfortunately). Enticed by their lovely riverside location we mistakenly selected Vale do Tabua Wine & Tapas for lunch. I had a long conversation with the proprietor about their wines and selected a bottle. Not much on the limited menu appealed, so we asked how big the pizzas were, planning to share, and were told they were individual sized. So we ordered two. Turns out they were more than sufficient to share, but truly awful. Good wine, bad food (and to add insult to injury, we were overcharged for two already expensive pizzas – €45). The experience left a bad taste, and I’m not just talking about the food. Bill retreated to the hotel, but I decided to wander a bit. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...105e13c1ca.jpg Pinhão https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89758528d8.jpg Pinhão https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a020b4781f.jpg Pinhão We had a repeat dinner at Veladouro that night. We’d booked, but the place was empty. Being told to book, be it for meals, tastings, tours or walks, had become a recurring theme in Pinhão, but had not seemed necessary. I asked our waiter if it was due to the cruise boat passengers. He said they don’t come ashore to eat, they dine on their boats. He said they see 6-7 large cruise boats a day, but no customers from the boats. Huh. Unfortunately, they still had no tuna and no tenderloin, dashing Bill’s hopes. I guess you just never know what might be on the menu when you arrive. So, we shared an encore Caprese salad and drunken cake – this time served with strawberry ice cream, and of course more wine and water (€25.50). Still good. We then walked along the deserted waterfront back to our hotel, passing a well-lit cruise boat filled with older folks seated at dining tables. Again wondering if this was our future. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3dc3d7a097.jpg Pinhão https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78b06deab0.jpg Pinhão https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...522b726be0.jpg Pinhão To be continued... |
Wow, you really gained some elevation on that walk … my DH would have filed for divorce by then, lol.
|
Enjoying your report and photos. We visited Lisbon and Sintra in 2018 and I would love to return to Portugal, especially after reading your report and Progol's report. So were you on the wrong trail when you were in the vineyard? The scenery is lovely but I am sure it was frustrating to miss your tasting. Pinhao and Porto look very, very interesting.
|
So were you on the wrong trail when you were in the vineyard?
We think we got off the trail at some point, then found it again, but we're not really sure. |
The land of black capes
We hung around the hotel until 11 am, having purchased train tickets from Pinhão to Porto (Interregional) and tickets and seat reservations from Porto to Coimbra (Intercidades) online weeks in advance (€19.90 each for both segments). Upon learning that we were traveling by train at check-out, the guy in reception led us back through that labyrinth of a hotel to a side door, which led up to the train station. Ah-ha! Wish we’d known about that upon arrival. In keeping with our Portuguese train experience thus far, our train to Porto Campanha was 16 minutes late, eating into our eight minute connection time. We spoke to the conductor; he told us to wait, not to worry just yet. Quite a few people and groups were leaving Pinhão; more people than we’d seen since we arrived here; many got off in Régua, which struck both of us as much bigger than its population of 17,131. Once again we were struck with how developed Portugal seems. Perhaps because so many cities go upwards due to the hilly topography? Buildings were perched high up on the hillsides seemingly everywhere at this end of the Douro. I can’t even imagine the construction challenges. Our surroundings felt much greener than they had just a few days ago. The vineyards near Régua looked to be in full leaf. Spring was working its way north. We passed groves of Arum lilies, orange and olive trees; oranges lining the ground beneath the trees. No announcements had been made on any of our train journeys so far, and there were no monitors to advise what stop was coming up. The CP app didn’t even list stops, so it was a bit confusing, and we had to pay close attention so as to not miss our stop. Our train driver drove like a bat out of hell and we arrived at Porto Campanha only six minutes late. Our connecting train was still there, and directly across the platform making for an easy transition. This was a much nicer train than the rather rustic ones we’d been on thus far; the ride interesting. As we passed through what I think were the suburbs of Porto, we went directly through a neighborhood with houses very close to the train tracks on both sides, and through what appeared to be a massive rail construction project. It reminded me of the time we landed in Hong Kong Kai Tak airport eons ago, the surrounding buildings freakishly close. https://edition.cnn.com/travel/artic...html?gallery=0 We arrived in Coimbra, aka the Oxford or Cambridge of Portugal, once again surprised at its size. It wasn’t clear where to catch our train from Coimbra B to Coimbra Centro; fortunately a passersby saw our confusion and helped. Gotta love the Portuguese. We then tried to follow our GPS to our apartment, soon encountering a large police and fire department presence blocking the road we needed. It wasn’t clear if there was a problem or if this was a drill. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2155711513.jpg They were turning back pedestrians; we were unsure of what to do. It was very confusing; there was also a lot of construction – (construction in Portugal had begun to feel like summer road work in Colorado, perpetual and never-ending). Bill left me with the luggage and tried to find another way to the apartment, eventually finding an alternate route. Once at the apartment we were confronted with 65 steps up to our fourth four unit. When booking, I’d asked the owner which unit was the quietest, and had booked accordingly. I knew there would be stairs, as the apartment was in the historic center, but I had underestimated how many, how narrow and how steep. Getting up there with our luggage was an ordeal; Bill may never forgive me. Although we were on the fourth floor, there was a construction crew right outside and level to the window; so close that we could almost reach out the window and touch them. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0de3fd3bff.jpg Concerned about noise, I called the owner to get the scoop on the construction. He came right over and said they were building a new light rail and would knock off about 5 or 6 pm. So we shuttered the window and hoped for the best. He (Bruno) was also unaware of the police and fire department activity just two blocks over. But he did tell us that Portugal had “good food, good wine, good beaches…but no money”. We were discouraged and tired, but decided to give it a night and see how it went (it went fine, the construction was a non-issue, the apartment was spacious and quiet and we got our exercise going up and down those damn steps – Sophia Residences, attic unit, €200 for three nights). We headed out to explore; first popping into a grocery store; the strong smell of Bacalhau - dried salted cod – nearly bowling us over. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60ba156e3e.jpg I then googled “pizza near me”, and we followed my GPS to Il Tartufo for sustenance. Great place this. Our Italian waiter was hilarious, the pizza and wine lovely (€35). We’d consistently been overwhelmed with the wine options, so we had settled into a routine of ordering the house wine everywhere we dined; and we’d not been disappointed. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a146b8ad48.jpg Il Tartufo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f971fe442.jpg Il Tartufo https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c09edb310.jpg Il Tartufo Afterwards we wandered the streets and stumbled upon a shop that sold nothing but canned sardines. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4fe7b0f5fe.jpg Sardines anyone? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68af72fd8e.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a23c164e0.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7df0cd2ea5.jpg We then sought out gelato, watched a group of college kids do who-knows-what, and eventually found our way back to the apartment. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...745107cae2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efcafccde4.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8dc8df2c9a.jpg To be continued... |
I'm loving your tasty trip report, Melnq8; not your usual fare, I think. Eagerly awaiting more...
|
Old books, cats and Fado
Sure enough, the noise outside our window fired up at 8 am. We’d had a pretty quiet night, once the traffic died down. We were definitely in the thick of things here in Coimbra. Bill was happy with apartment coffee, but I went out looking for a nice latte, down those 65 steps, finding one across the street (€1.20) sipped while people watching and looking at the Portuguese news coverage of the war in Ukraine, which we’d managed to avoid for the past 10 days. Then I popped into a bakery and picked up a pastel da nata for Bill and a mystery pastry for me – something in filo – I’d seen these in every bakery window we’d passed in Coimbra thus far. Then it was back up those 65 steps. At first bite I thought my pastry was apricot due to the color, but no, it was egg! Seems the egg hater had bought herself a Pastel de Tentúgal which I’ve since learned is regarded as one of the seven iconic dishes of Portuguese cuisine. I wasn’t doing so well with the Portuguese pastries. Even egg eater Bill didn’t care for it. Our day started with a wander through Mercado Municipal. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a1e7906ce.jpg Mercado Municipal https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bea248a06b.jpg Mercado Municipal https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ea0a9a475.jpg Mercado Municipal Then we walked up to the University, taking in a bit of street art and views of the city along the way. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9d7ae4d845.jpg Street art https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac5d1204d8.jpg City views https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b7fdfdeab.jpg City views Like much of Portugal, Coimbra is full of hills, but I’d read that it’s less taxing on the legs to walk along the 16th century São Sebastião aqueduct instead of via the staircase on Rua Oliveire Matos. We didn’t see the aqueduct, but the hills didn’t seem bad, so we have no idea which route we took. We did pass the elevator en route, although we never saw the funicular I’d read about. Regardless, we found the University, and bought tickets at the ticket office for the Baroque Library, St Michael’s Chapel, the Royal Palace and the Chemistry Lab (€12.50 each). We later discovered that many visitors had walked right past the ticket office and had to backtrack to purchase tickets. Our entry into the Biblioteca Joanina Baroque Library (the oldest library in Portugal) was timed, with entry 15 minutes after we arrived, and limited to a 15 minute visit. We were ushered along by an employee who made sure we didn’t overstay our welcome. Afterwards we explored the chapel and palace at our leisure, and then sought out the chemistry lab. I rather enjoyed the ceilings in the chapel. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1c462534b.jpg Coimbra University https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e13d1c9dd4.jpg Coimbra University https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b09dfab300.jpg Chapel https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a440ef816b.jpg Chapel ceiling https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b627b34080.jpg More tile https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aea71c33d4.jpg Chapel ceiling https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fc60dfb2f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c50608fc3.jpg Chapel ceiling After getting our fill of the University, and getting turned around more than once, I googled ‘Indian food near me’ and we followed my GPS down several steep winding streets to Gul and Guls near the river. Here we both partook of their set lunch, a thali which consisted of a choice of curry, rice, salad and roti, plus wine and coffee. Our waitress asked if we wanted a small or big wine, and advised the price was the same, so it was a no brainer. She then brought out an entire bottle! The food was pretty good and at €12.30 total, inclusive of coffee and wine…a hell of a bargain. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...084948a633.jpg After lunch, we worked our way back up and then down a labyrinth of very steep hills, wondering how we’d missed them this morning, and sought out the Cat Café, which I’d run across during my research and wanted to check out. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...36564265fb.jpg Coimbra https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45cf78e4c8.jpg Coimbra For €1 or purchase of a coffee, one is granted access to the cat playroom, where we found three resident cats and a fourth up for adoption. All proceeds from the café go towards their care and treatment and towards that of other abandoned cats. We were told that all the cats had food related names; none of which I can remember. One had been rescued after being hit by a car and had a permanent limp. When we asked about him, the employee we spoke with asked if we wanted to adopt him, and explained that people from as far away as Brazil had taken cats home with them. The coffee was very good, the brownie, not-so-much, the entertainment excellent. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ee4fe6785.jpg Cat Cafe https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a774ccd74a.jpg Cat Cafe https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f99480fb76.jpg Cat Cafe We were finding Coimbra to be a city of narrow winding alleyways, and a fair amount of grit (the gloom didn't help). https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...292f66d307.jpg Coimbra https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9080a4bbc9.jpg Coimbra That evening we went to Café Santa Cruz, where for the price of a drink or snack, one can enjoy their free Fado performances at 6 and 10 pm daily. Thoroughly enjoyable. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f59b6163c1.jpg Fado, Café Santa Cruz https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de5964c9a5.jpg Café Santa Cruz After the Fado performance, we walked down to the Mercado, as Bill was craving some sushi. We were surprised to find it closed. A passerby asked us what type of food we were looking for and laughed when we said sushi. Evidently, the Mercado is only open for lunch. So, we walked in the rain back to II Tartufo. It was 8 pm on a Friday night, yet Coimbra felt much quieter than the previous night, as if the sidewalks had been rolled up. The restaurant however, was heaving. In an attempt to eat light since it was so late we shared a lovely vegetable pasta and a fabulous Tiramisu (€22.50 with sparkling water and one glass of red). https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c69dfae08d.jpg Tiramisu Then it was back through the quiet streets to our apartment. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00cc82d383.jpg Coimbra after dark https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e6bfb4616.jpg Coimbra after dark To be continued... |
Ooh, those sidewalks glistening in the rain!
|
We stayed in that exact same apartment in Coimbra. Those stairs are no joke!
|
Originally Posted by valgalchi
(Post 17378799)
We stayed in that exact same apartment in Coimbra. Those stairs are no joke!
|
Thanks Melnq8 fo this post.
Lovely pictures as always when you post. You captured the beauty of the places you visited so effectively. Thanks. You really had a nice location in Pinhao. In Coimbra did you go to the Joanina Library at the University Square? ( My tour guide to me you pronounce Coimbra like ( Queem.- Bra !) I beg your pardon if I may post 3 pictures inside the Joanina Library............ because you cannot take pictures inside there, but you really have to see this place Thanks Melnq8...........keep those pictures coming , they are all very lovely. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9258654826.jpg The very beautiful Joanina Library in Coimbra University Square https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...566a65c85c.jpg No picture taking inside https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4789e898ef.jpg Spectacular throughout !! |
In Coimbra did you go to the Joanina Library at the University Square?
Yes, as stated above: Our entry into the Biblioteca Joanina Baroque Library (the oldest library in Portugal) was timed, with entry 15 minutes after we arrived, and limited to a 15 minute visit. We were ushered along by an employee who made sure we didn’t overstay our welcome. |
Who did you book the tour with? Did you book online in advance? Thanks.
|
Originally Posted by Melnq8
(Post 17378872)
In Coimbra did you go to the Joanina Library at the University Square?
Yes, as stated above: Our entry into the Biblioteca Joanina Baroque Library (the oldest library in Portugal) was timed, with entry 15 minutes after we arrived, and limited to a 15 minute visit. We were ushered along by an employee who made sure we didn’t overstay our welcome. Sorry Melnq8, I must have missed that line , too busy looking at all your Coimbra pictures. Waiting for more pictures !! |
Originally Posted by maitaitom
(Post 17378873)
Who did you book the tour with? Did you book online in advance? Thanks.
|
Following along, I love your trip reports! My husband's aunt just spent a little over a month traveling in Portugal and I definitely want to go.
|
"We didn't book, we just turned up and bought a ticket from the ticket office. No lines, no drama."
Thanks. Did you get advance reservations for the Sintra palaces? Your photos are stupendous! |
No, didn't book in Sintra either. We turned up when the gates opened instead. Details on that coming up.
Only things we booked were tapas in the Douro, dinner in Pinhao, and dinner in Evora. None of which were necessary. When planning this trip I kept reading about how it was necessary to book this and that. That wasn't our experience at all. |
Mel, Coimbra media is reporting that someone apparently walked away the Joanina's oldest copy of the 'Lets Go Portugal 1492' guidebook. Couldn't help but notice that the theft coincided with your day of visiting.
Carry on. I am done. the dead combo |
zebec - Ha! That would have been quite a feat.
And thank you flwrhead, Percy and maitaitom (those library photos aren't mine by the way, that's a Percy contribution - photos not allowed). |
Originally Posted by Melnq8
(Post 17378934)
zebec - Ha! That would have been quite a feat.
And thank you flwrhead, Percy and maitaitom (those library photos aren't mine by the way, that's a Percy contribution - photos not allowed). Percy did not take those pictures. But the Library is beautiful.!! :) |
Everything and nothing
Down those 65 steps again and across the street for a nice latte, then into a bakery for some chocolate croissants, which were unusual and doughy, but good (€3.50). Then back up those 65 steps to eat and collect Bill. Coimbra had grown on us. The black caped students, the narrow winding alleyways, the near vertical hills, the tiles, the street art, even the grit. In an attempt to find the aqueduct and the stairs we’d heard so much about we set out to explore. Our meander took us through a neighborhood of interesting street art and then alongside the river, where we encountered some sort of race; cops were out in force, streets had been blocked off and traffic diverted, necessitating us to turn back and find another route. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c54443e418.jpg Wandering https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3222c84a37.jpg Wandering https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0f4b4ec0b.jpg Wandering https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fbd195c6d.jpg Wandering https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f1bf9af5c.jpg Street art https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1f30bf02e.jpg Street art We got sidetracked by Parque Verde on the banks of the River Mondego. High walls blocked off much of the park due to some sort of construction, but we followed some of the runners into the park and stumbled across this huge green bear, and a group of students who asked us to take their photo in front of it. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb63298a3f.jpg Approach to Parque Verde https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4eac148530.jpg Parque Verde We backtracked and popped into the tourist office to enquire about those stairs we kept hearing about and then climbed up the same steep narrow streets from yesterday. We finally found them – Escadas Monumentais, a staircase with 125 steps that connect Praca D. Dinis to the University. We’d also found the aqueduct. There were a few tour groups up here and try as we might, we couldn’t understand the significance of the stairs. I’ve since scoured the internet and found this: These stairs are part of an urban intervention carried out during the Estado Novo period. This intervention covered a vast area known as the "Alta Universitária" (University's Uptown). Construction begain in 1942 and was completed 27 years later. It led to the demolition of a large part of the residential and commercial area that previously existed here, as well as the last arch of the aqueduct, for the construction of the new buildings of the faculties of mathematics, letters, medicine, physics, chemistry, the general library and archives of the university. The demolition of the Uptown was so vast, that from all the historical buildings that previously were found here, only part of the Aqueduct, and the 16th century college Colégio de São Jerónimo, survived. In the place where the Monumental Stairs were built, there was, until the intervention, a smaller staircase surrounded by trees, known as "Escadas do Liceu". The Monumental Stairs, like almost all buildings surrounding you, are characterized by the grand and austere style of the architecture of "Estado Novo". They were one of the stages in 1969 for large student protests against the repression and police brutality exercised by the dictatorship of the Estado Novo. Well okay then. We continued our wander, passing a long queue in front of a shop that specializes in academic attire – a sale perhaps? www.atoga.pt https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8290531f9e.jpg Sale? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9739b0b94b.jpg Sale? We eventually found ourselves at the Mercado again – open this time. We perused our lunch options, Bill finding his sushi, but having trouble explaining what he wanted. My alarm bells went off when I noticed the cashier ringing up 24 orders. We got it sorted, and he enjoyed it so much that he went back for seconds, €6.50 each. I settled on a doughy calzone (€8.50) – all washed down with a lovely pitcher of red berry sangria (€14). https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8293944544.jpg Mercado Municipal https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40b9932e70.jpg Mercado Municipal https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f1a20b4978.jpg Mercado Municipal https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c906ee6617.jpg Mercado Municipal...Round 2 Then it was back out to explore, heading up the leafy Avenida Sa Da Bandeira where we ran across a spirited religious gathering. Bill’s first thought was that it was a demonstration of some kind based on the police presence, but this was not the first, or last time we’d see such a presence at a seemingly innocuous gathering. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...313e48b64a.jpg Avenida Sa Da Bandeira https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...046c257be7.jpg Avenida Sa Da Bandeira We continued our wander, eventually ending up at Praça da República, then walked through Parque de Santa Cruz, encountering more stairs, another square and a cat colony. The rain was gone now and it was quite warm. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41d52be67f.jpg Parque de Santa Cruz https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b65d9c4716.jpg Parque de Santa Cruz https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53d69cd999.jpg Cat colony Hot and thirsty, we returned to the Mercado for more sangria, where we shut the place down (3 pm). We then went in search of the bus station, wanting to know where it was for tomorrow’s departure. It felt like we walked forever, but we finally found it. Then it was back up those 65 steps to collect our dirty clothes, then back down and to a laundromat to wash and dry, then a student street performance, and one last Indian meal at Gul and Guls, empty at 8 pm, wondering how they stayed in business (€23.50). We were amused by the long line of DoorDash and UberEats drivers parked next door at Burger King, all glued to their phones, presumably waiting for orders to come in. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14620c1814.jpg Student street performance It’d been a day of everything and nothing. We’d logged many miles and had consumed many calories. We felt we’d gotten a pretty good taste of Coimbra. To be continued... |
A hell of a bridge
We were up and out the door by 7 am - trying - but spectacularly failing - to be quiet as we hefted our luggage down those 65 steps. We then rumbled over the cobblestones – making yet more noise on this sleepy Sunday morning - towards the bus station, having allowed plenty of time as it was some distance away. We arrived before the gates to the bus station were open, so we looked for coffee – but found no cafes in the vicinity – not that it mattered as they’d have been closed anyway. We spotted a McDonalds down the block so headed there - it too was closed, due to open at 8 am. So we sat at one of their picnic tables and waited. My latte, once acquired from the separate kiosk inside the restaurant, was very good (and cheap!). Bill returned to the restaurant to get a sandwich – which took forever – meanwhile I sat outside, entertained by a table of young people who appeared to have been out all night, and were engaged in a very animated conversation. I have no idea what they were saying, but given the intense arguing, and being an American, I couldn’t help but think it was political. We’d purchased our Rede Expressos bus tickets and booked our seats online before leaving the US (€19). Getting on the bus was a bit chaotic, passengers were being directed to both sides to load their luggage, creating a lot of crisscrossing human traffic. The ride however, was enjoyable and quite peaceful, despite a kid in the back trying to cough up a lung, making us worry about COVID. The seats were comfortable, and for the first time since we’d arrived in Portugal, we got a good look at the green rolling hills of the countryside. This is what I’d expected the Douro to look like. We passed several large petrol station/truck stops, me surprised at how busy they were. The wind howled and storm clouds moved in, tossing the bus around a bit, but that endless green…fabulous. En route we passed the exits for the Conimbriga Roman ruins (which I’d just heard about the day before) and for Tomar. After a short stop in Fatima, the bus continued on to Lisboa Sete Rios, the entire journey taking about 2.5 hours. Lisboa Sete Rios felt huge and was a sea of humanity, giving us a glimpse of what was to come in the next week, the big smoke of Lisbon. With time to kill before our next bus, we left the chaotic station and walked to a nearby outdoor waiting area with a kiosk selling coffee and snacks. We cooled our heels over a coffee, and then returned to the station and boarded the 12 pm bus to Evora, this bus much busier than the first. Soon we were crossing the Ponte Vasco da Gama Bridge which spans the Tagus River and at 17 kilometers, is the second longest bridge in Europe. It was something else. Wow. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ce6426be8.jpg Ponte Vasco da Gama Bridge https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a878988ea9.jpg Ponte Vasco da Gama Bridge We were now surrounded by flat countryside, driving through a swarm of bugs that sounded like rain hitting the windshield. We began to see huge nests on top of the power lines and their long-legged inhabitants – storks – the first time either of us had seen one in the flesh. The landscape eventually became dry and much less green, abundant telephone SOS boxes lined the highway. Then trees we’d never seen before began to appear – cork? Then vineyards, these in full leaf, unlike the barren vines we’d seen in the Douro. We were now in an agricultural belt, complete with livestock. We passed an exit towards Spain, which threw me a bit; a few years ago I’d tried to plan a three person, three itinerary trip to Spain and Portugal, but had given up in vain, as the logistics had given me a serious head cramp. It seems I should be been looking into bus routes. We eventually pulled into Evora where we began the usual faffing about, trying to find our way to our hotel, my phone GPS not cooperating…again. Fortunately, Bill has a good memory, and had looked at a map that morning. We rolled our luggage to our hotel just inside the city’s walls; only a 20 minute walk, but a pain to reach thanks to cobblestones and a busy roundabout. It was a lot warmer here in the north; we were hot, annoyed and tired by the time we reached our hotel. I’d booked a superior double room at the Hotel Moov, chosen for its proximity to the bus station, its lenient cancellation policy (free cancel until 4 pm day of arrival) and its good reviews (€254 for three nights with breakfast). After getting settled we went out looking for food; town quite busy on this pretty Sunday. We first checked with EvoraTaste, a restaurant on my must try list, but alas their kitchen had already closed. We next tried a café across from the church, where we were glanced at, but completely ignored by several wait staff. We finally bailed and walked to the Mercado, finding everything closed but the cheese shop. We then stopped at two other cafes, but it was almost 3 pm, and they had stopped serving food. It seems we’d run into the witching hour, a common occurrence for us in Switzerland; and evidently a thing in Evora as well. I finally asked a waiter if anyplace in town was still serving food, and he pointed us in the direction of 100 Montaditos, which as it turned out, was a pub-like fast food place, which offered a huge variety of inexpensive small plates. Not only were they open and serving food (until 4 pm), but they were helpful and friendly. So we had snacks (€9.50) and sangria and watched a table of kids – one who looked no older than 14 - get sloshed while watching soccer on the big screen. Later that evening we returned to Evora Taste, which we’d booked via The Fork on my phone. We were surprised to find the restaurant completely deserted given how busy it had been this afternoon; I got a kick out of this wall hanging which so aptly depicts our time in Portugal. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8b03a2607a.jpg EvoraTaste I went for the fried cheese with homemade jam and fried green beans; Bill tried - and thoroughly enjoyed - the porco preto - black pork burger with bacon, fried egg and fries (good food, good value, friendly service – €27.65 with two glasses of wine and sparkling water). And what pray tell is black pork? Evidently, black pork comes from native Iberian pigs that thrive in the Alentejo countryside, where they feed on acorns from cork and holm trees. The name comes from the grey to black hue of the pig’s skin. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...69b91f1de2.jpg Fried cheese with homemade jam https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...297fb63eec.jpg Fried green beans https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fff456694.jpg Porco Preto - black pork burger with bacon, fried egg and fries Then we waddled back to the hotel to digest. To be continued... |
Sooner you than me with all those stairs! I used the elevator the last time I was in Coimbra. BTW, that looks like sashimi. not sushi.
|
Originally Posted by thursdaysd
(Post 17379003)
Sooner you than me with all those stairs! I used the elevator the last time I was in Coimbra. BTW, that looks like sashimi. not sushi.
And one would need to have an elevator to use it:) |
|
I am just loving following you around. Hope I haven't kicked your heels yet. !
Love all your pictures. You certainly were not starving, seeing those food pictures.' The Porco Preto looks delicious, maybe a little hard on the arteries. |
Getting lost – but not lost - along the Douro . . . a GPS that has decided it needs its own holiday . . . absolutely everything is up or down . . .very friendly and helpful locals . . . yeah, it sounds like Portugal.
Great report Melnq8. |
I enjoyed your description of your bus ride and the scenery along the way. Love the food photos! Fried cheese with jam and fried green beans sound and look delicious! When we were in Portugal, we only visited Lisbon and Sintra, and I don't remember seeing fried green beans on the menu.
|
thursdaysd - I thought you were referring to an elevator in the apartment.
Yes, we saw the elevator near the Mercado and asked the guy operating it about tickets, but he told us he couldn't sell us one and it wasn't clear where to get one so we hoofed it instead. I didn't find the hills near the University all that bad, but the one that led us down to the river and back up was a doozy. Thank you Percy, Ian and Karen! About that food - most petiscos we found on menus were fried - I'm not big on fried, but had to give some a go. The green beans were okay, but not something I'd want on a regular basis. And yeah, we definitely didn't go hungry! |
Fried green beans ("Peixinhos da Horta") are one of the most popular and typical dishes in Portugal, from North to South. They are usually a main dish, eated with tomato rice. The name means "fish from the backyard". They are made the same way as fish is made (fried in tempura), and it was a cleaver way of making of that you were eating protein, when one has no money for meat, fish, eggs, etc. The Japanese were so found about this dish, when the portuguese arrived there in the 16th century, that they made it, and still make, with many other vegetables and other things.
https://guide.michelin.com/hk/en/art...res/tempura_en Melqn, concerning the storks, well, they are a sign for babies, in portuguese culture, they bring babies. I know you got tested for Covid, but others tests exist... (and don't argue, because you were in Portugal, country of many miracles.). Just saying... |
Helena - interesting about the green beans. Storks bring babies in American culture too. Not to me, thankfully:)
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:34 PM. |