Chicken hearts, oh yeah, and we'd get my husband to join in. When we go to the Brazilian Grill in Hyannis, he waits for those skewers of chicken hearts.

Meanwhile, what was the issue with the cans of foie gras arriving in Boston? I always am wondering about it, and I think they keep changing the regulations.

Good question, Nikki. Abby could you and/or Cigalechanta relate what happened when you landed at Logan? A few years back I had some American friends who made a trip to England and France in late fall or winter and when they landed at JFK, their foie-gras was confiscated!

BC

Love your report!

Ok to answer the all important question about the cans of foie gras. By the time we were flying home Mimi was in excruciating pain(though she soldiered on through all the duty free shops in CDG). A request was made of the flight attendants to get her a wheelchair in Logan and that was arranged. She was met at the gangway by a very nice gentleman with a wheelchair. Since I was a couple of rows behind them I didn't catch up until they had gotten to the passport control hall where they were frantically waving me forward. It seems that everyone with the afflicted person gets to go through the flight crew and diplomats line. Cool except that the very nice gentleman (VNG) warned us that one of the passport control guys wasn't very nice. D went first where the guy quizzed him about the alcohol he brought back but D passed without any notations on his customs card. I was next up and by virtue of the tin of foie gras ended up with a big red A (agriculture) on my card. Miki did as well. The VNG said no biggie you just have to have your bags xrayed. XRAYS!!!! I had visions of the contents of my bag being strewn across the customs tables as they confiscate all my seeds and unmentionables. Well, all that panic was for nothing. Yes they did xray our bags- all including carryons. But frankly I don't think anyone even looked at it while it went through. So that is what declaring the foie gras will get you. It is sitting save and secure in my kitchen.

OK, good, that is what has happened to me in the past. The x-ray line goes quickly. As long as you can still get in your foie gras legally, I'll be happy to go through that line.

Abby, thank you for that info. If any one party of travelers deserved to run into a VNG, it was surely our Fodorite Musketeers (sans muskets, but with others).

In early '04 I made a trip to the UK. On the flight back, a young couple had packed a little meal for their toddler son and the tot neglected to eat the apple. At Customs upon re-entry into the USA, you would have thought that apple was a thermonuclear device for all the time, attention, and effort spent on whether or not it/"the offenders" should be permitted into the US. **Sigh!** Our tax dollars "at work", I guess!

BC

I didn't know there was ever an issue with foie gras. I brought some home last time an never mentioned it to anyone and there were no problems. Ahhh, ignorance is bliss!

I can sort of understand the fuss at international airports especially when you read about native species being over run but imports. What I don't understand is the fuss that is made at the border crossing on the highway from VT to Canada. Don't you think the insects could cross the border by themselves?

I have not read Markets of Paris, but will grab a copy this week. Thanks for the recommendation. And I will definitely watch for your recipe.

I have never posted a trip report, AGM...lots of trepidation about it after reading the wonderful, colorful, informative, and humorous reports here. But maybe I'll give it a go. In September, I am taking my middle daughter (24 year-old) who adores cooking; hoping to do a one-day cooking class, among other things. So I just might have something noteworthy to report.

To the three Musketeers:

I am so enjoying your detailed reports. They will help me get through until Sept. when we will return to Paris.

AGM, Wow. Now I'm even more impressed. You learned from Madeleine Kaman!! How exciting. No wonder Tomas looks so happy.

Glad you enjoyed Itineraires. It's such a fun place and the food really deserves all the hype it's getting IMO. Pretty unpretentious for all that attention too.

It was delightful meeting you at the GTG, and delightful to read your trip report.

I will just echo Julie.. WOW ... this is just amazing.. I have saved all three reports and will read them again and again I am sure.
I need time to absorb all the sights and smells ... yes, I can close my eyes and smell that dinner cooking...
this has been such a Treat .. thank you for posting .. all three of you ((L))

paris1953 - Trip reports are what hold us until the next date we travel. Please do a trip report because you never know what little snippet of information you put into it might help someone else. I am sure we will be hearing more from you prior to your Sept trip. And see if you will be there at the same time as TPAYT because meeting other Fodorites is the best!

TPAYT I envy you looking forward to your trip!

Julie, Madeleine was a great teacher who taught more then just techniques. She taught how to intensify flavors. Unfortunately she suffered from 'Julia Child' envy.

Since this trip was initiated by Fodorites it was very appropriate we had not one but two GTGs. The first came about because JulieVikmanis was leaving Paris on the day that others could make it. So we had a GTG at the bar at the Lutecia on Monday evening. There were eight of us-JulieVikmanis, her husband Val, Grandot, her husband Seymour and granddaughter, Alexandra, and the gang from MA. The bar at the Lutecia was a great place for a GTG. One of the hard parts about finding a place for a GTG is that the best places allow for the participant to mix and mingle. The Lutecia was large enough for our group, they were accommodating about getting us extra chairs, if only they had come back to see if we wanted more drinks. Ah, well you can’t have everything. We talked about restaurants, hotels, markets and museums. I came away happy that we made reservations for dinner at Itinéraires since it got raves from JulieVikmanis who is a great source for restaurant suggestions.

The second GTG was at the Bouillon Racine which is a beautiful place. I felt that we were really in their way standing the near the bar the way we were. In addition to the gang from MA and Grandot and her family, we met Traviata and her husband, Ed and Stormbird (from down under) and her son. We were surprised to find another connection with Traviata which is that she and her husband spend time every summer on Cape Cod. Sometime this summer there will be a reprise of the Paris GTG on Cape Cod- let me know if you want to attend! I was also impressed that Stormbird’s son had traveled by himself until he ran out of money. Then found a job in the UK and was working at a pub. I wish I had been so brave at that age.

Shopping-
We went to our usual haunts and bought our usual supplies: Maille, Maison de Miel, BHV, G Detou. In addition Mimi introduced Tomas to Ryst Dupeyron (Metro – rue du Bac) where he tasted Armagnac to his heart’s content. He bought three 50 cl bottles-1952, 1972, and 1982 (which he always looks for since it is the year we got married) as well as a bottle of crème de mure d’armagnac. Mimi was also in heaven left with a stash as well.

The other new place we went was to Jacque Genin’s new establishment. Tomas and I are addicted to his mango caramels which we discovered on our bedside table the first time we stayed at the Relais St Germain under the management of the Camdebordes. Twice we have bought kilos of the caramels directly from Monsieur Genin, once we actually ended up in his kitchen with his daughter translating for us. This year Jacque Genin open a chocolate and pastry shop at 133 Rue de Turenne (Metro: Files Calvaire) so we went there to get out fix. The unfortunate thing is that the just sell the caramels in sachets of 13 for 17€. I bought three and split one with gomiki. We need to go back for more already!!

Waaaaa! Of COURSE I want to attend! (I'm going "waaa" because I might not get to, though.)

BC

And we want you to attend!!

Okay, I think I've now read all the 3 Mouseketeers Storm Paris reports--all wonderful! What a sweet trip this was; how nice to share it with good friends.

My May dance card (resto list) is full already, but maybe, just possibly I can squeeze/stuff in lunch at Itineraires. After reading your lovely report I'd like to give it a try.

Thanks, AGM, for closing the loop. I really enjoyed this.

Hey bookie, we can work that out...:)

Nice job Abby. I am linking all our reports:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...o-to-paris.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...s-in-paris.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/fodo...et-fashion.cfm

We need to start working on the next one :D

Get-together on the Cape? Yes please.

Your name was on my list. Are you on the Cape for most of the summer?

There and back again. We may go away for a week or two in July. The rest of the time it's back and forth, depending on schedules.

Well, we will see what we can arrange with everyone's schedules. Two crucial points to work around when Traviata is on the Cape and I am going to London for work the last week in July. So somehow around those we will manage.

Hi Abby,

We will try to work around whatever date you all choose...for us, the best time would be the last week of June, starting from June 22, which is when we arrive. After that, though we are there for two more weeks, all the family comes and it gets harder.

Traviata, would the last weekend (June 27 or 28th) work for you?

How about anyone else?

Mimi, we will get you and Pastis to the Cape, don't worry.

Bookmarking to read through when I have more time. Thanks so much for all the detail.

Hi Abby,

Yes, last week would work, (Saturday, the 27th better than Sunday the 28th), during the week okay too, however we'd like to stay as far away from the 4th weekend as possible... I'm sure you know what traffic is like then...looking forward to a GTG already!

Traviata, that sounds good to me. I will check around and let you know the details.

Thanks, Julia1. It is hard to know how much detail to put in.

June 28 works for me, but not June 27.

Abby and Nikki...we just found out Saturday, 27th works for us, but not Sunday, 28th...now comes the hard part...trying to find a date that works for everyone!

AGM-
i love your trip report!

i have itineraires, l'ami jean, and petit pontoise on my list for this summer.

i also loved your market descriptions.

i do have a question...
how do you know which markets are open on which days? is there a website that lists their days/hours/ locations?
we won't be in Paris on a sunday, and it seems there are a lot of great markets on sundays!

Hi, dina4 I have two sources for market information- a website http://www.v1.paris.fr/EN/Living/markets/markets.ASP and a book Markets of Paris by Dixon and Ruthanne Long. Let us know what you find.

Nikki, Traviata I guess June 27th wins out by virtue of distance traveled.

Thank you SO much!! that is EXACTLY what i've been looking for!!

I'll be thinking of you as I play in my band concert.

Nikki, we will be thinking of you as well. The good news is that there are other opportunities for you to join us for a GTG on the Cape. Let's make it happen. BTW what instrument do you play?

Flute and piccolo.

Yes, I've been thinking about hosting a get-together for some time.

AGM --
this is really weird.. today at work i clicked on that great market link, saw all the great markets listed, bookmarked it, and now at home i can't get the link to work at all?!?

bookmarking...this is great. ty.

abby, the link works for me.

Here's another link I found


http://www.jeanne-feldman.com/articles/look_markets.htm