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-   -   Hunting the light on the Hurtigruten (long!) (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/hunting-the-light-on-the-hurtigruten-long-879708/)

humptynumpty Mar 1st, 2011 12:12 AM

The absence of Pollyanna is much appreciated.

Quite frankly I stop reading after 7 wonderfuls in the first paragraph of a Venice trip report. There are very few occasions or locations when the superlative "astounding" could be used. St Marks Square or Toarmina are not those contexts.

A winter sunrise in the Artic circle is one of those occasions and the aurora is definitely. So pleased you experienced it.

I agree, trips so far north are not like two weeks on a beach in the Caribbean. It can be demanding.

We spent time sitting in the reception of our hotel in Tromso just watching travellers come and go. There were independent travellers returning from Svalbard, who looked like something out of National Geographic. Looked they they had faced death and returned.

I also agree about the age suitability.

We took our then 3 year old for 3 days to Tromso with a flight in and out of that city. It worked really well with 3 organised excursions. I am well aware that children actually do live in Norway but I agree it isn't a suitable destination for a great deal of independent travel with children and without a degree of local knowledge. Hiring a car and road tripping could be a bad idea.

I think you probably feel as we did. The Caribbean/Italy are simple experiences. Northern Norway is a "lifetime" experience which everyone should try to complete at least once.

Great and honest trip report.

Thank you.

cambe Mar 1st, 2011 03:41 AM

Thank you for a wonderful trip report looking at your lovely photographs brings back so many memories particularly the wonderful sunrise and sunsets, they were almost as good as the Aurora.

I feel guilty as I think I recommended that you do the dog sledging in Kirkenes rather than Tromso - sorry you didn't enjoy it, the one I went on in Tromso was brilliant. You didn't even get to see Tromso!

I didn't like Bodo but looking at your photographs I missed the church which looks lovely.

If you were doing the trip again with your husband would you do the full trip or get off in Kirkenes?



I think I will have to look at prices for the Hurtigruten again for 2012.

Maudie Mar 1st, 2011 04:02 AM

hetismij, we survived to tell the tale so we just put it down as one of "those" travel experiences. But it can certainly ruin a holiday!

It was a very expensive trip and a long way to travel from Perth, Western Australia so we won't be doing it again. But the good memories out weigh the bad, sailing into Troll Fjord at midnight and being able to take photo's without using the flash, feeling like we could almost reach out and touch the sides, lots of positives.

Mind you we were sick to death of fish and the smell of fish from the restaurant by the time we arrived back!!

We did enjoy Bergen, especially the prawn sandwiches at the market. We had one full day before and 2 days after the journey. We did the Norway in a Nutshell day trip, Bergen to Bergen and thoroughly enjoyed it. It was a different experience.

I would do the entire again (as long as I didn't get sick), lots of different things to see and sailing back into Bergen on a beautiful sunny day was a highlight.

TDudette Mar 1st, 2011 03:58 PM

Loved the photo of the red building (lighthouse?)-not finished looking at the photos yet. Very nice shots!

Bette Mar 2nd, 2011 08:25 AM

Thanks for the great trip report. Norway is on our "visit soon" short list and we are interested in the Hurtigruten cruises. One question for you, I am allergic to shellfish and usually stay away from the entire fish category. What did they have to offer on the buffets as an alternative, if any? Thanks for your help.

hetismij Mar 2nd, 2011 09:18 AM

If you are allergic to something, or just don't plain like it tell them in advance and the chef will make something else for you.
I don't eat shellfish either, no allergy, just don't like them. The buffets are quite fish based but there is always meat available too. Likewise with the sit down dinners - once there was a mussel as part of a dish - I gave mine to my Dutch neighbour, and once there were shrimps for a starter. I just skipped the starter.
But better still is to make clear when you book so they cater for you from the get go. The Dutch woman who joined in Kirkenes is a vegetarian, and though she will (reluctantly) eat fish most days she was served delicious vegetarian meals.

For others concerned about this - the menu is put up on a notice board outside the dining room in the morning, before breakfast. If there is something on it you don't like then let the restaurant manager know and they will try and come up with an alternative for you, though it is not always possible.

irishface Mar 2nd, 2011 05:11 PM

I enjoyed your pictures and your report. However, I must admit that I was shivering as I read. I'm ready for spring here in New england. thanks!

Bette Mar 3rd, 2011 08:42 AM

Thanks for the info!

Sissie Mar 4th, 2011 01:21 AM

An entrancing report..and the photos even more so! Thank you.

hetismij Mar 6th, 2011 12:52 PM

I'm glad you all enjoyed it - I hope I have inspired some of you to give the Hurtigruten a try :).

flygirl Mar 6th, 2011 01:32 PM

hetismij - thank you so much for writing this report! I am not sure I'll do the Hurtigruten this summer, but it's definitely an option. Fantastic photos and what a great experience.

seetheworld Jul 24th, 2011 08:54 AM

Your departure, hetismij. reminded me to come and finish reading your trip report. Thank you for sharing...it is such a loss for us that you won't be posting here.

I highly doubt that I ever will take such a trip (I don't have sea legs, lol). I agree about your photos...absolutely fantastic!!

I am so glad you took this trip. ((f))


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