That reminds me - castles ! Castellanese, aren't you planning to visit any of the 3 castles ?

Since I want to visit the Certosa di San Martino, I might as well visit Castel Sant'Elmo. If I have time, I could also visit Castel Nuovo while visiting Royal Naples, but it all depends on how much energy I have at that moment. Any recommendations on which one shouldn't be missed?

We only managed the Castel Nuovo so can't compare.

Castel Nuovo isn't too thrilling, but Castel St. Elmo offers great views of Naples from all sides.

Dang, Waldo, you beat me to the punch.

Castel Sant'Elmo offers great views of Naples from all sides. Oh, wait, you just said that :-)

Seriously, it's on top of the Vomero hills and is probably one of the highest points in Naples. There is a spectacular view of Spaccanapoli, Santa Lucia, the Bay of Naples, and Mt. Vesuvius from CSE. It also doubles as an art museum (I saw an MC Escher exhibit there a couple of years ago). The best part is, because it's a castle with massive walls, it's nice and cool in the heat of summer.

CSE is about a 5-10 minute walk from the last (Vomero?) station on the main funicular. It leaves from a station just up Via Toledo/Via Roma from Piazza Trieste e Trento.

When you get done peoplewatching in the Mickey-D's in Piazza Dante, walk across the piazza to Cafe Mexico, for what IMHO is the best cup of espresso in Naples. While Gambrinus may have the atmosphere, Cafe Mexico has the coffee.

And make sure you get a hot, fresh sfogliatelle from Sfogliatelle Mary in Galleria Umberto. This is non-negotiable and you will be prevented from leaving Naples until you have had at least 3 dozen.

Per person.

Per day.
;-)

Ok, so I've decided to stay a bit longer in Campania and this is what I have:

After a week in Lisbon, I'll take a plane to Rome and then take the train down to Naples and stay 3 nights on Procida, 3 nights on Capri, 3 nights on the Amalfi Coast (where?) and then 5 nights in Naples.

I've decided to stay in Naples at the end of the trip because, afterwards, I'll have to take the train up to Rome and then take the plane to spend one last night in Lisbon in order to leave home the following morning.

I'm not so sure about staying on the Amalfi Coast. I visited Positano as a daytrip from Capri last year and, after a couple of hours in town, my impression was: "Is that it?", so I wonder if I wasn't impressed because I did it as a daytrip or simply because Positano isn't for everybody. I'd also thought of adding an extra night on Capri, instead, and visit Ravello as a daytrip, since I've already been to Positano. This latter option will give me an extra night in Naples and not so much moving around.

My heart is set on sleeping on Procida because I've been reading "Arturo's Island" and, even though I know that books tend to romanticize a place, I'm pretty sure I'll like it.

Any thoughts?

When you go to Castel St. Elmo, be sure to go to the very top, on the roof. It's massive, and it's like a miniature city up there. The last time I was there, I arranged to have my brother in law, Mario, wave a large flag from his balcony, about five miles from St. Elmo. I knew approximately where his house was located, and with the aid of binoculars, I saw him waving the flag. It was quite an experience. St. Elmo IS the highest point in Napoli, and the views from it are magnificent.

Although it doesn't have quite such a 'wow factor', I prefer Amalfi to Positano as it is more of real town. Transport links are easier too. It would be easiest to visit Ravello from Amalfi.

Ok, so I thought there'd be direct flights Lisbon-Naples but there aren't, so I think this is my last itinerary draft:

Rome: 1 night
Procida: 3 nights
Capri: 3 nights
Ravello: 3 nights (daytrip to Positano)
Naples: 5 nights (daytrip to Pompeii)
Lisbon: 5 nights (daytrip to Sintra)

I'm having a bit of a hard time finding inexpensive hotels in Ravello, but I'm still looking.

What are you planning to do on Procida for 3 days ? Will you take day trips to Ischia ? If you want stuff to do & see as opposed to just relaxing, I'd stay in Ischia & day trip to Procida. Or have you been to Ischia before ?

Ditto for Ravello, really. We stayed there 3 or 4 nights & regretted not doing it as a day trip. The only things to see are the 2 famous gardens, it's very quiet at night & we found it a bit cold in June. It's also the worst place to stay on the Amalfi Coast as regards travelling to & from other places,

We stayed at the Hotel Giordano which was quite modestly priced then & was OK; but looking at their prices now it seems more expensive - maybe it's been smartened up. But I'd much rather stay in Amalfi or Positano.

I should say that we are very lazy holidaymakers who don't do a lot, but you sound like you want to be out & about quite a bit.

I haven't been yet, but I'm planning a trip to include Naples and the Amalfi Coast, and from everything I've read I agree with Carolyn that Ravello is not a good base. Great for honeymooners, or the exhausted who want to rest up, but not as a base for visiting the other sights on the coast. My first pick was Amalfi, but since I'll be there in April or May I'm now leaning to Sorrento for better transport options.

Hi C,

>I'm having a bit of a hard time finding inexpensive hotels in Ravello, but I'm still looking.

I suggest staying in Amalfi, Positano or Praiano and making Ravello a daytrip.

((I))

Hi, Castellanese -

As others have noted, there are some good reasons for basing in Amalfi or somewhere else along the coast, rather than Ravello, but there are also some good reasons for staying in Ravello. For one thing, it is gorgeous! In addition to the villas and their spectacular gardens, there are also a few lovely churches. And if you like to walk, there are some beautiful trails, including one to Amalfi that takes about an hour.

I stayed at the reasonably affordable Hotel Parsifal, and absolutely loved it - but it isn't for everyone. I think the reviews on tripadvisor give a good sense of what you can expect.

Hope that helps!

Hi again,

Well, since Procida is certainly tiny, I guess I could keep Ischia as a PLAN B for a daytrip. I decided to stay on Procida rather than Ischia because I want to stay in a non-touristy place for a change and Ischia is way bigger with lots to do. I know that there are people who also travel to Procida, but it will never be as crowded with tourists as Capri or Ischia usually are. Besides, I've really fallen for it because of the novel I'm reading and the pictures I've seen on the Internet.

Caroline, you're totally right about the out and about, so I've decided to go straight to Naples rather than staying in Rome for just one night. As for the other places, I've always appreciate a place better when I spend the night rather than visiting it as a daytrip.

As for Ravello, I guess must think about it since, in your experience, it isn't really a good place to base, although it definitely seems more alluring than Amalfi and Positano.

I've also decided to take a day off Capri since I've already been there and I just want to see "what's new".

So right now I have:

Naples 5 nights (daytrip to Pompeii)
Ravello 3 nights (daytrip to Amalfi/Positano)
Capri 2 nights
Procida 3 nights (daytrip to Ischia Ponte)
Lisbon 6 nights (daytrip to Sintra)

Thanks again for sharing your opinions!

Castellanese, we've stayed a week in Ischia each of the last 2 years (in June) & daytripped to Procida, and Ischia didn't seem any more crowded than Procida to me. Both are lovely, though. Which book is it you are reading ?

If you do take a daytrip to Ischia I'd suggest not just staying in Ischia Ponte but getting the bus round the island. There's a clockwise & anticlockwise service (CD & CS), both terminating in Sant'Angelo which is the most beautiful town. So you could get, say, the CD there, have lunch & a swim, get the CS back and that way see most of the island. But the castle in Ischia Ponte is worth seeing too and takes a couple of hours.

Well, I think that you're totally right, Caroline, so I'm going to stay on Procida for just 2 nights. I figured I'd better leave Ischia for when I have time to visit it at a slow pace. Besides, I'll arrive at Procida probably around noon, so, with 2 nights, I'll have plenty of time to stroll around the island and have some beach time.

Doing hikes wasn't on my plans when visiting the Amalfi Coast, but since my bookguide, DeAgostini, talks highly about them, I think I'd better stay more central (and hopefully less expensive) like in Amalfi. I mean, the least expensive hotel I've found, so far, in Ravello costs 120 Euros for a double room and I shouldn't pay more than 100 Euros (I'm already making an exception in Capri). However, I've found a couple of hotels in Amalfi that go well with my budget.

So, I'll stay 2 nights on Procida (instead of 3) and 4 nights on the Amalfi Coast (instead of 3) since I want to do a few hikes. Naples, Capri and Lisbon remain the same.

Thanks again.

bookmarking

Here is a link to a great B & B in Amalfi, with excellent rates: http://www.residencedelduca.it/eng/index.htm

The only downside is that you have to climb 100 stairs to reach the hotel, but the price is right, the hosts are wonderful and the views are amazing!

Thanks Laura. I checked its website and it seems to be quite a good choice and it totally fits my budget!

Sounds good, Castellanese. I'm sure you won't regret staying in Amalfi. And I know someone who stayed at the Del Duca (on honeymoon) & loved it.

Ok, so thanks everybody for their opinions and sharing their experience. I think I'm all set.

Thanks again ;)

Castellanese,

I think you will be happy staying in Amalfi. Ravello is a bit of a trial to travel from/to for sightseeing. Even though it is beautiful, it's really small.

Since you are going to be in Campania for a good length of time, do try to make a trip down to Paestum to see the Greek temples. I did it as a day trip from Praiano and it was very worth while.

Buon viaggio!

By the way, has anybody on this forum ever done the Sentiero degli Dei and the Valle dei Mulini hike? I've seen pictures of them and while the first one seems to be breathtaking and the latter seems just nice. Any thoughts?

Thanks again.

I completely agre: Sentiero degli Dei is breathtaking and Valle dei Mulini (only !) very nice.
You can read about Sentiero degli Dei here: http://www.giovis.com/sentdei.htm
The author, Giovanni Visetti is a dear friend of mine and he is a very clever guide.
He knows the paths of Amalfi Coast and Penisola Sorrentina bar none.
Until few kilos ago I was one of his best pupils!

Ciao.

Vincenzo

Hi everybody (again),

I'm leaving for Campania and Sicily next June 21st and I'm having last minute second thoughts about Naples.

A few days ago, my mother met a guy from Campobasso, Molise, and practically bombed her with warnings and told her to talked me out of going to Naples because, according to him, Naples is one of the most dangerous, unpleasent and unattractive cities in Italy.

Now my mother is all worried and concerned about my safety.

I'm staying for 5 nights at a B&B called Bellini 67 located on Piazza Bellini (I'm dedicating two days to explore the city and two days to daytrip to Pompeii and Caserta). Do you guys have any advice concerning this area?

My bookguide says: "... in the city center simply be aware, not wary".

I like visiting all kinds of places and I'm very excited about going to Naples (specially for the food), but, since I usually read that most people stay for a couple of nights, I'm a little worried about spending 5 nights.

Any advice?

Thanks.

As you probably know, I spent two nights in Naples earlier this month. Our hotel was in Chiaia, a more upscale area than the center, but we walked a good bit in the center. The only overflowing garbage bins that I saw in the city itself were, coincidentally, in the Pza Bellini, but they were hardly anything to get worked up about from a tourist point of view. I do not know what this area is like at night, however, but I expect there are many people out and about until fairly late (there were in Chiaia) so the streets would hardly be deserted.

Based on what I experienced, I see no reason to be concerned. I happily could have filled 5 days/nights, especially since you will set aside one day to tour Pompeii and one for Caserta. Just take normal precautions when using public transportation..

I also spent two nights in Naples recently - just a little more recently than ekscrunchy. There was more garbage around than when I went through Naples in mid-April, but nothing to get too excited about.

I agree that there should be plenty for you to do in Naples for five days, especially if you're doing day trips. (Let me put in a plug for visiting Herculaneum as well as Pompeii.)

I stayed down by the port, and felt safe there at night as well as day time, although I did head up into the Spanish quarter at dusk one day in (unsuccessful) pursuit of a restaurant, and concluded I wouldn't feel comfortable there alone after dark.

I didn't have any problems with public transport, but crossing the street did remind me of Vietnam! You just have to step off the curb and keep walking... In general I was a bit disappointed with Naples - it has all the ingredients to be a beautiful city, overlaid with decades (centuries?) of neglect and grime. Up on the hill was much nicer, and my landlord thought things would improve after the metro system is finished.

Piazza Bellini is fine. You'll be fine.

As I probably said before, it's easy to fill a week in Naples without even leaving the city to go to Pompeii or anywhere else. We loved it and will go back. Currently just looking forward to passing through it in 17 days' time !

Thanks Ekscrunchy, Caroline and Thursdaysd for your replies.

By the way, I enjoyed your trip report of Naples and the Amalfi Coast very much, Ekscrunchy. The whole time I felt I was reading what I'm about to experience in less than a month.

Caroline, I also read your trip report of Naples, Ischia and the Amalfi Coast, and I remember your opinion about Naples being so interesting to keep you busy for an entire week. I'm also visiting Palermo and, if I'm not wrong, you have the same opinion about it.

Thanks again guys.

Re Palermo - absolutely ! It's somewhere else I'd love to go abck to.

Are you arriving in Naples on 21st June ? We'll be passing through that day on our way back from a week in Ischia, en route to pick up a hire car at the airport for the next leg of our hol.

Hi again Caroline,

I'm leaving on the 21st but I'll arrive on Sunday 22nd.

Castellanese.

Hi, Castellanese -

Last year, I stayed near the university in Naples, not far from the Piazza Bellini, and I agree with the other recent posters that you should be fine. Be alert (as in any city); be prepared for a vibrant, somewhat gritty, somewhat chaotic city; and enjoy yourself! And I agree that Naples offers more than enough to keep one busy for 5 days. My one regret about that trip is that I did not spend enough time there.

Ditto for Palermo - vibrant, dirty in parts and magnificent in others, and a ton of things to see and experience.

Enjoy!

Re Palermo - I haven't got my trip report off the east coast of Sicily yet, but I would say that if you're going to Palermo, don't miss the Palazzo Mirto, which has some remarkable embroideries. And do consider at least a day trip to Erice, which I found enchanting.

Thanks for the Palermo suggestions. I'm staying for 4 nights at a B&B recommended by Vicenzo called Il Mezzanino del Gattopardo on Via Alloro, La Kalsa. I'm dedicating 2 days to visit the city center and another one to visit the Capuchin Convent and Monreale.

Hey again,

Is June usually a rainy month in Campania? I'm leaving in less than 2 weeks and I've seen nothing but rainy days on the weather forecast. I'm hitting the Amalfi Coast afterwards and I was looking forward to sunny days on the beach.

You guys certainly calmed down concerning my safety in Naples and the area where I'm satying, but what about the Spanish Quarter? I've read it's a rather dangerous place. Should I avoid it? Is it worth visiting it?

Man, I've realized I've asked a lot of questions on this thread. Perhaps, it's the wait what's making me come up with all these doubts.

Anyhow, thanks again.

I've visited Campania lots of times in June and with the exception of one year it's been hot all the time (apart from Ravello which we found rather chilly in the shade and at night, presumably because it's high up). The exception was two years ago when we had a few cool days, with rain on two of them, in our first two and a half weeks; and it only really settled down to being hot enough for me on the 15th (which happens to be my birthday). So since then I've refused to go on holiday any earlier than my birthday (well, this year we are going the day before - practically counting the hours now !).

The Spanish Quarter didn't feel any different from any other part of the centre, to me. Just follow usual big city precautions everywhere - be alert and be careful with your possessions. I walked around all week with a small shoulder handbag containing necessities including one debit card, DH carried his wallet in his front trouser pocket & a shoulder bag containing camera, guidebook, etc - no problem.

I just completed reading Gamorrah by Roberto Saviano. Oerhaps it is the translation, but the book is very uninteresting, and pretty difficult reading, inasmuch as there is no continuity between the episodes about which he writes.

Hi Waldo,
I'm sorry you found Saviano's book uninteresting..I read Gamorrah a couple of months ago also, but I had a different reaction entirely, and felt I learned a great deal about and gained new insight into the area around Naples. I actually almost didn'tput the book down until I finished it!
I also went to hear Roberto Saviano speak in NYC at the PEN writer's conference, and the auditorium was packed, with lines out into the street. He got a long standing ovation from the audience, so some others must have thought the book worthwhile reading too...

There's also a movie (not the film version of Gamorrah, which was recently released) but another documentary film about Campania and the waste disposal problems that are getting so much media attention now, which puts some human faces on the stories: It's called "Biútiful Cauntri" (a play on English) and will be shown at the Open Roads Italian film festival now running in New York. I'll be seeing it tomorrow, and I think it will be interesting.

I, too, found Saviano's book to be quite interesting. Too bad it's not fiction ...