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We are just back from a cruise of the Eastern Med. and ended our trip with a few days in Venice. We stayed at the Giorgione in the Cannaregio area. Although we had never been to Venice, we found walking a wonderful experience and only got lost once. The weather was warm and so walking was not a problem. We only used the vaporetto once. We really loved Venice and will return for a longer visit in the future.
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We stayed at the Best Western Monte Carlo in the San Marco area in May 2005, and loved the location. Yes, it is crowded, but it is wonderful to be right near the sqaure at night when the music is playing.
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Well, the Wikipedia entry is certainly very precise - but the difference between settecento and 18th century is of course minimal. The years 1701 to 1799 are included in both terms; the only difference is that additionally, settecento includes the year 1700 while 18th century includes the year 1800, instead. So what? And why not translate settecento into 18th century? The official website of the Civic Museums of Venice translates it that way, too: http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it/f...;sezione=musei - Museum of the 18th century is in fact Ca' Rezzonico's official English name.
What's more important: why should Ca' Rezzonico be "much older than" 18th century? Fodor's don't need to fix anything - Ca' Rezzonico was built from 1667 to 1682 by Baldassare Longhena, that's true, but since the owner, Filippo Bon, was running short of funds, they had to leave the site unfinished; the palazzo got a provisional roof, and the works were stopped. Only in 1745 - settecento as well as 18th century! -, they continued: Giorgio Massari (later the architect of Palazzo Grassi) built the two upper storeys and the rear wing with the magnificent staircase and, most important, the ballroom. To sum it up, the entire interior design and more than half of the building itself belong to the years from 1745 to 1756 - mid 18th century, thus, and that's what you see in the museum. Even the name is 18th century: the Rezzonico family bought the palazzo - still during its construction - in 1750. |
Agree with the majority of posters to stay in Venice itself, but not in the San Marco area.
I love Dorsoduro, and that is where I'll continue to lay my head. To AnnetteW: I cannot recommend Hotel Alla Salute da Cici. Stayed there for five days in 2004 and was seriously disappointed. Great location (of course!) but I would not return. |
I agree with Franco. If you look at any other post about where to stay for any other city everyone suggest staying where the sights are. Do you want to spend money on where you stay or on commuting? We stayed at the Hotel Corte Grimani. It was fabulous. We could go to San Marco plaza three times a day and back to the hotel for lunch. A short walk to Rialto then to San Marco and then back to Rialto. Being close lets you see the sights at various times in the day and have someplace to hang out for short rests. We also went to Dorsoduro and Cannaregio. I would not want to stay in either. Too quiet and too far away from the main attractions.
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We stayed in a small hotel off the beaten path and loved walking around to see the sites. One caveat, however. Make sure you have good directions to get there. We walked from the bus and got confused by the address system. A mail carrier couldn't even help us. Finally, my sister spotted a paternal looking shopkeeper who looked like he knew/owned the whole neighborhood. He knew where our hotel was and gave us directions.
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"Make sure you have good directions to get there." Good advice, jdbird.
With one caveat: the wonderful -- & totally unique -- thing about La Serenissima is that getting lost is half the fun! |
We spent 2 days in Venice in early July. We stayed in Dorsoduro and LOVED it! Venice has gotten so touristy, but Venetians really live in that area. We watched children playing soccer and riding bikes in the main square, Campo Santa Margherita, on a Saturday evening.
To me, Venice is a city to wander around in, rather than to see a lot of sights. You couldn't pay me to stay in the San Marco area--lots of shops catering to tourists and hordes of cruise ship passengers. It is very easy to walk from Dorsoduro to San Marco to take in those sights. Then you can return to Dorsoduro and soak up the ambience of Venice the way it used to be 20 years ago. |
If you're looking for a 3 star, mid-range hotel, I would recommend the Hotel Ala about a 5 min. walk to San Marco Sq. (an easy-to-find route) and on the same square as Gritti Palace. Very quiet and has the convenience of being on a canal if you want to take a water taxi right to the door rather than wandering around lost with luggage; also, gondolas often pass by and if they have singers, you're alerted to look out your window and think, "This really is Venice". Best breakfast I've ever had in Europe. It became a Best Western about 4 or 5 years ago, but don't let that influence you negatively. (We have found BWs to be entirely different in Europe - often quite charming older places - and I suspect hotels join the chain mainly for the visibility and reservation service.) We were delighted to be able to get to San Marco, especially at night to listed to music in the cafes, etc., but to be able to get back to our quiet hotel in practically no time at all.
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Oh please - gondolas with singers, this is really Venice???? You can't be serious on that!
It is really Venice if you're carrying your mineral water bottles home across a bunch of bridges. It is really Venice if you experience the unearthly snobbishness, and the fascinating grandezza, of the old aristocratic families (the telephone book of Venice is full of descendants of the grand doges' families - now, they're lawyers, tax advisers, real estate brokers...). It is really Venice if you happen to become a patron of a restaurant (and they do accept you quickly as a patron, independent from your nationality), thus paying about three quarters of the official prices. It is really Venice if you get a local to take you out into the lagoon in his small private boat. But the gondola singers, they're a nightmare: wannabe tenors or baritones who squeak songs that are not even Venetian, but (with one exception, "Andiamo in gondola, che voluttà", you see I know their repertoire by heart!) NEAPOLITAN. Do I need say more? (Ask any Venetian about Naples, and you'll understand what it means that they're singing Neapolitan songs.) |
I beg to differ, Franco. For those of us who aren't as well-versed in Italy as you are, and who don't have a jaded attitude toward Venice, hearing a singing gondolier is enchanting. I will never forget hearing one singing "Ave Maria" on Mother's Day this past May, gliding by on the canal below my hotel room window. It will always give me goosebumps to remember that moment.
Yes, I know it's corny. And he wasn't Andrea Boccelli, but he was good and it was special to me. I think other tourists might like an experience like that, too. To answer the OPs question, we, too, struggled with which neighborhood in Venice would be best. We were there before the throngs of tourists, so weren't worried about being close to San Marco. It was fine for us. Having a room at the confluence of two canals was my top priority. Venice is small, and I really don't think you can pick a bad area to stay in. :)>- |
A vote for San Marco here! We stayed in a small, moderately priced B&B right around the corner from San Marco and loved it. The best time to be there is early in the day and late at night and if you're staying near by, you'll get to experience San Marco at it's most beautiful and most serene. One morning we had the entire expanse almost entirely to ourselves. It's magical. Enjoy your time in Venice!
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MaureenB- re Franco: I've not seen anything to date that would indicate to me the "well versed" part-if others wish to believe that, well obviously, that's their opinion.
Each of the sestiere (districts) of Venice have their own charms, it's true. The more trips you take to Venice, you might want to experience different districts such as Cannaregio, San Polo or Castello-but they are all interesting. And as far as "singing gondoliere" who would not prefer to hear that, than someone gunning their automobile engine, laying down on the car horn, or having those pasky motorinos nipping at your heels-for my part, I'll take the singing gondoliere anyday over THAT. |
My husband and I have stayed in Venice many many times and we now have a SHORT list of lovely hotels that are not super costly: However, in answer to your question, I feel that location IS important. Staying in the sestiere (area) of Venice called Dorsoduro or San Polo - or even Santa Croce has been, for us, the best choice. These areas are on the opposite side of the canal from San Marco and the crowded shopping area around Rialto. Although they are away from the San Marco/Rialto crowds, they are easy walks to both, as well as the wonderful places on the Dorsodura, San Polo and Santa Croce side of the grand canal that are exciting to visit. The 3 hotels I am happy to recommend are: Hotel Basilea - it's on the Rio Marin in Santa Croce - about a 10 minute walk from Piazzale Roma or the Train station. The other is a smaller hotel in Dorsoduro called Locanda San Barnaba (my 1st choice). It is a 1 minute stroll from the Ca Rezonico Vaparetto stop (a real consideration - NO bridges)just off the Campo San Barnaba and very central to wonderful restaurants etc. # 3 is a hotel we will stay at in March called Ca Angeli. It's on the Grand Canal in the Sestiere of San Polo close to the Campo San Polo and also near a vaparetto stop...no bridges here either to cross to get you and your luggage to the hotel! We have NEVER stayed there but visited last may for future reference..Barnaba did not have rooms for us for all the days we will be in Venice in March and Ca Angeli does...that's why we're not staying at Barnaba this time. Ca Angeli has wonderful reviews - go to their web site..also San Barnaba web site and you can choose. If these hotels don't work there is another that we've heard good reports of and I like the area - Hotel American. It's also in Dorsoduro, close to the Accademia museum and the Guggenheim museum and my MOST favorite place to buy glass jewelry in all of Venice!
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No, it is not necessary to stay in the San Marco area, as it is very crowded. You can see all the sights and not stay in San Marco. Do not stay in Mestre. It may be more expensive to stay in Venice, but worth every euro! You didn't mention when you were going to Venice?
Our family has visited Venice 2x--In June 2002 and July 2005. On the first visit we stayed 2 nights right on the Grand Canal, steps away from the Rialto Bridge--Hotel Rialto. We had a quad room and it was pricy--350 euros per night. The view was amazing but we decided that for the 4 nights we were spending there in July 2005 we didn't need to stay on the Grand Canal. In 2005, we stayed at a lovely place called Albergo Guerrato (www.pensioneguerrato.it)which is in an 800 year old bldg. It was located just a few minutes from the Rialto Bridge (I believe in the San Polo district) just a minute away from the huge Rialto Fruit and Produce Market, which we frequented every morning. We had a very large quad room with a huge new bathroom. It also had A/C. I believe we paid around 150 euros per night, which included a nice breakfast of yogurt, cold creal, etc. Brother-in-laws, Roberto and Piero, run the place and are very friendly. The place is also very easy to find. Contrary to another posting, we found the Vaporetti an easy and quick way to get around and purchased 3 day passes which we used alot, especially since we were visiting Murano and Burano. It is fun to get "lost" in Venice and just wander, which we did alot of, especially on our 2nd visit. With your time restrictions, you may not want to just spend time wandering, but concentrate on the main sights. |
Regarding my above posting on Albergo Guerrato, we stayed in the top floor "Guerratino" which is in the same bldg. as the Albergo Guerrato. They also have apt. available.
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Hi,
We just returned from Venice and stayed at a very nice hotel within walking distance to St Marks, Bridge of Sighs and the Rialto Bridge. The name of the hotel is "Tribute to Music" and you can book on Venere.com. Ask for Martina- very informative, and pleasent. They also serve a complimentary breakfast and the price is very much affordable. |
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