Hotels for Granada, Ronda, Nerja
 

After reading massive amounts of Fodorites' messages--thank you all-- (you know who you are), my DH and I (in our 60s)have much of our September trip to Spain figured out except hotels in Granada, Ronda and Nerja. I read Granada is hard to drive into and we'll have a car for this leg of the trip. Should we stay near Alhambra or is no place good for driving into the city? We are looking for a quiet,three star-type hotel, around 110+ euros. I've been reading, reading, reading but always appreciate hearing where you stayed and what you liked and disliked. Thanks for any help on this.

If you can splurge a little, you've got to try the AC Palacio de Santa Paula. It's a perfect location for strolling the town in the evening and the hotel is fantastic. It has to be one of the best hotels we've ever stayed. Check it out on the web.

oops, the AC Palacio de Santa Paula is in Granada

I didn't think Granada was all that hard to drive into. Traffic IN the city is the usual but other than that.

Stayingnear the Alhambra, e.g., at the Parador, the America, or the third place nearby would be ideal if your main purpose was to visit the Alhambra and that's all since it is definitely somewhat isolated at the top of the hill.

With a car you could stay nearby or even in main part of the city itself.

Hotel Reina Cristina
www.hotelreinacristina.com

C/ Tablas 4
18002 Granada, Spain
+34 958 253 211


Fabulous hotel and location. Would definitely stay there again.

There are several good hotels in Ronda, browse according to your budget and tell us what your choices are.

Thanks for your responses. Maybe my fear about driving into Granada is unfounded. I like the looks of Palacio de Santa Paula but we usually try to stay at smaller hotels. Josele, I've read many of your postings and appreciated your knowledge. In Ronda I thought a smaller hotel, family run would be nice like Hotel San Gabriel or Don Benito but Reina Victoria which is larger looks grand. Any other advice?--I have looked at Trip Advisor and Rick Steves for help.
Also, no one mentioned a place in Nerja---any thoughts?

Perhaps I can help you with Nerja although I have never stayed in hotels there as we always rent.

Check TripAdvisor. The first three I listed would be my preference:

Hotel Carabeo; cute, great location. That street is being torn up but they are stopping work for the summer holidays. I don't know the status of the work in September; it could be a mess!

Paraiso del Mar; beautiful, next to the Parador. This would be my first choice.

Plaza Cavana; at the end of the Balcon so no sea views but in the middle of the action.
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Hotel Balcon de Europa gets mixed reviews. It is well located.

Rui Monica and Los Arcos are not well located IMO.
Tobaso has a good location but mixed reviews.
Tres Soles is clean and cheap, not fancy. It is also on Carabeo so would have the same problems as Hotel Carabeo.
Nerja Princess is a few blocks from the sea but a pretty good location.

If you are going to be there for just a few days I think you want a location near the center. I am partial to the east side.

We are Americans who have been to Nerja at least ten times. If you would like more info on hotels and/or restaurants feel free to email me. pj2592atmacdotcom.

Have a wonderful trip!

As far as I know, Judi's recs are OK.
The San Gabriel has received good reviews here, it is located in the old quarters, but with no view to the gorge. It has no parking, and this can be a problem there. The Reina Victoria is Ronda's classic hotel, and the one I have used most. It is old, but recently renovated. They keep the room poet Rilke occupied in the 1910s. Its halls and terraces overview the cliff, and it has free parking facilities, and it is a short walk to the Plaza de Toros.

I forgot the Don Benito, I do not know it, but I see it is not in Ronda, but outside of it on the road to Algodonales. For walking in Ronda I'd rec the other two, especially the Reina Victoria if you have a car.

In Granada, we stayed at Casa del Capital Nazari - which had been recommended in NYTimes shortly before our trip to Spain in Oct 2005 - 3star smaller hotel off of the Plaza Nueva, close to the mini-buses for trip up to Alhambra (& other mini-buses that Granada runs in loops around town mainly for tourists)& for walking to the Cathedral & Albaicin.

We were just in Granada for an overnight stay - (as we were staying at timeshare on Costa del Sol - I had flown over from NYC to met up with my parents (early 70s)for week there & doing various sidetrips)- primarily to visit the Alhambra but due to locale of hotel found it easy to roam up to Ablaicin & also to/around the Cathedral area.

Hotel was charming, breakfast included & staff friendly & helpful. Upon online booking, they sent instructions for parking at an underground parking garage in a large plaza that was just southeast of the Cathedral area. I was surprised how easy it was to drive from the highway to the parking garage - although we came in from the west, I went alittle south & took an exit that brought us pretty easily to the plaza where the parking was; I think I supplemented the hotel driving instructions by using michelin or other online maps to double check the route into Granada to the parking; parking was easy & safe - drove into Granada & out, spent rest of time walking. We tried to take a taxi from the plaza to hotel but discovered most did not want to - it turned out it was close enough to walk - a few blocks - even with a wheel luggage & non-wheel overnight bags - many streets in the section of town by Plaza Nueva are either pedestrian or one-car narrow/one way. We found by walking &/or taking the Grenada mini-buses we got around with no problems.

We had arrived & checked in by early afternoon & spent rest of day wandering over to Cathedral area & up to Albaicin. There are tapas & wine bars on back streets from Plaza Nueva towards the Cathedral - there is one winebar Rick Steves mentions in his guidebook that was wonderful - small & local with friendly, helpful barman & delicious innovative tapas/small plates to pair with the wines.

Granada is very polluted & industrial-looking as you drive to it & I thought I was not going to like it much, but once situated found it very condusive to wandering & exploring. And the Alhambra a wonderful experience - we spent at least 4 hours there just wandering all over - the architecture, pools, gardens so beautiful & so interesting; I rented one headset tour which turned out to be very helpful - we went to the Generalife first then worked our way down to the Alhambra itself & our timed early afternoon entry.

Thanks for great ideas. I'm a bit stressed as my 89 year old mom just fell and I must fly to her. Will truly take a good look when I return next week!

We stayed at Casa Morisca in 2006 and it was lovely.I believe it's in your price range. Our room had a slice of a view of the Alhambra from the balcony. It was very quiet, the breakfast was quite good, beds comfortable, and it's in a perfect location. You don't need to use your car in Granada, because most things are within walking distance and the buses are very conventient. One runs very near the hotel. Get a Granada card for the buses because it's cheaper than paying each time, if you're going to be there a few days. If you still can, get your tickets to the Alhambra ahead of time online. Enjoy!

Good luck with you mom I hope she is ok.

ams

Regarding your Ronda hotel:

I've stayed at both the sweet little San Gabriel and the "faded elegance" Reina Victoria.

I think you'd prefer the San Gabriel as a stay here is just more special. Since it's much smaller, more personal attention is given to guests. It's also owned and run by a lovely, well connected Ronda family, has its own diminutive movie theater, is filled with antiques and is quiet since it's tucked away in the atmospheric Arab quarter. They will park your car for you. It's also an excellent value. Receives 3 red gables for charm in the '08 Spain/Portugal Michelin guide.

The larger (88 room) Husa Reina Victoria has a sort of faded grandeur. It's not the grand dame it once was when the poet Rilke resided, but the stunning views of the Tajo and Serranía de Ronda from the garden remain the same. Make sure to walk up to see those views.

We just returned from Granada and got a look at both the Capitel Nazarí and the Casa Morisca-lots of charm in both. We also had a tour of the AC Palacio de Santa Paula, which is my favorite downtown lodging, with its own Casa Morisca inside with private patio (blissfully quiet)-oodles of charm, but 204 euros in Sept.

But if you're coming by car and wish NOT to tackle finding your way to the Albaicín (not an easy chore for the uninitiated-or even for us, for that matter), you might want to consider the Hotel América, in your price range. It's a 19th century, 16 room, family run inn, just below the Parador, within the Alhambra grounds. Rates begin at 115.
www.hotelamericagranada.com

The Guadalupe, across from the ticket office, between 2 souvenir shops, is tidy, functional, less expensive but doesn't have as much granadino charm.
But the 4th floor rooms have jacuzzi baths and some have views of the complex.

I feel compelled to mention all this because driving up to the Alhambra hill hotels is just a SNAP-much, much easier, less stressful than negotiating the downtown labryinth.
Signage downtown leaves a great deal to be desired and parking a bear. (The AC does have a valet who will rescue you and relieve you of parking).

To reach the Alhamba hill, take the Ronda Sur, which avoids completely the maze of downtown Granada (and it's very heavy traffic with motorcycles coming in and out at you). It takes you thru a tunnel and leads you directly to the Alhambra parking lots. Past the lots, you'll see signs to the Parador and Hotel America down the hill.

And if staying there, you can easily walk up the evening before to the ticket office to the Servicaixa machines (in their own separate little building to the right) to pick up your tickets, if you've ordered them in advance at
www.alhambra-tickets.es (must swipe the same c.c. that you used to purchase your tickets).

With the crowds visiting the Alhambra these days, I now strongly suggest purchasing your ticket for the earliest slot (8:30-9) for entrance to the Nasrid Palaces. (you can see the rest of the complex at your leisure) This is easier to do if staying at an Alhambra hill hotel. You can get an early start, see the Nasrid Palace rooms, come back to a late breakfast, visit the rest of the complex-Generalife, Charles V Palace (Alhambra Museum, Fine Arts Museum), Alcazaba, later on.

Staying on the hill is also handy for the night visit, which is magical (and less crowded) and makes a lovely addition to your Granada stay.

The red "Alhambra bus" minibus system (30, 32 go to the Alhambra, 34 to the Albaicín) works very well. They run until 11:30 pm and cost 1 euro.

I second Scoz's comments about Casa del Capital Nazari in Granada.

We stayed at this hotel last April and loved it. A renaissance palace built in 1503 in a great area of the Albaicin, right in front of the Alhambra, and close to the cathedral. It is quirky and unique and it's location is superb.

Amazingly good rates (80 euro per night for a double room in 2007) and wonderfully helpful staff.

The hotel has two websites. The first is:

http://www.hotelcasacapitel.com/

The hotel group that now own it has details at the following address, including rates etc. (in 2008 a double room in April is only 88 euro)

http://tinyurl.com/3867y2

Sitting each afternoon enjoying those free coffees and tapas in its little internal courtyard surrounded by ornate balconies was one of the highlights of our trip.

Joe

Well, I am back from visiting mom and feeling so disconnected with these travel plans but here goes.

I liked/loved most of the places recommended but rates, size of hotel and location in that order helped me determine my choices. I checked every single hotel mentioned!
Seville--Amadeus
Granada--Hotel America
Ronda--San Gabriel
Judi--I'm waiting to hear back from Nerja about road construction as we like Hotel Carabeo's looks.

Now all I need is to figure out whether to check in rental car at Granada and take some form of transportation to Madrid airport and home or drive from Granada to Madrid. Any thoughts? Maybe a new post would be best :)

I must add that this forum has been a life saver over and over again as we've travelled. Seeing your varied comments, figuring out who I'm more like and therefore what fits us and then just holding your breath and reserving has been half the fun of going anywhere in Europe. I've rarely been disappointed.

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Also, no one mentioned a place in Nerja---any thoughts?
>>>>>

i can't be much help with specific nerja hotels. but in general, they cater to package tours and are not a good value if you book by the night. the quality of most is mediocre as they are aimed at package deals.

obviously the parador is an exception to this. best choice if you can afford it.

for location, i think you should stay in town rather than out in burriana beach area. use the balcon as your centre point. although you will be told that burriana is close to town, the area is very hilly and you will feel isolated from town due to a mountain you will need to climb to get to town. all of nerja is very popular with british and scandinavian tourists but burriana is a british ghetto and has absolutely no spanish flavour. if you like chips and beans, stay here. anything east of the parador hotel is a down the very steep hill and into burriana area.

hotel rui monica is about as far west as you would want to be located if being close to the restaurants is important to you. try to get closer if you don't want to walk a lot. although the distances look similar, you are much better off around rui monica than you would be out east in burriana, imo.

We stayed at the Paraiso in Nerja. Stunning location. Great staff. Parking. Nice breakfast. Lots of restaurants within a 10 minute walk. I would stay there again without the slightest reservation.

For pictures & description see my trip report:
http://members.rennlist.com/imcarthur/spain3.htm

Ian

abynrml2106,
I think you'll be happy with your hotel choices. They're family run, good values for the money and very pleasant.

Regarding Granada, you certainly don't need a car there, and I feel compelled to stress that we've found it actually to be a handicap keeping one there, unless staying at an easy-to-reach Alhambra hill hotel with free parking.

Since it's a long car trip from Granada back to Madrid (420 km), you may want to consider flying back on Spanair. They have a flight departing at 11:50, arriving Madrid at 12:50. I see a one way fare for Sept. of 40.07€ total.

Renfe only runs two daily trains; one at 6:42 am and the other at 6 pm. The trip takes a long 4 hr. 40 min. If you purchase your ticket at least 15 days prior to departure, you can get a deeply discounted WEB fare for 23.75€ (just checked-they're available 62 days out)

Just some thoughts for you to consider...

I overlooked mentioning the Parador in Nerja. The building itself has no character but the rooms were updated a few years ago. It has a lovely garden and an elevator down to the Burriana beach. ( I don't know of any hotels at Burriana.)

The Hotel Carabeo is perfectly located. Have you heard back about the street construction? I know it will be suspended during the tourist season but don't know how far into September that goes.

I agree with Ian that the Paraiso is lovely. If you are interested in Burriana beach the Parador would be a better choice because of the elevator. If not, I would choose the Paraiso.

I hope your mother is doing okay and your plans are coming together.

i had forgotten about the paraiso. very nice grounds and a good location.

judi, there is at least one hotel in burriana...it's just up the hill directly behind the strip of restaurants....about a million stairs to climb. but i also mentioned it if they decided to stay in a flat or villa as there is a huge supply of them in this area and it is very popular (for some strange reason).

I just noticed Hotel Carabeo is closed until mid-April so I probably won't hear back! Grrrrr
So maybe we'll splurge at Paraiso del Mar.
Walkinaround/Judi/Ian--is Paraiso on Burriana Beach? I'm not crazy about the comments "isolated and hilly" and would stay away from that. The pictures of Paraiso look wonderful but your comments are more compelling as to how grand it is.
Ian--wonderful and helpful trip report. Still taking notes.

Maribel: I haven't gotten a car reservation yet. Our plan is Barcelona 5 days, plane to Seville. Pick up a car in Seville going to Ronda(2 nights), Nerja (2), and Granada (2 nights). I wonder if it is less expensive to drive or fly to Madrid from Granada. I'll have to check that. I don't mind driving but hate the idea of a car sitting in Granada for 2 days and not using it. Spanair might be the ticket!

Yes, walkinaround, I do remember that hotel halfway up the hill. I never hear anything about it; I wonder if they only do package holidays.

abynrm, the east side of Nerja is on a cliff so the beach is accessed by a bunch of stairs from the Paraiso. The Parador's elevator to the beach is only for guests of the hotel. If you do a google image search of Nerja you can see what I mean.

I admit to being prejudiced (and I have been to Ronda) but I question your allocating the same amount of nights for Ronda and Nerja. What are your plans for two nights in Ronda?

abynrm

See this picture:
http://tinyurl.com/325aor

The Parador's elevator is on the right & the Paraiso's stairs (141 of them) are on the left with the Paraiso above. There are landings on the way up & down so you can take the climb slowly.

The Parador has larger grounds & more rooms + a restaurant. It is set back a lot more from the headland than the Paraiso but both overlook Burriana. The Paraiso is much smaller & intimate. There is a condo on the other side of it.

Ian

abynrm...to be clear, Parador and Paraiso are both on the fringes of town on top of the cliff so both are a very easy, flat walk into town (e.g. balcon area). perhaps 5 mintutes. nerja is positioned on top of a cliff. burriana is at the bottom of the cliff off to the east of town. there are a few small beaches just below town that are accessed via stairways. the town gradually flattens down to the beach so hotels on the western end of town (e.g. rui monica area) are located directly on the beach level.

as far as beaches go, burriana is the best one in town. i would say that the beaches in front of the western hotels are the roughest. it's worth noting that there are a couple of good fish shacks on the beach west of the western hotels...just keep walking and you'll see them.

i THINK that the paraiso stairs down to the beach might be closed but i'm not sure. the paved walk that winds from burriana to the beaches just below the centre of town is definitely closed due to erosion....probably permanently unless major work is done. this means that the only way between burriana and balcon area (or the parador/paraiso area) is via the paved switchback trail near the parador or up the parador lift. nerja maps still show the beach level trail as open but it most definitely not. this gives a false impression that it's a very easy flat stroll to get between burriana and town.

it should be noted that the parador lift has been out of order almost every time i've seen it (several times). and it is only for hotel guests.

hope this helps.

ian and walkinaround, thank you so much for the information. I have written Paraiso for reservations with the knowledge that we will be in an area where we can relax and do some sightseeing. I really appreciated your detail of the beach and what the place feels like.
More questions on a new post I'm sure!

Be aware that not all the rooms at Paraiso face the sea.

abynrml2106,
I would go with the cheap Spanair ticket.
Absolutely no reason to pay for a car in a garage in Granada for 2 days. The little red Alhambra minibus system works well and takes you to and from the Alhambra from downtown and up and around the Albayzín.

I second the Hotel Reina Cristina, you pull up outside the hotel, they help you unload and then they park the car for you.

In Ronda, the parador is wonderful, try to get room 13 on the ground floor - 2 sided balcony with wonderful views.

I noticed you orignally wrote:

Barcelona 5 days, plane to Seville. Pick up a car in Seville going to Ronda(2 nights), Nerja (2), and Granada (2 nights)

If you can rearrange this way:

Barcelona 5 days, plane to Granada. Pick up a car in Granada (after stay) going to Nerja(2 nights), Ronda(2), and drop off car in Sevilla (2 nights).

Then you can AVE train from Sevilla to Madrid and avoid all the airport procedure hassles and cattle class seats.

A few more comments that may be helpful:
I stayed at the Parador in Nerja last year, and it is good value for the price, especially if you can get the GOLDEN DAYS seniors discount.
in Grananda, please consider the hotel Los Migueletes: fantastic!
Good luck!

I had thought most people would stop reading this thread and haven't checked it daily. Sorry. Now that all my flights are reserved I can't change them without cost but I'd agree with gregg. I shoud have flown to Granada from BCN and taken the trip the other way. Oh well.
We do have 2 nights in Nerja at the Paraiso with a sea view thanks to many of your posts about it.

Just returned from a trip to Granada (March 19-21 2008) and stayed at the Hotel Aben Humeya which was close to the Cathedral (10min walking distance) and to the tea houses. Don´t miss the tea houses- you will get a taste of the moroccon influence in this tiny alley way and the souveniors and teas are better than those sold outside the cathedral.

bookmarking thank you

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