Hotel d"Aubusson, Paris
 

Since this hotel has been mentioned in earlier threads and Fodorites, in general, want to know about good accommodations in Paris, I am reporting on my nine day stay here during the just-past Christmas holiday. I booked a room on the Internet and, not having done it in time to get a package, I paid the rack rate. Unwilling to pay what I considered an enormous price for anything along the breakfast line, I went out, usually to a Paul's bakery and pastry shop, two blocks away. There were other places to eat, too. This was no great inconvenience. In fact, it had the advantage of giving me a chance to see everyday life, from housewives hurrying to the grocery store to a steady parade of dogs.

My first impression, arriving at the entrance, was disbelief that this was the four star hotel spoken highly of by almost all guide books. The exterior is modest. The lobby is modest, as well. Elsewhere, there is a nice dining area, a well-stocked bar, and a lounge with a twenty-foot high ceiling made of ancient timbers and a six-foot open marble fireplace. In this great room, there was a tall spruce decorated for Christmas, packages under the tree, and a three-foot white reindeer. Christmas stockings and candelabra on the mantle added to the festive air.

The bedroom and bath were of nice size, with all the amenities that one would expect at a good hotel.

One feature of the hotel is gift-giving. Almost every night, before bedtime, something arrived: an ice bucket with champagne, a brioche (symbol of hospitality), an embossed metal box, a set of playing cards in an embossed metal casket, and a box of chocolates.

The service at the hotel was impeccable and the desk staff always helpful. There was a hands-on manager, from whom I received an extra bottle of champagne and nice cookies when there was a problem with the hot water.

Even more outstanding than the overall atmosphere of the d'Aubusson were the fireplace and the location. Even in the morning, there were usually the last embers of the fire from the night before and the staff was always ready to rebuild it, so that, really, the fireplace was going most of the time. It was wonderful to come in from the cold and stand there before it. The hotel is close to Place St. Michel and the Odeon, with their Metro connections. Notre Dame is a 10-15 minute walk, as are Les Halles, St. Eustache, and the Pompidou Center. Two restaurants nearby that I enjoyed were Allard and La Rotisserie d'en Face.

As favorably impressed as I am with Hotel d'Aubusson, there is one caveat. I wonder if the accommodation is worth it in warm weather when the fireplace has lost its attraction. That's an individual thing, of course. I booked it specifically because of the fireplace and the cheerfulness I hoped it would add to traveling alone at Christmas. It did and this hotel would be my first choice another Christmas. But, what about July? ZZ

Last July the fireplace would have come in handy

even cafes were turning on their outdoor heatings at times apparently

We stayed at Hotel d'Aubusson in July, and would go back in a heartbeat. The rooms, service, and location are outstanding.

"My first impression, arriving at the entrance, was disbelief that this was the four star hotel spoken highly of by almost all guide books."

Given your overall experience I'd say your declaration again proves the old adage about not judging a book (hotel) by its cover (entrance).

Zambezi, thanks for the report.

Zambezi Thanks for taking the time to give a mini review of your hotel. I really appreciate it.

Theresa in Detroit.

We are booked there for 3 nights in May, so was glad to read your 'take'. I do not usually stay in 4 star hotels, but I had listened to jazz in their cafe and liked the look of the hotel. We too are paying the 'rack' rate as none of the packages fit our needs. Were you in a standard room?

Hopingtotravel: I was in a standard room on the third floor facing the front of the hotel. One entered via a short hallway, with the closet (and safe) on one side and the bath on the other. A door separated the hallway from the bedroom. It had a double bed (don't know what the hotel does about guests who require twin beds), dresser, mini refrigerator (stocked), TV (CNN, BBC, German, Italian, and French stations), small round table, three chairs, a floor lamp, and bedside tables with bedlamps. There were two large windows or French doors, covered by decorative curtains. The bathroom had a heated towel rack and a bath tub with shower. The room was very comfortable and cozy.

I should add that the jazz group is very good. It plays (or, at least, did play) on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights from about 7:30 p.m. on. There is a 10 Euro minimum for the first drink in the lounge during this time. ZZ

We are reserved at Hotel d'Aubusson for a week mid-Jan. I am a frequent traveler to Paris, but have always stayed at Hotel Muguet during the warmer months. I am excited to try out a new hotel, a new area of town, and a new season. The fireplace at the Hotel d'Aubusson sounds wonderful. Thanks for the heads up about your first impression, I will not let it negatively influence my overall view of the hotel.
Since I have always visited Paris during perfect walking weather, do you have some advise about going in January?

Thanks Zambezi. Sounds roomier than my last Paris Hotel, although I think I was expecting a queen size bed.

Now that I think about it, I would not swear that the bed was a double. It could have been a queen, but there were so many pillows and so much linen that the bed size seemed somewhat secondary---and it was only I occupying it.

As to visiting Paris in mid-January, my first piece of advice is to wear a comfortable pair of boots. I had ankle length water resistance boots that I sprayed with waterproofing. Even though, luckily, I didn't need them for the anticipated rain, they were good for cold weather. Every woman in Paris is wearing boots. Of course, take a good coat, scarf, hat, and gloves. Tights under slacks are also warm. The kind of cold Paris had seemed colder to me that what I'm accustomed to here in Georgia. ZZ

We stayed at their sister hotel Milessime. I think I recall there was one little wooden chair and table but not really room to have suitcases open, so anything bigger will be wonderful. However, the white all-marble bathroom was quite nice.

We've stayed there several times and each room (even within the same category) was very different in size and arrangement. We love it and always recommend it to friends.

another opinion...

We stayed at the Hotel d'Aubusson in November for 3 nights also with no discount on the room but with a "Romantic Weekend Package". I had the same initial experience of being a bit let-down based on the price. We did have breakfast and "tea" included in our rate which I think was around 500 USD per night. The breakfast was fine, poor service (slow and often times no one there), cold tea, and I must admit the mini-croissants were a bit of a let-down for Paris. However there was a very complete spread of fruit, cheese, eggs etc. Next time I'd skip the breakfast esp. if I could reduce the room rate.

Most afternoons the fire was at a pretty low ember and the parlor furnishings were quite soiled (time to recover!) even my not-so-picky daughter noticed. The tea was fine although it took a long time for someone to come out and serve it. At check-out they did charge us for it as I didn't understand I needed to present a voucher for it at the time. I had to speak to the manager somewhat assertively to have the charge removed. Also, the "free tea" is only for one day not tea everyday. This wasn't clear to me from the advertised special but fortunately we were only there one day at tea time. I would not have wanted to pay extra for it... Just a cup of standard tea and a cookie. Lots of other places in Paris that'd be nicer for that. In fact, I highly recommend Laduree a few blocks around the corner...

The desk staff was considerate and helpful esp. given that we were there during the transit strike. They were very good about tracking down my lost luggage. They also were great about passing on messages from my husband as I had some cellphone trouble that weekend.

There is a nice courtyard that looked like it would be lovely in good weather but served as a smoking area in the cold weather.

We were so tired every night we never got to the jazz bar, but it seemed quite popular and nicely done. Ironically, this was one of the reasons I chose the spot as my daughter loves Jazz but we walked everywhere due to the strike and by 10 each night were ready to sleep.

Our room was a double (two twins put together as in many European hotels) and spacious but a bit dark and gloomy. To read in bed I had to take a few floor lamps and move them around to the bedside to be able to see. We faced the street not the courtyard and I believe were on the 3rd or 4th floor - 405 sticks in my head but I'm not sure.

We got no gifts except a sweet on the pillow at night but the beds were beautifully turned down each evening and the linens were of very high quality. This was the nicest part of the room/hotel. Each evening a weather report was left as well. We slept quite well on the 300+ linens and the room was quiet even with the jazz playing. Room service brought an iron within 2 minutes when we requested one.

The bathroom was quite large and very well equipped with Hermes amenities and wonderful large towels that we also enjoyed.

The location was really ideal and we loved this area esp. at night.

Overall, I guess it's hard for me to say if Hotel d'Aubusson is a good value as I've not been elsewhere in Paris in many years - perhaps I'm just really naive. We had a wonderful trip but I just can't rave about this hotel. I think the price just made me think things should be a bit better but maybe that's what you get for the money in Paris. I've stayed at some pretty mediocre places in NYC for a lot of money too...

gruezi,

I was very interested to read your post. We stayed at the HOtel D'Aubusson in July, and loved it. This was our first visit at the hotel after many years of staying around the corner at the Relais Christine. However, rooms and rates at Relais Christine had become a problem for us.

We thought our rooms at Hotel D'Aubusson (Grande Luxe) were much nicer than any rooms we'd stayed in at Relais Christine, incl. the duplex. We did note that both hotels tend to keep their rooms dimly lit, which is probably due to cost cutting more than ambience.

Our room rate incl. the breakfast buffet, and while it wasn't amazing, it was quite adequate.

I think that there are very few hotels in the $400-500 category that knock your socks off anymore. If you consider that top hotels are charging and getting (!!) upwards of $900/night that may be part of the reason. However, we enjoyed our stay at Hotel D'Aubusson, and would definitely stay there again, unless it goes up even more.

<i>I think that there are very few hotels in the $400-500 category that knock your socks off anymore.&lt;i/&gt;

I'm so glad you mentioned that. I thought it was me. I've been feeling that way for quite some time and sort of put it off into the &quot;I'm expecting too much&quot; category. </i>

Weadles,

Thanks for your feedback esp. on Relais Christine which was my other choice. I think you are right about really needing to spend a lot to have your socks knocked off.

I'm glad you confirmed my choice based on the price. I do plan to get back to Paris this year and wondered if I'd try something new or stay there again. Ira always recommends the Bonaparte which is in the neighborhood and costs less...lower expectations, higher satisfaction?

So, my endorsement for the Aubusson - &quot;socks stay on, but Paris itself will knock them off&quot;.

gruezi,

Please post again after your visit. I'd be curious to find out where you decide to stay.

As I said earlier, I think the D'Aubusson is a very good choice in that price category, and the location is hard to beat.

However, I know there are thousands of cheaper accomodations in Paris, the Bonaparte among them. Also Hotel Madison gets very good reviews here on the forum, and is in an excellent location.

On another note, Conde Naste Traveller just featured Paris in its &quot;Word of Mouth&quot; Column. There were a few much cheaper hotels listed, if you'd like to check it out.

Have a wonderful time in Paris ( SIGH)!!