thursdaysd

My niece is getting married in England at the end of August, which is why I am going to Europe again this year. And since I have to travel in summer, which I usually avoid, it seemed like the right time to finally visit Scandinavia. Especially as my elder sister (not the mother of the bride, lol) agreed to share a cabin on a Hurtigruten cruise. I usually get bored on boats, and am not a cruise person, but I am very much looking forward to seeing the Norwegian coast.

I originally thought of starting my trip by revisiting Lviv, Vilnius and/or Riga, but I am flying to Europe in biz class on miles, and they wouldn't take me to any of them. But they would take me to Berlin, which I haven't visited, and about which I keep reading raves. Then a loop south (to Wroclaw, Gorlitz, the countryside, Dresden and Leipzig) was nixed for lack of time.

I'm posting the itinerary I came up with in hopes of input along the lines of "drop a day in A and add it to B so you can see..." or "when you're in C you have to see ..." or "why aren't you going to wonderful D", and especially recommendations for the best areas to stay in, and perhaps actual hotel recommendations, although I would prefer not to spend more than $100/night/person, on average. Also, recommendations for good food that won't break the bank, if that is even possible in Scandinavia.

For those who haven't "met" me before, I'm an older female traveler who likes scenery (preferably mountains and waterfalls), architecture (preferably Art Nouveau and pre-baroque) and prefers "decorative" arts to "fine" arts. No beaches, no nightlife, no driving.

July 10: Fly to Boston (4 nights - cannot believe the hotel costs in Boston!)
July 14: Fly via LHR to Berlin (late flight, really an extra day in Boston)
July 15: Arrive Berlin, bus and train to Potsdam (2 nights)
July 17: Train to Berlin (5 nights)
July 22: Train to Schwerin (2 nights - does anyone know anything about the nearby Freilichtmuseum?)
July 24: Train to Bremen (3 nights, recommended by sister who lived in Germany for a while)
July 27: Train to Lubeck (3 nights - yes, I know Lubeck is between Schwerin and Bremen, but the trains work better this way)
July 30: Train to Copenhagen (4 nights, includes day trip to Roskilde)
Aug 3: Train to Gothenburg (3 nights)
Aug 6: Train to Stockholm (5 nights, includes day trip to the archipelago, possible day trip to Uppsala or Sigtuna or ?)
Aug 11: Fly to Bergen and meet up with sister (2 nights)
Aug 13: Embark on Hurtigruten cruise (6 nights)
Aug 19: Kirkenes (1 night, one of these: http://www.pasvikturist.no/english/k...seeing-by-bus/ )
Aug 20: Fly to Oslo (4 nights - sister's choice, probably Norway in a Nutshell, unless we OD'ed on fjords on the cruise)
Aug 25: Fly to London

Notes: Flights and cruise are booked, trains and hotels not. I would swap Schwerin and its Schloss for Sonderborg in Denmark (although it messes up the trains) if I could verify the reference to Art Nouveau in Fodors' "Scandinavia", preferably with pictures. Also, do people recommend Alesund on my own, or with the Hurtigruten tour? How about skipping the fjord visit and spending the whole day in Alesund?

Thanks!

kja

I can only comment on your plans for Berlin, Copenhagen, and Stockholm -- I think they make sense!

I strongly recommend the Pergamon in Berlin, the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde, and the Wasa and City Hall in Stockholm. You might also find the Nordic Museum in Stockholm of interest. If time is limited, you might consider just a part-day archipelago visit: I went as far as Waxholm, and that choice worked well for me. And leave yourself plenty of time for strolls in lovely Copenhagen and Stockholm!

When I was there -- 1989 -- there were some very tasty food stands along Kungsträdgården in Stockholm.

Should be another great trip!

latedaytraveler

Hi THURSDAYSD,
You said: "

"July 10: Fly to Boston (4 nights - cannot believe the hotel costs in Boston!)"

So you plan to explore Boston during those four days? I live ten miles north so have no occasion to know about hotel prices although I realize that they are high. There are many hotel chains just outside the city that provide shuttle services daily to the nearest subway station. You might also look at the Cambridge/Somerville/Chelsea area hotels which are on the T (our subway system).

I would be interested to know what museums/venues you plan to visit. The Museum of Fine Arts for one, I would expect. Have you been to Boston before? In July your chance of great weather are good. I would be glad to answer any "Boston questions."

gertie3751

Well, you have really thrown me there Thursday. I just don't do cold. That said, I have been to Berlin several times from the 70s to a couple of years ago, stayed in apartments in Charlottenburg, spent about 2 weeks each time. Wonderful city. Why are you staying out in Potsdam for the first night or so? It is a very easy (long) day out from the centre of Berlin. And well worth the trip. Museums to die for, you will get museumed out. And take a boat trip. We 'walked the wall' my last visit, having seen the real thing on previous trips! See the street art on the East Side Gallery. Spy Who Came in from the Cold at the Glienicke Bridge. Parks out in Wahnsee. So many excitements there.

Other than that, I too have only had brief visits to Copenhagen, Stockholm and Oslo years ago. Yes, the Vasa and also there is a lovely area of Stockholm overlooking the harbour with off-beat little cafes with delicious coffee and cake.

Have not and would not take the Hurtigruten cruise. When you are safely returned and do your trip report I will tell you the tale of my friends who did it in the winter a few years ago.

Pity we will miss each other in London again! Have a great trip.

kja

"Well, you have really thrown me there Thursday. I just don't do cold." Of course, one might end up with some VERY hot days in Scandinavia at that time of year!

I agree with gertie about taking a boat along Berlin's Spree river -- very pleasant!

(@ gertie -- hi!)

thursdaysd

Thanks!

<b>kja</b> - the Pergamon is currently being renovated, alas, but I plan to see what I can there, also the other nearby museums. Definitely ship museums in Roskilde, Gothenburg, Stockholm and Oslo, but I was thinking of skipping the Stockholm City Hall - that would be a mistake? I was planning to visit the Nordic Museum (I think that's what the guidebook calls the Nordiska?) along with the Historical Museum.

<b>latedaytraveler</b> - Thanks! I thought a Boston discussion would do better on the US board, so I started a new thread over there: http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...idge-salem.cfm

I now have a pre-paid rate at the Kendall Hotel, just on the Cambridge side of the river, but four nights in Boston is costing more than eight nights in London! (I have used hotel shuttles on rare occasions, and never found them satisfactory.)

Also wondered about a mini-GTG?

<b>gertie</b> - anything to escape a NC summer!

Potsdam: LP recommends an overnight, there certainly seems to be plenty to see (although maybe more baroque/rococo than I usually go for), plus a boat ride, there's a nice-sounding B&B, and I thought it would a more pleasant place than Berlin for recovering from jet lag. Although since I'm flying business and not changing terminals at LHR I'm hoping the flights will be a better experience than last year.

Do you recommend the Charlottenburg area? RS is suggesting staying in the east rather than the west these days.

I do hope that Hurtigruten cruise in August will be a bit different than one in winter... Although I am saving the southbound route for a possible winter trip also involving the Trans-Siberian westbound (having done the Trans Mongolian in autumn). But Central Asia first - doubt that will be cold.

Anything/anyone else?

jrjcolllins

A wonderful hotel to stay at in the East section of Berlin is the Hotel Andels. It's very modern with large rooms and an excellent buffet breakfast included in the price. We stayed there for 8 nights in 2013. It's a five minute walk to the tram that takes you right into the center of Berlin.

In Copenhagen we really enjoyed the Kanal Cafeen Cafe which specializes in open-face sandwiches.

Enjoy your trip, thursdaysd.

gertie3751

Yes, there is plenty to see in Potsdam and it will be relaxing after your long trip. The gardens at Sans Souci are lovely.

I stayed in Charlottenburg because I knew someone there who had an apartment. It's a nice local area with few tourists. I gather Mitte is the trendy place to stay these days. It was a no-go area in the 70s!

You will love the public transport; it is so good that anywhere is easily accessible. Do go to Prenzlauerberg, perfect for watching the Berlin version of Islington Trendies going about their business. That too was a no-no in my past life.

Very long shot re Central Asia/Iran, I am thinking it will be easier for me to base myself in London and do all the organising from there. At least there are embassies I can physically go to!! Your thoughts?

and hi @ kja!!

thursdaysd

Thanks so much jrjcollins! The Expedia rates are actually in my price range. And I'm looking forward to open faced sandwiches - I've had some excellent ones in Budapest and Vienna, will be interested to see how they compare.

thursdaysd

@gertie - I'm deferring serious thought about Central Asia until after this trip, but starting out in London is certainly an interesting idea. It would probably be easier to get an Iranian visa in my UK passport than my US one, as US citizens have to have a tour guide.

I don't know anyone with an apartment in Germany, alas, but I may take a look at AirBnB as well as hotels. Although when I did that for Boston the fee was $25/day! I decided I would rather pay the hotel tax. jrjcollins' hotel suggestion looks promising.

BritishCaicos

"Have not and would not take the Hurtigruten cruise"

Each to their own but I've seen the lot.

Lions, tigers, tiger sharks, desert islands, The Artic circle, bears and ladyboys.

Hurtigruten tops the lot by a long way.

Incredible experience.

I would love to know why a friend's experience should preclude others from using them.

menachem

I did Hurtigruten southbound a couple of years ago. One of the characteristics of Hurtigruten is short but frequent stops along the coast. So yes, you'll OD on gorgeous scenery and Oslo would be great to add a bit of substance to your stay there. So, unwind, visit Vogner park, Bigdøy etc. Oslo has lots of things to offer and is just the thing to recover from the short and intense stretches you'll do on Hurtigruten. If you can, add a day to Bergen.

kja

"the Pergamon is currently being renovated, alas, but I plan to see what I can there..."

Right, the Pergamon Altar won't be accessible, but you should be able to see the awesome Ishtar Gate and Processional Way.

"I was thinking of skipping the Stockholm City Hall - that would be a mistake?

I was glad I saw it and found it quite interesting. YMMV.

"I was planning to visit the Nordic Museum (I think that's what the guidebook calls the Nordiska?)"

Yes, I was referring to the Nordiska Museet. BTW, Waldemarsudde is near there and is a pleasant place for a brief stroll.

thursdaysd

@kja - I'm really looking forward to just wandering around Stockholm, it sounds beautiful.

menachem

It is! Not only the Old Town though. Make sure you visit Saluhallen in Ostermalm and there are a lot of places in Södermalm that are good too. One little fun excursion is to take the ferry to Nacka strand, have lunch at the Marina there, then head back. A little taste of the Archipelago.

thursdaysd

@BritishCaicos and @menachem - since you've done the Hurtigruten cruise, any opinion on my Alesund question? I am a big fan of Art Nouveau, although the eclectic variety rather than the National Romantic style. I was wondering about spending the whole day there, rather than staying with the ship while it visits Geiranger and Hjorundfjord.

BLT83

I stayed at the WakeUp Copenhagen Borgergade last summer and recommend it. I only paid $85 USD a night and the room was clean, modern, and in a very convenient area. The only thing that might bother some people is that the shower was tiny. It didn't bother me, but I thought I'd mention it.

BritishCaicos

Sorry!

We joined the boat in Tromso and left in Trondheim.

We will visit again next February and travel from Tromso to the Lofotens then spend a week in a cottage. The experience in winter is clearly very different in summer and winter. We would always view Norway as a winter destination due to the Aurora, husky sledding and the spectacular winter scenery.

We were in Stockholm last August. I would take the ferry out to Sandholm which if anything gives you an insight into Swedish social culture and their view of wealth. The town is a summer destination for Stockholms rich and famous but there is much of the Swedish understatement on show. Very different to other similar high income coastal retreats in the US.

BritishCaicos

BTW we stayed here

http://www.berns.se/en/

Loved it, very quirky but the lower floor rooms can suffer noise intrusion from the basement nightclub.

The dining room it iconic for Stockholm's 1950s society scene.

BritishCaicos

Better images

http://beautifulhotels.co/wp-content...m-Sweden-5.jpg

http://heminredningsmix.se/wp-conten...8_10486165.jpg