Honeymoon-- Trip Report Part 1 Amalfi Coast
Oct 19th, 2006, 08:57 AM
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Honeymoon-- Trip Report Part 1 Amalfi Coast
We are back- happy and sad! The wedding day was beautiful and each day in Italy we had blue skies, perfect fall weather. We were so lucky. I do not know how to summarize such a trip but will do my best. I want to thank you all for your advice while planning. Of course, I didn't listen to all of it but we made out okay in the end. I didn't really overpack but the suitcase was bit large- good thing we only took one train- more on that later.
Part 1 - Amalfi Coast
Flight from Philadelphia to Rome SMOOTH
Picked up by Massimo and head to Positano
The car ride took about 4 hours but we didn't care...we were starting our honeymoon and we're in ITALY.....As we are getting closer I see why the locals drive slowly...the roads ARE narrow, curvey and STEEP.
Hotel
Villa Rosa
We had done alot of research and were very happy with our choice. The rooms are clean and simple and the staff was warm, friendly and helpful. The terrace is also perfect- this is where breakfast is served- romantic is an understatement- the view is great! I would request a room higher up- for a better view.
Positano- Day 1 Arrive around 1pm
We start to explore the town- I am in love- The narrow cobblestone streets, the shops.....although touristy this was the perfect place to start. First goal, let dh taste gelato- it took three tries to find the right place- not in the same day. Good thing for the walk back UP gives you a good workout. Bucco di Bacco- Kinder and Positano flavors YUMMMMMM While walking I see my first of many cats- yes we are cat lovers. Our first day of exploring was perfect- nothing overwhelming just taking it all in.
Day 2-
Breakfast served on the terrace- Crossiants, cappuccino, juice and NUTELLA....we are in heaven. Day trip to Amalfi and Ravello:
We decide to take the ferry to Amalfi--easy, relaxing ride with great views. We decide to head to Ravello first and then walk around Amalfi later in the day...so we think. We buy SITA bus tickets and head over to the crowd waiting. The 1st bus goes...the 2nd bus goes... Now I can be pushy if need be but come on. This is absurd. After about 40 minutes we say to each other let's take a taxi- I KNOW....expensive but it beats standing doing nothing and hey its our honeymoon. Well the taxi drivers are not like at home. Handsome well dressed and gave us lots of info. We ride up the winding road and arrive in Ravello- AHHHHHHHHH It was worth the taxi- We wonder around and grab a bite to eat and sit on the sidewalk and people watch. Visted Villa Ruffalo and Villa Cimbrone- what amazing views- the colors and the feeling in the air is wonderful- before heading back we bought some limoncello and a wine cork. We arrive back in Amalfi- although crowded I LOVE IT..the DUOMO is overpowering and the streets filled with stores and people its great to just wander. I see two kitties along the way! We grab some gelato but its not that great....oh well next time!
Day 3 Positano
We know Rome is next so we decide on our last day to just do nothing- We wander around, window shop, eat, nap. We wander out in the afternoon for some gelato- Bucco Di Bacco- and decide to have a drink at the window bar- a couple sits down next to us and we all start talking. Before we know it a few hours have passed. It was really enjoyable to sit in the sun and just chat with strangers ---a wonderful afternoon. Head back to the room to relax and decide on dinner.
FOOD on the AMALFI COAST- Where we ate
Dinner -
Chez Black- pizza and caprese salad, 1/2 liter of wine - not terrible but TOURIST trap. Pizza is better in the USA at this point.
Il Ritrovo-
We were very excited from reading about this place on this site. Great experience but soon became a faint memory. The views are not that great- The service was excellent-- especially the little extras- for example we couldn't decide on dessert so she brought us a sample of each- after dinner we were going to buy a bottle of wine to take back to the room- she gave it to us as a gift. Now I am not saying that the food wasn't good- it was but not as spectacular as expected.
Cafe Positano- Loved the location- busy, fun and loud- beautiful restaurant and good views. Food was good- Gnocchi was very good- seafood risotto- pretty good. I have had better at home. All the house wine we've ordered so far has been very good.
Bucco di Bacco- Lunch
Calzone and slice of pizza excellent and as mentioned before their gelato is delicous.
Time to pack and get ready for Part 2 Rome
Part 1 - Amalfi Coast
Flight from Philadelphia to Rome SMOOTH
Picked up by Massimo and head to Positano
The car ride took about 4 hours but we didn't care...we were starting our honeymoon and we're in ITALY.....As we are getting closer I see why the locals drive slowly...the roads ARE narrow, curvey and STEEP.
Hotel
Villa Rosa
We had done alot of research and were very happy with our choice. The rooms are clean and simple and the staff was warm, friendly and helpful. The terrace is also perfect- this is where breakfast is served- romantic is an understatement- the view is great! I would request a room higher up- for a better view.
Positano- Day 1 Arrive around 1pm
We start to explore the town- I am in love- The narrow cobblestone streets, the shops.....although touristy this was the perfect place to start. First goal, let dh taste gelato- it took three tries to find the right place- not in the same day. Good thing for the walk back UP gives you a good workout. Bucco di Bacco- Kinder and Positano flavors YUMMMMMM While walking I see my first of many cats- yes we are cat lovers. Our first day of exploring was perfect- nothing overwhelming just taking it all in.
Day 2-
Breakfast served on the terrace- Crossiants, cappuccino, juice and NUTELLA....we are in heaven. Day trip to Amalfi and Ravello:
We decide to take the ferry to Amalfi--easy, relaxing ride with great views. We decide to head to Ravello first and then walk around Amalfi later in the day...so we think. We buy SITA bus tickets and head over to the crowd waiting. The 1st bus goes...the 2nd bus goes... Now I can be pushy if need be but come on. This is absurd. After about 40 minutes we say to each other let's take a taxi- I KNOW....expensive but it beats standing doing nothing and hey its our honeymoon. Well the taxi drivers are not like at home. Handsome well dressed and gave us lots of info. We ride up the winding road and arrive in Ravello- AHHHHHHHHH It was worth the taxi- We wonder around and grab a bite to eat and sit on the sidewalk and people watch. Visted Villa Ruffalo and Villa Cimbrone- what amazing views- the colors and the feeling in the air is wonderful- before heading back we bought some limoncello and a wine cork. We arrive back in Amalfi- although crowded I LOVE IT..the DUOMO is overpowering and the streets filled with stores and people its great to just wander. I see two kitties along the way! We grab some gelato but its not that great....oh well next time!
Day 3 Positano
We know Rome is next so we decide on our last day to just do nothing- We wander around, window shop, eat, nap. We wander out in the afternoon for some gelato- Bucco Di Bacco- and decide to have a drink at the window bar- a couple sits down next to us and we all start talking. Before we know it a few hours have passed. It was really enjoyable to sit in the sun and just chat with strangers ---a wonderful afternoon. Head back to the room to relax and decide on dinner.
FOOD on the AMALFI COAST- Where we ate
Dinner -
Chez Black- pizza and caprese salad, 1/2 liter of wine - not terrible but TOURIST trap. Pizza is better in the USA at this point.
Il Ritrovo-
We were very excited from reading about this place on this site. Great experience but soon became a faint memory. The views are not that great- The service was excellent-- especially the little extras- for example we couldn't decide on dessert so she brought us a sample of each- after dinner we were going to buy a bottle of wine to take back to the room- she gave it to us as a gift. Now I am not saying that the food wasn't good- it was but not as spectacular as expected.
Cafe Positano- Loved the location- busy, fun and loud- beautiful restaurant and good views. Food was good- Gnocchi was very good- seafood risotto- pretty good. I have had better at home. All the house wine we've ordered so far has been very good.
Bucco di Bacco- Lunch
Calzone and slice of pizza excellent and as mentioned before their gelato is delicous.
Time to pack and get ready for Part 2 Rome
Oct 19th, 2006, 09:15 AM
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Welcome back! Your trip sounds great so far. It seems like only last month when we were there 
We did the exact same thing with the buses to Ravello although we only lasted through one bus stop before we paid the $ for a taxi...Money well spent.
Looking forward to more...
We did the exact same thing with the buses to Ravello although we only lasted through one bus stop before we paid the $ for a taxi...Money well spent.
Looking forward to more...
Oct 19th, 2006, 10:09 AM
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Funny you mentioned the bus from Amalfi to Ravello. It was our worst travel experience ever, anywhere, anytime. After a beautiful 40 minute boat ride from Positano to Amalfi, we too, waited for what we thought was a simple and brief bus ride up to Ravello. 90 minutes later we got on the bus, then another 1/2 hour through traffic up to Ravello. We missed 3 buses, and there was a near riot with people trying to get on. However, Ravello was indeed worth it.
Also, similarly, we were so underwhelmed with Il Ritrovo that it was perhaps our least favorite dinner in 2 weeks of Italy. Mediocre food and worse service
Also, similarly, we were so underwhelmed with Il Ritrovo that it was perhaps our least favorite dinner in 2 weeks of Italy. Mediocre food and worse service
Oct 19th, 2006, 10:23 AM
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Part 2 Rome
Day 4
We have a taxi come to pick us up to head to the Naples train station. Well here is a story we shouldn't tell- We make our way into the train station to purchase tickets- We have 2 roll on 26" a camera bag, backpack and small tote. They all do fit together well so not a big deal. Well we must have had sucker written on our face. An older man who appears to be dressed as an employee is directing people to the correct line. He knows we are his target- we kind of know also but after purchasing tickets he is our "guide" shows us to our platform....valdiates our ticket...we know this isn't normal but are like whatever he wants a tip and really is helping us.....But we are not ready to go down to the pitch dark platform with this person. We want food....allora----DH waits with the bags and he takes me to get food- yes I know..he orders for me in Italian and after I head to leave he tells me TIP...AHHHHAAA....whatever I gave him 5 euro and he walked away happy. He needed it more than I did. So I make my way back dh and the platform now has lights on and we wait. Train arrives about 10 mins late....getting on..okay this is where I get the pack lightly thing. We find seats and our large bags have to go in the corridor. Well of course a woman has 1 small shopping bag stored and will not move it for others to put larger bags where they are supposed to go. Not a huge deal- we line them up with a few others and keep an eye on them. The ride to Rome is smooth and relaxing. Getting off the train much easier and we go to find a taxi.
Side note- this is our first travel day within the trip and we soon learn travel days are stressful no matter what. Good thing we are a good team.
Arrive at B&B on Via Margutta- charming cobblestone side street right near the Spanish Steps.
Charming courtyard- an apartment buidling really-We enter and see 4 or 5 cats wandering around and then we meet Miguel outside and he shows us to the elevator- Miguel turned his great grandfathers flat into a B&B. There are 2 rooms and a beautiful deck. He and wife and baby live in the other areas. He is friendly and warm and shows us to our room. The room is bright and warm with a beautiful small balcony. This is when things start to go a bit down hill but only for short time. He tells us that the couple before us took the key with them to Venice and we won't have a key till the next day, this goes for the safe as well. Okay you need to be buzzed in so we are okay with this- what choice did we have- The person that booked this place for us is a friend of his so I know he can be trusted. Its about 2pm and before heading out I decide to take a shower- FREEZING- the romance is slipping awwy. Then there is the smell. From the water- or the pipes or outside- I don't know where its coming from. We get dressed and head out to explore
We visit the Spanish Steps, all the side streets, all the shopping......everyone is dressed so well and I now become obsessed with finding cute flat shoes. My poor DH- later he said he has never looked at more shoes in his life...and he really doesn't even mind shopping! Love him. We walk towards the Trevi fountain and along w/ the thousands of others throw a coin in and take pictures.....wander towards the Panthenon and then towards Piazza Navona. Then DH sees a sign for Guiness After all the window shopping why not, I have a cappuccino and he has a Guiness. He's so happy and so am I....the side streets are great and the people watching. The day is looking better.
We enjoy our afternoon and into the evening and head back to the room to get settled. We return and ask how to turn the AC on because I am getting bite by mosquitos, we are told that its off for the season. What strike are we at? The room still has this smell, its cold and dreary and I can tell DH is unhappy again I start to cry- I am tired from the travel day and this just isn't the romantic feel we were looking for.We decide that we will call the person that helped us find this place and try to change tomorrow. She tells us she will do her best to try to find us another place but it is Friday so we'll see. She also speaks to her friend /owner.
Day 5 - We have a private tour for the Vatican at 7:30am- we must wake up so early and make our way to meet him. 5:30am HOT shower and no smell. Okay good start. Walk towards the Spanish Steps to catch a taxi and its so early we are able to get a picture of the steps with no one on them. This makes us both excited- great to compare with the photo from the day before. We meet Fabio ---- 2 1/2 hours no lines and we learned much more than if we had gone on our own. Worth the money. Its now about 11am and we find out there are no hotels to switch to but she tells us she spoke to the owner. As it turns out it was just terrible timing. There had been work done on the pipes outside that day which was now finished and truthfully out of their hands. Okay we decide to walk back slowly enjoying the neighborhoods and have lunch. By the time we arrive back at the B&B we need a nap, they have a key...and the smell is gone and things start to turn around. We nap for 3 hours and wake up feeling so much better. Head out to see the Trevi fountain at night and walk around. These sites are so much better to see at night IMO. Beautiful.
Day 6
We wake up to a delicious breakfast on the deck and get ready to head to the Collesseum and Roman Forum, Campo del Fiori and Jewish Ghetto. To be honest we enjoy the neighborhoods and side streets but know this is a place we must go see. We get in line for a tour and go off on our own- We spend about 30 mins walking around- don't get me wrong its unbelievable but again we don't need to spend the entire day. Not for us. We get to Campo Del Fiori and grab some lunch and people watch.....I had a delicious spinach and cheese panini YUM. We wander around a bit more before heading back to the room for a nap.
Dinners in Rome up next
Day 4
We have a taxi come to pick us up to head to the Naples train station. Well here is a story we shouldn't tell- We make our way into the train station to purchase tickets- We have 2 roll on 26" a camera bag, backpack and small tote. They all do fit together well so not a big deal. Well we must have had sucker written on our face. An older man who appears to be dressed as an employee is directing people to the correct line. He knows we are his target- we kind of know also but after purchasing tickets he is our "guide" shows us to our platform....valdiates our ticket...we know this isn't normal but are like whatever he wants a tip and really is helping us.....But we are not ready to go down to the pitch dark platform with this person. We want food....allora----DH waits with the bags and he takes me to get food- yes I know..he orders for me in Italian and after I head to leave he tells me TIP...AHHHHAAA....whatever I gave him 5 euro and he walked away happy. He needed it more than I did. So I make my way back dh and the platform now has lights on and we wait. Train arrives about 10 mins late....getting on..okay this is where I get the pack lightly thing. We find seats and our large bags have to go in the corridor. Well of course a woman has 1 small shopping bag stored and will not move it for others to put larger bags where they are supposed to go. Not a huge deal- we line them up with a few others and keep an eye on them. The ride to Rome is smooth and relaxing. Getting off the train much easier and we go to find a taxi.
Side note- this is our first travel day within the trip and we soon learn travel days are stressful no matter what. Good thing we are a good team.
Arrive at B&B on Via Margutta- charming cobblestone side street right near the Spanish Steps.
Charming courtyard- an apartment buidling really-We enter and see 4 or 5 cats wandering around and then we meet Miguel outside and he shows us to the elevator- Miguel turned his great grandfathers flat into a B&B. There are 2 rooms and a beautiful deck. He and wife and baby live in the other areas. He is friendly and warm and shows us to our room. The room is bright and warm with a beautiful small balcony. This is when things start to go a bit down hill but only for short time. He tells us that the couple before us took the key with them to Venice and we won't have a key till the next day, this goes for the safe as well. Okay you need to be buzzed in so we are okay with this- what choice did we have- The person that booked this place for us is a friend of his so I know he can be trusted. Its about 2pm and before heading out I decide to take a shower- FREEZING- the romance is slipping awwy. Then there is the smell. From the water- or the pipes or outside- I don't know where its coming from. We get dressed and head out to explore
We visit the Spanish Steps, all the side streets, all the shopping......everyone is dressed so well and I now become obsessed with finding cute flat shoes. My poor DH- later he said he has never looked at more shoes in his life...and he really doesn't even mind shopping! Love him. We walk towards the Trevi fountain and along w/ the thousands of others throw a coin in and take pictures.....wander towards the Panthenon and then towards Piazza Navona. Then DH sees a sign for Guiness After all the window shopping why not, I have a cappuccino and he has a Guiness. He's so happy and so am I....the side streets are great and the people watching. The day is looking better.
We enjoy our afternoon and into the evening and head back to the room to get settled. We return and ask how to turn the AC on because I am getting bite by mosquitos, we are told that its off for the season. What strike are we at? The room still has this smell, its cold and dreary and I can tell DH is unhappy again I start to cry- I am tired from the travel day and this just isn't the romantic feel we were looking for.We decide that we will call the person that helped us find this place and try to change tomorrow. She tells us she will do her best to try to find us another place but it is Friday so we'll see. She also speaks to her friend /owner.
Day 5 - We have a private tour for the Vatican at 7:30am- we must wake up so early and make our way to meet him. 5:30am HOT shower and no smell. Okay good start. Walk towards the Spanish Steps to catch a taxi and its so early we are able to get a picture of the steps with no one on them. This makes us both excited- great to compare with the photo from the day before. We meet Fabio ---- 2 1/2 hours no lines and we learned much more than if we had gone on our own. Worth the money. Its now about 11am and we find out there are no hotels to switch to but she tells us she spoke to the owner. As it turns out it was just terrible timing. There had been work done on the pipes outside that day which was now finished and truthfully out of their hands. Okay we decide to walk back slowly enjoying the neighborhoods and have lunch. By the time we arrive back at the B&B we need a nap, they have a key...and the smell is gone and things start to turn around. We nap for 3 hours and wake up feeling so much better. Head out to see the Trevi fountain at night and walk around. These sites are so much better to see at night IMO. Beautiful.
Day 6
We wake up to a delicious breakfast on the deck and get ready to head to the Collesseum and Roman Forum, Campo del Fiori and Jewish Ghetto. To be honest we enjoy the neighborhoods and side streets but know this is a place we must go see. We get in line for a tour and go off on our own- We spend about 30 mins walking around- don't get me wrong its unbelievable but again we don't need to spend the entire day. Not for us. We get to Campo Del Fiori and grab some lunch and people watch.....I had a delicious spinach and cheese panini YUM. We wander around a bit more before heading back to the room for a nap.
Dinners in Rome up next
Oct 19th, 2006, 10:38 AM
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Dinners in Rome
Can anyone tell I don't want to focus on work today!
Piazza Navona- a tourist trap for pizza but we wanted to sit on the square and watch.
Osteria Margutta- WONDERFUL
We sat inside the colors are red, white and blue and remind you of New Orleans with American Jazz playing in the background. Very romantic and just very cool. We ordered seafood risotto and a vodka pistacio risotto to share followed by veal marsala. The seafood risotto was good but DH's was unreal- but so heavy you really could only eat a few bites. I normally do not eat veal but have to say it was very good. For dessert we had a ricotta and chocolate cake and of course 1/2 liter of wine.
Il Matriano
We had been told to go here by a co-worker of DH. This is where the locals eat. We sat inside and were surrounded by local families going out to dinner. Our waiter Stefano was wondeful, told us all about the American music he likes- Duran Duran, Bon Jovi..and that he loves the actor Brad Pitt. We started with Buffalo Mozzerella thinking there would be something else- nope- just two buffalo mozzerella balls on a plate- we were dying.....and yes we ate them and they were delicious..next we shared linguini with mushrooms and truffle oil....followed by a fillet of beef in balsamic ving. All very good...we think the locals were talking about us but we didn't care. It was a great experience.
Next up: Picking up the rental car and getting out of Rome- Who said this was easy???
Can anyone tell I don't want to focus on work today!
Piazza Navona- a tourist trap for pizza but we wanted to sit on the square and watch.
Osteria Margutta- WONDERFUL
We sat inside the colors are red, white and blue and remind you of New Orleans with American Jazz playing in the background. Very romantic and just very cool. We ordered seafood risotto and a vodka pistacio risotto to share followed by veal marsala. The seafood risotto was good but DH's was unreal- but so heavy you really could only eat a few bites. I normally do not eat veal but have to say it was very good. For dessert we had a ricotta and chocolate cake and of course 1/2 liter of wine.
Il Matriano
We had been told to go here by a co-worker of DH. This is where the locals eat. We sat inside and were surrounded by local families going out to dinner. Our waiter Stefano was wondeful, told us all about the American music he likes- Duran Duran, Bon Jovi..and that he loves the actor Brad Pitt. We started with Buffalo Mozzerella thinking there would be something else- nope- just two buffalo mozzerella balls on a plate- we were dying.....and yes we ate them and they were delicious..next we shared linguini with mushrooms and truffle oil....followed by a fillet of beef in balsamic ving. All very good...we think the locals were talking about us but we didn't care. It was a great experience.
Next up: Picking up the rental car and getting out of Rome- Who said this was easy???
Oct 24th, 2006, 06:51 AM
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We pick up the rental car which is very easy and are told its VERY simple to get to the autostrade-----well if you find the correct road going in the right direction. We found the road but it was a one way...going in the opposite direction....after a few circles and a few tense moments we found the signs and were on our way.....We can now laugh a little as driving can always add stress in a foreign city but we are a good team and that helps. At this point my DH was telling me that would have cost us the Amazing Race- Well its a good thing a million dollars was not on the line!!!!
We are heading towards Montalcino but en route are going to spend some time in Montepulciano and Pienza......
Up next the Autogrill----The rest stops at home are not like this!
We are heading towards Montalcino but en route are going to spend some time in Montepulciano and Pienza......
Up next the Autogrill----The rest stops at home are not like this!
Oct 24th, 2006, 12:50 PM
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I am glad you are all enjoying this report- I myself am enjoying all the flashbacks....
Let's see- Oh the Autogrill...so I had been told that they serve espresso in china but I had to see this- I did find ordering a bit stressful--order first--get your ticket and then get in line- its my fault for not learning the language better but we managed. Its definately not like stopping on the NJ or PA Turnpike for a snack! Back on the road- driving is very easy....everyone drives fast and there is very little road rage....I am impressed.
Montepulciano- We arrive and park and start the upward climb...I am smiling ear to ear ---this is what we've been waiting for- the walled cities/hill towns. Its quiet cause its a Sunday so not too crowded but the charm and the landscape is breathtaking, everything I had pictured in my mind. We stopped to taste some wine--at the top we stop to grab a bite to eat- some pizza --nothing to write about..not bad but again not great.
Off to Pienza- The tour buses are here...its crowded but we don't care- we are just taking it all in and the cheese shops ...YUM....this is where it started the amount of cheese we consumed on this trip.....I am a little embarressed to talk about it. After an hour or so we decide to head to the final destination of the day Montalcino.
Montalcino-
I could live here---and I see why many do. We missed the walled city entrance the first time but found it quickly after one loop around- We enter the narrow road and are driving looking for the #2 - We find it and I jump out and ring the bell. I see a lady above me stick her head of the window and yell down at me something in Italian- I soon realize this is NOT our B&B....I wave my hands in apology and jumped back in the car. OPPS....shortly past was the correct address and I go in and meet Lucilla.
Up next Palazzina Cesira and more
Here are some photos from the trip to look at as well. Enjoy.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...1&y=88wy0y
Let's see- Oh the Autogrill...so I had been told that they serve espresso in china but I had to see this- I did find ordering a bit stressful--order first--get your ticket and then get in line- its my fault for not learning the language better but we managed. Its definately not like stopping on the NJ or PA Turnpike for a snack! Back on the road- driving is very easy....everyone drives fast and there is very little road rage....I am impressed.
Montepulciano- We arrive and park and start the upward climb...I am smiling ear to ear ---this is what we've been waiting for- the walled cities/hill towns. Its quiet cause its a Sunday so not too crowded but the charm and the landscape is breathtaking, everything I had pictured in my mind. We stopped to taste some wine--at the top we stop to grab a bite to eat- some pizza --nothing to write about..not bad but again not great.
Off to Pienza- The tour buses are here...its crowded but we don't care- we are just taking it all in and the cheese shops ...YUM....this is where it started the amount of cheese we consumed on this trip.....I am a little embarressed to talk about it. After an hour or so we decide to head to the final destination of the day Montalcino.
Montalcino-
I could live here---and I see why many do. We missed the walled city entrance the first time but found it quickly after one loop around- We enter the narrow road and are driving looking for the #2 - We find it and I jump out and ring the bell. I see a lady above me stick her head of the window and yell down at me something in Italian- I soon realize this is NOT our B&B....I wave my hands in apology and jumped back in the car. OPPS....shortly past was the correct address and I go in and meet Lucilla.
Up next Palazzina Cesira and more
Here are some photos from the trip to look at as well. Enjoy.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...1&y=88wy0y
Oct 24th, 2006, 12:58 PM
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Montalcino
Palazzina Cesira- I am greeted by Lucilla while my DH waits in the car- She is warm and charming, I immediately love her. She shows us where to leave our bags and then directs us up the hill to parking....Very easy. While walking back we are taking our surroundings in - this place is magical. We walk into their beautiful B&B and are showed to a lovely room. She tells us the next night the bigger and "Better" room is available so we say OKAY! The rooms are decorated beautifully so we get settled for a bit. We decide to head out to explore and on our way our meet Robert- equally as enchanting. He draws us a map...is full of information and very knowledgeable about the area. For dinner he recommends Grappolo Blu- more on that later- We wind up chatting with Robert for some time that before you know it its dinner time-
Up Next- breakfast at P.C and a winery tour
Palazzina Cesira- I am greeted by Lucilla while my DH waits in the car- She is warm and charming, I immediately love her. She shows us where to leave our bags and then directs us up the hill to parking....Very easy. While walking back we are taking our surroundings in - this place is magical. We walk into their beautiful B&B and are showed to a lovely room. She tells us the next night the bigger and "Better" room is available so we say OKAY! The rooms are decorated beautifully so we get settled for a bit. We decide to head out to explore and on our way our meet Robert- equally as enchanting. He draws us a map...is full of information and very knowledgeable about the area. For dinner he recommends Grappolo Blu- more on that later- We wind up chatting with Robert for some time that before you know it its dinner time-
Up Next- breakfast at P.C and a winery tour
Oct 24th, 2006, 01:50 PM
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Great pictures! Love the sky in the shot of the Amalfi cathedral, the clouds looks almost patterned. The pic of you and your DH in front of the Trevi is also fantastic! You both look JUST like newlyweds, super happy 
DH and I honeymooned in Italy in 2004 and visited some of the same cities. Reading your report has brought back tons of wonderful memories.
DH and I honeymooned in Italy in 2004 and visited some of the same cities. Reading your report has brought back tons of wonderful memories.
Oct 24th, 2006, 02:57 PM
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I'm enjoying your trip report. I like the Italian kitties everywhere too. They don't seem bothered at all by the traffic, noise and people everywhere. The same with the dogs.
Isn't the bus situation on the Amalfi Coast crazy? We had several buses pass us by too in Positano. They need more buses there or something. The public transportation is always an adventure.
Don't feel bad about getting suckered in by the "official" looking guys at the Naples train station trying to help you buy tickets etc. You are not the only one to get taken in by them, me included. You think they work for the train station and are trying to help you, but that is not the case. They are just trying to scrounge some tips. Oh, well, I guess they are offering a service.
Isn't the bus situation on the Amalfi Coast crazy? We had several buses pass us by too in Positano. They need more buses there or something. The public transportation is always an adventure.
Don't feel bad about getting suckered in by the "official" looking guys at the Naples train station trying to help you buy tickets etc. You are not the only one to get taken in by them, me included. You think they work for the train station and are trying to help you, but that is not the case. They are just trying to scrounge some tips. Oh, well, I guess they are offering a service.
Oct 24th, 2006, 03:14 PM
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Beautiful pictures, honeymoon! And I am really enjoying your trip report.
I was also fascinated by the cats in Rome and dogs in Pompeii. I love your food descriptions - must be close to dinner time!
Please continue . . .
I was also fascinated by the cats in Rome and dogs in Pompeii. I love your food descriptions - must be close to dinner time!
Please continue . . .
Oct 24th, 2006, 05:37 PM
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Montalcino continued....
We wake up the next day to the wonderful smell of breakfast. We choose the American option which meant eggs...not just eggs but an omelet with local cheese cooked in olive oil. After eating crossiants for days in a row we were excited about this breakfast and we were not disappointed. You sit in the dining room with other guests and its a nice time to wake up and chat. DH loved the coffee..not cappuccino just coffee. We have an early appointment at Argiano winery- We get our car and drive along the winding roads to this vineyard- We are there for about an hour and really enjoyed our time learning and tasting our first of many Brunello di Montalcino---soon to be our favorite. Next we stop to visit The Abbey at Sant Antimo- We go in as monks are about to sing- The sound is angelic. On our way back we stop for lunch in Sant Angelo of Colle- We ordered a tomato salad where I learned this meant a bowl of tomatos and DH ordered pinci with tomato and basil but got pinci with mystery meat sauce- Although we'll never know what this was---it tasted good! Its now around 2 and we decide its time to head back to Montalcino to enjoy this wonderful town. We wander around---check our email---DH really needed to know the highlights from the Eagles game...I can't believe I am admitting this! We head to the fortress and well...taste more wine...we sat for a bit and enjoyed the wonderful enoteca at the fortress-around sunset we went up top for some great photos. We leave for Montebenichi tomorrow and now wish we had one more day here----we will be back to visit.
Up next Dinner in Montalcino
We wake up the next day to the wonderful smell of breakfast. We choose the American option which meant eggs...not just eggs but an omelet with local cheese cooked in olive oil. After eating crossiants for days in a row we were excited about this breakfast and we were not disappointed. You sit in the dining room with other guests and its a nice time to wake up and chat. DH loved the coffee..not cappuccino just coffee. We have an early appointment at Argiano winery- We get our car and drive along the winding roads to this vineyard- We are there for about an hour and really enjoyed our time learning and tasting our first of many Brunello di Montalcino---soon to be our favorite. Next we stop to visit The Abbey at Sant Antimo- We go in as monks are about to sing- The sound is angelic. On our way back we stop for lunch in Sant Angelo of Colle- We ordered a tomato salad where I learned this meant a bowl of tomatos and DH ordered pinci with tomato and basil but got pinci with mystery meat sauce- Although we'll never know what this was---it tasted good! Its now around 2 and we decide its time to head back to Montalcino to enjoy this wonderful town. We wander around---check our email---DH really needed to know the highlights from the Eagles game...I can't believe I am admitting this! We head to the fortress and well...taste more wine...we sat for a bit and enjoyed the wonderful enoteca at the fortress-around sunset we went up top for some great photos. We leave for Montebenichi tomorrow and now wish we had one more day here----we will be back to visit.
Up next Dinner in Montalcino
Oct 24th, 2006, 05:51 PM
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Dinner in Montalcino-
Grappolo Blu- Excellent
We start with a 1/2 bottle of Brunello di Montalcino and a tuscan appetizer- crostini's with cheese and honey- YUM, liver pate, and another with pesto. We have been sharing to this point but we decide to both get a pasta - Pinci with tomato and basil and pinci with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil. YUM YUM.... The we are feeling daring - we share Wild Boar---and I have to say ---it was good. It tasted similar to my mom's brisket ( which is delicious) and pork roast. We were pleased. We are now on our second bottle of wine! And its time for dessert- hot chocolate cake with chocolate in the middle...We are hoping the hours of walking and the hills will off set all we are eating!!!!
Dinner the second night was also recommended by Robert at P.C
Re Di Macchia- another Excellent choice
They have a tasting menu for dinner and wine
Dinner 4 courses 20 euro and matching wines 15 euro. This turned out to be an amazing meal but way too much food especially since I am full after an appetizer. We start with a tuscan appetizer- crostini's with what I think is tuna ( turned out to be veal), liver, cheese and honey paired with a light white wine, followed by a porcini mushroom lasagna paired with a chianti. There is more- Filet of beef in a brunello wine sauce paired with a Brunello di Montalcino--- the food is wonderful as is the atmosphere and service however a word to the wise SHARE! I have not forgetten dessert- chef's choice- tiramisu and a lemon custard paired with a bubbly dessert wine. We chatted all night with a lovely couple from NH.
Before heading to Montebenichi I have wonderful things to say about our time in Montalcino but I do want to be honest- the only negative regarding the B&B was- the beds were horrible..cement... otherwise if one can overlook this small negative this is a place we will return.
Montebenichi and the Castelletto-
Grappolo Blu- Excellent
We start with a 1/2 bottle of Brunello di Montalcino and a tuscan appetizer- crostini's with cheese and honey- YUM, liver pate, and another with pesto. We have been sharing to this point but we decide to both get a pasta - Pinci with tomato and basil and pinci with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil. YUM YUM.... The we are feeling daring - we share Wild Boar---and I have to say ---it was good. It tasted similar to my mom's brisket ( which is delicious) and pork roast. We were pleased. We are now on our second bottle of wine! And its time for dessert- hot chocolate cake with chocolate in the middle...We are hoping the hours of walking and the hills will off set all we are eating!!!!
Dinner the second night was also recommended by Robert at P.C
Re Di Macchia- another Excellent choice
They have a tasting menu for dinner and wine
Dinner 4 courses 20 euro and matching wines 15 euro. This turned out to be an amazing meal but way too much food especially since I am full after an appetizer. We start with a tuscan appetizer- crostini's with what I think is tuna ( turned out to be veal), liver, cheese and honey paired with a light white wine, followed by a porcini mushroom lasagna paired with a chianti. There is more- Filet of beef in a brunello wine sauce paired with a Brunello di Montalcino--- the food is wonderful as is the atmosphere and service however a word to the wise SHARE! I have not forgetten dessert- chef's choice- tiramisu and a lemon custard paired with a bubbly dessert wine. We chatted all night with a lovely couple from NH.
Before heading to Montebenichi I have wonderful things to say about our time in Montalcino but I do want to be honest- the only negative regarding the B&B was- the beds were horrible..cement... otherwise if one can overlook this small negative this is a place we will return.
Montebenichi and the Castelletto-
Oct 25th, 2006, 04:32 AM
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Part of me thinks I should report this with a complete title, but not sure really how to go about that w/o confusion.
Anyway, We pack up the car and drive 1 hour to Montebenichi a VERY small hamlet towards the Chianti regions.
We were told many things about this castle and these accomodations were going to be the highlight and most luxurious of the trip. We find the winding road leading the castle and we arrive at the hamlet where approximately 50 people live in this town---I find this VERY hard to believe ---its VERY small. The castle is charming and decorated with antiques from the owners private collection, you definately feel you are step above in this place. The grounds are well taken care of and beautiful and the view is breathtaking and relaxing. Our first afternoon we relax by the pool. There is 1 restuarant which happens to be closed our first night. You MUST have a car here or a driver so on recommendation we make reservation for a trattoria about 15 mins away. We wanted something light after the dinner the night before at Re Di Macchia.
Up next- The best pizza EVER and more on Montebenichi and the Castelletto.
Anyway, We pack up the car and drive 1 hour to Montebenichi a VERY small hamlet towards the Chianti regions.
We were told many things about this castle and these accomodations were going to be the highlight and most luxurious of the trip. We find the winding road leading the castle and we arrive at the hamlet where approximately 50 people live in this town---I find this VERY hard to believe ---its VERY small. The castle is charming and decorated with antiques from the owners private collection, you definately feel you are step above in this place. The grounds are well taken care of and beautiful and the view is breathtaking and relaxing. Our first afternoon we relax by the pool. There is 1 restuarant which happens to be closed our first night. You MUST have a car here or a driver so on recommendation we make reservation for a trattoria about 15 mins away. We wanted something light after the dinner the night before at Re Di Macchia.
Up next- The best pizza EVER and more on Montebenichi and the Castelletto.
