Trip Report from November 2009 Trip To Sicily
Jan 17th, 2010, 04:19 PM
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Trip Report from November 2009 Trip To Sicily
Out of gratitude to the many Fodorites who provided assistance before we went to Sicily, we provide this report from our family trip. The following is a “just the facts” report (i.e. just like Joe Friday on Dragnet).
Flights:
We flew direct from Philadelphia to Rome on US Air and then booked, through Travelocity, flights via local carriers to Sicily. The “in” trip was to Catania via Meridiana. The “out” trip (back to Rome) was via Blue Panorama. I was nervous about both carriers after some not-so-complimentary reports from other travelers, but both airlines were seamless. Indeed, Meridina graciously accommodated me after a bone-headed error on my part. I booked my flight from Rome to Sicily for 11/17, which was the day I left Philly (our Rome arrival was on 11/18). I readily admitted my error in an email to the carrier and they changed my ticket without charge (the penalty would have been $60 per ticket – times 3 for me, my husband, and my daughter). Blue Panorama did not have to perform gymnastics on my behalf, but the airline was, like Meridiana, on-time, well run, courteous, and seamless.
Accommodations, Eats, and Amusements
November 18 and 19:
Orgitia Island/Siracusa
Inn: Ortigia Island at Palazzo Del Sale, Via Sanata Teresa 25 96100 Siracusa http://www.palazzodelsale.com/
The inn is tucked away in Ortigia Island in an old townhouse not far from the Piazzo del Duomo. The rooms are gorgeous and all have their own bathroom. The rates are astonishingly reasonable given the quality of the inn (374 Euro for two nights for 2 adults and a child). The young couple who watch over the place (Luisa and Giovanni) are warm and friendly. A wonderful breakfast is included with the room. Although they serve from 8:30 to 10 a.m., they left the breakfast (a spread of wonderful cakes, fruits, yogurt and cereal) set up for us until we woke up at 11 (we were jet lagged). Luisa took the time to make cappuccino for my husband and me and hot chocolate for our daughter. Ortigia Island is just across a short bridge from Siracusa and the place to stay. It is very quaint.
Memorable restaurant: Red Moon, which is down by the water in Siracusa (at Porto Piccolo) on Sbarcadero S. Lucia. (We learned from our cab driver that there is another restaurant by this name elsewhere, so beware.) The fish is just-caught. No one speaks English but you don’t need words to communicate fresh food. The evening we were there, Arab or African men played drums and sang (rather drunkenly) in boats docked at the Port. Very scenic.
Memorable shop: Helene Moreu, a French émigré to Sicily who hand paints beautiful silk scarves which can be worn or framed.
After 2 days in Ortigia, we took the train from Siracusa to Modica. Trenitalia. No need to book ahead (as GAC rightly has said, no-rental-car travel is the way to go as driving in Sicily is not a recipe for relaxation). Fare was 24.80 Euro for 2 (children are free).
Modica (November 20):
Inn: Palazzo Il Cavaliere, 250 Corso Umberto 947219 tel 011 39 0132 754 704. http://www.palazzoilcavaliere.it/
Another wonderful find, it is in a beautiful old residence in the center of Modica. We arrived by train to find that there was no cab stand (and when we called the innkeeper, she got her English-speaking daughter to take our call and explain to us that cabs have to come from Ragusa when needed – some 20 miles away!). Sara, the daughter, got a friend who owned a car to drive her to pick us up and take us to the inn. Sicilians treat guests like family. Again, the rates were very reasonable (148.98 Euro for 3 people for the night), the rooms were beautiful, and breakfast was included (not as wonderful a breakfast in Ortigia, but good). The innkeeper drove us to the bus station the next day because he was very gracious (he is Sicilian, after all), but you could walk to it.
Memorable food: Lunch at Osteria Dei Sapori, Corso Umberto. They had authentic Ragusan food, which focuses on classics: red sauce with cavatelli followed by meats that were cooked in the red sauce (a symbiotic relationship with wonderful results). Dinner at Pizzeria Risorante La Pearla, Via Giardina, 4, Modica Centro Storico. Simply prepared pizza with crust like thin chewy bread and crushed tomato for sauce. Reasonably priced.
Not to miss: Handmade chocolates from the premier chocolatier in Sicily (what Modica is famous for): Antica Dolceria Bonaju. The shop is right on Corso Umberto (same side of the street as the inn).
Ragusa Ibla (November 21 and 22)
Inn: Locanda Don Serafino, Viua XI Febbraio 15 www.locandadonserafino.it
This was the very nicest place we stayed. The main part of the inn is located in the former stable of an 18th century mansion. We stayed in one of the rooms that is located in an apartment (one of several that were purchased to expand the property), and it was an amazing place – honey colored wood trussed ceilings with beautiful furnishings and lots of light. We heard that some people find the main part of the inn to be somewhat confining, given that it is an old stone stable and thus there are no windows in some rooms. 537 Euro for two nights, which was more expensive than out other accommodations but far superior to any inn you might find for this price in the U.S. The inn is located not far from Duomo St Girogio and the Piazza that surrounds it – a lovely area that has been restored to breathtaking beauty in the past 15 years. A hit Italian detective t.v. series is filmed in Ragusa Ibla so it has become a very “hot” place.
The inn has two associated restaurants – the Michelain star restaurant in the main hotel (expensive) and a more casual restaurant called Locandina where we ate. The food was great and also the restaurant was welcoming to children (my daughter gasped “amazing” when asked how her pizza was; we are a very picky pizza family).
Memorable food: Il Duomo: A Michelain star restaurant (one of two, Locando Don Serafino being the other) in Ragusa Ibla. Food and wine pairings were inspired, but be aware that if you tell the waiter that “yes,” you do like raw fish that will become the main part of your meal unless you tell them only “some” raw fish. (I am a crudo/sushi dabbler, so my husband’s endorsement of raw fish resulted in a meal that was expensive – deservedly so (487 Euro) – but overwhelming for me.) Having said that, they were very kind to make pasta pomodoro for my daughter.
Locandina Restaurant: See above description with the hotel. Just a delightful place.
Next stop: Parlemo.
We took a bus from Ragusa to Palermo (only 2.20 Euro per adult – kids free). The ride was about 3 hours. Fascinating terrain getting there. Wind turbines dot the mountains part of the way. Citrus groves abound.
Palermo (11/23 to 11/25)
Hotel: Ucciardhome Hotel (638.76 Euro for 3 nights, breakfast included). The hotel is modern and sleek. The staff is incredibly helpful (and got us a special cab rate to the airport – I believe that they are government owned, although without a hint of civil-servant snideness). The location is hysterical. I knew it was near Uciarrdone Prison (the maximum security “residence” for the most notorious Mafiosi and whose name the hotel “rifs”on) but did not know it was smack dab across the street from the prison. The hotel is off the beaten path, not entirely but somewhat, so if you don’t want to walk to the main center of the shopping area (but instead want to walk out and be in it) you probably should choose another hotel.
Memorable food: Cin Cin, which is a traditional Palermo cusine restaurant. We chose lovely items on the menu. When my daughter did not find anything that she liked, the son of the owner who was our waiter brought her a special meal which turned out to be what the family was eating that night.
Cucina Papoff, also traditional Sicilian fare despite its Bulgarian sounding name. It is a great place as well.
Not to miss: L’Opera dei Pupi di Palermo, which is the finest marionette establishment anywhere. The family that preserves this tradition (the Cuticchios) have a passion for the art and travel the world to share their craft. We were lucky enough to meet them personally, and they were delightful. The show we saw- the story of Rolando – was amazing. Marionettes cut each other – actually the Arabs - down the middle and in half. A bit frightening for some 2 year olds who attended but just an incredible feat (and the true story of the crusades).
Food not to miss: Arrancini di riso – anywhere in Sicily. The secret to making it is Riso Roma (Arborrio is not good, pronounced a purveyor of arrancini, and he is right as anyone who has tried to work with arborrio can attest).
Comment on Palermo: It is a really chaotic place. We stayed 3 nights but 2 would have been better for us (another night in Rome would have been preferable to flying to Rome on a Thursday and flying back to the U.S. on Friday).
Rome
Last Stop Rome (11/26, Thanksgiving Day. After flying into Rome, we took the bus to Rome. Long ride (nearly an hour and a half) but only because of protests in the street (lots of protests in Italy these days). When we arrived at the main terminal in Rome, we decided to take the subway to our hotel area because (1) when we asked a cab driver how much a cab ride would cost he said 80 Euro!! (it was all of 2 miles away, which teaches you that you should always ask); and (2) the bus driver advised us that our hotel was directly near the second subway stop on a particular route (he kindly gave us directions). But beware; the walk from the main floor of the terminal to the subway has many many halls and stairways. Our nine year old found her sea legs and was able to haul her carry on bag along but disabled travelers or less able bodied ones will have difficulty.
Hotel: Hotel Aleph Boscolo. Absolutely beautiful, modern, chic cosmopolitan hotel that nonetheless makes everyone feel welcome (even if they are not fashion-model material). The rooms are sleek and sophisticated. We were lucky to be upgraded to a suite because the triple we had booked was unavailable, which obviously makes the experience superior. Location is fine. Near the subway and walkable to the attractions one wants to see in Rome. 119.53 Euro for the night, which was great.
Memorable meal: Ristorante Tullio, Via San Nicolo da Tolention. We ate our Thanksgiving lunch here at the recommendation of the hotel. Impeccable and simple Roman food served by a professional wait staff who were also polite and gracious (not snooty). Wine list was wonderful. The lunch crowd is diplomats and government officials. A fitting end to a delightful experience.
Flights:
We flew direct from Philadelphia to Rome on US Air and then booked, through Travelocity, flights via local carriers to Sicily. The “in” trip was to Catania via Meridiana. The “out” trip (back to Rome) was via Blue Panorama. I was nervous about both carriers after some not-so-complimentary reports from other travelers, but both airlines were seamless. Indeed, Meridina graciously accommodated me after a bone-headed error on my part. I booked my flight from Rome to Sicily for 11/17, which was the day I left Philly (our Rome arrival was on 11/18). I readily admitted my error in an email to the carrier and they changed my ticket without charge (the penalty would have been $60 per ticket – times 3 for me, my husband, and my daughter). Blue Panorama did not have to perform gymnastics on my behalf, but the airline was, like Meridiana, on-time, well run, courteous, and seamless.
Accommodations, Eats, and Amusements
November 18 and 19:
Orgitia Island/Siracusa
Inn: Ortigia Island at Palazzo Del Sale, Via Sanata Teresa 25 96100 Siracusa http://www.palazzodelsale.com/
The inn is tucked away in Ortigia Island in an old townhouse not far from the Piazzo del Duomo. The rooms are gorgeous and all have their own bathroom. The rates are astonishingly reasonable given the quality of the inn (374 Euro for two nights for 2 adults and a child). The young couple who watch over the place (Luisa and Giovanni) are warm and friendly. A wonderful breakfast is included with the room. Although they serve from 8:30 to 10 a.m., they left the breakfast (a spread of wonderful cakes, fruits, yogurt and cereal) set up for us until we woke up at 11 (we were jet lagged). Luisa took the time to make cappuccino for my husband and me and hot chocolate for our daughter. Ortigia Island is just across a short bridge from Siracusa and the place to stay. It is very quaint.
Memorable restaurant: Red Moon, which is down by the water in Siracusa (at Porto Piccolo) on Sbarcadero S. Lucia. (We learned from our cab driver that there is another restaurant by this name elsewhere, so beware.) The fish is just-caught. No one speaks English but you don’t need words to communicate fresh food. The evening we were there, Arab or African men played drums and sang (rather drunkenly) in boats docked at the Port. Very scenic.
Memorable shop: Helene Moreu, a French émigré to Sicily who hand paints beautiful silk scarves which can be worn or framed.
After 2 days in Ortigia, we took the train from Siracusa to Modica. Trenitalia. No need to book ahead (as GAC rightly has said, no-rental-car travel is the way to go as driving in Sicily is not a recipe for relaxation). Fare was 24.80 Euro for 2 (children are free).
Modica (November 20):
Inn: Palazzo Il Cavaliere, 250 Corso Umberto 947219 tel 011 39 0132 754 704. http://www.palazzoilcavaliere.it/
Another wonderful find, it is in a beautiful old residence in the center of Modica. We arrived by train to find that there was no cab stand (and when we called the innkeeper, she got her English-speaking daughter to take our call and explain to us that cabs have to come from Ragusa when needed – some 20 miles away!). Sara, the daughter, got a friend who owned a car to drive her to pick us up and take us to the inn. Sicilians treat guests like family. Again, the rates were very reasonable (148.98 Euro for 3 people for the night), the rooms were beautiful, and breakfast was included (not as wonderful a breakfast in Ortigia, but good). The innkeeper drove us to the bus station the next day because he was very gracious (he is Sicilian, after all), but you could walk to it.
Memorable food: Lunch at Osteria Dei Sapori, Corso Umberto. They had authentic Ragusan food, which focuses on classics: red sauce with cavatelli followed by meats that were cooked in the red sauce (a symbiotic relationship with wonderful results). Dinner at Pizzeria Risorante La Pearla, Via Giardina, 4, Modica Centro Storico. Simply prepared pizza with crust like thin chewy bread and crushed tomato for sauce. Reasonably priced.
Not to miss: Handmade chocolates from the premier chocolatier in Sicily (what Modica is famous for): Antica Dolceria Bonaju. The shop is right on Corso Umberto (same side of the street as the inn).
Ragusa Ibla (November 21 and 22)
Inn: Locanda Don Serafino, Viua XI Febbraio 15 www.locandadonserafino.it
This was the very nicest place we stayed. The main part of the inn is located in the former stable of an 18th century mansion. We stayed in one of the rooms that is located in an apartment (one of several that were purchased to expand the property), and it was an amazing place – honey colored wood trussed ceilings with beautiful furnishings and lots of light. We heard that some people find the main part of the inn to be somewhat confining, given that it is an old stone stable and thus there are no windows in some rooms. 537 Euro for two nights, which was more expensive than out other accommodations but far superior to any inn you might find for this price in the U.S. The inn is located not far from Duomo St Girogio and the Piazza that surrounds it – a lovely area that has been restored to breathtaking beauty in the past 15 years. A hit Italian detective t.v. series is filmed in Ragusa Ibla so it has become a very “hot” place.
The inn has two associated restaurants – the Michelain star restaurant in the main hotel (expensive) and a more casual restaurant called Locandina where we ate. The food was great and also the restaurant was welcoming to children (my daughter gasped “amazing” when asked how her pizza was; we are a very picky pizza family).
Memorable food: Il Duomo: A Michelain star restaurant (one of two, Locando Don Serafino being the other) in Ragusa Ibla. Food and wine pairings were inspired, but be aware that if you tell the waiter that “yes,” you do like raw fish that will become the main part of your meal unless you tell them only “some” raw fish. (I am a crudo/sushi dabbler, so my husband’s endorsement of raw fish resulted in a meal that was expensive – deservedly so (487 Euro) – but overwhelming for me.) Having said that, they were very kind to make pasta pomodoro for my daughter.
Locandina Restaurant: See above description with the hotel. Just a delightful place.
Next stop: Parlemo.
We took a bus from Ragusa to Palermo (only 2.20 Euro per adult – kids free). The ride was about 3 hours. Fascinating terrain getting there. Wind turbines dot the mountains part of the way. Citrus groves abound.
Palermo (11/23 to 11/25)
Hotel: Ucciardhome Hotel (638.76 Euro for 3 nights, breakfast included). The hotel is modern and sleek. The staff is incredibly helpful (and got us a special cab rate to the airport – I believe that they are government owned, although without a hint of civil-servant snideness). The location is hysterical. I knew it was near Uciarrdone Prison (the maximum security “residence” for the most notorious Mafiosi and whose name the hotel “rifs”on) but did not know it was smack dab across the street from the prison. The hotel is off the beaten path, not entirely but somewhat, so if you don’t want to walk to the main center of the shopping area (but instead want to walk out and be in it) you probably should choose another hotel.
Memorable food: Cin Cin, which is a traditional Palermo cusine restaurant. We chose lovely items on the menu. When my daughter did not find anything that she liked, the son of the owner who was our waiter brought her a special meal which turned out to be what the family was eating that night.
Cucina Papoff, also traditional Sicilian fare despite its Bulgarian sounding name. It is a great place as well.
Not to miss: L’Opera dei Pupi di Palermo, which is the finest marionette establishment anywhere. The family that preserves this tradition (the Cuticchios) have a passion for the art and travel the world to share their craft. We were lucky enough to meet them personally, and they were delightful. The show we saw- the story of Rolando – was amazing. Marionettes cut each other – actually the Arabs - down the middle and in half. A bit frightening for some 2 year olds who attended but just an incredible feat (and the true story of the crusades).
Food not to miss: Arrancini di riso – anywhere in Sicily. The secret to making it is Riso Roma (Arborrio is not good, pronounced a purveyor of arrancini, and he is right as anyone who has tried to work with arborrio can attest).
Comment on Palermo: It is a really chaotic place. We stayed 3 nights but 2 would have been better for us (another night in Rome would have been preferable to flying to Rome on a Thursday and flying back to the U.S. on Friday).
Rome
Last Stop Rome (11/26, Thanksgiving Day. After flying into Rome, we took the bus to Rome. Long ride (nearly an hour and a half) but only because of protests in the street (lots of protests in Italy these days). When we arrived at the main terminal in Rome, we decided to take the subway to our hotel area because (1) when we asked a cab driver how much a cab ride would cost he said 80 Euro!! (it was all of 2 miles away, which teaches you that you should always ask); and (2) the bus driver advised us that our hotel was directly near the second subway stop on a particular route (he kindly gave us directions). But beware; the walk from the main floor of the terminal to the subway has many many halls and stairways. Our nine year old found her sea legs and was able to haul her carry on bag along but disabled travelers or less able bodied ones will have difficulty.
Hotel: Hotel Aleph Boscolo. Absolutely beautiful, modern, chic cosmopolitan hotel that nonetheless makes everyone feel welcome (even if they are not fashion-model material). The rooms are sleek and sophisticated. We were lucky to be upgraded to a suite because the triple we had booked was unavailable, which obviously makes the experience superior. Location is fine. Near the subway and walkable to the attractions one wants to see in Rome. 119.53 Euro for the night, which was great.
Memorable meal: Ristorante Tullio, Via San Nicolo da Tolention. We ate our Thanksgiving lunch here at the recommendation of the hotel. Impeccable and simple Roman food served by a professional wait staff who were also polite and gracious (not snooty). Wine list was wonderful. The lunch crowd is diplomats and government officials. A fitting end to a delightful experience.
Jan 18th, 2010, 05:17 PM
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LizTD - thanks for a charming report on Sicily: succinct and full of info. Your accommodations sound wonderful. It is a trip I would happily mimic, including the restaurants.
We stayed at the Daphne Inn on via de San Basilio, which I THINK is on the same street as the Aleph Boscolo, and I am surprised at the price you paid!! I would have thought it would be much more. Was it a special?
We stayed at the Daphne Inn on via de San Basilio, which I THINK is on the same street as the Aleph Boscolo, and I am surprised at the price you paid!! I would have thought it would be much more. Was it a special?
Jan 19th, 2010, 12:30 AM
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Hi LizTD
Very pleased to hear that you enjoyed your trip. I apologise for sounding a little dark about our experiences prior to your departure and I know this gave you cause for concern at the time.
Retrospectively, I am sure that had we adopted your logistics we would have had a far different experience. However, that's just not in our make-up and we usually end up driving for miles and trying to dig deep into landscapes. For us the driving was an issue all the time and it had a hugely detrimental effect on our trip. We also ended up drving into too many situations which were far from desirable for time pressured visitors.
I am glad that you discovered an L’Opera dei Pupi, we visited the one in Ortigia. They are an example of one of my father's most favourite pieces of wisdow - "what ever you do in life, make sure it is the highest quality possible even if you sweep the streets". The L'Opera may not be La Scala but in their form they are unparalleled.
Sicily with all its huge contracts and contradictions will always be our travel enigma! Never visited a place like it.
Very pleased to hear that you enjoyed your trip. I apologise for sounding a little dark about our experiences prior to your departure and I know this gave you cause for concern at the time.
Retrospectively, I am sure that had we adopted your logistics we would have had a far different experience. However, that's just not in our make-up and we usually end up driving for miles and trying to dig deep into landscapes. For us the driving was an issue all the time and it had a hugely detrimental effect on our trip. We also ended up drving into too many situations which were far from desirable for time pressured visitors.
I am glad that you discovered an L’Opera dei Pupi, we visited the one in Ortigia. They are an example of one of my father's most favourite pieces of wisdow - "what ever you do in life, make sure it is the highest quality possible even if you sweep the streets". The L'Opera may not be La Scala but in their form they are unparalleled.
Sicily with all its huge contracts and contradictions will always be our travel enigma! Never visited a place like it.
Nov 17th, 2011, 06:08 PM
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Love to hear how others have enjoyed Sicily. I believe it to be one of the prime spots of Italy. In summer 2011 we visited Italy again, with 5 days devoted to the food epicenter, Bologna. We loved the amazing lazer beam focus on cuisine and ingredients. We splurged on a cooking lesson with a phenom named Carmelita (google her name, bolgna, and cooking classes and you will find her). She said that in her estimation, Sicilian food is superior to all of Italy. While Bologna and all of Italy was marvelous, Sicily remains in a class by itself. Carmelita was right. But, if you love food, do detour to Bologna. If you are able, take time for a cooking lesson. And, whatever you do, take the Italian Food Days Tour. You will never regret the money spent on that!!
