The Best/Highlights of Two Weeks in Paris and The Dordogne
May 16th, 2011, 04:09 AM
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The Best/Highlights of Two Weeks in Paris and The Dordogne
We recently returned from a VERY successful 2 week trip to Paris and the Dordogne region in France. Since there has been an abundance written up about Paris and even quite a bit about the Dordogne region, I shall not bore with our entire two week trip but only pinpoint the highlights, the "bests", and maybe some of the "not so good...s".
This was both a 60th birthday present vacation and a trip back to Paris after having been there only once 11 years ago and NOT having a good time at all. As a matter of fact, we then decided we would not return and actually did not...... until now. And was it ever a breath of fresh air this time around !! A complete turnaround from what we remembered.
OUR HOTEL IN PARIS
I decided to splurge on our hotel and chose Le Petit Paris which is at 214 rue St. Jacques in the 5th. It is a small 20 room new boutique hotel (with prices, but also everything else, to match!!). As I had read that rooms are very very small I chose to upragde to a superior room which afforded us a bit more room but it was tight. Certainly there was not enough room to put away clothes for our 6 night stay and in the bathroom there was little room for toiletries as well. But aside from that this was a perfect hotel. It was spotless, the beds were about THE most comfortable we had ever experienced, sheets, towels, toiletries (L'Occitance!) were of the highly quality and comfort. Staff were outstanding, going out of their way to make sure everything was JUST right. Breakfast, although at an extra price (but included in our room price because when I reserved they were still offering their breakfast free to those who stayed more than 5 nights) was ample, delicious and served in their small beautiful breakfast nook which also led to an outdoor small terrace. When we were there the hotel was full but we never were disturbed by any noises whatsoever. Walking distance to the Pantheon, Luxembourg Gardens and Notre Dame, very well located. Very highly recommended.
OUR B&B IN SARLAT in the DORDOGNE
Here I chose the Les Cordeliers which gets the #1 spot on tripadvisor. I had mixed feelings about this B&B. On the whole, it gets good marks, such as being clean, having SUPER large rooms, in a good spot in the town, and having a good breakfast, albeit also not included and charges of 6 Euros each per day. What I did not appreciate was the proprietor's reaction to several "problems" we had. This is often what "makes or breaks" a place, at least in my opinion. And these issues were not completely well taken care of. Along with that, I believe that there would have been possible better options at better prices elsewhere.
RESTAURANTS
We did not have terrific eating experiences in Paris, but ate like kings in the Dordogne. To be fair, we also did not search out anything special or high-end in Paris, and just made do with whatever small places we came across that looked OK and had decent prices. Our one "splurge" was Les Papilles right across the corner from our hotel, which had come highly recommended by many. Indeed it was lovely, the service was excellent, the food (which is a totally 100% set menu and you cannot change anything at all) was interesting, different and tasty; we enjoyed it.
In Sarlat, we ate at Le Grand Bleu which is a one-star Michelin restaurant and it was fabulous and we highly recommend it. The price was not even exorbitantly expensive. We tried to get reservations for dinner but they were all booked so we "made do" with lunch and ordered from the 33 Euros menu and enjoyed it very very much. We also had a dinner at Bistro L'Octroi which was also very nice and good, not great but good.
To be continued........
This was both a 60th birthday present vacation and a trip back to Paris after having been there only once 11 years ago and NOT having a good time at all. As a matter of fact, we then decided we would not return and actually did not...... until now. And was it ever a breath of fresh air this time around !! A complete turnaround from what we remembered.
OUR HOTEL IN PARIS
I decided to splurge on our hotel and chose Le Petit Paris which is at 214 rue St. Jacques in the 5th. It is a small 20 room new boutique hotel (with prices, but also everything else, to match!!). As I had read that rooms are very very small I chose to upragde to a superior room which afforded us a bit more room but it was tight. Certainly there was not enough room to put away clothes for our 6 night stay and in the bathroom there was little room for toiletries as well. But aside from that this was a perfect hotel. It was spotless, the beds were about THE most comfortable we had ever experienced, sheets, towels, toiletries (L'Occitance!) were of the highly quality and comfort. Staff were outstanding, going out of their way to make sure everything was JUST right. Breakfast, although at an extra price (but included in our room price because when I reserved they were still offering their breakfast free to those who stayed more than 5 nights) was ample, delicious and served in their small beautiful breakfast nook which also led to an outdoor small terrace. When we were there the hotel was full but we never were disturbed by any noises whatsoever. Walking distance to the Pantheon, Luxembourg Gardens and Notre Dame, very well located. Very highly recommended.
OUR B&B IN SARLAT in the DORDOGNE
Here I chose the Les Cordeliers which gets the #1 spot on tripadvisor. I had mixed feelings about this B&B. On the whole, it gets good marks, such as being clean, having SUPER large rooms, in a good spot in the town, and having a good breakfast, albeit also not included and charges of 6 Euros each per day. What I did not appreciate was the proprietor's reaction to several "problems" we had. This is often what "makes or breaks" a place, at least in my opinion. And these issues were not completely well taken care of. Along with that, I believe that there would have been possible better options at better prices elsewhere.
RESTAURANTS
We did not have terrific eating experiences in Paris, but ate like kings in the Dordogne. To be fair, we also did not search out anything special or high-end in Paris, and just made do with whatever small places we came across that looked OK and had decent prices. Our one "splurge" was Les Papilles right across the corner from our hotel, which had come highly recommended by many. Indeed it was lovely, the service was excellent, the food (which is a totally 100% set menu and you cannot change anything at all) was interesting, different and tasty; we enjoyed it.
In Sarlat, we ate at Le Grand Bleu which is a one-star Michelin restaurant and it was fabulous and we highly recommend it. The price was not even exorbitantly expensive. We tried to get reservations for dinner but they were all booked so we "made do" with lunch and ordered from the 33 Euros menu and enjoyed it very very much. We also had a dinner at Bistro L'Octroi which was also very nice and good, not great but good.
To be continued........
May 16th, 2011, 04:34 AM
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TDudette - in Les Cordeliers, we were put in room no. 6 which was on the 2nd floor (of a two floor small 6 room B&B). It was a lovely, clean and large room with two great big windows which could be opened. What it did not have was any WiFi reception at all, although the B&B is advertised as such. The problem was that ONLY this room did not have WiFi and this was a known problem to the proprietor. I made these reservations months in advance and specifically asked about WiFi and so this should have been relayed to me in advance. There WAS WiFi everywhere else in the B&B and we ended up bringing our computer to the entrance hall and using it there, very inconvenient. I also do not think that saying "at least it is free" was an appropriate reply from the owner. We never at any time made our "complaints" in anything but a very polite and quiet manner. The other problem was water not hot enough in the shower and with not enough pressure. Again, the owner tried to fix it but it was not. After 4 nights, we were able to transfer to room no. 2 for our last 2 nights. Too bad we were not there the entire 6 nights. It was lovely, with a bathtub and great WiFi reception.
May 16th, 2011, 09:48 AM
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...............continued
SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS (PARIS)
In Paris we bought a 4-day Museum Pass which we thought was an excellent buy. Aside from giving us unlimited access to most of the major museums and many of the minor ones, it also allowed us to bypass all the lines (that we thought would be many since that is what we remembered from 11 years ago). Well....... nowhere were there any lines to speak of and sometimes none at all. It was very strange but a fact.
We enjoyed the D'Orsay, Louvre, L'Orangerie, as well as the Rodin Museum, and even the smaller Cluny and Delacroix. Going up the Arc de Trimuph was also included but we passed the almost 300 steps since it was the end of the day when we got there and were a bit exhausted already.
We also made good use of a 5 (or was it 6?) day bus and metro ticket. It was nice to be able to hop on to any of these transports whenever we felt like we needed to curtail our walking a bit, of which we did a lot. Paris is a wonderfully walkable city and we were lucky with weather. Except for our first day which was really really cold, the rest were very well suited for walking and hanging around the parks.
We enjoyed the Luxembourg Gardens, as well as the Tuileries, Place des Voges and several other small and beautiful ones on our paths which I do not know the names of.
PERSONAL INTERACTIONS (PARIS)
We were thrilled, surprised and happy that absolutely everyone we met, whether the staff at our hotel, waiters and staff at restaurants, strangers on the street, at bus stops seeing us with maps in our hands and a bit lost, just everyone - were extremely polite, helpful, anxious to show they care, and even had no trouble speaking English, especially since I would always begin with a smile and a great big "Bonjour"! It was such a change from 11 years ago and it made a big difference in our enjoyment of the city.
More on the Dordogne and Sarlat next.....
SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS (PARIS)
In Paris we bought a 4-day Museum Pass which we thought was an excellent buy. Aside from giving us unlimited access to most of the major museums and many of the minor ones, it also allowed us to bypass all the lines (that we thought would be many since that is what we remembered from 11 years ago). Well....... nowhere were there any lines to speak of and sometimes none at all. It was very strange but a fact.
We enjoyed the D'Orsay, Louvre, L'Orangerie, as well as the Rodin Museum, and even the smaller Cluny and Delacroix. Going up the Arc de Trimuph was also included but we passed the almost 300 steps since it was the end of the day when we got there and were a bit exhausted already.
We also made good use of a 5 (or was it 6?) day bus and metro ticket. It was nice to be able to hop on to any of these transports whenever we felt like we needed to curtail our walking a bit, of which we did a lot. Paris is a wonderfully walkable city and we were lucky with weather. Except for our first day which was really really cold, the rest were very well suited for walking and hanging around the parks.
We enjoyed the Luxembourg Gardens, as well as the Tuileries, Place des Voges and several other small and beautiful ones on our paths which I do not know the names of.
PERSONAL INTERACTIONS (PARIS)
We were thrilled, surprised and happy that absolutely everyone we met, whether the staff at our hotel, waiters and staff at restaurants, strangers on the street, at bus stops seeing us with maps in our hands and a bit lost, just everyone - were extremely polite, helpful, anxious to show they care, and even had no trouble speaking English, especially since I would always begin with a smile and a great big "Bonjour"! It was such a change from 11 years ago and it made a big difference in our enjoyment of the city.
More on the Dordogne and Sarlat next.....
May 16th, 2011, 01:17 PM
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I'm also looking forward to the rest of your report. In September we plan to stay at Manoir de Malagorse which is about 45 mins from Sarlat near Souillac- located in the Lot, not Dordogne. I'll report back after we return.
May 16th, 2011, 08:26 PM
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Several things I forgot to mention with regard to Paris :
SPECIAL SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS (PARIS)
We went to a beautiful Mozart concert at Saint Chapelle which was a lovely experience and highly recommended. The concert starts at 20:30 so when you get into the church it is still light but starting to darken (at least in mid-April when we were there). By the time the concert starts it is almost completely dark and the transformation through the marvelous stained glass windows there is exceptional. Tickets are not terribly expensive, I think 20 Euros, and the concert was about and hour and 15 minutes. A different experience.
On Sunday midday we made our way to Rue Moufettard which was also within walking distance from our hotel, where apparently it is a custom, during the market hours which are about till 14:00 I think, to have typical French chansons and dancing in the streets. It was really fun and people were handing out songbooks so that the spectators can join in, both in the communal singing, but also in the dancing. It was great fun and highly recommended.
SPECIAL SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS (PARIS)
We went to a beautiful Mozart concert at Saint Chapelle which was a lovely experience and highly recommended. The concert starts at 20:30 so when you get into the church it is still light but starting to darken (at least in mid-April when we were there). By the time the concert starts it is almost completely dark and the transformation through the marvelous stained glass windows there is exceptional. Tickets are not terribly expensive, I think 20 Euros, and the concert was about and hour and 15 minutes. A different experience.
On Sunday midday we made our way to Rue Moufettard which was also within walking distance from our hotel, where apparently it is a custom, during the market hours which are about till 14:00 I think, to have typical French chansons and dancing in the streets. It was really fun and people were handing out songbooks so that the spectators can join in, both in the communal singing, but also in the dancing. It was great fun and highly recommended.
May 18th, 2011, 01:32 AM
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We have just recently returned from Paris and leave on May 30 for Dordogne and Auvergne, so I, too am looking forward to seeing the rest of your report. Thanks so much for taking the time to write it. (But you have made me feel even more guilty for not yet completing my own Paris report.)
May 18th, 2011, 02:56 AM
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Glad I could be as helpful to others as I have found them to be for me on this board.
RESTAURANTS IN SARLAT
We asked our B&B hostess for some good restaurant recommendations in Sarlat and we enjoyed some of the best food ever during those days!!
1) Le Grand Bleu
We made lunch reservations for a Saturday because all dinner reservations (by the time we got around to calling) were booked and we did not want to miss this starred Michelin restaurant!! So we drove there for lunch (it is right near the train station) and was IT GREAT!! We all ordered from the 33 Euros Menu and they started us off with an amuse bouche of lobster tartare, salmon and cream cheese on blinis, and some other little fried treat. Then came another amuse bouche of cucumber gazacho soup with all sorts of foams and sorbets in it!!
We ordered an appetizer of chicken with lemongrass, szechaun pepper and green apple salad and fennel sorbet. We had a lovely bottle of white whose name I cannot remember now, sorry. Our main dishes were cod cooked with a blowtorch, asparagus risotto and red pepper foam for some of us and a lamb dish cooked at low temperature on confit garlic and potatoes puree, with nettle coulis. It was all superb but I believe I have never had such delicious potatoes puree and I dare not imagine how much butter (or duck fat?) it may have contained (LOL). For desert there was one dish of rice pudding, low temperature pineapple cooking, mandarin and cocoa sorbet, another of spiced strawberry soufflé with vanilla ice cream, and since I requested a no sugar desert, they prepared for me THE most gorgeous plate of all sorts of fruits and made into shapes, etc. that I ever did see. All was immortalized in photos of course!! We had espresso at the end and that also came with a gorgeous plate, on the house, of little homemade cakes, cookies and marshmallows. We were so happy........
We found out that this place is run by a young-ish couple, she being the matre'd and he being the (fabulous) chef. They were sweet and helpful and very accomodating and made this a truly special treat which I shall recommend to anyone !!!
2)L'Bistrot Octroi - another recommendation from our B&B hostess. Easy walking distance from our B&B, really about 3 minutes only and a very nice dinner, including asparagus soup for starter, a codfish and potato dish with salad, etc., a good steak with baked potato, salad, etc. For desert there was floating island and a lovely fruit plate with white cheese.
RESTAURANT IN DOMME
One of the most beautiful, and possibly THE most beautiful of the small towns we visited. High up and with a view that could kill, we had a fabulous confit de canard lunch at Le Belvedere restaurant which from its name, gives away the gorgeous outdoor terrace where we sat and enjoyed the killer view. The food was good, nothing fancy, but it was also worth it for the wonderful service we got from a sweet gal and of course sitting outdoors on that terrace in the beautiful cool sunshine of a gorgeous day.
RESTAURANT IN Les Jardins du Manoir d'Eyrignac
This is a beautiful not-to-be-missed garden (details will be forthcoming in another post) where we ate a light lunch in their restaurant - also outdoors on the terrace and in a beautiful setting with great weather. We ordered something very unusual which was basically a duckmeat "hamburger" (that is what is is actually called) with foie gras and some onion confit. It was delicious, unusual and perfect.
RESTAURANTS IN SARLAT
We asked our B&B hostess for some good restaurant recommendations in Sarlat and we enjoyed some of the best food ever during those days!!
1) Le Grand Bleu
We made lunch reservations for a Saturday because all dinner reservations (by the time we got around to calling) were booked and we did not want to miss this starred Michelin restaurant!! So we drove there for lunch (it is right near the train station) and was IT GREAT!! We all ordered from the 33 Euros Menu and they started us off with an amuse bouche of lobster tartare, salmon and cream cheese on blinis, and some other little fried treat. Then came another amuse bouche of cucumber gazacho soup with all sorts of foams and sorbets in it!!
We ordered an appetizer of chicken with lemongrass, szechaun pepper and green apple salad and fennel sorbet. We had a lovely bottle of white whose name I cannot remember now, sorry. Our main dishes were cod cooked with a blowtorch, asparagus risotto and red pepper foam for some of us and a lamb dish cooked at low temperature on confit garlic and potatoes puree, with nettle coulis. It was all superb but I believe I have never had such delicious potatoes puree and I dare not imagine how much butter (or duck fat?) it may have contained (LOL). For desert there was one dish of rice pudding, low temperature pineapple cooking, mandarin and cocoa sorbet, another of spiced strawberry soufflé with vanilla ice cream, and since I requested a no sugar desert, they prepared for me THE most gorgeous plate of all sorts of fruits and made into shapes, etc. that I ever did see. All was immortalized in photos of course!! We had espresso at the end and that also came with a gorgeous plate, on the house, of little homemade cakes, cookies and marshmallows. We were so happy........
We found out that this place is run by a young-ish couple, she being the matre'd and he being the (fabulous) chef. They were sweet and helpful and very accomodating and made this a truly special treat which I shall recommend to anyone !!!
2)L'Bistrot Octroi - another recommendation from our B&B hostess. Easy walking distance from our B&B, really about 3 minutes only and a very nice dinner, including asparagus soup for starter, a codfish and potato dish with salad, etc., a good steak with baked potato, salad, etc. For desert there was floating island and a lovely fruit plate with white cheese.
RESTAURANT IN DOMME
One of the most beautiful, and possibly THE most beautiful of the small towns we visited. High up and with a view that could kill, we had a fabulous confit de canard lunch at Le Belvedere restaurant which from its name, gives away the gorgeous outdoor terrace where we sat and enjoyed the killer view. The food was good, nothing fancy, but it was also worth it for the wonderful service we got from a sweet gal and of course sitting outdoors on that terrace in the beautiful cool sunshine of a gorgeous day.
RESTAURANT IN Les Jardins du Manoir d'Eyrignac
This is a beautiful not-to-be-missed garden (details will be forthcoming in another post) where we ate a light lunch in their restaurant - also outdoors on the terrace and in a beautiful setting with great weather. We ordered something very unusual which was basically a duckmeat "hamburger" (that is what is is actually called) with foie gras and some onion confit. It was delicious, unusual and perfect.
May 19th, 2011, 04:28 AM
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SHOPPING
I found little in Paris, while in Sarlat, there was plenty. Of special note are two stores right next to each other at the beginning of the pedestrian street right at the beginning of Place de Madeleine where our B&B was :
1) Yves Rocher perfumery - where we found lovely items, both for ourselves and as gifts, very decent prices and a truly lovely and helpful saleslady.
2) a handbag store - can't remember name - with beautiful and inexpensive handbags, which were also the 50% off.
And in addition, the following :
3) of course the Sarlat Saturday market which was beautiful, tasteful, had lovely items and great foodstuffs, of which we were happily handed samples !!
4) Fabulous wines in the supermarket!! At very good prices and with a wonderful selection!!
OUR FAVORITE DORDOGNE SIGHTS AND TOWNS (in no particular order):
Rocamadour - a pilgrimage site built into cliffside, includes medieval village, astoundingly unusual church, etc.
Domme - one of the most beautiful towns, high up with spectacular views and pristine streets
Lasceaux II Caves - prehistoric cave with caveman drawings
St. Leon/Veyzes - beautiful town
La Maison Forte de Reignac - interesting caves
Chateau des Milandes (Josephine Baker's residence)
La Roque Gageac - designated as one of the 10 most beautiful
Les Jardins du Manoir d'Eyrignac - a lovely manicured garden
Chateau de Commarque - our very favorite of the chateaus we visited. It was very usual and there was a true forest that one must walk through in order to get there.
I am happy to answer any questions and/or to elaborate on anything in particular, just let me know.
I found little in Paris, while in Sarlat, there was plenty. Of special note are two stores right next to each other at the beginning of the pedestrian street right at the beginning of Place de Madeleine where our B&B was :
1) Yves Rocher perfumery - where we found lovely items, both for ourselves and as gifts, very decent prices and a truly lovely and helpful saleslady.
2) a handbag store - can't remember name - with beautiful and inexpensive handbags, which were also the 50% off.
And in addition, the following :
3) of course the Sarlat Saturday market which was beautiful, tasteful, had lovely items and great foodstuffs, of which we were happily handed samples !!
4) Fabulous wines in the supermarket!! At very good prices and with a wonderful selection!!
OUR FAVORITE DORDOGNE SIGHTS AND TOWNS (in no particular order):
Rocamadour - a pilgrimage site built into cliffside, includes medieval village, astoundingly unusual church, etc.
Domme - one of the most beautiful towns, high up with spectacular views and pristine streets
Lasceaux II Caves - prehistoric cave with caveman drawings
St. Leon/Veyzes - beautiful town
La Maison Forte de Reignac - interesting caves
Chateau des Milandes (Josephine Baker's residence)
La Roque Gageac - designated as one of the 10 most beautiful
Les Jardins du Manoir d'Eyrignac - a lovely manicured garden
Chateau de Commarque - our very favorite of the chateaus we visited. It was very usual and there was a true forest that one must walk through in order to get there.
I am happy to answer any questions and/or to elaborate on anything in particular, just let me know.
May 20th, 2011, 01:55 PM
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Flame, what a great report. We leave mid June for this area where we will be spending 3 weeks in Lot and Dordogne areas.
We will definitely put those restaurants on our list.
I'm also glad to see that your favorite sights and towns are on our list.
We will definitely put those restaurants on our list.
I'm also glad to see that your favorite sights and towns are on our list.
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